WO2024259619A1 - 三维卷曲纱线及其制备方法 - Google Patents
三维卷曲纱线及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024259619A1 WO2024259619A1 PCT/CN2023/101615 CN2023101615W WO2024259619A1 WO 2024259619 A1 WO2024259619 A1 WO 2024259619A1 CN 2023101615 W CN2023101615 W CN 2023101615W WO 2024259619 A1 WO2024259619 A1 WO 2024259619A1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
Definitions
- the invention relates to the technical field of textile product manufacturing, and in particular to a curled yarn and a preparation method thereof.
- Wool is an important raw material for the textile industry. It is a natural three-dimensional curly fiber with good warmth retention, good elasticity, and strong hygroscopicity. However, due to the very limited production and high price of natural wool, it is currently only used in high-end textiles. How to give synthetic fibers a three-dimensional curly shape and produce synthetic fibers similar to wool in terms of fluffiness and warmth retention is an important research direction in the textile industry and a problem that needs to be solved urgently.
- curly synthetic fibers there are many methods for manufacturing curly synthetic fibers, including spinning methods such as two-component composite spinning and asymmetric cooling molding, as well as physical heating methods such as stuffing box and de-weaving deformation.
- spinning methods such as two-component composite spinning and asymmetric cooling molding
- physical heating methods such as stuffing box and de-weaving deformation.
- China Invention Publication No. CN111575830A provides a method for producing self-curling polyester filaments, wherein the curly filaments involved use polybutylene terephthalate slices as components of the hollow structure, and composite resin and flame retardant masterbatch as components of the solid structure.
- the two components are compositely spun to obtain self-curling polyester filaments, which have good breaking strength, elongation at break and flame retardant properties.
- China Invention CN102691117B provides a preparation process for three-dimensional curly stereoscopic hollow polyester staple fibers.
- the hollow fibers are produced by adopting a production process of low-temperature spinning, quenching of the filaments and a special ring-blowing filter element, so that the melt ejected from the spinneret is instantly cooled, and through the difference in cooling of the fiber cross section, a spiral three-dimensional curly stereoscopic hollow fiber is formed in the longitudinal direction of the fiber.
- Chinese invention CN101198731B provides a stuffer box crimping machine and a crimping method and a method for manufacturing cellulose acetate tow using the crimping machine, wherein the stuffer box crimping machine includes a pair of rollers, a pair of scrapers and a stuffer box, the stuffer box includes a stuffer box slot whose surface is made of a hard material with a hardness of at least 60Rc, and can produce synthetic fibers with crimped corrugations.
- the crimped yarn involved in the US invention patent application US3330018A is a cylindrical fabric in which the yarn is first woven into a plain weave and a floating yarn alternating with each other by a de-weaving deformation method, and then de-weaved and de-dispersed into a crimped yarn with a section of crimping and a section of straight alternating after heat setting.
- the yarn has a continuous regular and evenly spaced knitted coil curling shape, and can be used to weave wrinkled fabrics with concave-convex effects and special styles.
- One object of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the prior art and provide a three-dimensional curling Yarn;
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing three-dimensional crimped yarn with simple process.
- the present invention provides a three-dimensional curled yarn, which is formed by alternating and continuously arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils.
- the knitted front coil group includes 1-3 knitted front coils
- the knitted back coil group includes 1-3 knitted back coils.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn is a thermoplastic yarn.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn is a polylactic acid yarn, and the linear density of the polylactic acid yarn is 50D-1200D.
- the present invention provides a method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn, comprising the following steps:
- thermoplastic yarn raw material providing a thermoplastic yarn raw material, and knitting the thermoplastic yarn into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure on a weft knitting machine, wherein the knitted fabric is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils;
- the double-sided knitted structure is a rib structure or a knitted structure including a rib structure.
- the heat setting method includes dry heat setting and wet heat setting, and the heat setting temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the yarn raw material and lower than the melting temperature of the yarn raw material.
- the yarn raw material is polylactic acid
- the heat setting temperature is 80°C-160°C
- the heat setting time is not less than 20 seconds.
- the heat setting temperature is 120°C
- the heat setting time is 90 seconds.
- a de-knitting and de-raveling device is used to de-knit and de-ravel the heat-set knitted fabric into three-dimensional curled yarn and wind it
- the de-knitting and de-raveling device includes a front roller, a rear roller and a yarn drum working with the rear roller, the yarn is de-knitted from the heat-set knitted fabric, the yarn passes through the front roller and the rear roller in sequence, and is wound onto the yarn drum, wherein the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
- the rotational linear speed of the front roller is 1.1-2.0 times greater than the rotational linear speed of the rear roller.
