EP0452607B1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0452607B1
EP0452607B1 EP90830311A EP90830311A EP0452607B1 EP 0452607 B1 EP0452607 B1 EP 0452607B1 EP 90830311 A EP90830311 A EP 90830311A EP 90830311 A EP90830311 A EP 90830311A EP 0452607 B1 EP0452607 B1 EP 0452607B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
elastomeric
fibrous component
elastomeric fibrous
machine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP90830311A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0452607A3 (en
EP0452607A2 (de
Inventor
Giorgio c/o Eurojersey S.p.A. Crespi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
EUROJERSEY SpA
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EUROJERSEY SpA
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Application filed by EUROJERSEY SpA filed Critical EUROJERSEY SpA
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Publication of EP0452607A3 publication Critical patent/EP0452607A3/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for making skin-effect elastic pile fabrics as known, for instance, from DE-A-3 213 581. According to this known method elastomeric yarn and not elastic yarn are knitted in an opposite notation such that the yarns cross each other.
  • pile knitted fabrics are usually made by raising operations, followed by a shearing operation of the raised yarns, or, alternatively, by grinding or lapping operations.
  • This making method presents the drawback that only a given portion of the pile forming yarns is sheared and, accordingly, the formed fabric will contain pile yarns of an essentially discontinuous nature.
  • the aim of the present invention is to overcome the above mentioned drawback, by providing a method for making skin effect elastic fabrics allowing very even pile fabric to be easily produced.
  • a main object of the present invention is to provide such a skin-effect fabric making method which can be easily carried out on conventional systems and machines.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide such a fabric making method which allows an improved new type of fabric to be produced at a comparatively low cost.
  • Figure 1 shows the full binding of the warp knitted fabric made by the subject method.
  • the subject method provides for making, on a conventional knitting machine for making non-run fabrics, a resilient fabric having a first not-elastomeric fibrous component, a second elastomeric fibrous component and, optionally, at least a third not elastomeric fibrous component.
  • At least a portion of the mentioned first fibrous component is introduced into the fabric by a long loose portion so as to cause the second elastomeric component to be contracted as the fabric is raised and sheared.
  • the long loose portions of the first not elastomeric component are forced so as to be advantageously arranged with an arrangement suitable for raising and shearing, or grinding, to provide a skin-effect pile fabric.
  • the subject method can be carried out on a conventional warp knitting machine having conventional latch needles or composite spring needles.
  • the first not elastomeric fibrous component is knitted into the fabric by a long loose portion
  • other components including long loose portions can be also knitted into the fabric by using suitable needle bars.
  • lighter fabrics having a thinned out pile arrangement and an even aspect can also be produced by an even partial threading of the bar used for forming the pile; for example an alternate repeat of the pile bar would provide a pile having a half density.
  • an elastomeric yarn 1 is knitted by fully threading it on the front bar, while a not elastomeric yarn 2 is fully threaded on the rear bar so as to provide long loose portions or floats on the surface of the reverse portion of the fabric.
  • the elastomeric yarn will be knitted according to a 1-0/1-2 notation on the front bar, whereas the yarn on the rear bar will be knitted according to a 1-0/ 3-4 notation, or according to a notation from 1-0/2-3 to 1-0/9-10.
  • the first fibrous component will be knitted into the fabric with a long loose portion or float.
  • the fabric can be dyed and finished by conventional methods used for making resilient finished fabrics.
  • the yarns of the first component in the knitted fabric are raised and sheared, or simply ground, in a conventional manner, so as to provide a skin-effect pile fabric.
  • the raising and shearing, or griding, steps can be carried out at any suitable time in the method, for example immediately after the knitting or after a steam processing or after the dyeing.
  • the second elastomeric component can comprise a natural material, it will usually comprise a synthetic elastomeric yarn, preferably of the bare type.
  • a suitable yarn or filament decitex can be selected in the range from 10 to 200, but it is preferable that the resilient yarn has a decitex value from 22 to 56.
  • the first not elastomeric component of the fabric that is the yarn provided for forming the skin-effect pile, in turn, can be either a natural or a synthetic yarn and, typically, it will have a decitex count from 22 to 100.
  • the elastic characteristics of the second component can be reduced or removed during the processing of the fabric, for example by a high pressure dyeing or a hot thermosetting.
  • the knitted fabric made by the subject method can be substantially used for a lot of end uses, in particular for making bath costumes, garnments in general, motor vehicle inner finishing fabrics and so on.
  • This machine having slide needles, with a fineness of 32, and two bars, is loaded with 4000 yarns for bars, with an elastomeric filament yarn of 44 dtx (e.g. Lycra, of the Du Pont de Nemours), on the front bar, and with a glossy circular Nylon 6 yarn, of a 36 filament type, on the rear bar.
  • 44 dtx e.g. Lycra, of the Du Pont de Nemours
  • Said knitting machine is set according to the following conditions:
  • the yarn "a”, on L1 comprises a 44/36 mmRK 2000 polyamide; the yarn “b” on L2 comprises a 44/1 mmRK 600 elastomer.
  • the elastomeric yarn is contracted, so as to cause a corresponding contraction of the not elastomeric component knitted on the rear bar so as to arrange it to be subjected to four passages on a raising machine and a passage on a shearing machine,or, alternatively, to one or two passages on a grinding machine, so as to provide a skin effect pile.
  • the fabric pieces have been washed in a continuous washing machine and then thermoset in a "rameuse" at 190°C so as to provide a fabric ready for the dyeing.
  • the fabric pieces have been successively dyed at 95°C in a soft-flow yet dyeing apparatus by using auxiliary chemical dyeing products as conventionally used for synthetic elastic fabrics.
  • the thus made dyed fabric has been dried at 140°C, with a width of 150 cm, the fabric having a weight of 200 grams by m with a tolerance weight of ⁇ 5%.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestricks, umfassend ein erstes Nichtelastomer-Faserelement (2) , ein zweites Elastomer-Faserelement (1) und wahlweise mindestens ein drittes Nichtelastomer-Faserelement, zur Anwendung bei einer mindestens einen vorderen Wirkstab und einen rückwärtigen Wirkstab aufweisende Ketten-Wirkmaschine, wobei das Verfahren einen Arbeitsgang vorsieht, in der mindestens ein Teil des ersten Nichtelastomer-Faserelementes in langer loser Form in das Gestrick eingebracht wird, so dass beim Auslösen des Gestrickes aus der Wirkmaschine durch die Elastizität des zweiten Elastomer-Faserelementes das erste Faserelement zusammengezogen wird, wobei sich die langen losen Bereiche des ersten Nichtelastomer-Faserelementes gezwungenermassen so anordnen, dass sie zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes aufgerauht, geschoren oder abgeschliffen werden können,
    - dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Elastomer-Faserelement auf dem vorderen Wirkstab angeordnet ist, auf dem es mit einer Notation von 1-0, 1-2 verwoben wird,
    - und dass das Nichtelastomer-Faserelement auf dem rückwärtigen Wirkstab angeordnet ist, auf dem es mit einer Notation von 1-0/2-3 bis 1-0/9-10 verwoben wird.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass nach Auslösen des Gestrickes aus der Wirkmaschine das Nichtelastomer-Faserelement in einer Aufrauhmaschine vier Aufrauhvorgängen sowie einem Schärvorgang in einer Schärmaschine unterzogen wird.
  3. Verfahren nach den Ansprüchen 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass nach Auslösen des Gestrickes aus der Wirkmaschine das Nichtelastomer-Faserelement in einer Schleifmaschine zwei Schleifvorgängen unterzogen wird.
  4. Verfahren nach einem oder mehreren der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Verfahren ferner das Waschen des Gestrickes in einer Durchlauf-Waschmaschine sowie das Wärmehärten des Gestricks in einem Spannrahmen bei 190°C umfasst, um ein für das Färben fertige Gestrick zur Verfügung zu stellen.
  5. Verfahren nach einem oder mehreren der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Verfahren das Färben des Gestrickes bei 95°C in einer Jet-Färbemaschine und das Trocknen des Gestrickes bei 140°C umfasst.
EP90830311A 1990-04-19 1990-07-06 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes Expired - Lifetime EP0452607B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT2006990 1990-04-19
IT20069A IT1239906B (it) 1990-04-19 1990-04-19 Metodo per la produzione di tessuti elastici ad effetto pelle e tessuti ottenuti mediante tale metodo

