EP0547332A1 - Tricot chaîne, métier à tricoter chaîne et procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Tricot chaîne, métier à tricoter chaîne et procédé de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0547332A1
EP0547332A1 EP92117973A EP92117973A EP0547332A1 EP 0547332 A1 EP0547332 A1 EP 0547332A1 EP 92117973 A EP92117973 A EP 92117973A EP 92117973 A EP92117973 A EP 92117973A EP 0547332 A1 EP0547332 A1 EP 0547332A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
laying
layers
warp
cloth
jacquard
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP92117973A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0547332B1 (fr
Inventor
Joachim Weis
Gerhard Bergmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH
Original Assignee
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH
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Publication date
Application filed by Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH filed Critical Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH
Publication of EP0547332A1 publication Critical patent/EP0547332A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0547332B1 publication Critical patent/EP0547332B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B27/24—Thread guide bar assemblies
    • D04B27/32—Thread guide bar assemblies with independently-movable thread guides controlled by Jacquard mechanisms

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a warp knitted fabric which has differently structured areas both in the weft direction and in the warp direction, and to a warp knitting machine and to a method for producing such a knitted fabric.
  • a warp knit which has a fabric base in tricot and a pattern by pile threads.
  • the warp knitting machine used to produce it has at least one, preferably two jacquard laying bars, which, in conjunction with a longitudinally displaceable pile board bar, ensures that the pile threads either form pile loops or are flatly integrated into the base fabric.
  • a warp-knit fabric is known from the LIBA brochure "ESJ-Electronic Sectional Jacquard", in which a fabric base in a tricot layer interacts with a pattern-forming fabric layer. This drape is through generated two laying bars, the needle pitch is twice as large as the knitting needle pitch, so that their laying needles are alternately assigned to the knitting needle lanes.
  • the patterning is carried out by the fact that one of the bars is jacquard-controlled and in this way the covering of the cloth is either offset by a needle pitch or shortened for laying the jersey by needle displacement.
  • the first alternative leads to an openwork pattern, which is undesirable for many fabrics, while the second alternative has a thread consumption which is so reduced compared to the covering, that there are considerable differences in tension in the goods.
  • a warp knitted fabric with a plastic pattern can be achieved.
  • a reason is created with a first laying bar, which works with full thread retraction.
  • the pattern formation serves two further laying rails, which work empty with a fillet feeder 1 full 1 and are supplied by a common warp beam.
  • they carry out underlays of different sizes, for example a tricot layer and a satin layer, these layers being changed so that each of these laying rails executes the same number of different layers within a repeat.
  • the invention is based on the object of specifying a warp knitted fabric which is patterned both in the weft direction and in the warp direction, the surface structure of which is determined partly by cloth layers and partly by other layers, and the pattern-forming threads of which are not exposed to inadmissible tensions even when they come from a common one Warp beam can be pulled off. Furthermore, the task is to specify a warp knitting machine and a method for producing this warp knitted fabric.
  • the pattern can be formed by more than two different surface structures, because different combinations can be formed from said group of layers.
  • Preferred embodiments result from claims 3 to 5, which enable different patterns while maintaining the underlay average length.
  • Claim 6 describes a further embodiment of the surface structure. If the pattern thread system consists of two subsystems, the threads of which are laid differently, crossovers result that are clearly distinguishable from the fabric. As a result of the cross-hairs, there is no one-sided warping of the warp knitted fabric in the pattern areas.
  • the basic thread system according to claim 7 is processed in a tricot layer with particular advantage.
  • the object is achieved by the features of claim 8.
  • two pattern-forming Jacquard-Le-racks it is possible in a particularly simple manner, taking into account the demands made (patterning in the weft and in the warp direction; common warp beam for the pattern thread system; avoiding excessive tension in the warp knitted fabric) to produce patterned warp knitted fabrics.
  • the jacquard laying bars each experience a basic offset that repeats in each repeat, which determines a surface structure of the goods.
  • the two jacquard laying bars can also be used to produce crossing thread layers of the pattern-forming threads, as is often preferred.
  • the laying needles of one jacquard laying bar can be displaced in the opposite direction to the laying needles of the other jacquard laying bar. This makes it possible, under otherwise identical conditions, to carry out the greatest possible number of different layings with jacquard needles which can only be displaced on one side and which have a higher working accuracy than layers which can be displaced on both sides. A symmetrical control of the laying needles is also possible.
  • the object is achieved by the features of claim 14.
  • the process steps lead to the desired warp knitted fabric.
  • a warp knitting machine 1 has a knitting needle bar 2 with knitting needles 3, which interact with sliding needles 4, and inclusion knock-off boards 5.
