EP0321939B1 - Procédé pour le traitement de mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps par exemple de cheveux humains et dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé - Google Patents

Procédé pour le traitement de mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps par exemple de cheveux humains et dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0321939B1
EP0321939B1 EP88121358A EP88121358A EP0321939B1 EP 0321939 B1 EP0321939 B1 EP 0321939B1 EP 88121358 A EP88121358 A EP 88121358A EP 88121358 A EP88121358 A EP 88121358A EP 0321939 B1 EP0321939 B1 EP 0321939B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
deformation
wrapping body
treatment
data
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP88121358A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0321939A3 (fr
EP0321939A2 (fr
Inventor
Annette Dr. Schwan
Rupert Dr. Zang
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Deutschland GmbH
Original Assignee
Wella GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Wella GmbH filed Critical Wella GmbH
Priority to AT88121358T priority Critical patent/ATE88866T1/de
Publication of EP0321939A2 publication Critical patent/EP0321939A2/fr
Publication of EP0321939A3 publication Critical patent/EP0321939A3/fr
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Publication of EP0321939B1 publication Critical patent/EP0321939B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method according to the preamble of claim 1 and an apparatus for carrying out the method according to the preamble of claim 4.
  • a z. B. Permanent deformation of human hair is based on two processes: a two-step chemical process, the reduction and oxidation of cystine bonds in the hair, and a physical process, the deformation.
  • both processes can run completely isolated from each other, they take place with permanent wave deformation e.g. T. simultaneously, e.g. T. also one after the other. This makes the permanent wave process a difficult process to analyze.
  • JP-B-61-042 822 an electrical device is used with which the redox potential of the reducing agent, which decreases during the corrugation, is measured. It is wrongly assumed that these measurements correlate directly with the result of the wave on the hair. Measurement results of the type mentioned depend only on formulation parameters of the wave agent used and do not deal with the individual diversity of the treated hair. However, this is absolutely necessary in order to achieve a good wave result.
  • the applicant was able to determine that the wave result in a perm is primarily determined by the softening and hardening behavior of an individual hair, and not by the achievement of a certain degree of reduction in the hair. So there are hair qualities that need a relatively strong reduction in order to achieve a softening that is conducive to shaping, and other hair qualities that only need to be reduced slightly in order to maintain the same state of softening.
  • Devices that detect the chemical processes on the hair are less suitable for predicting the permanent wave result on the hair.
  • JP-B-62-29744 led to the proposal of a device that only measures the bending softening of a semicircular bent hair bundle. It allows the softening in laboratory tests To determine the force of permanent wave agents and to relate them to each other. The different hair structure of each person and the associated differently strong reaction is not taken into account. The device cannot be used in hairdressing.
  • a device which indicates the optimal time of the treatment duration of the permed hair.
  • some hair that serves as a reference must be removed from the scalp hair and wound onto a measuring cell.
  • the measuring cell serves as a pressure sensor and consists of thin-walled, elastic material and is part of a hydraulic system.
  • the hydraulic fluid is electrically conductive and is manually brought up to a certain height depending on the quality of the hair. An overflow of the hydraulic fluid as a result of a contraction of the hair is determined electrically and signaled as the supposedly optimal time, the hair on the measuring cell being kept at the same temperature as the hair on the head.
  • a major disadvantage of such a device is the high measurement inaccuracy, due to the comparison temperature at the measuring cell which cannot be exactly maintained, due to various physical properties between the measuring cell and the winding bodies on the hair on the head, and due to a manual level adjustment of the hydraulic fluid. By presetting the level, only a single value is specified, which is subjectively determined, which also makes it unsuitable for practical use.
  • Another disadvantage is the fact that the scalp hair used for the measurement must be separated from the head.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a method which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above and thereby enables an optimal hair shaping treatment process, so that this results in undamaged, wavy hair, in particular in the case of a permanent hair shaping treatment.
  • a device for performing the method is to be created.
  • the measurement method which is optimized for practical conditions is carried out on curved body on a body, since the waving process consists of a complex of sub-processes such as chemical hair reduction, hair bending, hair softening, hair contraction and relaxation. composed. This allows the physical processes to be observed during a wave treatment on the hair under practical conditions.
  • the hair can in the usual manner, e.g. B. are attached by a rubber strap.
