WO2012095786A2 - Composition cosmétique anti-ultraviolet (uv) - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique anti-ultraviolet (uv) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012095786A2
WO2012095786A2 PCT/IB2012/050114 IB2012050114W WO2012095786A2 WO 2012095786 A2 WO2012095786 A2 WO 2012095786A2 IB 2012050114 W IB2012050114 W IB 2012050114W WO 2012095786 A2 WO2012095786 A2 WO 2012095786A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
inorganic
cosmetic composition
composition according
screening agent
esters
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PCT/IB2012/050114
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English (en)
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WO2012095786A3 (fr
Inventor
Florence L'alloret
Didier Candau
Maud WILLIEN
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from FR1150225A external-priority patent/FR2970172A1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1150924A external-priority patent/FR2971152B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of WO2012095786A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012095786A2/fr
Publication of WO2012095786A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012095786A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0283—Matrix particles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of photoprotective compositions.
  • One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing at least composite particles having a size between 0.1 ⁇ and 30 ⁇ comprising a matrix and a screening material.
  • This composition is for topical use and is more particularly intended for the photoprotection of the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
  • UV radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that light rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, cause skin burns and erythema which can harm the development of a natural tan.
  • UV-B radiation should thus be screened out.
  • UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation.
  • UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing of the skin.
  • antisun compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A range and in the UV-B range are generally used.
  • cosmetic products comprising one or more inorganic and/or organic UV screening agents.
  • the cosmetic products intended to be applied to the skin often comprise fine Ti0 2 particles to protect the skin from UV rays.
  • These fine metal oxide particles generally have a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ , preferably between 5x 10 "3 and 0.1 ⁇ , preferably between 10 "2 and 0.1 ⁇ , and preferentially between 1.5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 2 and 5x 10 "2 ⁇ .
  • compositions comprising pigments that are compatible with organic screening agents which do not have the respective drawbacks of pigments (dispersibility, homogeneity of the formulae, whitening) and of organic screening agents. This problem has advantageously been solved with the compositions according to the invention.
  • compositions comprising spherical composites based on a metal oxide and on a hydrophobic polymer.
  • EP 1 388 550 which targets the use of composite particles comprising a core formed of a metal oxide coated with a silicone or fluoro compound and the use thereof as a photoprotective cosmetic composition
  • application WO 98/22539 which describes a sunscreen containing a particle of silicon and/or of another solid compound in which the silicon is in stoichiometric excess, said particle having a mean diameter of less than 120 nm and being covered with a layer of oxide having a thickness ranging from 1 to 300 nm.
  • a first subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing:
  • this composition also comprises one or more organic, preferably water- soluble, UV screening agents.
  • this (these) organic screening agent(s) is/are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is a single- phase composition, i.e. a solution.
  • Said solution is aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or anhydrous, with at least one polar oil and contains:
  • At least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.
  • the composition according to the invention is an anhydrous single-phase composition containing at least one polar oil and comprising:
  • one or more organic UV screening agents in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • At least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.
  • composition has the advantage of having a good dispersion of the fillers, i.e. a homogeneous, smooth and grain-free appearance.
  • the composition according to the invention targets a composition comprising several phases such as, for example, an emulsion chosen from W/O, O/W, W/O/W or 0/W/O emulsions.
  • Said composition contains at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil and comprises:
  • At least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.
  • the composition according to the invention is an emulsion that contains at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil and that comprises:
  • At least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • composition according to the present invention is effective in photoprotection. Moreover, the composition has a homogeneous appearance, in particular on the microscopic scale and it does not generate a white deposit when it is applied to the skin. Moreover, it is highly satisfactory in terms of cosmeticity: it has a non-greasy, non-tacky feel.
  • compositions according to the present invention are photoprotective compositions intended to screen UV radiation; these compositions are also known as anti-sun compositions or sun protection compositions.
  • mean size of the particles is understood to mean the parameter D[4,3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" particle size analyser (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted to size distribution according to Mie theory. The parameter D[4,3] is measured; this is the mean diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For a spherical particle, reference will often be made to the "mean diameter".
  • mean elementary size is understood to mean the size of non-aggregated particles.
  • the particles used according to the present invention also referred to as “composite particles", comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent.
  • the matrix comprises one or more organic and/or inorganic materials.
  • the inorganic UV screening agent is generally chosen from metal oxides.
