EP0098544A2 - Verfahren zur Antifilzbehandlung von Keratinfasern, eine basische, durch ein Metallsalz katalysierte Oxydation beinhaltend und auf diese Weise erhaltene Fasern - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Antifilzbehandlung von Keratinfasern, eine basische, durch ein Metallsalz katalysierte Oxydation beinhaltend und auf diese Weise erhaltene Fasern Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0098544A2
EP0098544A2 EP83106432A EP83106432A EP0098544A2 EP 0098544 A2 EP0098544 A2 EP 0098544A2 EP 83106432 A EP83106432 A EP 83106432A EP 83106432 A EP83106432 A EP 83106432A EP 0098544 A2 EP0098544 A2 EP 0098544A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
bath
purified water
rinsed
treated
salts
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP83106432A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0098544B1 (de
EP0098544A3 (en
Inventor
Pierre Prevel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
NORMANDE DE RECHERCHE ET DE PARTICIPATION Ste
Original Assignee
NORMANDE DE RECHERCHE ET DE PARTICIPATION Ste
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by NORMANDE DE RECHERCHE ET DE PARTICIPATION Ste filed Critical NORMANDE DE RECHERCHE ET DE PARTICIPATION Ste
Priority to AT83106432T priority Critical patent/ATE26136T1/de
Publication of EP0098544A2 publication Critical patent/EP0098544A2/de
Publication of EP0098544A3 publication Critical patent/EP0098544A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0098544B1 publication Critical patent/EP0098544B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/192Polycarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/50Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/188Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/325Amines
    • D06M13/342Amino-carboxylic acids; Betaines; Aminosulfonic acids; Sulfo-betaines