  • the wave agent e.g. B. water, but preferably a reducing agent, e.g. B. thioglycolic acid, a salt or ester of thioglycolic acid, cysteine or sulfite-containing waving agent, applied to the hair.
  • the optimal exposure time which is between 5 and 60 minutes depending on the quality of the hair and permanent waving agent and the application temperature and which is indicated by the device, the hair is rinsed with water in the usual way (even aqueous preparations of conditioning agents can be used instead of water for Rinsing the corrugating agent can be used).
  • the hair is cleaned in the usual form with a fixative such as.
  • a fixative such as.
  • an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium or sodium bromate oxidatively aftertreated and thus the corrugation process ended.
  • the hair can be unwound from the curler for drying and styling, or can preferably be dried on the curler.
  • the procedure is designed in such a way that the processes, not as is the case e.g. B. in the permanent wave method, can be observed on straight, pre-stretched hair, but in the wound, bent state, as is the case in practice.
  • Hair bundles of different weights and defined amounts of wave or reducing agent can also be used in this method, which was not possible with tensile testers in the previously known single-fiber measuring methods. In the latter method, labor-intensive hair diameter determinations also had to be carried out, which are now eliminated.
  • the method has the advantage that a curl can be achieved even with the most varied hair qualities, the stability and durability of which can be predetermined using a wide variety of hair shaping treatment agents or else the degree of curling thereof.
  • the quality of a perm can thus be directly related to the previously observed wave process on the same hair. This has not been possible until now because new hair material had to be used to establish correlations between the softening / hardening behavior of hair, its wave behavior and its degree of damage. Due to the large number of hair qualities, this led to extensive tests, which are now no longer necessary.
  • index method which as such can also be used directly in vivo on the hair of human subjects.
  • a reference winder the usual winder has the same deformation properties
  • This is preferably done by rinsing the hair in water, aqueous intermediate treatment agents or by applying the oxidizing fixative.
  • the progress of the fixing process and the hardening process of the hair can also be indicated by the reference winder if necessary.
  • a mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic deformation detection method can be used for displaying the deformation of the winding body in an optional combination.
  • the optimal course of treatment and thus the typical deformation characteristics are based - as could be determined by the invention - essentially on the swelling and contraction behavior and the flow area of the hair.
  • the latter is a characteristic of individual hair quality.
  • the waving agent comes into contact with the hair, it begins to swell and contract slightly during the waving process.
  • the swelling pressure exerts radial forces on the winding former. Since the hair is chemically reduced and thus softened at the same time, the radially acting forces reach a maximum in the time range in which the hair merges into the flow area. This is indicated by a decrease in the radial forces on the winding body. Deformation of the hair far beyond the flow area is advantageously avoided, since otherwise irreversible changes in the hair structure result.
  • the typical deformation characteristic of the winding body is further characterized in that the hair swells again in the rinsing step connected to the wave treatment. This is indicated by increasing radial forces.
  • the completion of the entire corrugation process by a final treatment with oxidizing fixative not only causes the relocation of the hair in its natural chemical state, but also causes swelling. This is detected on the winding body by a decrease in the radial forces. Since the durability of hair shaping, e.g. B. with a perm, depending on the degree of reoxidation and minimizing the residual swelling of the hair, the required fixing time can be displayed with the inventive method.
  • the method according to the invention can also be used for the automatic detection of a plurality of deformation characteristics, for which purpose deformation measurement values are formed via a deformation sensor, which are fed to a measurement value processing device which compares at least one predetermined measurement value characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match.
  • a measurement value processing device which compares at least one predetermined measurement value characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match.
  • the hairdresser is automatically indicated or signaled when a treatment step (e.g. the treatment with corrugated agent) has been optimally completed.
  • a treatment step e.g. the treatment with corrugated agent
  • the degree of treatment can also be predetermined if, for. B. a certain degree of undulation or undulation is to be achieved.
  • the method according to the invention is suitable for a wide variety of hair shaping processes, e.g. B. in permanent hair shaping or a water wave.
  • a device according to the characterizing part of claim 4 is provided for carrying out the method according to the invention.
  • winding body reversibly stores the deformations, for. B. in the form of a compression spring
  • the physical processes in a hair shaping treatment can also be detected beyond the yield point.
  • a equipped with a spring action bobbin z. B. realize that the body is designed like a hollow cylinder and is provided with at least one slot.
  • an appropriate sensor can be arranged in the winding body.