  • the matrix is essentially constituted of the organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix according to the present invention are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulphate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic materials that can be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, poly- propylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly(butylene)- succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the inorganic UV screening agents that can be used in the composite particle are chosen from metal oxides.
  • these metal oxides are chosen from titanium dioxide Ti0 2 , zinc oxide ZnO and iron oxide FeO.
  • the inorganic UV screening agent is Ti0 2 .
  • These metal oxides may be in the form of particles, having a mean size generally of less than 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the Ti0 2 particles used have a mean size of less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ .
  • These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers having a mean thickness generally of less than 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 45%, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the composite particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical.
  • the composite particles may be hollow, smooth, rough or porous.
  • they are characterized by a mean diameter between 0.1 ⁇ and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.2 ⁇ and 20 ⁇ and more preferably between 0.3 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ , advantageously between 0.5 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ .
  • the term "spherical” is understood to mean that the particle has a sphericity index, i.e. the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.
  • the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agent are included.
  • the composite particles are constituted of a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agent are included.
  • the matrix has inclusions and particles of inorganic UV screening agent are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.
  • the composite particles are spherical and have inclusions in which particles of inorganic UV screening agent are placed.
  • composite particles corresponding to this variant mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles having a mean size between 2 and 7 ⁇ are formed of Ti0 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
  • the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, which matrix is covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV screening agent which may be connected to the matrix with the aid of a binder.
  • the matrix particles are, preferably, of spherical shape.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is generally about ten nanometres.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is advantageously between 10 ⁇ 3 and 0.2 ⁇ , preferably between 10 ⁇ 2 and 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the particles of inorganic UV screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 10 "3 and 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size between 10 ⁇ 2 and 0.1 ⁇ .
  • the matrix may be formed from one or more organic or inorganic materials. It may then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in which the materials can no longer be dissociated, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example constituted of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another different organic or inorganic material.
  • a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in which the materials can no longer be dissociated, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example constituted of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another different organic or inorganic material.
  • the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
  • an additional coating in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
  • the composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.5 and 20 ⁇ and more preferably between 0.3 and 10 ⁇ , advantageously between 0.5 and 10 ⁇ .
  • the UV screening agent used in the composite particle is Ti0 2 or a mixture of Ti0 2 and ZnO.
  • the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or mixture of materials chosen from: - Si0 2 ,
  • composite particles corresponding to this variant mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles having a mean size between 2 and 7 ⁇ are formed of Ti0 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
  • composite particles containing Ti0 2 and ZnO and a PMMA matrix and having the trade name Sun PMMA-T50 sold by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL are examples of composite particles that can be used according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.
  • the HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin meaning is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (Vol. 5), page 249-256.
  • the dispersing surfactants may be chosen from surfactants that are soluble or dispersible in water.
  • the dispersants used according to the invention preferably belong to the following families:
  • glycosylated (1 to 10) or non-glycosylated polyethylene (1 to 50) glycol alkyl ethers;
  • alkyl is understood to mean one or more saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty chains comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Dispersing surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are Steareth 10, Ceteth 10, Laureth 4, Trideceth 6, polyoxyethylenated 4 OE sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 8 OE monostearate, hexaglyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 12 OE distearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE methylglucose distearate, sodium and potassium salts of monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from the company DSM), sodium and potassium salts of alkyl glutamate (Amisoft HS21 from the company Ajinomoto), and polysorbates.
  • Amphisol K from the company DSM
  • Amisoft HS21
  • the hydrophilic dispersing surfactant is chosen from polysorbates, and preferably polysorbate 20.
  • the content of dispersing surfactants of the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition medium is a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • the composition medium is a single-phase medium. This medium may be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Reference is then made to an aqueous solution or aqueous-alcoholic solution.
  • the medium may also be an anhydrous medium, essentially constituted of one or more oil(s).
  • anhydrous medium is understood to mean any support comprising less than 3% by weight of water, or less than 1% by weight of water, or more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or is free of water.
  • the alcohol when it is present, is chosen from lower alcohols and polyols. These latter may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • the alcohols are preferably chosen from C 1 -C4 alcohols. Preferably, it is ethanol.
  • the medium When the medium is an aqueous-alcoholic solution, it generally comprises from 10% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is a multi-phase composition, comprising at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil.
  • the anhydrous phase contains at least one polar oil in a content ranging from 1% to 95%, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polar oil is understood to mean any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter ⁇ characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0.
  • the solubility parameters 5d and ⁇ are defined according to the Hansen classification.
  • these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.