- the de-knitting and de-raveling device further comprises a rotatable yarn guide disposed between the front roller and the rear roller, wherein the yarn guide is used for guiding and transmitting the yarn.
- the method further comprises cutting the prepared three-dimensional crimped yarn into short fibers.
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn provided by the present invention first weaves the yarn raw material into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure, and after heat setting, unweaves and de-loosens the knitted fabric into the three-dimensional curled yarn, and makes the curled yarn be evenly and layer by layer wound onto the yarn tube while maintaining the curled shape.
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn provided by the present invention is simple to operate, low in cost, and easy to implement. In the production process, there is no need to use large equipment such as melt spinning machines and control complex asymmetric cooling conditions.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions. It not only has a plump hand feel, good fluffiness, and high elasticity, but its curled shape can also improve the cohesive force during fiber processing and the dimensional stability of the fabric.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a three-dimensional crimped yarn according to the present invention.
- FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a de-knitting and de-raveling device in the method for preparing three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
- FIG3 is a flow chart of a method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
- FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in the first embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
- FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in a second embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
- FIG. 6 shows a schematic diagram of a double-sided knitting structure in a third embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention.
- FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing a double-sided knitting structure in a fourth embodiment of the method for preparing a three-dimensional curled yarn according to the present invention.
- FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram showing a plain knitting structure in an existing method for preparing a curly yarn.
- connection can mean fixed connection, detachable connection, or integral connection;
- connected can mean direct connection, or
- the terms "upper”, “lower”, “left”, “right”, “front”, “rear” and the like indicate directions or positional relationships based on the directions or positional relationships shown in the drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the embodiments of the invention and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the devices or units referred to must have a specific direction, be constructed and operated in a specific direction, and therefore, cannot be understood as limiting the embodiments of the invention.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is formed by alternating and continuously arranging the knitted front coil group and the knitted back coil group to form a three-dimensional curled shape with different bending directions.
- the knitted front coil group and the knitted back coil group are continuously arranged, that is, there is no straight floating line between the front coil group and the knitted back coil group.
- Each knitted front coil group includes one knitted front coil 11, or includes multiple, for example 3, knitted front coils 11. When there are multiple knitted front coils 11 in each knitted front coil group, these knitted front coils 11 are arranged continuously, that is, there is no straight floating line between two adjacent knitted front coils 11; each knitted back coil group includes one knitted back coil 12, or includes multiple, for example 3, knitted back coils 12. When there are multiple knitted back coils 12 in each knitted front coil group, these knitted back coils 12 are arranged continuously, that is, there is no straight floating line between two adjacent knitted back coils 12.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention has no straight floating lines, but is composed of multiple tightly arranged outer knitted coils.
- the coils are dense and have a high degree of bending.
- the bending direction of the knitted front coil 11 is different from that of the knitted back coil 12. Therefore, it has good three-dimensionality and excellent fluffiness.
- FIG. 1 only shows the case where the knitted front coil group includes only one knitted front coil 11 and the knitted back coil group includes only one knitted back coil 12, and the three-dimensional curled yarn is formed by alternating and continuously arranging one knitted front coil 11 and one knitted back coil 12.
- the three-dimensional curled yarn may be formed by alternating and continuously arranging two knitted front coils 11 and one knitted back coil 12, or by alternating and continuously arranging one knitted front coil 11 and three knitted back coils 12, or by alternating and continuously arranging three knitted front coils 11 and four knitted back coils 12, and so on.
- the number of knitted front coils 11 in each knitted front coil group and the number of knitted back coils 12 in each knitted back coil group are not specifically limited, and can be appropriately increased or decreased according to design requirements.
- the raw material of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is preferably thermoplastic yarn to facilitate heat setting.
- the raw material of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is polylactic acid yarn
- the linear density of the polylactic acid yarn can be in the range of 50D-1200D
- the cross-sectional shape of the polylactic acid yarn can be circular, elliptical, hollow ring or special-shaped cross-section, etc.
- Polylactic acid fiber is made from starch-rich herbaceous plants (such as corn and cassava), firstly through saccharification, fermentation, purification, polymerization and other biological methods to generate polylactic acid, and then through melt spinning.
- the source of polylactic acid raw materials is abundant, the production process is environmentally friendly and non-toxic, and the related products can be degraded into carbon dioxide and water after being discarded, which is harmless to the environment and is a new type of green fiber.
- Polylactic acid fiber not only has the natural characteristics of environmental compatibility and biodegradability, but also the fabric made of polylactic acid yarn has good warmth retention, good flame retardancy, comfortable hand feel, skin-friendly and antibacterial properties, and has high economic value.