  • the laying bars are displaced in the longitudinal direction in a conventional manner by bar control devices 6, 7 and 8 according to a predetermined pattern.
  • Mirror discs, sample chains or the like are used as the control device.
  • the laying needles 9 are firmly attached to the laying bar L1. They have the same pitch as the knitting needles 3.
  • the pitch of the laying needles 10 and 11 of the laying bars L3 and L2 is twice as large as the knitting needle pitch.
  • the laying needles 10 and 11 are at a gap (FIG. 2) and can be displaced in the opposite direction by one knitting needle pitch in each case by displacement boards 13 and 14 (cf. arrows 13 'and 14' in FIG. 2).
  • the displacement boards are actuated via harness cords 15 and 16 and are triggered by corresponding jacquard control devices 17 and 18 in accordance with a predefined displacement program.
  • a common jacquard control device 117 can also be used, which has individual control elements 118, for example electromagnets, which each have two harness cords 115, 116 or the like. act, which lead to displacement boards of various jacquard laying bars.
  • the threads 19 of the basic thread system fed to the knitting point via the laying needles 9 are of a warp beam 20 withdrawn, the threads 21 and 22 of the two subsystems of the pattern thread system fed via the laying needles 10 and 11 are drawn off from a common warp beam 23.
  • the warp knitting machine of FIG. 1 uses the threads 19 to create a coherent fabric base, which in particular is laid continuously as a jersey.
  • the threads 21 and 22 can be laid in base areas B as a cloth, as shown in FIG. 4.
  • modified laying combinations are used, which, however, have the same thread consumption as the cloth laying in each repeat.
  • jersey As the basic fabric, there is an interesting patterned charmeuse knitwear.
  • the base region B is generated according to FIG. 6.
  • M1 corresponds to FIG. 5, M2 to FIG. 7 and M3 to FIG. 8.
  • FIG. 5 which corresponds to the pattern area M1
  • FIG. 5 shows that the jacquard laying bar L3 performs a basic offset in a repeat R comprising eight working cycles, which has the following course: jersey-cloth-cloth-jersey-cloth-satin-satin cloth.
  • the Jacquard laying bar L2 sets in the basic offset: satin-cloth-cloth-satin-cloth-leotard-leotard cloth. There are therefore two tricot layers, four cloth layers and two satin layers in each repeat. The average backing is therefore just as large as that of the cloth.
  • the laying pattern L3 results in the following laying: Cloth-cloth-fringe-cloth-velvet-velvet cloth.
  • the laying is: Velvet-Cloth-Cloth-Velvet-Cloth-Fringe-Fringe.
  • the basic offset contains jersey and satin layers, it is very easy to change not only to cloth layers, but also to fringe and velvet layers.
  • the additional use of cloth layers for the basic offset enables a higher number of pattern modifications. It also makes the transition from fringe to easier Velvet and vice versa.
  • the layings are made in such a way that, in the middle of the pattern areas, all stitches of the basic fabric are covered with stitches of the pattern thread system. It goes without saying that, in the case of a different basic offset, other combinations or sequences of layings are also possible.
  • FIGS. 9 to 11 Another exemplary embodiment is illustrated in FIGS. 9 to 11.
  • the Jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 are designed so that their laying needles can be pushed ver in the same direction according to the arrows 13 'and 14'.
  • the laying needles are arranged one behind the other in the non-displaced position.
  • the two layings each start in the same needle alley; a needle remains in between.
  • the threads 21, 22 do not form stitches common to all stitches of the basic fabric. However, this is not necessary because the goods reason is self-contained.
  • the basic offset of FIG. 9 provides the following laying for the jacquard laying bar L2: satin cloth-cloth-satin cloth-tricot-tricot cloth.
  • the L3 jacquard laying bar places one after the other: jersey-cloth-cloth-jersey-cloth-satin-satin cloth. This results in a first pattern area M1.
  • FIG. 10 shows the base area characterized by a uniform cloth pattern.
  • the laying needles of one or the other jacquard laying bar are displaced in each case.
  • FIG. 11 shows a second pattern area which corresponds to FIG. 8 and can therefore be referred to as pattern area M3.
  • pattern area M3 By selectively actuating the laying needles of a jacquard laying bar, a repetition in each repeat R becomes Pattern is generated in which the average length of the underlay for each repeat is approximately equal to the underlay length for the fabric layer.
  • the basic offset according to FIG. 12 provides two identical partial reports R1 and R2.
  • the base area B is not illustrated. It arises analogously to FIG. 6 in that the tricot layer is lengthened and the satin layer is shortened. This means that the laying needles of the jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 are displaced in opposite directions in the first and last step of each partial repeat R1 or R2.
  • a pattern area M2 is illustrated in FIG. 13. Here it is shown how, by differently displacing the jacquard-laying needles in the two repeats R1 and R2, an eight-line repeat is created in which the jacquard-laying bar L2 velvet-cloth-tricot-satin-satin-tricot-fringe-cloth and the jacquard- Laying bar L3 fringe cloth satin leotard leotard satin cloth sets.
  • a third displacement program for generating a pattern region M3 is also possible, which corresponds to FIG. 8.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP92117973A 1991-11-21 1992-10-21 Tricot chaîne, métier à tricoter chaîne et procédé de fabrication Expired - Lifetime EP0547332B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4138255A DE4138255C1 (fr) 1991-11-21 1991-11-21
DE4138255 1991-11-21

