EP0945535A2 - Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication - Google Patents

Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0945535A2
EP0945535A2 EP99650029A EP99650029A EP0945535A2 EP 0945535 A2 EP0945535 A2 EP 0945535A2 EP 99650029 A EP99650029 A EP 99650029A EP 99650029 A EP99650029 A EP 99650029A EP 0945535 A2 EP0945535 A2 EP 0945535A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
elastic material
waistband
garment
yarn
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP99650029A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0945535A3 (fr
Inventor
Robert William Arthur Dagg
Robert Henry Wilson
Michael Hardstaff
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from IES980510 external-priority patent/IES80583B2/en
Priority claimed from IES990130 external-priority patent/IES990130A2/en
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0945535A2 publication Critical patent/EP0945535A2/fr
Publication of EP0945535A3 publication Critical patent/EP0945535A3/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/02—Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B27/00—Work-feeding means
    • D05B27/02—Work-feeding means with feed dogs having horizontal and vertical movements
    • D05B27/08—Work-feeding means with feed dogs having horizontal and vertical movements with differential feed motions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to elastic material, in particular to an improved elastic material with reduced run back characteristics, that is in which there is little or no run back or slippage of the elastic elements of a narrow fabric elastic material.
  • the present invention also relates to curved or shaped garment elements and to a method of and apparatus for making garment elements, such as for example waist bands for garments, stolling bands for dressing gowns, collars for shirts and the like.
  • the method and apparatus may be used particularly to apply predefined curves or shapes to such elements so as to provide curved or shaped waistbands for example.
  • Run back is a phenomenon which occurs in narrow fabric elastic material in which the elastomeric or Lycra (Trade Mark) elastic elements disengage from other warp and weft elements, and thereby contract in length reducing the overall elasticity of the narrow fabric elastic material. Run back, whilst still evident, is generally less of a problem with rubber based narrow fabric elastomeric materials. It manifests itself mainly with Lycra and with other synthetic elastomers.
  • Lycra Trade Mark
  • the present invention provides a narrow fabric elastic material comprising elastomeric elastic elements, in which the elastomeric elements are covered with a stretch warp yarn.
  • the stretch yarn is or includes polybutylene terephthalate (PBT).
  • PBT polybutylene terephthalate
  • the stretch warp yarn allows under full tension and feed control a significant increased grip of the elastomeric during the covering of the elastomeric elements of the elastic material, whilst retaining the stretch characteristics of the elastic material.
  • the stretch yarn may be applied in a knitting or weaving process for the manufacture of narrow fabric elastic material.
  • a run back test method can measure resistance of the elastomeric element in a narrow fabric elastic material by exposing one elastic element and clamping it in an extension testing device. The other end of the narrow fabric elastic material is clamped in a separate lower jaw having cut the same elastic element which is exposed and clamped in the upper jaws above the lower jaw. A load is applied until the single elastic element is totally extracted from the piece of elastic material. Tests on embodiments of elastic material in accordance with the invention on an extension testing device have demonstrated a very significant improvement in run back.
  • the stretch warp yarn also allows a significant increase in modulus due to the strength of the stretch yarn characteristics when wrapped around the existing elastomeric element. This can be advantageous if extra strength is required or a similar strength can be obtained with a coarser needle gauge machine thus reducing manufacturing costs. Further benefits of this additional strength is that it can be used to create a variable modulus across the width of the fabric in conjunction with multiple needle spacing which provides extra comfort in elasticated shaped garment waistbands.
  • the present invention also provides a garment element having a predefined curvature or shape, the garment element having a folded over single piece or two piece outer fabric and at least one row of stitching retaining the garment element in the predefined curvature or shape.
  • the stitching is a single or double row of stitching.
  • the line of stitching is a row of blind stitching whereby the stitching is not visible from one side of the garment element but is visible from the other side.
  • the stitching on both rows is visible from both sides of the garment element.
  • Such a type of stitching is used in jeans for example.
  • an interlining element or elements is retained within the garment element between the folded side or sides of the outer fabric of the garment element.
  • the interlining element may be elastic material with a single or dual multimodulus or variable modulus across its width, an elastic material with a single modulus across its width, two or more separate lengths of single variable modulus elastic, a rigid tape or interlining or the like.
  • the garment element may also be produced from a rigid fabric formed into an elasticated band using the method as outlined in my European Patent Application 0 774 215 A2 published on 21 st May 1997, the contents of which are incorporated into this specification by reference.
  • the narrow fabric elastic material 10 comprises a weft 20, and an elastomeric warp yarn 30 covered by a PBT yarn 40.
  • the PBT yarn 40 is formed in chain links 60 with the weft 20 being laid within the loops.
  • the elastomeric yarn 30 is shown in a staggered fashion, whereas in reality, the elastomeric yarn 30 will be substantially straight, as it is the strongest yarn.
  • the chain links 60 of PBT warp yarn are formed by the warp placing rail 45 forming loops on the shank 75 of the bearded needles 70 with the weft yarn 20 being laid within the loops.
  • the needles 70 have a deeper shank 75 than normal. The needle therefore forms a bigger loop, allowing a significant increased number of picks or courses to be inserted per cm resulting in more compact wefts, whilst retaining the stretch characteristics of the elastic material which in turn gives reduced shrinkage properties for the fabric.
  • the first embodiment of apparatus comprises a folder 110 having an upper channel 112 and a lower channel 114 for accommodating a front face 120 and rear face 122 of a waistband 124.
  • Elastic material 150 is fused to the waistband 124.
  • the folder 110 has an upper lip 116 and a lower lip 118 which is staggered back from the line of the edge of the upper lip 116 by a distance of approximately 4.75 mm (3/16").
  • needle 130 of the sewing machine with thread 131 penetrates inner turn 170 of the front face 120 of the waistband 124 and penetrates fully through the garment fabric 126 through the inner turn 172 of the rear face 122 of the waistband 124 and exits at the rear face 122.
  • a blind stitch is formed on the front face 120 of the waistband 124 and a chain stitch or lock stitch 125 is formed on the rear face 122 of the waistband 124.
  • the elastic material 150 as shown in Figures 6 and 7 has a variable modulus across its width. It has a plurality of elastomeric elements 151 across its width, and a hinge portion 152 at its centre. The spacing towards the edges 153 and 154 is increased compared to the spacing towards the hinge 152. In this way when the elastic material 150 is included in a waistband 124 the upper edge 132 of the waistband 124 has a greater strength than the lower edge 133 which is weaker. Consequently, when the formed waistband 124 emerges from the apparatus, the upper edge 132 relaxes more than the lower edge 133 thus forming a curve or shape in the waistband.
  • the second embodiment of apparatus includes a twin needle sewing machine (not shown) for applying two rows of stitching in which the feed mechanism for feeding material to the needle points is split so as to provide a differential feed to each needle.
  • the feed eccentric of the left feed dog 210 is adjusted separately from the feed eccentric of the right feed dog 220.
  • Each eccentric is driven by a separate mechanism. In this way, a concave or convex curve or shape can be formed by forming two rows of stitching at different differential feed speeds on a garment element.
  • the waistband 124 is attached to a garment 126 by two rows of stitching 127 and 128.
  • the waistband 124 is shaped as a result of its curvature, thereby giving a more comfortable fit about a person's hips and waist.
  • both embodiments have been described separately, they will preferably be both mounted on a sewing machine, so that a user can select which type of garment element is to be manufactured.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)
EP99650029A 1998-03-26 1999-03-26 Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication Withdrawn EP0945535A3 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IE980227 1998-03-26
IE980227 1998-03-26
IES980510 IES80583B2 (en) 1998-03-26 1998-06-24 Improved elastic material
IE980510 1998-06-24
IES990130 IES990130A2 (en) 1999-02-19 1999-02-19 Curved Garment elements and method and apparatus for their manufacture
IE990130 1999-02-19