  • the winding body is provided with an appropriate device, for. B. in the form of axial projections for a rubber tab connection.
  • the hair curlers in practice up to 50 pieces are provided with the same deformation properties as the bobbin with one device to detect the deformation.
  • the winding body has the function of a reference winder.
  • a measured value processing device is integrated in the winding body, preferably with an integrated energy supply.
  • an integrated signal generator or a display for. B. is created by an acoustic signal, a one-piece device for performing the method, which is particularly advantageously suitable as a reference winder for practice.
  • the winding body can also be provided with a signal or measured value line to a separate display or measured value processing device.
  • the measured values can advantageously be transmitted wirelessly, e.g. B. to a measured value processing device with an optical and acoustic display.
  • a piezo film can be provided as an inexpensive pressure sensor.
  • the basic method is shown in FIG. 1.
  • the deformations of the body are measured in a first step after the hair shaping process has started (measurement).
  • the deformation measured values are processed (save) and in a third step at least one predefined curve characteristic is compared with the measured values (measured value characteristic). If there is a match between the characteristics, the 4th step is a corresponding display (e.g. acoustically and / or optically).
  • the optimal treatment times can be displayed, e.g. B. ending the actual hair shaping and the subsequent fixing process.
  • FIG. 2 shows a basic device 1 for carrying out the method according to the invention. After the hair 2 is wound and fixed on a body 3, the deformations of the body 3 resulting during a hair shaping process are detected by a sensor 30.
  • the measured measured deformation values are fed via line 5 to a measured value processing device 7.
  • a curve characteristic is input into the measured value processing device 7, which compares the entered characteristics with the measured values and visually and / or acoustically indicates a match of the characteristics by means of a display 6.
  • Fig. 3 shows a time course t of the deformation p of the body - z. B. according to a body 3, 3 ', 3 ⁇ , 3 ′′′ according to Figures 4 to 12 - in a permanent hair styling process.
  • the curve shape A (solid line) represents a treatment process with over-corrugation; the curve B (dashed line), however, an optimal treatment process, which results in a practically undamaged, permanently waved hair.
  • the curve A is described in more detail below.
  • the stated fair values are only rough guidelines.
  • the time specified for area C 10 min. counts as the total time for winding further bobbins (approx. 40 pieces) for a complete hair treatment.
  • the hair shaping process begins with a waving agent.
  • the body 3 is increasingly deformed in the region D.
  • the maximum is then reached in area E.
  • area F In the further course of the hair shaping process in area F, the body 3 is deformed in a decreasing manner.
  • the end of the wave treatment at time t1 is determined by rinsing the hair 2 with water.
  • the wave quality of the hair 2 is determined.
  • This time t 1 was previously determined by - usually several times - unwinding a particular hair curler and by manually checking the tension of the curl.
  • This manual process is labor intensive and requires a lot of attention, as this checking is a approach to a certain wave quality and the checking itself is subjective. For this reason, the wave qualities can vary from case to case - also due to different hair properties.
  • a too long wave treatment time t1 - t0 or area D - E - F leads to overwaving and hair damage.
  • the fixation treatment begins in an area H. It becomes clear that the body deformation then increases slightly and then stagnates.
  • the curve shape B is identical in the areas CD. From time t3 on there is a water rinse in area E which ends at time t4. The fixation treatment then begins, which extends over an area F - G - H.
  • the optimal end of wave treatment t3 is approximately in the range E.
  • the characteristic here is that the curve shape B assumes a maximum value (turning point) in this area E.
  • This measured value characteristic (eg first turning point or reaching a certain slope angle between two measuring times) is stored in a measured value processing device and is compared with the measured values. If the values match, this is indicated accordingly.
  • a corresponding measured value characteristic can be specified, in accordance with a targeted window-like measured value acquisition, in which a time frame can also be specified for the purpose of measurement reliability.
  • FIGS. 4-6 A first embodiment of a winding body 3 is shown in FIGS. 4-6.
  • the winding body 3 is designed like a hollow cylinder, for. B. made of aluminum, and has as a device 4 for detecting the winding body deformation two diametrically opposite slots 9 on one side, whereby a spring action of the body 3 is achieved.
  • a strain gauge R1 ⁇ 4 is attached to the body 3 as a deformation sensor 30.
  • the deformations starting from the coiled strand of hair 2 on the body 3 in the area of the measuring strip R 1 are amplified and can be detected precisely by means of a Wheatstone bridge 10 (FIG. 6).
