WO2024259619A1 - Fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation - Google Patents

Fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024259619A1
WO2024259619A1 PCT/CN2023/101615 CN2023101615W WO2024259619A1 WO 2024259619 A1 WO2024259619 A1 WO 2024259619A1 CN 2023101615 W CN2023101615 W CN 2023101615W WO 2024259619 A1 WO2024259619 A1 WO 2024259619A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted
dimensional
preparing
coil group
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PCT/CN2023/101615
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English (en)
Chinese (zh)
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WO2024259619A8 (fr
Inventor
胡红
鞠紫昕
涂悦程
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Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Ltd
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Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Ltd
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Priority to PCT/CN2023/101615 priority Critical patent/WO2024259619A1/fr
Publication of WO2024259619A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024259619A1/fr
Publication of WO2024259619A8 publication Critical patent/WO2024259619A8/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of textile product manufacturing, and in particular to a curled yarn and a preparation method thereof.
  • Wool is an important raw material for the textile industry. It is a natural three-dimensional curly fiber with good warmth retention, good elasticity, and strong hygroscopicity. However, due to the very limited production and high price of natural wool, it is currently only used in high-end textiles. How to give synthetic fibers a three-dimensional curly shape and produce synthetic fibers similar to wool in terms of fluffiness and warmth retention is an important research direction in the textile industry and a problem that needs to be solved urgently.
  • curly synthetic fibers there are many methods for manufacturing curly synthetic fibers, including spinning methods such as two-component composite spinning and asymmetric cooling molding, as well as physical heating methods such as stuffing box and de-weaving deformation.
  • spinning methods such as two-component composite spinning and asymmetric cooling molding
  • physical heating methods such as stuffing box and de-weaving deformation.
  • China Invention Publication No. CN111575830A provides a method for producing self-curling polyester filaments, wherein the curly filaments involved use polybutylene terephthalate slices as components of the hollow structure, and composite resin and flame retardant masterbatch as components of the solid structure.
  • the two components are compositely spun to obtain self-curling polyester filaments, which have good breaking strength, elongation at break and flame retardant properties.
  • China Invention CN102691117B provides a preparation process for three-dimensional curly stereoscopic hollow polyester staple fibers.
  • the hollow fibers are produced by adopting a production process of low-temperature spinning, quenching of the filaments and a special ring-blowing filter element, so that the melt ejected from the spinneret is instantly cooled, and through the difference in cooling of the fiber cross section, a spiral three-dimensional curly stereoscopic hollow fiber is formed in the longitudinal direction of the fiber.
  • Chinese invention CN101198731B provides a stuffer box crimping machine and a crimping method and a method for manufacturing cellulose acetate tow using the crimping machine, wherein the stuffer box crimping machine includes a pair of rollers, a pair of scrapers and a stuffer box, the stuffer box includes a stuffer box slot whose surface is made of a hard material with a hardness of at least 60Rc, and can produce synthetic fibers with crimped corrugations.
  • the crimped yarn involved in the US invention patent application US3330018A is a cylindrical fabric in which the yarn is first woven into a plain weave and a floating yarn alternating with each other by a de-weaving deformation method, and then de-weaved and de-dispersed into a crimped yarn with a section of crimping and a section of straight alternating after heat setting.
  • the yarn has a continuous regular and evenly spaced knitted coil curling shape, and can be used to weave wrinkled fabrics with concave-convex effects and special styles.
  • One object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art and provide a three-dimensional curling Yarn;
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing three-dimensional crimped yarn with simple process.
  • the present invention provides a three-dimensional curled yarn, which is formed by alternating and continuously arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils.
  • the knitted front coil group includes 1-3 knitted front coils
  • the knitted back coil group includes 1-3 knitted back coils.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn is a thermoplastic yarn.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn is a polylactic acid yarn, and the linear density of the polylactic acid yarn is 50D-1200D.
  • the present invention provides a method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn, comprising the following steps:
  • thermoplastic yarn raw material providing a thermoplastic yarn raw material, and knitting the thermoplastic yarn into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure on a weft knitting machine, wherein the knitted fabric is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils;
  • the double-sided knitted structure is a rib structure or a knitted structure including a rib structure.
  • the heat setting method includes dry heat setting and wet heat setting, and the heat setting temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the yarn raw material and lower than the melting temperature of the yarn raw material.
  • the yarn raw material is polylactic acid
  • the heat setting temperature is 80°C-160°C
  • the heat setting time is not less than 20 seconds.
  • the heat setting temperature is 120°C
  • the heat setting time is 90 seconds.
  • a de-knitting and de-raveling device is used to de-knit and de-ravel the heat-set knitted fabric into three-dimensional curled yarn and wind it
  • the de-knitting and de-raveling device includes a front roller, a rear roller and a yarn drum working with the rear roller, the yarn is de-knitted from the heat-set knitted fabric, the yarn passes through the front roller and the rear roller in sequence, and is wound onto the yarn drum, wherein the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
  • the rotational linear speed of the front roller is 1.1-2.0 times greater than the rotational linear speed of the rear roller.
