WO2024242539A1 - Lip cosmetic composition having soft feeling of use and excellent wrinkle-concealing effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a stick-type lip cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition of the present invention has an improved melting sensation and thus an improved feeling of use, maintains formulation stability and thus exhibits excellent formability into a stick formulation, and has an improved blurry effect.

Description

Cosmetic composition for lips with excellent soft feel and wrinkle concealing effect

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for lips.

In general lip products such as lipstick, the cosmetic effect that makes the lips look soft and natural is called the blurry effect. In the past, in lip products with a liquid formulation rather than a stick formulation, 60 to 80% of elastomer gel was added to increase this blurry effect. However, when more than 40% of elastomer gel was added to an oil-dispersed stick formulation, the viscosity of the formulation increased excessively, making the surface of the stick uneven after filling, making it difficult to mold, and problems with formulation stability occurred such as the stick breaking.

Various methods have been attempted to improve this, but the same problem still occurs when a high content of elastomer gel is applied to a stick formulation, so the content of the elastomer gel must inevitably be limited. When the content of the elastomer gel is limited in this way, sufficient blurring effect and melting sensation are not secured, so there is a problem that the marketability of the stick formulation is particularly poor, even for the same lip product.

Accordingly, there is a need for a lipstick product that has a sufficient content of elastomer gel, which is difficult to apply to existing stick-type lip products, to exhibit a blurry effect and a melting sensation, while maintaining stability in shape when formed into a stick.

One aspect provides a stick-type lip cosmetic composition comprising an elastomer gel and a gelling agent.

One aspect is to provide a stick-type lip cosmetic composition comprising an elastomer gel and a gelling agent.

The term "stick type" in this specification means a solid formulation such as a stick type or a balm type, and may be distinguished from a liquid type or a gel type.

The term "elastomer gel" used herein includes silicone elastomer gel and wax, which can improve the melting sensation of a stick formulation in a cosmetic composition, provide a thick sliding sensation, and allow colors to spread smoothly to provide an even and smooth color gradation effect or a blurring effect.

In one embodiment, the gradient effect or blurry effect was confirmed through the result (Gr level) that quantifies the gradient effect according to the distance. Specifically, the method for measuring the Gr level (Gradation Level) is designed to measure the degree of color gradation that spreads smoothly and evenly according to the distance within artificial leather (circle, diameter 18 mm, 25 mm, 40 mm) of a size similar to lips, and 15 ㎕ of each composition was applied to the artificial leather, rubbed evenly 30 times, dried for 10 minutes, and then the L-Value value was measured to confirm the color saturation. The L-Value value versus the distance was obtained to objectify and compare the blurry effect as a gradient slope value.

The above silicone elastomer gel refers to a thermoplastic polymer elastic material having viscoelasticity composed of a silicone component (including a compound having a -Si-O-Si- bond), and may be manufactured in an oil dispersion formulation. The silicone elastomer gel may include silicone oil and a silicone crosspolymer, and specifically, may include dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, PEG-3 dimethicone, polysilicone-11, dimethicone crosspolymer, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone copolyol, or mixtures thereof, or copolymers thereof.

More specifically, the silicone oil is dimethicone, and the silicone crosspolymer can be dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer, and even more specifically, the silicone crosspolymer can be C13-15 Alkane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. In addition, the silicone elastomer gel can be used commercially or can be easily obtained according to a manufacturing method known in the art.

The elastomer gel may be included in an amount of 40 to 60 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. In addition, the silicone crosspolymer may be included in an amount of 5 to 10 parts by weight, 5 to 12 parts by weight, 5 to 15 parts by weight, 7 to 10 parts by weight, 7 to 12 parts by weight, or 10 to 12 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. If the silicone crosspolymer is included in excess of the above range, the formability may be poor, making it difficult to form a complete stick shape, thereby reducing the stability of the formulation, and if it is included in an amount less than the above range, the desired blurring effect may be reduced.

The term "gelling agent" used herein refers to a substance that coagulates a dairy component to form a gel, and specifically, may be an oil gelling agent, and more specifically, may be stearoyl inulin. The stearoyl inulin is produced by a condensation reaction of inulin, a storage polysaccharide of a polymer in which fructose is linked by a β-2,1- bond, and stearic acid chloride, and has excellent gelling ability for silicone oil and can enhance emulsification stability by increasing the viscosity of the silicone oil phase.

The gelling agent may be included in an amount of less than 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, and if included in excess of the above range, the stability of the cosmetic composition formulation may be reduced, and too much may be applied when applied to the lips, thereby reducing the ease of application and feel of the makeup.

