WO2024242539A1 - Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres ayant une sensation d'utilisation douce et un excellent effet de dissimulation des rides - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres ayant une sensation d'utilisation douce et un excellent effet de dissimulation des rides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024242539A1
WO2024242539A1 PCT/KR2024/095826 KR2024095826W WO2024242539A1 WO 2024242539 A1 WO2024242539 A1 WO 2024242539A1 KR 2024095826 W KR2024095826 W KR 2024095826W WO 2024242539 A1 WO2024242539 A1 WO 2024242539A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
parts
dimethicone
crosspolymer
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/KR2024/095826
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
임상혁
최혜선
우영화
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cosmax Inc
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Cosmax Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cosmax Inc filed Critical Cosmax Inc
Publication of WO2024242539A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024242539A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for lips.
  • the cosmetic effect that makes the lips look soft and natural is called the blurry effect.
  • the viscosity of the formulation increased excessively, making the surface of the stick uneven after filling, making it difficult to mold, and problems with formulation stability occurred such as the stick breaking.
  • One aspect provides a stick-type lip cosmetic composition
  • a stick-type lip cosmetic composition comprising an elastomer gel and a gelling agent.
  • One aspect is to provide a stick-type lip cosmetic composition comprising an elastomer gel and a gelling agent.
  • stick type in this specification means a solid formulation such as a stick type or a balm type, and may be distinguished from a liquid type or a gel type.
  • elastomer gel used herein includes silicone elastomer gel and wax, which can improve the melting sensation of a stick formulation in a cosmetic composition, provide a thick sliding sensation, and allow colors to spread smoothly to provide an even and smooth color gradation effect or a blurring effect.
  • the gradient effect or blurry effect was confirmed through the result (Gr level) that quantifies the gradient effect according to the distance.
  • the method for measuring the Gr level is designed to measure the degree of color gradation that spreads smoothly and evenly according to the distance within artificial leather (circle, diameter 18 mm, 25 mm, 40 mm) of a size similar to lips, and 15 ⁇ l of each composition was applied to the artificial leather, rubbed evenly 30 times, dried for 10 minutes, and then the L-Value value was measured to confirm the color saturation. The L-Value value versus the distance was obtained to objectify and compare the blurry effect as a gradient slope value.
  • the above silicone elastomer gel refers to a thermoplastic polymer elastic material having viscoelasticity composed of a silicone component (including a compound having a -Si-O-Si- bond), and may be manufactured in an oil dispersion formulation.
  • the silicone elastomer gel may include silicone oil and a silicone crosspolymer, and specifically, may include dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, PEG-3 dimethicone, polysilicone-11, dimethicone crosspolymer, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone copolyol, or mixtures thereof, or copolymers thereof.
  • the silicone oil is dimethicone
  • the silicone crosspolymer can be dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer, and even more specifically, the silicone crosspolymer can be C13-15 Alkane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
  • the silicone elastomer gel can be used commercially or can be easily obtained according to a manufacturing method known in the art.
  • the elastomer gel may be included in an amount of 40 to 60 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the silicone crosspolymer may be included in an amount of 5 to 10 parts by weight, 5 to 12 parts by weight, 5 to 15 parts by weight, 7 to 10 parts by weight, 7 to 12 parts by weight, or 10 to 12 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. If the silicone crosspolymer is included in excess of the above range, the formability may be poor, making it difficult to form a complete stick shape, thereby reducing the stability of the formulation, and if it is included in an amount less than the above range, the desired blurring effect may be reduced.
  • gelling agent refers to a substance that coagulates a dairy component to form a gel, and specifically, may be an oil gelling agent, and more specifically, may be stearoyl inulin.
  • the stearoyl inulin is produced by a condensation reaction of inulin, a storage polysaccharide of a polymer in which fructose is linked by a ⁇ -2,1- bond, and stearic acid chloride, and has excellent gelling ability for silicone oil and can enhance emulsification stability by increasing the viscosity of the silicone oil phase.
  • the gelling agent may be included in an amount of less than 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, and if included in excess of the above range, the stability of the cosmetic composition formulation may be reduced, and too much may be applied when applied to the lips, thereby reducing the ease of application and feel of the makeup.
  • wax may be at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon wax, synthetic wax, vegetable wax, and microcrystalline wax, and may be included in an amount of 8 to 12 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention was prepared by including 33.8 parts by weight of dimethicone as the silicone oil, 10 parts by weight of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as the silicone crosspolymer, 3.8 parts by weight of synthetic wax as the wax, 2.5 parts by weight of rice bran wax (Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax) as the vegetable wax, and 1.8 parts by weight of microcrystalline wax.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may additionally contain powder and pigment.
  • the powder may be contained in an amount of 8 to 12 parts by weight and the pigment may be contained in an amount of 1 to 5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the components corresponding to wax and oil among the components listed in Table 1 below were weighed according to their respective contents, and then melt-mixed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 85 to 90°C.
  • elastomer gel, powder, and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melt-mixed state, and uniformly dispersed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 80 to 85°C, thereby preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by improved usability, maintained formulation stability, and enhanced blurry effect.
  • the stick-type lip cosmetic composition of the present invention has high melting feeling, excellent formability after filling, and high blurry effect.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for the lips, and may be a lip balm, lip gloss, lip crayon, lip pencil or lipstick formulation, and specifically, may be a lipstick formulation.