- the eco-friendly three-dimensional curly yarn made from polylactic acid yarn raw material has multiple different bending directions. It not only feels plump, fluffy and elastic, but its curly shape can also improve the cohesion during fiber processing and the dimensional stability of the fabric. It can be used to replace natural curly wool fibers with limited production and high prices.
- the de-braiding and de-dispersing device used in the preparation method of the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is introduced below.
- the de-braiding and de-dispersing device includes a front roller, a rear roller and a yarn drum 40.
- the front roller includes a pair of front rollers 20 that work in cooperation with each other, one of the front rollers 20 is driven to rotate by a motor, and the other front roller 20 rotates with it;
- the rear roller includes a rotatable rear roller 30, the rear roller 30 can be driven to rotate by a motor, and the yarn drum 40 works in cooperation with the rear roller 30 and rotates with it.
- the yarn drum 40 can also move back and forth along its central axis.
- the de-braiding and de-dispersing device also includes a yarn guide 50, which is rotatably arranged between the front roller and the rear roller for guiding and transmitting the yarn.
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention comprises the following steps:
- thermoplastic yarn raw material knitting the thermoplastic yarn into a knitted fabric with a double-sided knitted structure on a weft knitting machine, wherein the knitted fabric is formed by alternatingly arranging a knitted front coil group and a knitted back coil group, wherein the knitted front coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted front coils 11, and the knitted back coil group includes one or more continuously arranged knitted back coils 12;
- the double-sided knitted structure is a rib structure or a modified rib structure containing the rib structure;
- heat setting the knitted fabric includes dry heat setting and wet heat setting, the heat setting temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the yarn raw material and lower than the melting temperature of the yarn raw material; when the yarn raw material is polylactic acid, the heat setting temperature is 80°C-160°C, and the heat setting time is not less than 20s, preferably the heat setting temperature is 120°C, and the heat setting time is 90s;
- the preparation method of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention adopts the knitting false knitting technology, that is, the yarn raw material is first spun into a knitted fabric, and then unraveled after heat setting to obtain the three-dimensional curly yarn.
- the knitted fabric is a double-sided knitted structure, comprising knitted front coils and knitted back coils with different bending directions and arranged continuously, and then unraveled and unraveled into a three-dimensional curly yarn after heat setting.
- the three-dimensional curly yarn comprises dense coils with multiple bending directions, and has excellent elasticity, fluffiness and warmth retention properties; in the process of winding the three-dimensional curly yarn onto the yarn tube, the curly shape is maintained and wound evenly and layer by layer to prevent the coil from becoming straight.
- the preparation method of the three-dimensional curly yarn of the present invention is simple to operate, easy to implement, and can prepare a three-dimensional curly yarn similar to high-quality natural wool.
- the method for preparing three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention uses the above-mentioned de-knitting and de-dispersing device to de-knit and de-disperse the heat-set knitted fabric into three-dimensional curled yarn and wind it onto a yarn drum.
- the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
- the rotational linear speed of the front roller is greater than 1.1-2.0 times the rotational linear speed of the yarn drum.
- the yarn guide 50 in the de-knitting and de-dispersing device can not only guide the yarn transmission, but also feed the yarn into the winding area of the yarn drum in time through its own rotation to avoid the knitting coil from being stretched; with the uniform reciprocating motion of the yarn drum along its axis, the yarn with the curled coil can be evenly wound onto the yarn drum layer by layer.
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn in Example 1 of the present invention uses a 50D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 2 of the present invention uses a 75D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 3 uses a 150D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 4 of the present invention uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 5 of the present invention uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a triangular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 6 uses a 300D polylactic acid filament with a cross-shaped cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the yarn raw material used in Example 7 of the method for preparing the three-dimensional curled yarn of the present invention is hollow 300D polylactic acid filaments, and the method comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of Example 8 of the present invention uses a yarn raw material of 450D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section, comprising the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 9 of the present invention uses a 600D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the heat-set polylactic acid fabric is unwoven and unraveled into three-dimensional curly yarn on an unwoven and unraveling device, and then evenly The yarn is evenly and layer by layer wound onto the yarn bobbin, wherein the front roller de-strapping speed is 1.3 times the yarn bobbin winding speed.
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 10 of the present invention uses a 900D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn of the present invention in Example 11 uses a 1200D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 12 of the present invention uses a 300D polyester filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the method for preparing the three-dimensional crimped yarn in Example 8 of the present invention uses a 300D lyocell filament with a circular cross section as the yarn raw material, and comprises the following steps:
- the prepared three-dimensional curled yarn can be further cut into short fibers to expand its use in textile filling materials, for example, as filling fiber for down jackets, sleeping bags, pillow cores, mattresses and soft toys.
- Comparative Example 1 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, wherein the yarn raw material is 300D polylactic acid with a circular cross section.