In this specification, “wax” may be at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon wax, synthetic wax, vegetable wax, and microcrystalline wax, and may be included in an amount of 8 to 12 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention was prepared by including 33.8 parts by weight of dimethicone as the silicone oil, 10 parts by weight of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as the silicone crosspolymer, 3.8 parts by weight of synthetic wax as the wax, 2.5 parts by weight of rice bran wax (Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax) as the vegetable wax, and 1.8 parts by weight of microcrystalline wax.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may additionally contain powder and pigment. The powder may be contained in an amount of 8 to 12 parts by weight and the pigment may be contained in an amount of 1 to 5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Specifically, in one embodiment, the components corresponding to wax and oil among the components listed in Table 1 below were weighed according to their respective contents, and then melt-mixed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 85 to 90°C. Thereafter, elastomer gel, powder, and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melt-mixed state, and uniformly dispersed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 80 to 85°C, thereby preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by improved usability, maintained formulation stability, and enhanced blurry effect. In one embodiment, it was confirmed that the stick-type lip cosmetic composition of the present invention has high melting feeling, excellent formability after filling, and high blurry effect.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for the lips, and may be a lip balm, lip gloss, lip crayon, lip pencil or lipstick formulation, and specifically, may be a lipstick formulation. In addition, the cosmetic composition may further include a functional additive and an ingredient included in a general cosmetic composition, for example, the functional additive may be a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble vitamin, a high molecular peptide, a high molecular polysaccharide, a sphingolipid or a seaweed extract, and the ingredient included in the general cosmetic composition may be a fat component, a moisturizer, an emollient, a surfactant, an organic powder, an ultraviolet absorber, a preservative, a bactericide, an antioxidant, a plant extract, a pH adjuster, alcohol, a fragrance, a blood circulation promoter, a cooling agent or an antiperspirant, but is not particularly limited thereto.

The lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by improved melting sensation, thus improving the feeling of use, maintaining formulation stability, thus providing excellent formability in a stick formulation, and improving the blurry effect.

Figure 1 is an image of the lips before and after applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to the lips, showing the effect of alleviating the prominence of lip wrinkles, thereby enabling the expression of lips with less curvature and softness.

FIG. 2 shows photographs of the gradient effect (blurred makeup effect) on artificial skin for each of cosmetic compositions (Example and Comparative Example 1) containing C13-15 Alkane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Stearoyl Inulin.

Figure 3 shows the results of numerically evaluating the gradient effect according to distance in terms of Gr Level (gradation level) for each of the cosmetic compositions (Examples, Comparative Examples 1, 2, 5, and 6) containing C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin.

Figure 4 shows the result of molding the composition of Comparative Example 2 into a pouring type, which shows an uneven surface when filling the formulation due to excessively high viscosity.

Figure 5 shows the result of molding the composition of Comparative Example 5 into a pouring type, which shows that the viscosity is too high, resulting in poor moldability after filling, making it difficult to form a complete stick shape.

The present invention will be described in more detail through the following examples. However, these examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Experimental Example 1: Preparation of a Cosmetic Composition Containing C13-15 Alkane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Stearoyl Inulin and Confirmation of Blurring Effect

In order to manufacture a stick-type cosmetic composition containing a high content of elastomer gel, each cosmetic composition was manufactured with a composition as shown in Table 1 below (unit: weight %).

Specifically, among the ingredients listed in Table 1 below, the raw materials corresponding to waxes (synthetic wax, rice bran wax, microcrystalline wax) and oils (isododecane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, diglyceryl sebacate/isopalmitate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone/IPDI copolymer ethyl carbamate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, isohexadecane caprylic/capric triglyceride, methicone, isostearyl alcohol, propylene carbonate, and trideceth-7) were weighed into a beaker according to each content, and then the mixture was stirred at 2,500 rpm using a homogenizer while maintaining the temperature at 85 to 90°C. Melt and mix for 20 minutes. Then, silicone crosspolymer, gelling agent (Stearoyl Inulin), powder phase and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melted mixture state, and uniformly dispersed using a homogeneous mixer at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 80 to 85°C.

Afterwards, bubbles in each composition were removed, impurities were filtered out, and the resulting composition was melted at 80°C in a hot pouring type stick container, filled, and cooled to produce a stick-type cosmetic composition. The results of the blurring effect test for each cosmetic composition are shown in Figs. 2 and 3.

[Table 1]

As a result, as confirmed in FIGS. 2 and 3, it was confirmed that the composition of the example containing 10.0% of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 0.1% of stearoyl inulin exhibited an L value more than twice that of Comparative Example 1 that did not contain these components and a high blurring effect.

Experimental Example 2: Confirmation of synergistic effect by combination of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin

In order to compare the synergistic effect of the combination of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin with the combination of other similarly functioning ingredients, stick-type cosmetic compositions having the same compositions as Comparative Examples 2, 5, and 6 in Table 1 were prepared.