  • the de-knitting and de-raveling device further comprises a rotatable yarn guide disposed between the front roller and the rear roller, wherein the yarn guide is used for guiding and transmitting the yarn.
  • the method further comprises cutting the prepared three-dimensional crimped yarn into short fibers.
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn provided by the present invention first weaves the yarn raw material into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure, and after heat setting, unweaves and de-loosens the knitted fabric into the three-dimensional curled yarn, and makes the curled yarn be evenly and layer by layer wound onto the yarn tube while maintaining the curled shape.
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn provided by the present invention is simple to operate, low in cost, and easy to implement. In the production process, there is no need to use large equipment such as melt spinning machines and control complex asymmetric cooling conditions.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions. It not only has a plump hand feel, good fluffiness, and high elasticity, but its curled shape can also improve the cohesive force during fiber processing and the dimensional stability of the fabric.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a three-dimensional crimped yarn according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a de-knitting and de-raveling device in the method for preparing three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
  • FIG3 is a flow chart of a method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in the first embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in a second embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 6 shows a schematic diagram of a double-sided knitting structure in a third embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
  • FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in a fourth embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram showing a plain knitting structure in an existing method for preparing a curly yarn.
  • connection can mean fixed connection, detachable connection, or integral connection;
  • connected can mean direct connection, or
  • the terms "upper”, “lower”, “left”, “right”, “front”, “rear” and the like indicate directions or positional relationships based on the directions or positional relationships shown in the drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the embodiments of the invention and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the devices or units referred to must have a specific direction, be constructed and operated in a specific direction, and therefore, cannot be understood as limiting the embodiments of the invention.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is formed by alternating and continuously arranging the knitted front coil group and the knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions.
  • the knitted front coil group and the knitted back coil group are continuously arranged, that is, there is no straight floating line between the front coil group and the knitted back coil group.
  • Each knitted front coil group includes one knitted front coil 11, or includes multiple, for example 3, knitted front coils 11. When there are multiple knitted front coils 11 in each knitted front coil group, these knitted front coils 11 are arranged continuously, that is, there is no straight floating line between two adjacent knitted front coils 11; each knitted back coil group includes one knitted back coil 12, or includes multiple, for example 3, knitted back coils 12. When there are multiple knitted back coils 12 in each knitted front coil group, these knitted back coils 12 are arranged continuously, that is, there is no straight floating line between two adjacent knitted back coils 12.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention has no straight floating lines, but is composed of multiple tightly arranged outer knitted coils.
  • the coils are dense and have a high degree of bending.
  • the bending direction of the knitted front coil 11 is different from that of the knitted back coil 12. Therefore, it has good three-dimensionality and excellent fluffiness.
  • FIG. 1 only shows the case where the knitted front coil group includes only one knitted front coil 11 and the knitted back coil group includes only one knitted back coil 12, and the three-dimensional curled yarn is formed by alternating and continuously arranging one knitted front coil 11 and one knitted back coil 12.
  • the three-dimensional curled yarn may be formed by alternating and continuously arranging two knitted front coils 11 and one knitted back coil 12, or by alternating and continuously arranging one knitted front coil 11 and three knitted back coils 12, or by alternating and continuously arranging three knitted front coils 11 and four knitted back coils 12, and so on.
  • the number of knitted front coils 11 in each knitted front coil group and the number of knitted back coils 12 in each knitted back coil group are not specifically limited, and can be appropriately increased or decreased according to design requirements.
  • the raw material of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is preferably thermoplastic yarn to facilitate heat setting.
  • the raw material of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is polylactic acid yarn
  • the linear density of the polylactic acid yarn can be in the range of 50D-1200D
  • the cross-sectional shape of the polylactic acid yarn can be circular, elliptical, hollow ring or special-shaped cross-section, etc.
  • Polylactic acid fiber is made from starch-rich herbaceous plants (such as corn and cassava), firstly through saccharification, fermentation, purification, polymerization and other biological methods to generate polylactic acid, and then through melt spinning.
  • the source of polylactic acid raw materials is abundant, the production process is environmentally friendly and non-toxic, and the related products can be degraded into carbon dioxide and water after being discarded, which is harmless to the environment and is a new type of green fiber.
  • Polylactic acid fiber not only has the natural characteristics of environmental compatibility and biodegradability, but also the fabric made of polylactic acid yarn has good warmth retention, good flame retardancy, comfortable hand feel, skin-friendly and antibacterial properties, and has high economic value.