- the filaments are prepared as follows:
- Comparative Example 2 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, which uses a 450D polylactic acid filament with a circular cross-section as a yarn raw material and is prepared according to the following method:
- Comparative Example 3 is a method for preparing a curly yarn, which uses 600D polylactic acid filaments with a circular cross-section as a yarn raw material and is prepared according to the following method:
- the curl number refers to the number of curls per unit length of the yarn
- the curl rate refers to the degree of shortening of the yarn after curling.
- the curl number and curl rate of the three-dimensional curled filaments prepared by the de-knitting deformation method are closely related to the coil length of the knitted fabric. The shorter the coil length of the knitted fabric, the greater the curl number and curl rate of the three-dimensional curled yarn obtained by de-knitting, and vice versa, that is, the curling performance of the three-dimensional curled filaments can be improved by adjusting the coil length of the knitted fabric. It can be seen from the test results of the embodiments of the present invention and the comparative examples that the fluffy performance of the three-dimensional curled yarn of the embodiments of the present invention is generally better than that of the comparative example.
- Example 4 of the present invention is 53.28%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 1 is 52.72%; similarly, under the same conditions, the fluffiness of Example 8 of the present invention is 54.69%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 2 is 52.99%; the fluffiness of Example 9 of the present invention is 56.48%, while the fluffiness of Comparative Example 3 is 53.28%.
- the three-dimensional curly filaments obtained by unweaving ribbed and its variant fabrics have better fluffy properties than the three-dimensional curly filaments obtained by unweaving plain fabrics. This is because the configuration of the coils in the plain fabric is directional, and the curly yarns obtained by unweaving the plain fabric are only unidirectionally curly; while the coils in the ribbed and its variant fabrics have different bending directions, and the coils obtained after unweaving this type of fabric are bidirectionally curly, with a higher three-dimensional degree.
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Abstract
一种三维卷曲纱线及其制备方法，该三维卷曲纱线由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列，且连续排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态，其中针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈(11)，针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈(12)。该三维卷曲纱线，由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态，不仅手感丰满、蓬松性好、弹性高，其卷曲形态还可提高纤维加工时的抱合力以及织物的尺寸稳定性。
Description
本发明涉及纺织产品制造技术领域，尤其涉及一种卷曲纱线及其制备方法。
羊毛是纺织工业的重要原料，具有保暖性好、弹性好、吸湿性强等特点，是一种天然的三维卷曲纤维。但是，由于天然羊毛的产量非常有限、价格昂贵，目前仅局限于应用在高档纺织品中。如何赋予合成纤维三维卷曲形态，生产出蓬松性、保暖性等方面类似羊毛的合成纤维，是纺织行业一个重要的研究方向，也是一个亟待解决的问题。
目前，已报道的制造卷曲合成纤维的方法有多种，包括双组份复合纺丝与非对称冷却成型等纺丝法，以及填塞箱与解编变形等物理加热法。例如，中国发明公开号CN111575830A提供了一种自卷曲聚酯长丝的生产方法，涉及的卷曲长丝以聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯切片作为中空结构的组分，复合树脂与阻燃母粒作为实心结构的组分，将两种组分复合纺丝得到自卷曲的聚酯长丝，该长丝具有良好的断裂强度、断裂伸长率与阻燃性能。中国发明CN102691117B提供了一种三维卷曲立体中空涤纶短纤维的制备工艺，在该纺丝工序的熔体冷却成型过程中，通过采用低温纺丝、丝条骤冷的生产工艺及特制的环吹风滤芯进行中空丝的生产，使从喷丝板喷出的熔体，被瞬间冷却，通过纤维截面冷却的差异性，在纤维纵向上，形成螺旋状的三维卷曲立体中空纤维。
