US1965995A - Overcoat, raincoat, and like garment - Google Patents

Overcoat, raincoat, and like garment Download PDF

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Publication number
US1965995A
US1965995A US646061A US64606132A US1965995A US 1965995 A US1965995 A US 1965995A US 646061 A US646061 A US 646061A US 64606132 A US64606132 A US 64606132A US 1965995 A US1965995 A US 1965995A
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United States
Prior art keywords
sleeve
length
piece
garment
edge
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US646061A
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English (en)
Inventor
Tripp Francis Randolph
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication of US1965995A publication Critical patent/US1965995A/en
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Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes

Definitions

  • The' present invention accordingly consists in type first above referred to, the upper portion of provided with al grown-on. portion 'or portions whereby the sleeve is ared outward when the .arm is inthe raised position-the grown-on material automatically forming one or more folds when the arm is -in the lowered position, and is I'characterized in that' these folds. pass closely be-. neath the' armpit of the wearer, being at their.
  • the garment presents the general appearance -of a wellcut raglan coat or the like, very high degree of freedom of movement 'to the '45 wearer.
  • Fig. l is a view of one form of the invention applied toa belted overcoatz Fig. 2 is a side viewof the upp'er s claims. cl. '2 933.
  • FIG. 3 shows the three patterns for a threepiece sleeve made according toV Figs.- 1 and 2, the hatched portion indicating the grown-on portions;
  • Fig. 4 is a side view of the upper portion of' a 60 lmodifled'form of sleeve andattachmentutilizing two pieces forthe sleeve;I
  • Fig. 5 shows; patterns of the two-pieced sleeve Vshown in' Figure 4, the hatched portion indicating the grown-on ⁇ portions;
  • Fig.6 is a view ⁇ showing the pattern of a three-i' piece sleeve made according to the present invention in its relation to a squarel and superpose'd over the raglan sleeve o f the usual type;
  • Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figure 6 showing more 70 particularlythe relative' proportions of the va- .rious parts in a three-piece ⁇ sleeve;
  • Fig. 8 is a view. similar to Figure 7 showing the relative proportions of the various parts in a twopiece sleeve;
  • Fig. 9 l is a view showing the upper portion of the back and forev part of the body of the coatto which the sleeves are secured. f
  • the sleeve 2 comprises three '.pieces', an underside sleeve piece 6 and two' pieces 85'A 'Tand 8 (see Figure 3) forming the top side .sleeve piece, the grownon portion 3 being con-.
  • edge 1 2 of piece 'l is sewn to the edge 13 of piece 6 andthe edge piece 14 of piece 7 15 of piece 8, the edge 16 of-piece 8 be- 100 ing sewn to the edge 1'7 of piece 6, the outer seam thus passing over the shoulderof the coat as will be readily lar form of attachment a' square-shouldered sleeve seam and is more particularly suitable for use with belted coats.
  • the sleeve 2 is formed of two pieces only, the underside sleeve-piece 6 andthe top-side piece 20; the piece 6 being shaped with a grown-on portion 3 shown hatched in Figure 5, and the outer piece 20 being shaped with grown-on portions 21 and 22.
  • the edge k Z in the piece 20 is equal to the length of the line lc m, yand the new edge n o is equal in length to the line n p.
  • Figure 6 is intended more particularly to in- -dicate the method of laying out a three-piece sleeve with reference to a square, a term wellknown in the trade.
  • scale also referred to in the specification is defined as a factor used in cutting a garment and, in the case of an overcoat or raincoat, is obtained by taking the chest measurement in inches over the waistcoat, adding two inches, and dividing the sum so obtained by two. Thus, in a 42 inch chest over the waistcoat, the number 42 is taken, 2 added and the sum divided by two, giving 22.
  • This factor of 22 is the scale for a 42 inch chest measured over the waistcoat, and is the scale used in the specic embodiments of the invention hereinafter described.
  • the two pieces 30 and 31 forming the top side of the old type of raglan sleeve are laid down within the square, one side of the square being constituted by the line passing through the points A and B.
  • the line A. B. is then produced to C, the length B. C. being from about one to oneand-a-half inches to give the hindarrn drop.
  • the width A. D. of the square is equal to onehalf the scale plus about one-sixth or less than one-sixth scale.
  • the grown-on portions forming the sleeve which is the subject of the present invention are mainly external to the square, and as the length of the edge B'39 of the new. pattern sleeve is equal to the length A39 in the old pattern sleeve, the point B' is raised above the point A partly by reason of the greater concavity of the edge vB'39, and partly by reason of the draught being laid down external to the square. Similarly, as the edge D238 is equal in length to the edge D'38 in the old pattern sleeve, the point D2 is raisedy partly as a result of the increased concavity of the edge D238, and
  • the underside sleeve piece 6 is formed with a grown-on portion H. F. J. A' with the portion J completing this ⁇ part of the sleeve, the double dot and dash line indicating the old form.
  • the edge 36 is sewn to the edge 37, the edge 33 is sewn to the edge 40, and the edg'e 32 to the edge 34, the
  • Length A to B 1/6 scale-S/a inches
  • Length 60 Centre line of square
  • Length 70 is centre of arc '72 joining 39 to 50
  • Length 86 to 87:1% inches, Length 88 to 89:11; scale, Length 90 to 91:11, scale-1A; inch, Length 81 to 92 According to arm of wearer, Length 92 to 93:11/8 inches, Length 94 to 95:11/2 inches, Length 96 to 97:1% inches, Length 81 to 98:1/3 scale plus 1 inch, Length 81 to 99:1/8 scale, plus 1/2 inch, Length 99 to 100:51@ inches.
  • I By constructing my improved garment in this way, I provide an arrangement which allows the strained movement in every possible direction, while an elegant and graceful eiect is produced when the garment is in use without any tendency to interfere with the set of the garment.
  • An overcoat, raincoat, or other garment of the raglan type wherein the shoulder, end of the parts constituting each sleeve is provided with a grown-on portion or portions, the extreme lateral ends of which arev external to the square and raised, which results in an increased concavity of the edges constituting the shoulder seams, and wherein the concavityof the curved edge forming the back of the top-side armhole seam, is. at least one twenty-fourth scale greater than the convexity ofwthe curved ⁇ edge ofthe back part of the .1