  • the eco-friendly three-dimensional curly yarn made from polylactic acid yarn raw material has multiple different bending directions. It not only feels plump, fluffy and elastic, but its curly shape can also improve the cohesion during fiber processing and the dimensional stability of the fabric. It can be used to replace natural curly wool fibers with limited production and high prices.
  • the de-braiding and de-dispersing device used in the preparation method of the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is introduced below.
  • the de-braiding and de-dispersing device includes a front roller, a rear roller and a yarn drum 40.
  • the front roller includes a pair of front rollers 20 that work in cooperation with each other, one of the front rollers 20 is driven to rotate by a motor, and the other front roller 20 rotates with it;
  • the rear roller includes a rotatable rear roller 30, the rear roller 30 can be driven to rotate by a motor, and the yarn drum 40 works in cooperation with the rear roller 30 and rotates with it.
  • the yarn drum 40 can also move back and forth along its central axis.
  • the de-braiding and de-dispersing device also includes a yarn guide 50, which is rotatably arranged between the front roller and the rear roller for guiding and transmitting the yarn.
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention comprises the following steps:
  • thermoplastic yarn raw material knitting the thermoplastic yarn into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure on a weft knitting machine, wherein the knitted fabric is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils 11, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils 12;
  • the double-sided knitted structure is a rib structure or a modified rib structure containing the rib structure;
  • heat setting the knitted fabric includes dry heat setting and wet heat setting, the heat setting temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the yarn raw material and lower than the melting temperature of the yarn raw material; when the yarn raw material is polylactic acid, the heat setting temperature is 80°C-160°C, and the heat setting time is not less than 20s, preferably the heat setting temperature is 120°C, and the heat setting time is 90s;
  • the preparation method of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention adopts the knitting false knitting technology, that is, the yarn raw material is first spun into a knitted fabric, and then unraveled after heat setting to obtain the three-dimensional curly yarn.
  • the knitted fabric is a double-sided knitted structure, comprising knitted front coils and knitted back coils with different bending directions and arranged continuously, and then unraveled and unraveled into a three-dimensional curly yarn after heat setting.
  • the three-dimensional curly yarn comprises dense coils with multiple bending directions, and has excellent elasticity, fluffiness and warmth retention properties; in the process of winding the three-dimensional curly yarn onto the yarn tube, the curly shape is maintained and wound evenly and layer by layer to prevent the coil from becoming straight.
  • the preparation method of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is simple to operate, easy to implement, and can prepare a three-dimensional curly yarn similar to high-quality natural wool.
  • the method for preparing three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention uses the above-mentioned de-knitting and de-dispersing device to de-knit and de-disperse the heat-set knitted fabric into three-dimensional curled yarn and wind it onto a yarn drum.
  • the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
  • the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than 1.1-2.0 times the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
  • the yarn guide 50 in the de-knitting and de-dispersing device can not only guide the yarn transmission, but also feed the yarn into the winding area of the yarn drum in time through its own rotation to avoid the knitting coil from being stretched; with the uniform reciprocating motion of the yarn drum along its axis, the yarn with the curled coil can be evenly wound onto the yarn drum layer by layer.
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn in Example 1 of the present invention uses a 50D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 2 of the present invention uses a 75D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 3 uses a 150D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 4 of the present invention uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 5 of the present invention uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a triangular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 6 uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a cross-shaped cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the yarn raw material used in Example 7 of the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is hollow 300D polylactic acid filaments, and the method comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of Example 8 of the present invention uses a yarn raw material of 450D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section, comprising the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 9 of the present invention uses a 600D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the heat-set polylactic acid fabric is unwoven and unraveled into three-dimensional curly yarn on an unwoven and unraveling device, and then evenly The yarn is evenly and layer by layer wound onto the yarn bobbin, wherein the front roller de-strapping speed is 1.3 times the yarn bobbin winding speed.
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 10 of the present invention uses a 900D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 11 uses a 1200D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 12 of the present invention uses a 300D polyester filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 8 of the present invention uses a 300D lyocell filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
  • the prepared three-dimensional curled yarn can be further cut into short fibers to expand its use in textile filling materials, for example, as filling fiber for down jackets, sleeping bags, pillow cores, mattresses and soft toys.
  • Comparative Example 1 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, wherein the yarn raw material is 300D polylactic acid with a circular cross section.
  • the filaments are prepared as follows:
  • Comparative Example 2 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, which uses a 450D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross-section as a yarn raw material and is prepared according to the following method:
  • Comparative Example 3 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, which uses 600D polylactic acid filaments with a circular cross-section as a yarn raw material and is prepared according to the following method:
  • the curl number refers to the number of curls per unit length of the yarn
  • the curl rate refers to the degree of shortening of the yarn after curling.