  • ⁇ ⁇ ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 5h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 5 h , ⁇ and 5 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the polar oil will have a surface tension greater than or equal to 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du noisyiy ring.
  • the principle of the measurement is the following (measurement carried out at 25°C, at atmospheric pressure):
  • the weight of the ring is neutralized by a tare.
  • r and R respectively denote the internal and external radii of the ring.
  • the polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil.
  • the non- volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 , and especially from Ci8 to C 3 6, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil,
  • RCOOR' hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl o
  • - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol
  • C12-C22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • non- volatile oils of high molecular weight for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
  • esters such as:
  • esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference,
  • the polar oil is chosen from C 12 -C 15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.
  • the polar oil is C 12 -C 15 alcohol benzoate.
  • the "fatty phase" of the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a wax, an apolar oil or mixtures thereof.
  • wax is understood to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and which has a melting point generally of greater than 35°C.
  • apolar oils and the waxes conventionally used in cosmetic compositions may be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and/or dermato logical active agents.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic UV screening agent.
  • UV screening agents Counted among the organic UV screening agents are in particular the following UV screening agents. 1) Hydrophobic UV-A screening agents
  • Neo Heliopan MA Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.
  • the preferred water-soluble UV-A screening agent is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid.
  • Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (Escalol 507 from ISP).
  • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise; Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name Dipsal by Scher;
  • TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF;
  • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF.
  • Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex.
  • Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150 by BASF;
  • Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
  • hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the composition of the invention:
  • PABA /?-aminobenzoic acid
  • PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
  • Phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck,
  • camphor benzalkonium methosulphate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex.
  • the preferred water-soluble UVB screening agent is phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid.
  • Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay
  • Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid;
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex;
  • Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba-Geigy.
  • the preferred UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents are chosen from:
  • Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulphonic radical, such as
  • UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents when they are present, are present in contents ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.
  • standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers,
  • organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols.
  • the latter can be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel 800 sold by
  • Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers, such as the poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the names Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or else modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.
  • synthetic polymers such as the poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the names Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or else modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • They may be anhydrous and in particular may be in the form of anhydrous oil, cream or gel.
  • They may comprise an aqueous phase and a fatty phase and may be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, 0/W/O or W/O/W) such as a milk, a cream or a cream gel. They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.
  • a simple or complex emulsion O/W, W/O, 0/W/O or W/O/W
  • a milk, a cream or a cream gel such as a milk, a cream or a cream gel.
  • They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.
  • the emulsification processes that may be used are of paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and high-pressure homogenizer (HPH) type.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • the emulsions may also contain stabilizers of other types, for instance fillers, or gelling or thickening polymers.
  • emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of the W/O emulsions
  • examples that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the
  • Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
  • Glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include, for example, polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • emulsifiers examples include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG 100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold
  • APGs alkyl polyglucosides
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A- 92/06778.
  • the composition comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from dimer surfactants known as "gemini surfactants” comprising two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and linked together, via the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group.
  • dimer surfactants known as "gemini surfactants” comprising two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and linked together, via the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group.
  • Such surfactants are especially described in patent applications DE 19943681, DE 19943668, DE 42 27 391 and DE 196 08 117; JP-A- 11-60437; JP-A-8-311003; EP 0 697 244; EP 0 697 245; EP 0 708 079; DE 19622612 and JP-A 10-17593; WO 03/024412; US 5863886; WO 96/25388; WO 96/14926; WO 96/16930; WO 96/25384; WO 97/40124; WO 97/31890; DE 19750246; DE 19750245; DE 19631225; DE 19647060.
  • R 1 and R 3 represent a linear Cs-Ci6 alkyl group
  • R 2 represents a C 2 -Cs alkylene group
  • a preferred gemini surfactant of this family is a sodium dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 sulfate (INCI name) anionic compound of formula:
  • This gemini surfactant may be used, for example, in the following mixtures sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution ® :
  • Ceralution ® H Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate,
  • Ceralution ® F Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate
  • ⁇ Ceralution ® C Aqua, Capric/Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
  • the mixture Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate (Ceralution ® H) will be used more particularly.
  • the concentration of gemini surfactant(s) used in the present invention preferably ranges from 0.001% to 8%, preferably from 0.01% to 4% and in particular from 0.05% to 3% relative to the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
  • isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid polymers and in particular phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1,4- cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
  • phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1,4- cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
  • hydrophobic modified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers such as those described in patent application EP 1 069 142.
