WO2020043729A1 - Procédé de tricotage - Google Patents

Procédé de tricotage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020043729A1
WO2020043729A1 PCT/EP2019/072865 EP2019072865W WO2020043729A1 WO 2020043729 A1 WO2020043729 A1 WO 2020043729A1 EP 2019072865 W EP2019072865 W EP 2019072865W WO 2020043729 A1 WO2020043729 A1 WO 2020043729A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
construction
double
knit
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2019/072865
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Andreas Kunzmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Bekaertdeslee Innovation bvba
Original Assignee
Bekaertdeslee Innovation bvba
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from CN201910196426.1A external-priority patent/CN110872738B/zh
Application filed by Bekaertdeslee Innovation bvba filed Critical Bekaertdeslee Innovation bvba
Priority to PL19756401T priority Critical patent/PL3818204T3/pl
Priority to ES19756401T priority patent/ES2914320T3/es
Priority to CA3110755A priority patent/CA3110755C/fr
Priority to US17/270,921 priority patent/US11441247B2/en
Priority to DK19756401.6T priority patent/DK3818204T3/da
Priority to EP19756401.6A priority patent/EP3818204B1/fr
Publication of WO2020043729A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020043729A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023—Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system

Definitions

  • the invention relates generally to a method for combining multiple knit constructions in a single fabric using a double selection circular knitting machine. It is in particular directed of seamlessly combining in a single fabric an air circulating construction with a double-knit construction. It further provides a fabric obtained using the method of the present invention.
  • a double jersey knit fabric (also called a double jersey knit wear) is a classical knit fabric that is knitted on a circular knitting machine, whereby the circular knitting machine is provided with a cylinder and a dial (that is positioned just above the cylinder) , each provided with needles, the needles of the cylinder typically being provided for knitting the front of the fabric, and the needles of the dial typically being provided for knitting the back of the fabric.
  • lay-in yarns are added in-between the dial and the cylinder in order to give volume to these double jersey knit wears, this for instance when it is used as mattress ticking.
  • the needles of the cylinder and the dial are independently driven by an electronical pattern mechanism, through which every single needle of the cylinder/dial can be selected to either knit, miss or tuck, thereby creating the possibility to produce a design on the front and the back of the fabric.
  • Such double selection circular knitting machines are commercially available from, for example the Monarch Knitting Machinery Corporation (US) , Terrot Gmbh (DE) , Santoni S.p.A (IT), and others.
  • seams and transfer zones can be source of physical discomfort and/or aesthetically unpleasant.
  • the fabrics are typically less strong and for example prune to laddering.
  • such a fabric is limited in the possibilities in design and doesn't allow an integrated border zone in case of mattress ticking.
  • Examples of such prior manufacturing methods can for example be found in D1 (US2017/211214) disclosing a weft knitted fabric comprising fabrics (310, 320) making up the outer layers and the presence of a lay-in or filler yarn (110) but fails to provide a further connection yarns and the filler yarn is always floating between the layers. With such construction the possibility of seamless joining an air circulating construction with a double-knit construction by grouping of the lay-in or filler yarn in the air circulating construction through this additional connection yarn is not possible.
  • FIG. 1 a part of a row of a knitting pattern of an exemplary embodiment of a knit fabric according to the invention that is knitted on a double selection circular knitting machine, and wherein the knit fabric is build up out of 3 yarns.
  • FIG. 2 Detailed picture of the top view of a fabric made according to the knitting pattern of Figure 1. On the left hand side this fabric shows a voluminous double knit - the Volume Area (V) , which seamlessly turns into the air ventilation zone - the Hole Area (H) .
  • V Volume Area
  • H Hole Area
  • FIG. 3 another example of a fabric made using the method of the invention showing air ventilation zones (areas with the hole structure) and a 'voluminous' double knit pattern.
  • FIG. 4 Breathability comparison of an air circulating construction (Ventilation area) and a double knit construction (Blister area) present in a fabric according to the invention, based on ISO test ISO-9237 (1995) at 20°C, a relative humidity of 65%, a gauge surface of 20 cm 2 and with an underpressure of lmbar. Results are expressed in 1/ (m 2 .s) wherein a higher value represents a better breathability .
  • a circle downwards (2) is a stitch, typically on the cylinder, while a circle upwards (3) is a stitch, typically on the dial. It is also possible to have tucks (4) instead of stitches represented as a downward V in the line representing the yarns. In the areas where the lines shown no tucks or stitches the yarn is floating between the outer layers, i.e. between the front and the back layer of the fabric.
  • a blister fabric also called a single jersey fabric
  • FIG. 1 A part of the rows of a knitting pattern of an exemplary embodiment of knit fabric (1) according to the invention is shown in FIG. 1.
  • this fabric a double-knit construction is combined with an air circulating construction knitted on double selection circular knitting machine, and making use of 4 yarns (5, 6, 7 and 8) .
  • the needle pattern (A) of the first yarn (5) is set by means of a first selection of needles, in the shown example on the Cylinder of the machine, and making up the first outer face, in the shown example the back, of the fabric and creating a blister fabric throughout the fabric, i.e. both in the double knit construction and the air circulating construction;
  • the needle pattern (B) of the second yarn (6) is set by means of a second selection of needles, in the shown example on the dial of the machine, and making up the second outer face, in the shown example the front, of the fabric and creating a blister fabric in the double knit construction with tuck connections in the air circulating construction;
  • connection or tuck yarn is controlled by a third selection of needles (C) present on both the cylinder and the dial of the machine, thus connecting the outer layers of the fabric by means of tucks in the air circulating area whilst mainly floating or only being connected to one of the outer layers, in the example to the back, in the double knit construction;
  • the fourth yarn (8) (not shown) is a fill-in or inlay yarn introduced in between the two outer layers of the fabric, both in the double knit construction as in the air circulating construction.
  • the needle pattern for each of said yarns is controlled by an independent pattern controlling mechanism, represented as systems A - C in figure 1.
  • any art known pattern controlling system can be used within the context of the present invention in as far said system is capable of controlling both the needles of the cylinder (C) as well as the needles of the dial (D) .