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for the anti-felting treatment of undyed keratin fibers, of any origin, whatever the stage of preparation of the material, the aforementioned process comprising a basic oxidation catalyzed by a metal salt.
  • Certain processes are based on the chlorination of keratin fibers using chlorinated organic compounds and in the presence of metal salt, in particular of alkali metals, but the fibers thus treated have a rougher and less pleasant feel.
  • compositions comprising the combination of cationic compounds, especially quaternary ammonium compounds and surfactants.
  • compositions comprising prepolymers subsequently polymerized on the fibers, or alternatively the fixing on the fiber of resins of the cationic type.
  • the aforementioned methods have the drawback either of being too specific to the type of fibers treated, or of modifying the feel too far from the natural feel of the fiber, and more often than not being very expensive due to the ingredients used or the duration and complexity of the treatment.
  • the subject of the invention is an anti-felting process which respects as much as possible the structure of the treated keratin fiber, and largely preserves its initial qualities of feel, which is very much sought after by users.
  • the invention also relates to the implementation of a simple, rapid anti-felting process, and of a very general application to the various types of keratin fibers.
  • the invention finally relates to the treated keratin material, having remarkable anti-felting properties, while retaining qualities of touch very close to those of natural keratin material.
  • the process of the invention essentially consists in treating a keratin fiber in an aqueous medium with a very small quantity of a sufficiently soluble salt of a polyvalent metal, in the presence of a weak organic acid and under heat, so as to fix on the fiber a thin and continuous layer of the metal salt, to treat the fiber thus coated by heating in an aqueous oxidizing bath in the presence of an organic base, the fiber then being washed appropriately, and passed through an acid bath before wring it out and dry it.
  • the metal salt distributed in a thin layer around the keratin fiber has a catalytic action according to which, in basic oxidizing medium, would produce a surface modification of the fiber, with opening of the bridges of sulfur of the keratin and a partial rearrangement of the structure comprising bridges of sulfur and nitrogen.
  • the treatment is carried out according to the following stages:
  • the material is cold-wetted, previously dry-pressed, with purified water containing a detersive agent, and after the addition of a sequestering agent of metal ions, and possibly an alkaline phosphate if the material is very dirty, washing is carried out at a temperature of 40 to 55 ° C with circulation of the bath for a sufficient period of time to obtain a material free of its natural or foreign impurities, after which the bath is removed and the material is rinsed with water. purified water.
  • the material thus obtained is treated with a purified water bath containing per 100 kg of material, 0.4 to 1.6 gram molecule and preferably 0.6 to 1.2 gram molecule of a soluble salt of a metal. at several valences, and after having acidified the bath with an organic acid until a pH of 3 to 4 is obtained, it is slowly heated to a temperature of 60 to 70 ° C. which is maintained with circulation of the bath for a sufficient period of time to obtain a homogeneous fixation of the metal salt on the fiber, the bath then being removed and the material rinsed with purified water.
  • the rinsed material thus obtained is treated with a bath of purified water in the presence of an oxidizing agent which does not introduce metal ions, and of an organic low, to obtain a pH of 8.5 to 9, and the bath is heated to a temperature below 50 ° C, preferably to a temperature of about 45 ° C, while maintaining the pH in the aforementioned range, the bath then being discharged and the material rinsed with purified water cold.
  • the rinsed material thus obtained is treated with a purified water bath containing a reducing agent which does not introduce a metal ion, and a sequestering agent, preferably hot at a temperature below 50 ° C., the bath then being evacuated and the material rinsed with purified water.
  • the material thus obtained is treated with a purified water bath containing an organic acid until a pH of approximately 3 is obtained, with circulation for a period of time sufficient to obtain a homogeneous distribution of the acid. , the material then being optionally wrung and dried.
  • purified water preferably deionized or bipermuted water, and in any case it must have a hydrotimetric degree lower than 15 French hydrotimetric degree.
  • the keratin raw material is used in a form which is sufficiently dry pressed to avoid the preferential paths of circulation of the bath in the mass.
  • the detergent agent is used is preferably nonionic detergent such as an alkylene oxide condensate of C 2 to c 4 of a molecule of an aliphatic compound C s to C 30, such as a condensate 5 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide and a C 10 to C 15 aliphatic alcohol, or a similar detergent, in an amount of about 1 to 2 g / liter of bath.
  • nonionic detergent such as an alkylene oxide condensate of C 2 to c 4 of a molecule of an aliphatic compound C s to C 30, such as a condensate 5 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide and a C 10 to C 15 aliphatic alcohol, or a similar detergent, in an amount of about 1 to 2 g / liter of bath.
  • ethylenediamine compounds or analogous compounds are used in particular, and preferably ethylene diaminotetracetic acid or EDTA, in an amount of approximately 1 to 2 g / liter of bath.
  • trisodium phosphate is preferably used in an amount of about 0.5 to 1 g / liter of bath.
  • any other ingredient or any other condition making it possible to obtain a similar result that is to say a material free of its natural or foreign impurities and in particular metal salts, can be used.
  • cupric or ferrous salts, aluminum, titanium or chromium salts are used as the salt of a metal with several valencies sufficiently soluble in water at the treatment temperature.
  • cupric salts are used, in particular copper sulphate because of its high solubility and its low cost.
  • the amount of copper used in the form of cupric salt corresponds to 0.0236-0.095% and preferably to 0.035-0.075% by weight of copper relative to the weight of keratin fibers.
  • ferrous salts, aluminum salts, titanium salts and chloride salts having sufficient solubility under the conditions of the bath used also give good results.
  • Aluminum salts, sulfate, chloride and nitrate among ferrous salts chloride, nitrate and sulfate, among titanium salts trichloride and oxalate, among chromium salts C1 2 Cr chloride, nitrate, oxalate and acetate.