  • the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • compositions were produced: The first 4 compositions (Examples A to D) are comparative compositions and the fifth (Example 1) is a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the ingredients are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Phase Ingredients Ex. A Ex. B Ex. C Ex. D Ex. 1 are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions were evaluated according to the following properties:
  • Emulsion preparation method is a method for determining Emulsion preparation method
  • the aqueous phase A and oily phase Bl are prepared by mixing the raw materials, with mechanical stirring, at 80°C; the solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous.
  • the emulsion is prepared by slow introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • the emulsion obtained is cooled, with stirring, to 40°C, then the oily phase B2 is added thereto with gentle stirring, followed by the phases C and D.
  • the emulsion obtained is cooled to room temperature with gentle stirring. It is characterized by drops of between 1 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ in size.
  • the homogeneity of the emulsions is evaluated by microscopic observation of the state of dispersion of the drops of oil and particles of Ti0 2 or of composites of the invention. In vitro protocol for evaluating the screening efficacy
  • the sun protection factor is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133 (1989). The measurements were made using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm 2 .
  • the whitening on the skin is evaluated by application of the formula to a forearm in a porportion of 2 mg/cm 2 and macroscopic observation with the naked eye of the white appearance.
  • the composition of Example 2 also has a satisfactory in vitro SPF, an emulsion having a homogeneous appearance by microscopic observation, and the absence of a white appearance when the composition is applied to the skin.
  • compositions of Examples 3 and 4 were prepared in the following manner:
  • Phase A is prepared by mixing the raw materials and heating to 90-95°C with stirring until the raw materials have fully dissolved. The mixture is cooled to 25°C with stirring. Phase B is then incorporated at 25°C with stirring until completely homogenized.
  • Phase C is prepared by producing a slurry of the filler in the presence of 0.1% of surfactant.
  • the powder thus obtained is dispersed, with stirring, in the composition.
  • compositions of Examples 3 and 4 make it possible to obtain a good dispersion of the fillers. This results in formulae that have a smooth and grain- free appearance.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique contenant : - au moins des particules composites ayant une taille moyenne comprise entre 0,1 µm et 30 µm, comprenant une matrice et un filtre UV inorganique, la teneur en poids de filtre UV inorganique dans une particule étant comprise entre 1 % et 70 %, de préférence entre 2 % et 65 %, et encore mieux entre 3 % et 60 %, et - au moins un agent tensioactif dispersant ayant un rapport hydrophile-lipophile (HLB) supérieur à 6 à 25°C, dans un milieu à une seule phase ou à multiples phases comprenant au moins une phase anhydre contenant au moins une huile polaire.
PCT/IB2012/050114 2011-01-11 2012-01-10 Composition cosmétique anti-ultraviolet (uv) Ceased WO2012095786A2 (fr)

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FR1150225 2011-01-11
FR1150225A FR2970172A1 (fr) 2011-01-11 2011-01-11 Composition cosmetique anti-uv
US201161434126P 2011-01-19 2011-01-19
US61/434,126 2011-01-19
FR1150924A FR2971152B1 (fr) 2011-02-04 2011-02-04 Composition cosmetique anti-uv
FR1150924 2011-02-04
US201161441116P 2011-02-09 2011-02-09
US61/441,116 2011-02-09

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WO2014097972A1 (fr) * 2012-12-18 2014-06-26 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques photoprotectrices
WO2014203913A1 (fr) * 2013-06-18 2014-12-24 L'oreal Composition cosmétique
WO2015003987A1 (fr) * 2013-07-08 2015-01-15 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composition de protection contre les rayonnements uv comportant un filtre uv, un organopolysiloxane fonctionnalisé par un absorbeur de rayons uv et de la silice poreuse et/ou des particules de polyméthacrylate de méthyle
WO2016042027A1 (fr) * 2014-09-19 2016-03-24 L'oreal Composition à base de particules composites sphériques multicouches et d'agent anti-uv
KR101899024B1 (ko) 2016-12-16 2018-11-05 주식회사 코리아나화장품 녹는 질감의 자외선 차단용 화장료 조성물
CN118402981A (zh) * 2024-07-02 2024-07-30 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 防晒组合物、防晒化妆品及其制备方法

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FR2416008A1 (fr) 1978-02-02 1979-08-31 Oreal Lyophilisats de liposomes
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EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
EP0697245A1 (fr) 1994-08-19 1996-02-21 Rhone-Poulenc Inc. Agents tensio-actifs anioniques ayant plusieurs groupes hydrophobes et hydrophiles
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DE19631225A1 (de) 1996-08-02 1998-02-05 Huels Chemische Werke Ag Verwendung von Geminitensiden zur Verminderung der Viskosität von hochkonzentrierten Alkylsulfatpasten und Herstellung der Geminitensid-Alkylsulfat-Mischungen
DE19647060A1 (de) 1996-11-14 1998-05-20 Huels Chemische Werke Ag Verwendung von anionischen Geminitensiden in Formulierungen für Wasch-, Reinigungs- und Körperpflegemittel
WO1998022539A1 (fr) 1996-11-15 1998-05-28 Bayer Aktiengesellschaft Absorbeur de rayons u.v., matrice contenant ledit absorbeur de rayons u.v. procede de filtration de rayons ultraviolets et utilisation d'absorbeurs de lumiere u.v.