  • Characterizing for the method according to the invention and as mentioned above, is the introduction of the fill-in or inlay yarn across the fabric, i.e. in both the double knit construction as well as in the air circulating construction. Normally in this kind of air circulating constructions a fill-in or inlay yarn will be absent, making its combined manufacture in a single fabric difficult to achieve. In the method of the present invention this problem is resolved by means of the connection or tuck yarn, grouping by means of the pattern of tucks the fill-in yarn in the air circulating fabric and thus controlling the desired breathability of this construction. As shown in Figure 2 the pattern of the tuck yarn can group the fill- in yarn creating the visible 'ventilation' holes, but in other zones the tuck yarn will connect the outer layers and group the inlay yarn without creating such a high air ventilation area.
  • the first selection of needles is set on the dial of the machine and creates the front of the fabric, but within the context of the invention, a first selection of needles could equally be set on the cylinder, thus creating the back of the fabric.
  • the second selection of needles is set on the cylinder and creates the back of the fabric, but within the context of this invention, such second selection of needles could equally be set on the dial, thus creating the front of the fabric.
  • the selection of the needles for each of the yarns is set by the pattern of tuck/miss/knit and/or tuck/miss or knit/miss combinations for the needles. Being in the possibility of controlling the pattern of the needles, a seamless pattern of the different knit constructions, can be created throughout the fabric, and at either side.
  • the selection of the needles for each of the yarns in making a knit, tuck or miss is set by the design one would like to achieve, wherein the needle pattern of the dial can also be created on the cylinder, and vice versa.
  • said tuck yarn not only connecting outer layers of the fabric but equally controlling the positioning and/or grouping of the fill-in yarn(s), enables to create a seamless inlay design across the fabric, for example for decorative purposes (e.g. fabric integrated embossed branding) , or to create zones where for example extra support or extra ventilation may be required.
  • the method is further characterized in that the positioning and/or grouping, i.e. in that the design of the fill-in or inlay yarn(s) is controlled by the design, i.e. the selection of needles of the tuck or connection yarn.
  • the inlay or fill-in yarn is lying loose in double-knit construction and grouped by the design of the tuck or connection yarn in the air circulating construction.
  • the tuck or connection yarn can be floating between the layers or is being connected to one or both of the outer layers.
  • the tuck or connection yarn can be floating between the layers or is being connected to only one of the outer layers, preferably to the back of the fabric.
  • the tuck or connection yarn is visually hidden or at least obscured by the inlay or fill- in yarn.
  • the present invention provides a method to combine on a double selection circular knitting machine in a single fabric having a first and a second outer layer, an air circulating construction which connect the outer layers combined with a double-knit construction, said method comprising; a first selection of needles for knitting the first outer layer of the fabric; a second selection of needles for knitting the second outer layer of the fabric; a third selection of needles to introduce one or more connection yarn(s) into the fabric and adding a lay-in or filler yarn in between the two outer layers of the fabric, said method being characterized in that the connection yarn(s) is / are connecting the outer layers in the air circulating construction and floating and/or knitted to only one of the outer layers in the double-knit construction; and in that the lay-in yarn is lying loose between the outer layers in the double-knit construction and grouped by tuck or tuck
  • Figures 2 and 3 provides examples of fabrics that can be achieved using the method of the invention and nicely shows the shine through of the coloured connection yarn in the air ventilation area (V) .
  • the holes in this ventilation area are defined by the designer, i.e. by the tucks in the second selection of needles and by the tucks in the selection of needles for the tuck or connection yarn.
  • this ventilation area eventual inlay yarns are bound together through the tucks of the connection yarn, such that no filling yarns lay inside the 'ventilation' holes, which improves ventilation of the fabric. Whilst in the white double-knit construction the area is filed with filling yarn and gives a voluminous feel - the voluminous area (V) .
  • the inlay yarn can go from 150DEN to 2400DEN.
  • the back of the fabric can be an FR yarn, in this example comprising a stretch yarn, i.e. a PESDOR stretch yarn to provide extra loft and stretch.
  • the tuck yarn(s) are connecting the outer layers by means of tuck/miss combinations in the air circulating construction.
  • connection yarn is grouping the fill-in or inlay yarn by means of tuck combinations in the air circulating construction; preferably such that no filling yarns lay inside the 'ventilation' holes.
  • the tuck yarn can connect both layers and group the filling yarn without creating the aforementioned air circulating zone, or it is floating between the layers or only connected to the back to create a voluminous double knit.
  • a method according to the invention is particularly useful in the manufacture of a knitted mattress ticking, with certain advantages for such product in providing; - no sewing or connection zones typically creating discomfort to the user and accordingly with a smoother touch;
  • This method according to the invention is particularly suitable for knitting double jersey mattress ticking, but equally useful in the manufacture of upholstery or garments such as shoe ware, sportswear or other garments.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne, de manière générale, un procédé destiné à combiner plusieurs constructions de tricot dans un seul tissu à l'aide d'une machine à tricoter circulaire à double sélection. L'invention concerne en particulier un procédé consistant à combiner sans couture, dans un seul tissu, une construction à circulation d'air avec une construction de tricot double. L'invention concerne en outre un tissu obtenu à l'aide du procédé de la présente invention.
PCT/EP2019/072865 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Procédé de tricotage Ceased WO2020043729A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PL19756401T PL3818204T3 (pl) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Sposób dziania
ES19756401T ES2914320T3 (es) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Método de tejido de punto
CA3110755A CA3110755C (fr) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Procede de tricotage
US17/270,921 US11441247B2 (en) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Knitting method
DK19756401.6T DK3818204T3 (da) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Strikkefremgangsmåde
EP19756401.6A EP3818204B1 (fr) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Procédé de tricotage