中国发明CN101198731B提供了一种填塞箱卷曲机和卷曲方法以及用该卷曲机制造醋酸纤维素丝束的方法，其中的填塞箱卷曲机包括一对轧辊、一对刮刀和一个填塞箱，该填塞箱包括表面由硬度至少为60Rc的硬质材料构成的填塞箱槽，可生产具有卷曲波纹的合成纤维。美国发明专利申请US3330018A涉及的卷曲纱线为采用解编变形法先将纱线编织成平纹组织与浮线交替的圆筒织物，经热定型后，再解编脱散成一段卷曲与一段平直交替的卷曲纱线。该纱线具有连续规则且间隔均匀的针织线圈卷曲形状，可用于织造具有凹凸效应和特殊风格的起皱织物。
然而，使用双组份复合纺丝法与非对称冷却成形法虽能获得具有良好卷曲效果的纤维，但该类方法工艺流程复杂、投资成本高昂、生产难度较大；而采用填塞箱卷曲法生产的卷曲纤维大多数只能是锯齿波，其蓬松性和回弹性较差，无法满足新产品的开发需求；解编变形法设备简单，工艺流程短，是一种经济便利的卷曲纱线生产方法，但该方法中，编织的织物均为平纹组织，该类织物经热定型与脱散后得到的线圈屈曲程度有限、空间立体度差，且纱线的卷曲形态在常规的脱散与卷曲过程中易被破坏。
发明内容
本发明的一个目的在于，克服上述现有技术的不足，提供一种蓬松性好的三维卷曲
纱线；
本发明的另一个目的在于，提供一种工艺简单的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法。
根据本发明的一个方面，本发明提供一种三维卷曲纱线，所述三维卷曲纱线由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列，且连续排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态，其中所述针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述针织正面线圈组包括1-3个针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括1-3个针织反面线圈。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述三维卷曲纱线为热塑性纱线。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述三维卷曲纱线为聚乳酸纱线，所述聚乳酸纱线的线密度为50D-1200D。
根据本发明的另一个方面，本发明提供一种三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1，提供热塑性纱线原料，将所述热塑性纱线在纬编针织机上编织成具有双面针织结构的针织物，其中所述针织物由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列而成，其中所述针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈；
S2，将所编织的针织物进行热定型；
S3，将所述热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再将三维卷曲纱线在保持卷曲形态下均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述双面针织结构为罗纹组织或包含罗纹组织的针织结构。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述热定型方式包括干热定型与湿热定型，所述热定型的温度高于纱线原料的玻璃化温度，并低于纱线原料的熔融温度。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述纱线原料为聚乳酸，热定型温度为80℃-160℃，热定型时间为不低于20s。优选的，所述热定型温度为120℃，热定型时间为90s。
根据本发明的一实施方式，步骤S3，中，使用一解编脱散装置将所述热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线并卷绕，所述解编脱散装置包括前罗拉、后罗拉以及与所述后罗拉配合工作的纱筒，从已热定型后的针织物解编出纱线，纱线依次经过所述前罗拉、后罗拉，并卷绕到纱筒，其中所述前罗拉的转动线速度大于纱筒的转动线速度。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述前罗拉的转动线速度大于后罗拉的转动线速度的1.1-2.0倍。
根据本发明的一实施方式，所述解编脱散装置还包括设置于所述前罗拉和所述后罗拉之间的可转动的导纱器，所述导纱器用于引导和传输纱线。
根据本发明的一实施方式，还包括将制备的三维卷曲纱线切割成短纤维步骤。由上
述技术方案可知，本发明的优点和积极效果在于：
本发明提供的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，先将纱线原料编织成具有双面针织结构的针织物，经热定型后，再将针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，并使曲纱线在保持卷曲形态下均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上。本发明提供的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法操作简便、成本低廉、易于实现，在生产过程中无需使用熔融纺丝机等大型设备以及控制复杂的非对称冷却条件。本发明的三维卷曲纱线，由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态，不仅手感丰满、蓬松性好、弹性高，其卷曲形态还可提高纤维加工时的抱合力以及织物的尺寸稳定性。
通过参照附图详细描述其示例实施方式，本发明的上述和其它特征及优点将变得更加明显。
图1示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线的结构示意图。
图2示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法中的解编脱散装置的结构示意图。
图3为本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法的流程图。
图4示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法第一实施例中的双面针织结构示意图。
图5示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法第二实施例中的双面针织结构示意图。
图6示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法第三实施例中的双面针织结构示意图。
图7示出本发明的三维卷曲纱线制备方法第四实施例中的双面针织结构示意图。
图8示出现有的卷曲纱线制备方法中的平针针织结构示意图。
现在将参考附图更全面地描述示例实施方式。然而，示例实施方式能够以多种形式实施，且不应被理解为限于在此阐述的实施方式；相反，提供这些实施方式使得本发明将全面和完整，并将示例实施方式的构思全面地传达给本领域的技术人员。图中相同的附图标记表示相同或类似的结构，因而将省略它们的详细描述。
在本说明书的描述中，术语“一个实施例”、“一些实施例”、“具体实施例”等的描述意指结合该实施例或示例描述的具体特征、结构、材料或特点包含于发明实施例的至少一个实施例或示例中。在本说明书中，对上述术语的示意性表述不一定指的是相同的实施例或实例。而且，描述的具体特征、结构、材料或特点可以在任何的一个或多个实施例或示例中以合适的方式结合。