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DE19750245A1 (de) 1997-11-13 1999-05-20 Huels Chemische Werke Ag Verwendung von Carbonestergruppen-haltigen Geminitensiden
DE19750246A1 (de) 1997-11-13 1999-05-20 Huels Chemische Werke Ag Verwendung von Carbonamidgruppen-haltigen Geminitensiden
EP0955039A1 (fr) 1998-03-31 1999-11-10 L'oreal Composition topique contenant un ester d'acide ou d'alcool gras ramifié en C24 à C28
EP1069142A1 (fr) 1999-07-15 2001-01-17 Clariant GmbH Polymères solubles dans l'eau et leur utilisation dans des produits cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques
DE19943668A1 (de) 1999-09-13 2001-03-15 Rwe Dea Ag Tensidzusammensetzung enthaltend Geminitenside und Co-Amphiphile, ihre Herstellung und ihre Verwendung
DE19943681A1 (de) 1999-09-13 2001-03-15 Rwe Dea Ag Tensidzusammensetzung enthaltend Geminitenside und deren Verwendung zur Haut- und Haarreinigung
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WO2003024412A2 (fr) 2001-08-28 2003-03-27 Sasol Germany Gmbh Emulsions huile dans eau pulverisables presentant une faible viscosite
EP1388550A1 (fr) 2002-08-08 2004-02-11 Kao Corporation Particule composée du type polymère
US20040175338A1 (en) 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an ester and a pasty compound
WO2004085412A2 (fr) 2003-03-24 2004-10-07 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Derives de triazine symetriques
WO2006083326A2 (fr) 2004-08-07 2006-08-10 Cabot Corporation Fabrication d'une dispersion gazeuse de nanoparticules, et produits contenant des nanoparticules et traitement de ceux-ci
WO2006035000A1 (fr) 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsion photoprotectrice a teneur elevee en pigments filtrants, photoprotecteurs
WO2006034985A1 (fr) 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsion huile dans l'eau contenant des pigments filtrants de protection solaire anti-uv inorganiques et du sulfate d'alkyle
WO2006035007A1 (fr) 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation cosmetique de protection solaire a base de micropigments
WO2006034982A1 (fr) 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Beiersdorf Ag Concentre photoprotecteur a micropigments organiques
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WO2015003987A1 (fr) * 2013-07-08 2015-01-15 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composition de protection contre les rayonnements uv comportant un filtre uv, un organopolysiloxane fonctionnalisé par un absorbeur de rayons uv et de la silice poreuse et/ou des particules de polyméthacrylate de méthyle
CN105358123A (zh) * 2013-07-08 2016-02-24 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 包含uv滤光剂、用uv吸收剂官能化的有机聚硅氧烷、和多孔二氧化硅和/或聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯颗粒的uv屏蔽组合物
CN105358123B (zh) * 2013-07-08 2018-11-13 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 包含uv滤光剂、用uv吸收剂官能化的有机聚硅氧烷、和多孔二氧化硅和/或聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯颗粒的uv屏蔽组合物
WO2016042027A1 (fr) * 2014-09-19 2016-03-24 L'oreal Composition à base de particules composites sphériques multicouches et d'agent anti-uv
FR3026008A1 (fr) * 2014-09-19 2016-03-25 Oreal Composition a base de particules composites spheriques multicouches et d'un filtre uv
US10272021B2 (en) 2014-09-19 2019-04-30 L'oreal Composition based on multilayer spherical composite particles and on a UV-screening agent
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CN118402981A (zh) * 2024-07-02 2024-07-30 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 防晒组合物、防晒化妆品及其制备方法
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