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
US646061A 1931-12-16 1932-12-07 Overcoat, raincoat, and like garment Expired - Lifetime US1965995A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1965995X 1931-12-16

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US1965995A true US1965995A (en) 1934-07-10

Family

ID=10894812

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US646061A Expired - Lifetime US1965995A (en) 1931-12-16 1932-12-07 Overcoat, raincoat, and like garment

Country Status (2)

Country Link
US (1) US1965995A (fr)
FR (1) FR747529A (fr)

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2426819A (en) * 1945-11-06 1947-09-02 Clyne Joseph Garment and garment construction
US2426818A (en) * 1945-05-23 1947-09-02 Clyne Joseph Garment
US2434997A (en) * 1945-10-08 1948-01-27 Goodall Sanford Inc Coat construction
US2650364A (en) * 1947-08-29 1953-09-01 Flexsleev Inc Underarm sleeve construction
US3231899A (en) * 1962-10-31 1966-02-01 Brewer Garment construction
US3443260A (en) * 1966-12-12 1969-05-13 Clarisse L O Keefe Bed patient's gown
US4507808A (en) * 1982-12-08 1985-04-02 Montalto Antonelle Method of manufacturing clothing
US5410759A (en) * 1993-02-23 1995-05-02 Hari; Todd N. Top garment patterned with sleeves above the head
US5946724A (en) * 1998-04-30 1999-09-07 Acushnet Company Golf jacket
US20110035859A1 (en) * 2008-04-10 2011-02-17 Yutaka Koga Upper Garment

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2426818A (en) * 1945-05-23 1947-09-02 Clyne Joseph Garment
US2434997A (en) * 1945-10-08 1948-01-27 Goodall Sanford Inc Coat construction
US2426819A (en) * 1945-11-06 1947-09-02 Clyne Joseph Garment and garment construction
US2650364A (en) * 1947-08-29 1953-09-01 Flexsleev Inc Underarm sleeve construction
US3231899A (en) * 1962-10-31 1966-02-01 Brewer Garment construction
US3443260A (en) * 1966-12-12 1969-05-13 Clarisse L O Keefe Bed patient's gown
US4507808A (en) * 1982-12-08 1985-04-02 Montalto Antonelle Method of manufacturing clothing
US5410759A (en) * 1993-02-23 1995-05-02 Hari; Todd N. Top garment patterned with sleeves above the head
WO1996033627A1 (fr) * 1994-07-20 1996-10-31 Freichels, Delroy, Gerhard Vetement de dessus a manches comportant les manches au-dessus de la tete
US5946724A (en) * 1998-04-30 1999-09-07 Acushnet Company Golf jacket
US20110035859A1 (en) * 2008-04-10 2011-02-17 Yutaka Koga Upper Garment
US9402426B2 (en) * 2008-04-10 2016-08-02 Asics Corporation Upper garment

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR747529A (fr) 1933-06-19

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