在发明实施例的描述中，需要理解的是，术语“第一”、“第二”、“第三”仅用于描述的目的，而不能理解为指示或暗示相对重要性；术语“多个”则指两个或两个以上，除非另有明确的限定。术语“安装”、“相连”、“连接”、“固定”等术语均应做广义理解，例如，“连接”可以是固定连接，也可以是可拆卸连接，或一体地连接；“相连”可以是直接相连，也可以
通过中间媒介间接相连。术语“上”、“下”、“左”、“右”、“前”、“后”等指示的方位或位置关系为基于附图所示的方位或位置关系，仅是为了便于描述发明实施例和简化描述，而不是指示或暗示所指的装置或单元必须具有特定的方向、以特定的方位构造和操作，因此，不能理解为对发明实施例的限制。
如图1所示，本发明的三维卷曲纱线，由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列，且连续排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态。针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组为连续排列，即在正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组之间不存在平直的浮线。
每个针织正面线圈组包括一个针织正面线圈11，或者包括多个例如3个针织正面线圈11，当每个针织正面线圈组中的针织正面线圈11为多个时，这些针织正面线圈11是连续排列的，即相邻的两个针织正面线圈11之间没有平直的浮线；每个针织反面线圈组包括一个针织反面线圈12，或者包括多个例如3个针织反面线圈12，当每个针织正面线圈组中的针织反面线圈12为多个时，这些针织反面线圈12是连续排列的，即相邻的两个针织反面线圈12之间没有平直的浮线。
本发明的三维卷曲纱线由于没有平直的浮线，而是由多外针织线圈紧密排列而成，线圈密集，屈曲程度高，并且针织正面线圈11的屈曲方向与针织反面线圈12的屈曲方向不同，因此立体度好、蓬松性优良。
参见图1，图1仅示出针织正面线圈组只包括一个针织正面线圈11和针织反面线圈组只包括一个针织反面线圈12的情形，则三维卷曲纱线由一个针织正面线圈11和一个针织反面线圈12交替且连续排列而成。在另外一些实施例中，三维卷曲纱线可以由2个针织正面线圈11和一个针织反面线圈12交替且连续排列而成，或者由1个针织正面线圈11和3个针织反面线圈12交替且连续排列而成，或者由3个针织正面线圈11和4个针织反面线圈12交替且连续排列而成，等等。总之每个针织正面线圈组中针织正面线圈11数量以及每个针织反面线圈组中针织反面线圈12数量不作具体限定，可以根据设计需要而适当增加或减少。
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的原料优选为热塑性纱线，以方便热定型。举例来说，本发明的三维卷曲纱线的原料为聚乳酸纱线，聚乳酸纱线的线密度可以在50D-1200D范围内，聚乳酸纱线的横截面形状可以是圆形、椭圆形、中空环形或者异形截面等。聚乳酸纤维是以富含淀粉的草本类植物(如玉米、木薯)为原料，先经糖化、发酵、提纯、聚合等生物方法生成聚乳酸，再通过熔融纺丝制成。聚乳酸原料来源丰富，生产过程环保无毒，且相关产品废弃后可降解为二氧化碳和水，对环境无害，是一种新型绿色纤维。聚乳酸纤维不仅具有环境相容和可生物降解的天然特性，聚乳酸纱线制成的面料还具有保暖性好、阻燃性佳、手感舒适、亲肤抑菌的优良特性，具有较高的经济价值。由聚乳酸纱线原料制成的生态环保的三维卷曲纱线，具有多个不同的屈曲方向，不仅手感丰满、蓬松性好、弹性高，其卷曲形态还可提高纤维加工时的抱合力以及织物的尺寸稳定性，可用于替代产量有限、价格昂贵的天然卷曲羊毛纤维。
下面介绍本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法中使用的解编脱散装置。如图2所示，该解编脱散装置包括前罗拉、后罗拉和纱筒40。其中前罗拉包括一对相互配合工作的前辊筒20，其中一个前辊筒20由一电机驱动转动，另一个前辊筒20则随着转动；后罗拉包括可转动的后辊筒30，后辊筒30可由一电机驱动而转动，纱筒40与后辊筒30配合工作而随其转动，在一些实施例中，纱筒40还可以沿其中轴线往复移动。进一步的，解编脱散装置还包括导纱器50，该导纱器50可转动地设置于前罗拉和后罗拉之间，用于引导和传输纱线。
参见图3，本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
S1，提供热塑性纱线原料，将热塑性纱线在纬编针织机上编织成具有双面针织结构的针织物，其中针织物由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列而成，其中针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈11，针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈12；双面针织结构为罗纹组织或包含罗纹组织的变化罗纹结构；
S2，将所编织的针织物进行热定型，所述热定型方式包括干热定型与湿热定型，所述热定型的温度高于纱线原料的玻璃化温度，并低于纱线原料的熔融温度；所述纱线原料为聚乳酸时，热定型温度为80℃-160℃，热定型时间为不低于20s，优选为热定型温度120℃，热定型时间为90s；
S3，将热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再将三维卷曲纱线在保持卷曲形态下均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上。
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，采用针织假编技术，即先将纱线原料纺织成针织物，热定型后再拆散得到三维卷曲的纱线。其中的针织物是双面针织结构，包含屈曲方向不同且连续排列的针织正面线圈和针织反面线圈，经热定型后再解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，三维卷曲纱线包含密集的且多种屈曲方向的线圈，弹性、蓬松性和保暖性能优良；将三维卷曲纱线卷绕到纱筒的过程中是保持卷曲形态下均匀、逐层地卷绕，以防止线圈变直。本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，操作简便、易于实现，并能制备类似高品质天然羊毛的三维卷曲纱线。
进一步的，本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，使用前述解编脱散装置将热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线并卷绕到纱筒。其中前罗拉的转动线速度大于纱筒的转动线速度，优选的，前罗拉的转动线速度大于纱筒的转动线速度的1.1-2.0倍。本发明的方法中，由于纱筒与前罗拉的转动线速度之间存在速度差，能确保纱线在卷绕到纱筒过程中不被拉直，而能保持卷曲状态；解编脱散装置中的导纱器50不仅能引导纱线传输，还能通过本身的转动将纱线及时喂入纱筒卷绕区域，以避免针织线圈被拉伸；随着纱筒沿其轴线的均匀的往复运动，可以使得带有卷曲线圈的纱线均匀的逐层卷绕到纱筒上。
以下分别介绍本发明三维卷曲纱线的制备方法的实施例。
实施例1
参见图2和图3，本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例1使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的50D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的50D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物，参见图4；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在80℃下干热定型100s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的2.0倍。