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0547332A1 true EP0547332A1 (fr) 1993-06-23
EP0547332B1 EP0547332B1 (fr) 1995-12-27

Family

ID=6445259

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP92117973A Expired - Lifetime EP0547332B1 (fr) 1991-11-21 1992-10-21 Tricot chaîne, métier à tricoter chaîne et procédé de fabrication

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (2) US5284034A (fr)
EP (1) EP0547332B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPH05247806A (fr)
DE (2) DE4138255C1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0931866A3 (fr) * 1998-01-21 2000-07-05 Liberty Fabrics Etoffe Jacquard et procédé de sa fabriction
CN104911804A (zh) * 2015-07-06 2015-09-16 江南大学 一种负泊松比二维经编织物及其织造方法
CN106012271A (zh) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 江南大学 一种具有负泊松比效应经编间隔织物的制备方法
CN106757737A (zh) * 2016-12-26 2017-05-31 湖州得盛印染有限公司 一种圈绒布及其生产工艺

Families Citing this family (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4312706C2 (de) * 1993-04-20 1996-07-25 Mayer Textilmaschf Kettenwirkware mit Pol sowie Verfahren und Kettenwirkmaschine zu deren Herstellung
DE69608369T2 (de) * 1995-01-19 2001-02-01 Nippon Mayer Co., Ltd. Mustervorrichtung für kettenstrickmaschinen und verfahren dazu
TW437759U (en) * 1997-02-26 2001-05-28 Nippon Mayer Co Ltd Guide driving device for warp knitting machines
US5797282A (en) * 1997-08-18 1998-08-25 Bodin; Ted Method of utilizing a standard circular knitting machine to produce a fabric with a pattern
US6006550A (en) * 1998-08-20 1999-12-28 Kronfli Spundale Mills, Inc. Reversible knit fabric for use in athletic apparel and method for making same
US6177170B1 (en) 1998-12-28 2001-01-23 Burlington Industries, Inc. Velvet-like jacquard fabrics and processes for making the same
DE19949126B4 (de) * 1999-10-12 2004-01-15 Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Herstellung von konfektionierten Flächenverbunden
US6823900B2 (en) 2001-08-17 2004-11-30 Tietex International, Ltd. Fabric having a decorative textured surface
RU2196853C1 (ru) * 2002-04-25 2003-01-20 Московский государственный текстильный университет им. А.Н.Косыгина Однослойный основовязаный комбинированный трикотаж
RU2196851C1 (ru) * 2002-04-25 2003-01-20 Московский государственный текстильный университет им. А.Н.Косыгина Однослойный основовязаный комбинированный трикотаж
NO319624B1 (no) * 2003-09-15 2005-09-05 Trouw Internat Bv Fiskefôr for laksefisk i ferskvann og anvendelse av slikt fôr.
WO2009002479A1 (fr) * 2007-06-21 2008-12-31 University Of Massachusetts Structures de tissu auxetique et procédés de fabrication associés
US9987114B2 (en) 2010-03-24 2018-06-05 Covidien Lp Combination three-dimensional surgical implant
CN102505325A (zh) * 2011-10-13 2012-06-20 江南大学 无底网蕾丝花边面料生产方法
GB2511484B (en) * 2013-01-21 2019-11-27 Brunet International Hong Kong Ltd Lace manufacturing method
EP3272921B1 (fr) * 2016-07-22 2021-11-10 Nippon Mayer Ltd. Procédé de tricotage d'un tissu tricoté en chaîne

Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1785138A1 (de) * 1968-04-11 1972-02-10 Freitag Feinwaesche Veb Verfahren zur Herstellung mehrschieniger Kettengewirke
FR2327345A1 (fr) * 1975-10-08 1977-05-06 Du Pont Procede perfectionne de tricotage d'etoffes a motifs de surface
DE4001621A1 (de) * 1990-01-20 1991-07-25 Mayer Textilmaschf Kettenwirkmaschine und verfahren zur herstellung von polware sowie zugehoerige polware
DE4020550C1 (en) * 1990-06-28 1991-10-17 Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Gmbh, 6053 Obertshausen, De Warp knitting machine with needle bed with guide bars - provides knitted goods with stable surface

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US3340134A (en) * 1967-09-05 Porter etal knit fabric
DE286828C (fr) * 1913-02-04
FR1182283A (fr) * 1957-05-17 1959-06-24 Martin Manuf Jean Baptiste Procédé de fabrication de velours ou peluches sur métier chaîne ou tout autre métier à
CH567596A5 (fr) * 1973-06-15 1975-10-15 Bonneterie Sa Et
JPS5263465A (en) * 1975-11-13 1977-05-25 Andex Textiel Ind Reed unit for warp knitting machine
JPS6329802B2 (fr) * 1980-09-18 1988-06-15 Tokyo Shibaura Electric Co
IT1153279B (it) * 1982-10-21 1987-01-14 Comez Spa Macchina tessile perfezionata per la formazione di tessuti di vari colori e disegni
JPS607742A (ja) * 1983-06-27 1985-01-16 Nec Corp 半導体装置
DD286940A7 (de) * 1987-10-09 1991-02-14 ������@�K@�����k�� Kettenwirkmaschine, insbesondere naehwirkmaschine
DD282586A7 (de) * 1988-03-23 1990-09-19 Obererzgebirgische Posamenten Kettenwirkmaschine, insbesondere fuer die herstellung von schussgemusterten gewirken eingerichtete haekelgalonmaschine zur herstellung jaquardgemusterter tuellwaren
DE3827265A1 (de) * 1988-08-11 1990-02-15 Mayer Fa Karl Verfahren und kettenwirkmaschine zur herstellung von polware
DE3909013A1 (de) * 1989-03-18 1990-09-20 Mayer Textilmaschf Verfahren zur herstellung einer mit flor versehenen kettenwirkware und zugehoerige kettenwirkmaschine
DE4020549A1 (de) * 1990-06-28 1992-01-09 Mayer Textilmaschf Gemusterte wirkware sowie verfahren und kettenwirkmaschine zu ihrer herstellung

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1785138A1 (de) * 1968-04-11 1972-02-10 Freitag Feinwaesche Veb Verfahren zur Herstellung mehrschieniger Kettengewirke
FR2327345A1 (fr) * 1975-10-08 1977-05-06 Du Pont Procede perfectionne de tricotage d'etoffes a motifs de surface
DE4001621A1 (de) * 1990-01-20 1991-07-25 Mayer Textilmaschf Kettenwirkmaschine und verfahren zur herstellung von polware sowie zugehoerige polware
DE4020550C1 (en) * 1990-06-28 1991-10-17 Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Gmbh, 6053 Obertshausen, De Warp knitting machine with needle bed with guide bars - provides knitted goods with stable surface

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0931866A3 (fr) * 1998-01-21 2000-07-05 Liberty Fabrics Etoffe Jacquard et procédé de sa fabriction
CN104911804A (zh) * 2015-07-06 2015-09-16 江南大学 一种负泊松比二维经编织物及其织造方法
CN106012271A (zh) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 江南大学 一种具有负泊松比效应经编间隔织物的制备方法
CN106012271B (zh) * 2016-08-03 2017-08-25 江南大学 一种具有负泊松比效应经编间隔织物的制备方法
CN106757737A (zh) * 2016-12-26 2017-05-31 湖州得盛印染有限公司 一种圈绒布及其生产工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE4138255C1 (fr) 1993-01-28
US5284034A (en) 1994-02-08
US5331828A (en) 1994-07-26
EP0547332B1 (fr) 1995-12-27
JPH05247806A (ja) 1993-09-24
DE59204848D1 (de) 1996-02-08

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