  • FIG. 5 An axial view of the winding body 3 on the part of the open slots 9 is shown in FIG. 5, the wound strand of hair 2 being only indicated.
  • FIG. 7 A second embodiment of a winding body 3 'using a hydraulic measured value acquisition is shown in Fig. 7.
  • the body 3 ' is designed like a hollow cylinder and is provided with a continuous slot 9' which, like the slots 9 according to FIG. 7, serves for reversible deformations of the body 3 '.
  • liquid container 11 In the cavity of the bobbin 3 'serving as a sensor 31 liquid container 11 is arranged and formed such that the deformation of the body 3' emanating from the strand of hair a corresponding
  • a winding body 3 ⁇ is shown in FIG. 9 as a third exemplary embodiment, in which a magnet 18 and an electric coil 19 are arranged diametrically opposite in the interior as a sensor 32 such that changes in deformation of the body 3 ⁇ occur affect as changes in inductance and are detected in terms of frequency via an electrical resonant circuit.
  • a device 14 is used to hold the coiled hair by means of an elastic holding band 15, with axial projections 16, 17 being provided for fastening the band 15.
  • a bobbin 3 ′′′ with an integrated power supply 23, measured value processing device 7 and a wireless transmitter 24 is shown in FIG. 11.
  • the power supply or battery 23 is connected to the device 7 and the transmitter 24 by a line 25.
  • the sensor 32 is connected to the device 7 via a line 26.
  • the device 7 is designed in such a way that the deformation change measured values of the sensor 32 are also detected.
  • the transmitter 24 is controlled via a line 27.
  • An antenna line 28 is connected to the metal body 3 ′′′ as an antenna.
  • the magnet 18 and the coil 19 can be combined as one structural unit by means of a cylindrical sleeve part 19 A in order to simplify assembly.
  • the sensor 32 and further elements 7, 23, 24 can be made liquid-tight by suitable sealing measures.
  • a winding body 3 ′′′ with a piezo film sensor 33 is shown in FIGS. 13 and 14.
  • the film 33 arranged on the outside of the body 3 diese it can also advantageously be glued to the inside of the body 3 ′′′, as a result of which the film 33 is protected.

Landscapes

  • Measurement Of The Respiration, Hearing Ability, Form, And Blood Characteristics Of Living Organisms (AREA)
  • Investigating Or Analysing Biological Materials (AREA)
  • Hair Curling (AREA)
  • Investigating Strength Of Materials By Application Of Mechanical Stress (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Procédé de traitement pour la mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps, par exemple des cheveux humains, caractérisé en ce que les déformations du corps du rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') qui proviennent du traitement de mise en forme des cheveux sont détectées et appliquées en tant que valeurs de mesure de déformation à un dispositif de traitement de valeurs de mesure (7), qui compare au moins une caractéristique de valeur de mesure prédéterminée qui correspond à un déroulement optimal du traitement à des valeurs mesurées, et affiche une concordance.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la courbe au moment de la fin (t₃) du traitement au moyen de l'agent de formation d'ondulations est prédéterminée en tant que caractéristique de valeur de mesure.
  3. Procédé selon les revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce que le moment de la fin (t₅) du traitement au moyen de l'agent de fixation est prédéterminé en tant que caractéristique de valeur de mesure.
  4. Dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre d'un procédé de traitement de mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps, par exemple de cheveux humains, caractérisé en ce que le corps du rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est muni d'un dispositif (4) pour détecter la déformation du corps, en ce que le dispositif (4) est relié à un dispositif de formation de valeurs de mesure (6A), en ce que le dispositif de formation de valeurs de mesure (6A) est relié à un dispositif de traitement de valeurs de mesure (7), en ce que le dispositif de traitement de valeurs de mesure (7) est muni d'au moins une mémoire de valeur de mesure caractéristique (7A), le dispositif de traitement de valeurs de mesure (7 comparant la valeur de mesure caractéristique mise en mémoire avec les valeurs mesurées et affichant une concordance.
  5. Dispositif selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est constitué de manière que les déformations soient mises en mémoire de façon réversible.
  6. Dispositif selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce qu'il est prévu au moins un corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') constitué au moins partiellement sous une forme élastique.
  7. Dispositif selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est constitué sous forme d'un cylindre creux muni d'au moins une fente (9, 9').