  • the cosmetic composition may further include a functional additive and an ingredient included in a general cosmetic composition, for example, the functional additive may be a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble vitamin, a high molecular peptide, a high molecular polysaccharide, a sphingolipid or a seaweed extract, and the ingredient included in the general cosmetic composition may be a fat component, a moisturizer, an emollient, a surfactant, an organic powder, an ultraviolet absorber, a preservative, a bactericide, an antioxidant, a plant extract, a pH adjuster, alcohol, a fragrance, a blood circulation promoter, a cooling agent or an antiperspirant, but is not particularly limited thereto.
  • the lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by improved melting sensation, thus improving the feeling of use, maintaining formulation stability, thus providing excellent formability in a stick formulation, and improving the blurry effect.
  • Figure 1 is an image of the lips before and after applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to the lips, showing the effect of alleviating the prominence of lip wrinkles, thereby enabling the expression of lips with less curvature and softness.
  • FIG. 2 shows photographs of the gradient effect (blurred makeup effect) on artificial skin for each of cosmetic compositions (Example and Comparative Example 1) containing C13-15 Alkane and Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Stearoyl Inulin.
  • Figure 3 shows the results of numerically evaluating the gradient effect according to distance in terms of Gr Level (gradation level) for each of the cosmetic compositions (Examples, Comparative Examples 1, 2, 5, and 6) containing C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin.
  • Figure 4 shows the result of molding the composition of Comparative Example 2 into a pouring type, which shows an uneven surface when filling the formulation due to excessively high viscosity.
  • Figure 5 shows the result of molding the composition of Comparative Example 5 into a pouring type, which shows that the viscosity is too high, resulting in poor moldability after filling, making it difficult to form a complete stick shape.
  • each cosmetic composition was manufactured with a composition as shown in Table 1 below (unit: weight %).
  • the raw materials corresponding to waxes synthetic wax, rice bran wax, microcrystalline wax
  • oils isododecane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, diglyceryl sebacate/isopalmitate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone/IPDI copolymer ethyl carbamate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, isohexadecane caprylic/capric triglyceride, methicone, isostearyl alcohol, propylene carbonate, and trideceth-7) were weighed into a beaker according to each content, and then the mixture was stirred at 2,500 rpm using a homogenizer while maintaining the temperature at 85 to 90°C.
  • silicone crosspolymer, gelling agent (Stearoyl Inulin), powder phase and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melted mixture state, and uniformly dispersed using a homogeneous mixer at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 80 to 85°C.
  • stick-type cosmetic compositions having the same compositions as Comparative Examples 2, 5, and 6 in Table 1 were prepared.
  • Comparative Example 2 used an elastomer gel containing 7.0% dimethicone, 2.25% dimethicone crosspolymer, and 0.75% diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, which are similar in terms of blurring effect, instead of 10.0% of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer among the components described in Table 1, and 0.1% of dextrin palmitate was used as a gelling agent.
  • Comparative Example 5 used 0.1% of dextrin palmitate instead of stearoyl inulin among the ingredients listed in Table 1, and Comparative Example 6 used an elastomer gel further containing 7.0% of dimethicone, 2.25% of dimethicone crosspolymer, and 0.75% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, which have similar blurring effects, instead of 10.0% of C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer among the ingredients listed in Table 1.
  • the raw materials corresponding to the wax and oil parts were weighed in a beaker according to each content, and then melt-mixed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 85 to 90°C. Thereafter, each silicone crosspolymer, gelling agent, powder phase, and pigment were added to the oil phase in the melt-mixed state, and uniformly dispersed at 2,500 rpm for 20 minutes using a homogenizer while maintaining a temperature of 80 to 85°C. Thereafter, air bubbles in the manufactured composition were removed, impurities were filtered, and the composition was melted at 80°C in a hot pouring type stick container, filled, and cooled to manufacture a stick-type cosmetic composition. The results of the blurring effect test for each cosmetic composition are shown in Fig. 3.
  • the melting sensation and blurring effect of the cosmetic compositions manufactured in Examples 1, 3, and 4 of Table 1 above were evaluated when applied to the skin. Specifically, the spreadability, makeup effect, and ease of use on the lips were compared/evaluated on 20 women aged 25 to 40, and the results are shown in Table 2 below. At this time, the compositions of Examples 1, 3, and 4 above were evaluated using a scoring method in which a poor usability evaluation score is 1 and the best evaluation score is 9.
  • the melting feeling, blurriness, and ease of makeup were found to be 8.0 or higher overall, confirming that the formulation had the best usability.
  • the makeup composition of Comparative Example 1 did not contain C13-15 alkane & dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and stearoyl inulin, so the melting feeling was low and the blurriness effect was not high.
  • Comparative Examples 3 and 4 had stearoyl inulin contents of 1.0% and 0.5%, respectively, and showed that the ease of application decreased when the content of stearoyl inulin increased compared to the examples, and it was confirmed that the preference for the feeling of use due to the melting and blurring sensation was lowered because an excessive amount of application was formed on the lips.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour les lèvres de type en bâton. La composition cosmétique selon la présente invention présente une sensation de fusion améliorée et ainsi une sensation d'utilisation améliorée, maintient la stabilité de la formulation et présente ainsi une excellente formabilité en une formulation de bâton, et a un effet d'effacement amélioré.
PCT/KR2024/095826 2023-05-23 2024-05-17 Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres ayant une sensation d'utilisation douce et un excellent effet de dissimulation des rides Ceased WO2024242539A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1020230066510A KR20240168753A (ko) 2023-05-23 2023-05-23 부드러운 사용감 및 주름 은폐 효과가 우수한 입술용 화장료 조성물
KR10-2023-0066510 2023-05-23