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP18192091 2018-08-31
EP18192091.9 2018-08-31
CN201910196426.1A CN110872738B (zh) 2018-08-31 2019-03-15 针织方法
CN201910196426.1 2019-03-15

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020043729A1 true WO2020043729A1 (fr) 2020-03-05

Family

ID=67704536

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2019/072865 Ceased WO2020043729A1 (fr) 2018-08-31 2019-08-27 Procédé de tricotage

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2020043729A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2024512176A (ja) * 2021-04-11 2024-03-19 リア・コーポレーション 高通気性、弾力性、支持性を有する縦糸編みスペーサーメッシュファブリック

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS52108377U (fr) * 1976-02-07 1977-08-17
EP3070192A1 (fr) * 2015-03-03 2016-09-21 Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG Tissu matelassé et air permeable
US20170130376A1 (en) 2015-11-09 2017-05-11 Monarch Knitting Machinery (U.K.) Ltd. Woven Fabric-Like Jacquard Fabric for Mattress Ticking and Method for Knitting the Same
US20170211214A1 (en) 2016-01-22 2017-07-27 Aknit International Ltd. Stereoscopic weft knitted fabric for vamp
DE102016005593A1 (de) * 2016-05-10 2017-11-16 Ulmer Strickdesign GmbH Formmaschenware mit 3D-Oberflächenstruktur

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS52108377U (fr) * 1976-02-07 1977-08-17
EP3070192A1 (fr) * 2015-03-03 2016-09-21 Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG Tissu matelassé et air permeable
US20170130376A1 (en) 2015-11-09 2017-05-11 Monarch Knitting Machinery (U.K.) Ltd. Woven Fabric-Like Jacquard Fabric for Mattress Ticking and Method for Knitting the Same
US20170211214A1 (en) 2016-01-22 2017-07-27 Aknit International Ltd. Stereoscopic weft knitted fabric for vamp
DE102016005593A1 (de) * 2016-05-10 2017-11-16 Ulmer Strickdesign GmbH Formmaschenware mit 3D-Oberflächenstruktur

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2024512176A (ja) * 2021-04-11 2024-03-19 リア・コーポレーション 高通気性、弾力性、支持性を有する縦糸編みスペーサーメッシュファブリック
JP7724291B2 (ja) 2021-04-11 2025-08-15 リア・コーポレーション 高通気性、弾力性、支持性を有する縦糸編みスペーサーメッシュファブリック

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