  • an organic acid such as acetic acid, formic acid, citric acid or the like is used, acetic acid being preferred.
  • the temperature rise to 60 to 70 ° C. is carried out slowly with circulation of the bath so as to obtain the most homogeneous distribution possible, and the temperature is then maintained, still with circulation of the bath, until the fixing of the metal salt on the fiber is sufficient, which is possibly controlled by the evolution of the coloration of the bath or by any other assay method, in particular by potentiometry.
  • hydrogen peroxide at 130 volumes is preferably used in an amount necessary to obtain a bath corresponding to a content of 2 to 3 and preferably 2.5 volumes of oxygenated water, that is to say 6 at 9 and preferably approximately 7.6 g of hydrogen peroxide per liter, but it is also possible to use any oxidant with an equivalent oxidizing system which does not introduce metal ions into the bath.
  • organic base a C 2 -C 4 alkanolamine such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine is preferably used, the latter giving excellent results.
  • the pH is maintained in the range of 8.5 to 9 by addition of additional amounts of the organic base. Heating to the temperature of 45 to 50 ° C, during which a moderate release of oxygen takes place, is maintained for a period of time of 1 hour 30 to 2 hours for a total load of around 1000 kg with a bath ratio of around
  • a reducing agent an alkaline hydrosulphite such as sodium hydrosulphite is preferably used, and as EDTA sequestering agent, it being understood that any other reducing agent which does not introduce metal ions or any other metal ion sequestering agent can also suit.
  • the process of the invention is carried out in the tank in an appropriate dyeing installation, preferably made of stainless steel, provided with good circulation of the bath with the possibility of reversing the circulation, avoiding too violent circulation as well as a pressing too powerful of the material:
  • keratin fiber one can use most varied animal fibers, in particular wool, hair of rabbit, camel, fabrics of cashmere, alpaca, etc ...
  • the fibers used are undyed fibers, which may be either unbleached or naturally colored. In the latter case, the original shade is modified: it is generally more or less lightened. The ecru are practically unchanged.
  • the treatment can be carried out on fibers in fluff or spun, woven or knitted.
  • the bath ratios that is to say "treated material: bath” can vary widely from 1: 5 to 1:20 but preferably a bath ratio of 1 : 8 to 1 is used. : 15.
  • the method of the invention makes it possible to obtain a natural fiber for which the felting is considerably reduced, and whose touch qualities remain practically unchanged.
  • the material obtained after the last treatment in acid bath can be dyed directly, or wrung out, dried and stored.
  • a stainless steel pump circulation apparatus having a useful capacity of approximately 1000 liters
  • 100 kg of dry pressed material are loaded into the basket of the apparatus, it is wetted at the temperature of 20 ° C. with purified water, and the bath is completed up to 900 liters of purified water, adding 1.2 kg of the reaction product of a C12 primary alkanol with 10 molecules of ethylene oxide, as well as 0 , 9 kg of a 40% solution of ethylene diaminotetracetic acid or EDTA and 0.450 kg of trisodium phosphate.
  • the bath is heated to the temperature of 40 to 45 ° C and maintained with circulation at this temperature for a period of time of approximately 30 minutes.
  • the bath is then evacuated and the material is thoroughly rinsed with purified water. This washing operation is repeated several times if necessary until a material free of its impurities is obtained.
  • a bath is prepared with purified water to which is added 100 g of copper sulphate (0.626 molecule) previously dissolved in a sufficient quantity of hot water. 900 g of concentrated acetic acid are then added, which makes it possible to obtain a pH of approximately 3-4, the bath is heated, with circulation, to the temperature of 70 ° over a period of 15 minutes, and the bath is maintained at this temperature for about 1 hour. The bath is drained and the material is rinsed with cold purified water.
  • the bath is prepared with purified water to which 18 liters of hydrogen peroxide at 130 volumes are added, so as to obtain approximately 900 liters of bath at approximately 2.5 volumes. Then added 4.5 kg of triethanolamine. The bath is heated to the temperature of 45 ° C in a period of about 15 minutes, with circulation, and the bath is maintained at this temperature for 2 hours, while adjusting the pH from 8.5 to 9 by possible additions of triethanolamine. A weak and regular release of oxygen is observed, the bath remaining practically colorless.
  • the bath is drained and the material is thoroughly rinsed with cold purified water.
  • the material is washed with a bath consisting of 900 liters of purified water containing 1.8 kg of sodium hydrosulfite and 0.450 kg of ethylenediaminotetraacetic acid in 40% aqueous solution.
  • the bath is heated to the temperature of 40 ° C, with circulation, and maintained at this temperature for 30 minutes.
  • the bath is drained and the material is thoroughly rinsed with cold purified water.
  • the material thus rinsed is treated with a bath consisting of 900 liters of purified water containing 0.9 kg of concentrated acetic acid, and this with circulation of the bath for 15 minutes. The bath is then discharged, the material is wrung and dried.
  • the treatment is carried out under the same conditions as those indicated in Example 1, except that the etching is carried out with an amount of 1.232 mole of copper sulphate (200 g) per 100 kg of rabbit hair, and only in the oxidation stage in basic medium, 5.4 kg of triethanolamine is used for 900 liters of bath.
  • Examples 1 and 2 are repeated except that copper sulphate is replaced respectively by iron chloride II, aluminum sulphate, titanium trichloride and chromium II chloride. Good results are also obtained.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Detergent Compositions (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP83106432A 1982-07-07 1983-07-01 Verfahren zur Antifilzbehandlung von Keratinfasern, eine basische, durch ein Metallsalz katalysierte Oxydation beinhaltend und auf diese Weise erhaltene Fasern Expired EP0098544B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT83106432T ATE26136T1 (de) 1982-07-07 1983-07-01 Verfahren zur antifilzbehandlung von keratinfasern, eine basische, durch ein metallsalz katalysierte oxydation beinhaltend und auf diese weise erhaltene fasern.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8211950 1982-07-07
FR8211950A FR2529921A1 (fr) 1982-07-07 1982-07-07 Procede de traitement anti-feutrage de fibres keratiniques, comprenant une oxydation basique catalysee par un sel metallique, et fibres ainsi obtenues