  8. Dispositif selon les revendications 4 et 7, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est muni d'un capteur (30, 31, 32, 33) détectant la déformation.
  9. Dispositif selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce qu'il est prévu un capteur (30, 31, 32, 33) destiné à un procédé de détection de déformation mécanique, optique acoustique électrique, magnétique, pneumatique ou hydraulique, ou selon une combinaison quelconque.
  10. Dispositif sel on l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 9, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est muni d'un dispositif (14) pour maintenir les cheveux (2) à l'état enroulé.
  11. Dispositif selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 10 caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') présente les mêmes propriété de déformation que les autres corps de rouleaux utilisés pour la formation de l'ondulation des cheveux.
  12. Dispositif sel on l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 11, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif de traitement de valeurs de mesure (7) est intégré dans le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''').
  13. Dispositif selon la revendication 12, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est muni d'une alimentation en énergie (23).
  14. Dispositif selon la revendication 12 et/ou 13, caractérisé en ce que le corps de rouleau (3, 3', 3'', 3''') est muni d'un émetteur (24) pour la transmission sans fil des valeurs de mesure.
  15. Dispositif selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce qu'une feuille piézo-électrique est prévue en tant que capteur (33).
EP88121358A 1987-12-23 1988-12-21 Procédé pour le traitement de mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps par exemple de cheveux humains et dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé Expired - Lifetime EP0321939B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT88121358T ATE88866T1 (de) 1987-12-23 1988-12-21 Verfahren zur haarverformungsbehandlung von auf einem koerper aufgewickeltem haar, z.b. von menschenhaar, sowie vorrichtung zur durchfuehrung des verfahrens.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19873743850 DE3743850A1 (de) 1987-12-23 1987-12-23 Verfahren zur haarverformungsbehandlung von auf einem koerper aufgewickeltem haar, z. b. von menschenhaar, sowie vorrichtung zur durchfuehrung des verfahrens
DE3743850 1987-12-23

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0321939A2 EP0321939A2 (fr) 1989-06-28
EP0321939A3 EP0321939A3 (fr) 1991-02-27
EP0321939B1 true EP0321939B1 (fr) 1993-05-05

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EP88121358A Expired - Lifetime EP0321939B1 (fr) 1987-12-23 1988-12-21 Procédé pour le traitement de mise en forme de cheveux enroulés sur un corps par exemple de cheveux humains et dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US4974447A (fr)
EP (1) EP0321939B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPH01204610A (fr)
AT (1) ATE88866T1 (fr)
CA (1) CA1308621C (fr)
DE (2) DE3743850A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2515940Y2 (ja) * 1989-12-28 1996-11-06 三菱自動車エンジニアリング株式会社 エンジンオイルレベル検出装置
US7457415B2 (en) * 1998-08-20 2008-11-25 Akikaze Technologies, Llc Secure information distribution system utilizing information segment scrambling
WO2011068718A1 (fr) * 2009-12-03 2011-06-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Procédé pour évaluer les propriétés des forces générées par la pointe de fibre

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2496206A (en) * 1947-10-28 1950-01-31 Robert E Grigsby Hair wave processing indicator
US4474193A (en) * 1982-10-18 1984-10-02 San-Ei Kagaku Co., Ltd. Method and apparatus for diagnosis of hair for permanent waving
JPS6142822A (ja) * 1984-08-06 1986-03-01 三菱電機株式会社 低誘電率銅張り絶縁皮膜の製造方法
JPS6258169A (ja) * 1985-09-06 1987-03-13 Sharp Corp パ−マネントウエ−ブ形成時間検知方法
US4635654A (en) * 1985-11-04 1987-01-13 Redken Laboratories, Inc. Method for evaluating efficacy of a hair styling product
US4845983A (en) * 1986-11-06 1989-07-11 Zellweger Uster Ag Testing apparatus for textile strands
US4801922A (en) * 1987-05-14 1989-01-31 Worrell Darhl R Low temperature alarm

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE3880806D1 (de) 1993-06-09
DE3743850A1 (de) 1989-07-06
CA1308621C (fr) 1992-10-13
ATE88866T1 (de) 1993-05-15
EP0321939A3 (fr) 1991-02-27
US4974447A (en) 1990-12-04
JPH01204610A (ja) 1989-08-17
EP0321939A2 (fr) 1989-06-28

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