Specifically, Comparative Example 2 used an elastomer gel containing 7.0% dimethicone, 2.25% dimethicone crosspolymer, and 0.75% diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, which are similar in terms of blurring effect, instead of 10.0% of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer among the components described in Table 1, and 0.1% of dextrin palmitate was used as a gelling agent. Comparative Example 5 used 0.1% of dextrin palmitate instead of stearoyl inulin among the ingredients listed in Table 1, and Comparative Example 6 used an elastomer gel further containing 7.0% of dimethicone, 2.25% of dimethicone crosspolymer, and 0.75% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, which have similar blurring effects, instead of 10.0% of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer among the ingredients listed in Table 1.

The raw materials corresponding to the wax and oil parts were weighed in a beaker according to each content, and then melt-mixed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 85 to 90°C. Thereafter, each silicone crosspolymer, gelling agent, powder phase, and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melt-mixed state, and uniformly dispersed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 80 to 85°C. Thereafter, air bubbles in the manufactured composition were removed, impurities were filtered, and the composition was melted at 80°C in a hot pouring type stick container, filled, and cooled to manufacture a stick-type cosmetic composition. The results of the blurring effect test for each cosmetic composition are shown in Fig. 3.

As a result, when a stick-type cosmetic composition was manufactured with the composition of Comparative Example 2, the viscosity was too high, resulting in poor formability after filling, and when filled in the hot pouring type, the post-heating process for evenly treating the surface was not performed, so a complete stick shape could not be formed (Fig. 4). In addition, as confirmed in the blurriness test results of Fig. 3, in the case of Comparative Example 2, the Gr level was 0.15, showing a blurriness effect of about half that of the Example, confirming that the Example of the present invention was more effective.

When a stick-type cosmetic composition was manufactured with the composition of Comparative Example 5, the Gr level was 0.25, showing a slightly lower blurring effect than the examples, confirming that the C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer played a major role in the blurring effect rather than the type of gelling agent. In addition to the functional aspect, in terms of stability, the inclusion of dextrin palmitate resulted in an excessively high viscosity similar to Comparative Example 2, which resulted in poor formability after filling, making it difficult to form a complete stick shape, and thus poor formulation stability, making commercialization difficult (Fig. 5).

In addition, when a stick-type cosmetic composition was manufactured with the composition of Comparative Example 6, the Gr level was 0.15, showing a blurring effect of about half that of the Example, confirming that the Example of the present invention was the best in terms of blurring effect.

Experimental Example 3: Confirmation of the optimal combination ratio of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin

The melting sensation and blurring effect of the cosmetic compositions manufactured in Examples 1, 3, and 4 of Table 1 above were evaluated when applied to the skin. Specifically, the spreadability, makeup effect, and ease of use on the lips were compared/evaluated on 20 women aged 25 to 40, and the results are shown in Table 2 below. At this time, the compositions of Examples 1, 3, and 4 above were evaluated using a scoring method in which a poor usability evaluation score is 1 and the best evaluation score is 9.

[Table 2]

As a result, as confirmed in Table 2 above, in the case of the examples, the melting feeling, blurriness, and ease of makeup were found to be 8.0 or higher overall, confirming that the formulation had the best usability. In particular, it was found that the makeup composition of Comparative Example 1 did not contain C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin, so the melting feeling was low and the blurriness effect was not high.

Meanwhile, Comparative Examples 3 and 4 had stearoyl inulin contents of 1.0% and 0.5%, respectively, and showed that the ease of application decreased when the content of stearoyl inulin increased compared to the examples, and it was confirmed that the preference for the feeling of use due to the melting and blurring sensation was lowered because an excessive amount of application was formed on the lips.

The above description of the present invention is for illustrative purposes only, and those skilled in the art will understand that the present invention can be easily modified into other specific forms without changing the technical idea or essential characteristics of the present invention. Therefore, it should be understood that the embodiments described above are exemplary in all respects and not restrictive.

Claims (12)

A stick-type cosmetic composition for the lips, comprising an elastomer gel and a gelling agent, wherein the elastomer gel comprises a silicone elastomer gel and a wax. A cosmetic composition in claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer gel comprises silicone oil and silicone crosspolymer. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that in claim 2, the silicone oil is dimethicone, and the silicone crosspolymer is dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, or C13-15 alkane and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the gelling agent is stearoyl inulin. A cosmetic composition in claim 1, wherein the wax is at least one selected from the group consisting of synthetic wax, vegetable wax, and microcrystalline wax. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the elastomer gel is contained in an amount of 40 to 60 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition in claim 2, wherein the silicone crosspolymer is contained in an amount of 5 to 15 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition in claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition in claim 1, wherein the wax is contained in an amount of 8 to 12 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition further comprising powder and pigment in claim 1. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition has improved usability, maintained formulation stability, and improved blurry effect. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a lip balm, lip gloss, lip crayon, lip pencil or lipstick.

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