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WO2024242539A1 true WO2024242539A1 (fr) 2024-11-28

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PCT/KR2024/095826 Ceased WO2024242539A1 (fr) 2023-05-23 2024-05-17 Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres ayant une sensation d'utilisation douce et un excellent effet de dissimulation des rides

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WO (1) WO2024242539A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102921101B1 (ko) 2025-05-30 2026-02-02 한국콜마주식회사 셀룰로오스 입자를 포함하는 블러 효과가 우수한 화장료 조성물

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20050013680A (ko) * 2003-07-29 2005-02-05 주식회사 코리아나화장품 오일 겔화제로서 스테아로일 이눌린을 포함하는 유중수형유화 파운데이션 화장료 조성물
KR20160077757A (ko) * 2014-12-24 2016-07-04 주식회사 엘지생활건강 오일 분산형 화장료 조성물
WO2018022632A1 (fr) * 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 L'oreal Système de soins cosmétiques.
KR20190109434A (ko) * 2017-02-02 2019-09-25 샤넬 파르퓜 보트 고상의 유중수 화장품 에멀젼
KR20220056417A (ko) * 2020-10-28 2022-05-06 코스맥스 주식회사 실리콘 겔 엘라스토머 함량이 높은 스틱형 화장료 조성물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20050013680A (ko) * 2003-07-29 2005-02-05 주식회사 코리아나화장품 오일 겔화제로서 스테아로일 이눌린을 포함하는 유중수형유화 파운데이션 화장료 조성물
KR20160077757A (ko) * 2014-12-24 2016-07-04 주식회사 엘지생활건강 오일 분산형 화장료 조성물
WO2018022632A1 (fr) * 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 L'oreal Système de soins cosmétiques.
KR20190109434A (ko) * 2017-02-02 2019-09-25 샤넬 파르퓜 보트 고상의 유중수 화장품 에멀젼
KR20220056417A (ko) * 2020-10-28 2022-05-06 코스맥스 주식회사 실리콘 겔 엘라스토머 함량이 높은 스틱형 화장료 조성물

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