  • the curl number and curl rate of the three-dimensional curled filaments prepared by the de-knitting deformation method are closely related to the coil length of the knitted fabric. The shorter the coil length of the knitted fabric, the greater the curl number and curl rate of the three-dimensional curled yarn obtained by de-knitting, and vice versa, that is, the curling performance of the three-dimensional curled filaments can be improved by adjusting the coil length of the knitted fabric. It can be seen from the test results of the embodiments of the present invention and the comparative examples that the fluffy performance of the three-dimensional curled yarn of the embodiments of the present invention is generally better than that of the comparative example.
  • Example 4 of the present invention is 53.28%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 1 is 52.72%; similarly, under the same conditions, the fluffiness of Example 8 of the present invention is 54.69%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 2 is 52.99%; the fluffiness of Example 9 of the present invention is 56.48%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 3 is 53.28%.
  • the three-dimensional curly filaments obtained by unweaving ribbed and its variant fabrics have better fluffy properties than the three-dimensional curly filaments obtained by unweaving plain fabrics. This is because the configuration of the coils in the plain fabric is directional, and the curly yarns obtained by unweaving the plain fabric are only unidirectionally curly; while the coils in the ribbed and its variant fabrics have different bending directions, and the coils obtained after unweaving this type of fabric are bidirectionally curly, with a higher three-dimensional degree.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation. Le fil crêpé tridimensionnel est formé par agencement en alternance et en continu d'un groupe de mailles endroit tricoté et d'un groupe de mailles envers tricotées, et est sous une forme crêpée tridimensionnelle ayant différentes directions de crêpage, le groupe de mailles endroit tricotées comprenant une ou plusieurs mailles endroit tricotées agencées en continu (11), et le groupe de mailles envers tricotées comprenant une ou plusieurs mailles envers tricotées agencées en continu (12). Le fil crêpé tridimensionnel est formé par agencement alterné du groupe de mailles endroit tricotées et du groupe de mailles envers tricotées, se présente sous une forme crêpée tridimensionnelle ayant différentes directions de crêpage, et présente ainsi une sensation de main pleine, un bon gonflant et une élasticité élevée, et la forme crêpée du fil frisé tridimensionnel peut également améliorer la force de cohésion pendant le traitement de fibres et la stabilité dimensionnelle des tissus.
PCT/CN2023/101615 2023-06-21 2023-06-21 Fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation Pending WO2024259619A1 (fr)

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PCT/CN2023/101615 WO2024259619A1 (fr) 2023-06-21 2023-06-21 Fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation

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PCT/CN2023/101615 WO2024259619A1 (fr) 2023-06-21 2023-06-21 Fil crêpé tridimensionnel et son procédé de préparation

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Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1115736A (en) * 1964-07-27 1968-05-29 Textile Machine Works Improvements in textured yarn and method and apparatus for making same
GB1387944A (en) * 1971-04-29 1975-03-19 Roannais Constr Textiles Textured yarn and method for its manufacture
JP2001098432A (ja) * 1999-09-29 2001-04-10 Toray Ind Inc 捲縮糸およびその製造方法
JP2001098433A (ja) * 1999-09-30 2001-04-10 Toray Ind Inc ニットデニット糸の製造方法
JP2003342842A (ja) * 2002-05-23 2003-12-03 Toray Ind Inc 高機能繊維捲縮糸およびその製造方法ならびに繊維製品
CN101743349A (zh) * 2007-07-13 2010-06-16 精炼株式会社 防止抽丝和卷曲发生的能力优异的双面针织物及其加工方法
CN109137192A (zh) * 2018-07-25 2019-01-04 青岛即发集团股份有限公司 一种段彩纱的生产方法及生产的复合纱线和纺织品
CN110983465A (zh) * 2019-12-24 2020-04-10 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 用于针织的自卷曲弹性混纤丝的制备方法

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1115736A (en) * 1964-07-27 1968-05-29 Textile Machine Works Improvements in textured yarn and method and apparatus for making same
GB1387944A (en) * 1971-04-29 1975-03-19 Roannais Constr Textiles Textured yarn and method for its manufacture
JP2001098432A (ja) * 1999-09-29 2001-04-10 Toray Ind Inc 捲縮糸およびその製造方法
JP2001098433A (ja) * 1999-09-30 2001-04-10 Toray Ind Inc ニットデニット糸の製造方法
JP2003342842A (ja) * 2002-05-23 2003-12-03 Toray Ind Inc 高機能繊維捲縮糸およびその製造方法ならびに繊維製品
CN101743349A (zh) * 2007-07-13 2010-06-16 精炼株式会社 防止抽丝和卷曲发生的能力优异的双面针织物及其加工方法
CN109137192A (zh) * 2018-07-25 2019-01-04 青岛即发集团股份有限公司 一种段彩纱的生产方法及生产的复合纱线和纺织品
CN110983465A (zh) * 2019-12-24 2020-04-10 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 用于针织的自卷曲弹性混纤丝的制备方法

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