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0098544A2 true EP0098544A2 (de) 1984-01-18
EP0098544A3 EP0098544A3 (en) 1984-03-07
EP0098544B1 EP0098544B1 (de) 1987-03-25

Family

ID=9275779

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP83106432A Expired EP0098544B1 (de) 1982-07-07 1983-07-01 Verfahren zur Antifilzbehandlung von Keratinfasern, eine basische, durch ein Metallsalz katalysierte Oxydation beinhaltend und auf diese Weise erhaltene Fasern

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US4492585A (de)
EP (1) EP0098544B1 (de)
JP (1) JPS5976968A (de)
AT (1) ATE26136T1 (de)
CA (1) CA1193055A (de)
DE (1) DE3370498D1 (de)
FR (1) FR2529921A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5490865A (en) * 1994-07-25 1996-02-13 Scheiwiller; Jurg P. Method of treating and dyeing animal fibers
US6879615B2 (en) * 2000-01-19 2005-04-12 Joseph Reid Henrichs FCSEL that frequency doubles its output emissions using sum-frequency generation
JP6055694B2 (ja) * 2013-02-19 2016-12-27 丸三綿業株式会社 カシミヤ原毛繊維の洗浄方法
CN113005772A (zh) * 2021-02-21 2021-06-22 浙江理工大学 用于天然彩色棉产品的功能维护剂及其应用

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE473751A (de) * 1946-07-24
US2914374A (en) * 1954-03-24 1959-11-24 Harris Res Lab Inc Bleaching of keratinous fibrous material
US3156654A (en) * 1961-06-19 1964-11-10 Shell Oil Co Bleaching
FR1435360A (fr) * 1965-05-07 1966-04-15 Prec Processes Textiles Ltd Procédé continu pour rendre la laine résistante au rétrécissement à l'aide d'un agent oxydant exempt d'halogènes
US3632295A (en) * 1969-04-29 1972-01-04 Gillette Co Method of bleaching hair or wool

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0098544B1 (de) 1987-03-25
DE3370498D1 (en) 1987-04-30
EP0098544A3 (en) 1984-03-07
US4492585A (en) 1985-01-08
FR2529921B1 (de) 1985-05-17
ATE26136T1 (de) 1987-04-15
FR2529921A1 (fr) 1984-01-13
CA1193055A (fr) 1985-09-10
JPS5976968A (ja) 1984-05-02

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