实施例2
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例2使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的75D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的75D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成1×1罗纹织物，参见图5；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在100℃下干热定型100s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.8倍。
实施例3
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例3使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的150D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的150D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成1×1罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型80s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.6倍。
实施例4
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例4使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.6倍。
实施例5
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例5使用的纱线原料为三角形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述三角形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成1×1罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下湿热定型60s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.5倍。
实施例6
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例6使用的纱线原料为十字形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述十字形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成2×1罗纹织物，参见图6；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在160℃下干热定型20s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.5倍。
实施例7
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例7使用的纱线原料为中空的300D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述中空的300D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成2×2罗纹织物，参见图7；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在100℃下干热定型100s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.5倍。
实施例8
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例8使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的450D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的450D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成1×1罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.4倍。
实施例9
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例9使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的600D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的600D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成1×1罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均
匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.3倍。
实施例10
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例10使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的900D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的900D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在140℃下干热定型60s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.3倍。
实施例11
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例11使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的1200D聚乳酸长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的1200D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在160℃下干热定型100s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度即转动线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.1倍。
实施例12
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例12使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的300D涤纶长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的300D涤纶长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的涤纶织物在160℃下湿热定型30s；
S3，将所述热定型后的涤纶织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.5倍。
实施例13
本发明的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法实施例8使用的纱线原料为圆形截面的300D莱赛尔长丝，包括以下步骤：
S1，将所述圆形截面的300D莱赛尔长丝在电脑横机上编织成满针罗纹织物；
S2，将所编织的莱塞尔织物在160℃下湿热定型30s；
S3，将所述热定型后的莱塞尔织物在解编脱散装置上解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上，其中前罗拉脱散线速度为纱筒卷绕线速度的1.5倍。
在另外一些实施例中，可进一步将制备的三维卷曲纱线切割成短纤维，，以扩展其在纺织品填充料中的用途，例如作为絮填纤维用于羽绒服、睡袋、枕芯、床垫及软玩具等。
对比例1
该对比例1为一种卷曲纱线的制备方法，其使用纱线原料为圆形截面的300D聚乳酸
长丝，按以下方法制备：
S1，将所述圆形截面的300D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成平针织物，参见图8；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在常规菠萝锭络丝机上不加张力进行拆散，再卷绕到纱筒上。
对比例2
该对比例2为一种卷曲纱线的制备方法，其使用纱线原料为圆形截面的450D聚乳酸长丝，按以下方法制备：
S1，将所述圆形截面的450D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成平针织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在常规菠萝锭络丝机上不加张力进行拆散，再卷绕到纱筒上。
对比例3
该对比例3为一种卷曲纱线的制备方法，其使用纱线原料为圆形截面的600D聚乳酸长丝，按以下方法制备：
S1，将所述圆形截面的600D聚乳酸长丝在电脑横机上编织成平针织物；
S2，将所编织的聚乳酸织物在120℃下干热定型90s；
S3，将所述热定型后的聚乳酸织物在常规菠萝锭络丝机上不加张力进行拆散，再卷绕到纱筒上。
按照标准GB/T 14338-2008《化学纤维短纤维卷曲性能试验方法》中规定的卷曲性能测试方法，以及标准FZ/T 50009.4-2019《中空涤纶短纤维蓬松性和弹性试验方法》中规定的蓬松性能测试方法，对上述实施例及对比例中所述的十一种三维卷曲纱线的卷曲度与蓬松性能进行测试，具体测试结果如下表所示：
卷曲数是指纱线单位长度内的卷曲个数，卷曲率是卷曲后纱线的缩短程度。由解编变形法制备的三维卷曲长丝的卷曲数与卷曲率与针织物的线圈长度密切相关。针织物的线圈长度越短，解编得到的三维卷曲纱线的卷曲数和卷曲率越大，反之亦然，即三维卷曲长丝的卷曲性能可通过调整针织物的线圈长度来改善。从本发明实施例与对比例的测试结果可以看出，本发明实施例的三维卷曲纱线的蓬松性能普遍优于对比例。
举例来说，本发明实施例4和对比例1的纱线原料、线密度及线圈长度相同，本发明实施例4的蓬松性为53.28％，而对比例1的蓬松性为52.72％；类似的，相同条件下，本发明实施例8的蓬松性为54.69％，而对比例2的蓬松性为52.99％；本发明实施例9的蓬松性为56.48％，而对比例3的蓬松性为53.28％。
由罗纹及其变化组织(含有罗纹的组织)织物解编得到的三维卷曲长丝的蓬松性能均优于平纹织物解编得到的三维卷曲长丝。这是由于线圈在平纹织物中的配置具有定向性，由平纹织物拆散得到的卷曲纱线仅为单向卷曲；而线圈在罗纹及其变化组织织物中的屈曲方向不同，该类织物拆散后得到的线圈形态为双向卷曲，立体度更高。
以上仅为发明实施方式的优选实施方式而已，并不用于限制发明实施方式，对于本领域的技术人员来说，发明实施方式可以有各种更改和变化。凡在发明权利要求的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在发明权利要求的保护范围之内。
Claims (13)
- 一种三维卷曲纱线，其特征在于，所述三维卷曲纱线由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列，且连续排列而成，形成屈曲方向不同的三维卷曲形态，其中所述针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈。
- 如权利要求1所述的三维卷曲纱线，其特征在于，所述针织正面线圈组包括1-3个针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括1-3个针织反面线圈。
- 如权利要求1或2所述的三维卷曲纱线，其特征在于，所述三维卷曲纱线为热塑性纱线。
- 如权利要求3所述的三维卷曲纱线，其特征在于，所述三维卷曲纱线为聚乳酸纱线，所述聚乳酸纱线的线密度为50D-1200D。
- 一种三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：S1，提供热塑性纱线原料，将所述热塑性纱线在纬编针织机上编织成具有双面针织结构的针织物，其中所述针织物由针织正面线圈组和针织反面线圈组交替排列而成，其中所述针织正面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织正面线圈，所述针织反面线圈组包括一个或者多个连续排列的针织反面线圈；S2，将所编织的针织物进行热定型；S3，将所述热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线，再将三维卷曲纱线在保持卷曲形态下均匀、逐层地卷绕到纱筒上。
- 根据权利要求5所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述双面针织结构为罗纹组织或包含罗纹组织的针织结构。
- 根据权利要求5所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述热定型方式包括干热定型与湿热定型，所述热定型的温度高于纱线原料的玻璃化温度，并低于纱线原料的熔融温度。
- 根据权利要求5所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述纱线原料为聚乳酸，热定型温度为80℃-160℃，热定型时间为不低于20s。
- 根据权利要求8所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述热定型温度为120℃，热定型时间为90s。
- 根据权利要求5-9任一项所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S3，中，使用一解编脱散装置将所述热定型后的针织物解编脱散成三维卷曲纱线并卷绕，所述解编脱散装置包括前罗拉、后罗拉以及与所述后罗拉配合工作的纱筒，从已热定型后的针 织物解编出纱线，纱线依次经过所述前罗拉、后罗拉，并卷绕到纱筒，其中所述前罗拉的转动线速度大于纱筒的转动线速度。
- 根据权利要求10所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述前罗拉的转动线速度大于后罗拉的转动线速度的1.1-2.0倍。
- 根据权利要求10所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，所述解编脱散装置还包括设置于所述前罗拉和所述后罗拉之间的可转动的导纱器，所述导纱器用于引导和传输纱线。
- 根据权利要求5-9任一项所述的三维卷曲纱线的制备方法，其特征在于，还包括将制备的三维卷曲纱线切割成短纤维步骤。
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