WO2021069158A1 - Écran solaire contenant un polymère filmogène naturel - Google Patents

Écran solaire contenant un polymère filmogène naturel Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021069158A1
WO2021069158A1 PCT/EP2020/074887 EP2020074887W WO2021069158A1 WO 2021069158 A1 WO2021069158 A1 WO 2021069158A1 EP 2020074887 W EP2020074887 W EP 2020074887W WO 2021069158 A1 WO2021069158 A1 WO 2021069158A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
preparation
glucomannan
inci
cosmetic
ethylhexyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2020/074887
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Shimoda Toshihiko
Alexis Goulet-Hanssens
Nathalie Hepers
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of WO2021069158A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021069158A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic sun protection preparation containing one or more UV filters and glucomannan, the preparation being free from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and acrylate copolymers.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of glucomannan as a film former for increasing the water resistance in cosmetic sunscreens.
  • UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • sunscreens are used in conjunction with water activities. For this reason it is necessary that the sunscreens have a certain water resistance so that the sunscreen caused by the UV filters does not come into contact with l Water is lost. In order to increase the water resistance of the sunscreen and thus prevent the UV filter from rinsing off the skin, it is then necessary to add polymers such as VP / hexadecene copolymer and / or acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer to the sunscreen, which increase the water resistance of the preparation.
  • polymers such as VP / hexadecene copolymer and / or acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer
  • a cosmetic sunscreen comprising a) one or more UV filters and b) glucomannan, the preparation being free from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and acrylate copolymers.
  • the object is also surprisingly achieved by the use of glucomannan to increase the water resistance in cosmetic sunscreens which are free from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and acrylate copolymers.
  • Glucomannan is a predominantly straight-chain polymer with a low degree of branching. It is formed from ß- (1 -> 4) linked D-mannose and D-glucose in a ratio of 1.6: 1. The degree of branching is approx. 8% due to ⁇ - (1-> 6) -glucosyl compounds.
  • Glucomannan is a polysaccharide that is considered a fiber. It is a hemicellulosic component in the cell walls of some plant species. Glucomannan is a food additive that is used in foods as an emulsifier and thickener In the context of the present disclosure, the formulations “according to the invention”, “preparation according to the invention” etc. always relate to the preparations and uses according to the invention, ie also to preparations in which the uses according to the invention are realized.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), (F? S) -2-ethylhexyl (2E ) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) prop-2-enoate (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene).
  • the glucomannan has an average molecular weight of 800 to 1200 kDa.
  • the glucomannan has a maximum in the temperature range of 195-202 ° C. in the melting curve recorded by means of DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry).
  • the embodiments advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the glucomannan begins to melt in the temperature range of 170-180 ° C. in the melting curve recorded by means of DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry).
  • the melting curves are measured at 2 to 3 points with the aid of a differential scanning calorimeter (Hitachi High-Tech Science Corporation type DSC 7000X).
  • a quantity of 10 mg is placed in a sealable sample pan (size 20 ml).
  • the heating rate is 10 ° C per minute.
  • the glucomannan is contained in the preparation in an amount of 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the glucomannan according to the invention can be obtained, for example, under the trade name “Propol RS-C” from Nagase in Japan.
  • the preparation contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), hexyl 2- [4 - (Diethylamino) -2- hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, 2,4,6-Tris [anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 , -hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5- triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), 2,4-bis ⁇ [4- (2- ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl
  • the cosmetic sunscreen agent according to the invention can advantageously be in the form of an alcoholic solution, a dispersion or an emulsion. It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion).
  • the preparation contains one or more emulsifiers which are selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate + glyceryl stearate, cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearyl phosphate.
  • one or more emulsifiers which are selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate + glyceryl stearate, cetearyl sulfosuccinate
  • the preparation contains one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds ethylhexylglycerol, polyglyceryl-2-caprate, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2- Pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-decanediol.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are further characterized in that the preparation is free from propyl paraben and butyl paraben, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, glycyrrhitic acid, polidocanol, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcone A contains.
  • the preparation according to the invention also advantageously contains glycerol and / or ethanol.
  • the use concentration advantageous according to the invention for glycerol is 0.01 to 10% by weight.
  • the use concentration advantageous according to the invention for ethanol is likewise 0.01 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the oil phase of the preparation according to the invention can contain oils, fats or waxes, for example polar oils from the group of compounds lecithin or compounds such as cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia oil etc .
  • polar oils from the group of compounds lecithin or compounds such as cocoglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, Castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia oil etc .
  • phenethyl benzoate 2-phenyl ethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, octyl isopropyl isopropyl alcoholate, dibutyl isopropyl isopropyl alcoholate, dibutyl isopropyl isopropyl alcoholate, octyl isopropyl isopropyl alcoholate, octyl iso-propyl iso-nate, octyl isopropyl isopropyl alcoholate Isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isopropyl
  • Tri-decyl stearate, tri-decyl trimellitate Tri-decyl stearate, tri-decyl trimellitate.
  • B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates; B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
  • B dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
  • oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C12 13-alkyl lactate, triostearate 13-alkyl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention contains or consists entirely of Ci2-is-alkyl benzoate.
  • Oil components are also z.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13-16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13-16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone.
  • the use of the glucomannan according to the invention in hair conditioners and shampoos is also in accordance with the invention.
  • the glucomannan according to the invention is preferably used according to the invention as a film former in hair conditioners and shampoos, which produces a film on the hair which, according to the invention, particularly preferably makes care substances last longer on the hair, in the sense of long-term care, wash-resistant care, etc ..
  • the water resistance was determined using the contact angle method:
  • 0.1% solutions in an amount of 0.5 g were applied to a glass plate (microscope slide) and dried at 60 ° C. for 1 hour. Then 2 ml of distilled water were dropped onto the treated glass plates and the contact angle was determined (measurement before immersion). The treated glass plates were then immersed in a water bath at constant temperature (30 ° C.) for 30 minutes and then again dried at 60 ° C. for 1 hour. The contact angle was then determined again.
  • the contact angle is measured at 5 to 7 measuring points on the treated glass plate with the aid of a contact angle meter (Kyowa type DM-501 YE) at 22 ° C. and 60% humidity.
  • the static contact angle was measured using the Q / 2 method.
  • a high angle means high water resistance.
  • the melting point / melting curve was measured with the aid of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) (Hitachi High-Tech Science Corporation type DSC 7000X).
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • a quantity of 10 mg of material was placed in a sample pan to be sealed (size: 20 ml) and then heated in the DSC measuring device at a heating rate of 10 ° C. per minute.
  • the viscosity was determined after a measuring time of 30 seconds using the Rheomat R 123 device, spindle (measuring body 1, item no. 200 0191).