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0452607A2 EP0452607A2 (de) 1991-10-23
EP0452607A3 EP0452607A3 (en) 1992-02-12
EP0452607B1 true EP0452607B1 (de) 1996-01-17

Family

ID=11163561

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90830311A Expired - Lifetime EP0452607B1 (de) 1990-04-19 1990-07-06 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines einen Oberflächeneffekt aufweisenden elastischen Gestrickes

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0452607B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE133213T1 (de)
DE (1) DE69024946T2 (de)
DK (1) DK0452607T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2081967T3 (de)
GR (1) GR3019215T3 (de)
IT (1) IT1239906B (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2005320642A (ja) * 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp 衣料

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITUD960165A1 (it) * 1996-08-27 1996-11-27 Piave Ind Tessuti Elastici Sp Procedimento di fabbricazione di tessuto elastico e relativo tessuto
DE19859871A1 (de) * 1998-12-23 2000-06-29 Trevira Gmbh & Co Kg Wildlederartiges textiles Flächengebilde
EP2123816A1 (de) * 2008-05-23 2009-11-25 Eurojersey S.p.A. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kettengewirkten, maschenfesten elastischen Stoffes und damit gewonnenes Gewirke

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DD128498B1 (de) * 1976-11-15 1980-11-26 Helmut Irmscher Flachstrickmaschine
GB2106153B (en) * 1981-09-03 1985-04-11 Ici Plc Elastomeric knitted pile fabrics
ES2021412B3 (es) * 1987-06-19 1991-11-01 Schmidt Ursula Dorothea Procedimiento para producir una tabla de genero de terciopelo. maquina tricotadora circular de varios sistemas de realizacion.

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2005320642A (ja) * 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp 衣料

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE69024946D1 (de) 1996-02-29
ES2081967T3 (es) 1996-03-16
EP0452607A3 (en) 1992-02-12
GR3019215T3 (en) 1996-06-30
IT9020069A1 (it) 1991-10-19
IT1239906B (it) 1993-11-23
ATE133213T1 (de) 1996-02-15
DK0452607T3 (da) 1996-05-20
DE69024946T2 (de) 1996-06-27
IT9020069A0 (it) 1990-04-19
EP0452607A2 (de) 1991-10-23

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