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un écran solaire cosmétique contenant a) un ou plusieurs filtres UV et b) du glucomannane, la préparation étant exempte de copolymères de vinylpyrrolidone et de copolymères d'acrylate.
PCT/EP2020/074887 2019-10-09 2020-09-07 Écran solaire contenant un polymère filmogène naturel Ceased WO2021069158A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019215421.2A DE102019215421A1 (de) 2019-10-09 2019-10-09 Sonnenschutzmittel mit einem natürlichen, filmbildenen Polymer
DE102019215421.2 2019-10-09

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021069158A1 true WO2021069158A1 (fr) 2021-04-15

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PCT/EP2020/074887 Ceased WO2021069158A1 (fr) 2019-10-09 2020-09-07 Écran solaire contenant un polymère filmogène naturel

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DE (1) DE102019215421A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2021069158A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102019219068A1 (de) * 2019-12-06 2021-06-10 Beiersdorf Ag Wasserfestes kosmetisches Sonnenschutzmittel
DE102020201799A1 (de) 2020-02-13 2021-08-19 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Polyacrylat-freie kosmetische Zubereitung
DE102021204835A1 (de) * 2021-05-12 2022-11-17 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Haar-kosmetische Zubereitung zur Konditionierung der Haare I

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AU2009222500A1 (en) * 2009-10-01 2011-04-21 Manoj Jain A green emulsifying system for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical emulsion composition
CN104519857A (zh) * 2012-05-14 2015-04-15 强生消费者公司 光彩组合物和使用方法
WO2016096344A1 (fr) * 2014-12-15 2016-06-23 Unilever Plc Compositions pour fournir une protection d'écran solaire améliorée
CN110051617A (zh) * 2019-05-14 2019-07-26 连云港诗碧曼生物科技有限公司 一种高防晒指数的防晒乳及其制备方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AU2009222500A1 (en) * 2009-10-01 2011-04-21 Manoj Jain A green emulsifying system for cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical emulsion composition
CN104519857A (zh) * 2012-05-14 2015-04-15 强生消费者公司 光彩组合物和使用方法
WO2016096344A1 (fr) * 2014-12-15 2016-06-23 Unilever Plc Compositions pour fournir une protection d'écran solaire améliorée
CN110051617A (zh) * 2019-05-14 2019-07-26 连云港诗碧曼生物科技有限公司 一种高防晒指数的防晒乳及其制备方法

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