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0945535A2 true EP0945535A2 (fr) 1999-09-29
EP0945535A3 EP0945535A3 (fr) 2001-08-01

Family

ID=27270572

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP99650029A Withdrawn EP0945535A3 (fr) 1998-03-26 1999-03-26 Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication

Country Status (1)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0945535A3 (fr)

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007025701A1 (fr) * 2005-09-01 2007-03-08 Gardeur Ag Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme
FR2924130A1 (fr) * 2007-11-26 2009-05-29 Actimage Sa Machine a coudre pour l'assemblage d'une bande souple a une piece de tissu,procede d'assemblage et bande souple formant ceinture ainsi obtenue
CN103189559A (zh) * 2011-10-27 2013-07-03 竹中纤维有限公司 经编布料的制造方法、经编布料以及工作服
CN105764369A (zh) * 2013-10-31 2016-07-13 泰龙技术股份有限公司 连续折叠并带折痕的腰头、领座和用于制造连续折叠并带折痕的腰头、领座的方法和系统
CN108547049A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-09-18 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种腰带结构及其内裤
CN108754836A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-11-06 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种腰带结构的编织方法及其内裤的编织方法
US10220601B2 (en) 2016-03-01 2019-03-05 Talon Technologies, Inc. Multi-feed system
CN114457514A (zh) * 2021-12-24 2022-05-10 石狮市伟马智能科技有限公司 一种圆领缝纫机及多色圆领的缝纫方法

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2101976A (en) * 1981-06-26 1983-01-26 Post Office Belt conveyor system
EP0774215A2 (fr) 1995-11-14 1997-05-21 MARKS and SPENCER p.l.c. Améliorations de la technologie des tissus du vêtement

Family Cites Families (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3258941A (en) * 1963-05-21 1966-07-05 Rimoldi C Spa Virginio Resilient knitted band
US3745588A (en) * 1971-08-09 1973-07-17 Winterj Inc Article of clothing and method of making same
CA952257A (en) * 1972-08-18 1974-08-06 Alice Koves Elastic waist construction for garment
US3920054A (en) * 1974-05-29 1975-11-18 Johnson & Johnson Curvilinear waistband fabric
US4146934A (en) * 1977-09-29 1979-04-03 Leslie Cohen Curved finishing band for garments
US4248064A (en) * 1979-02-14 1981-02-03 Stedman Corporation Lock-stitch knitted elastic fabric
DE3323541C2 (de) * 1983-06-30 1985-07-11 MSI Mechanische Systeme Industrienähautomaten GmbH, 7500 Karlsruhe Vorrichtung zum Einstülpen der Hosen- oder Rockbundenden
US4604315A (en) * 1983-12-20 1986-08-05 Chicopee High bulk, biaxial elastic, heat shrunk fabric
JPS60132323U (ja) * 1984-02-14 1985-09-04 東京瓦斯株式会社 管路の内張り材
US4818316A (en) * 1987-06-04 1989-04-04 Collins & Aikman Corporation Method of forming a ravel resistant warp knit elastic tape
GB2239876B (en) * 1989-11-09 1992-11-04 Robert William Arthur Dagg Elastic waistbands for garments
GB9807861D0 (en) * 1998-04-15 1998-06-10 Pro Fit Int Ltd Improvements in fabric composites

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2101976A (en) * 1981-06-26 1983-01-26 Post Office Belt conveyor system
EP0774215A2 (fr) 1995-11-14 1997-05-21 MARKS and SPENCER p.l.c. Améliorations de la technologie des tissus du vêtement

Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007025701A1 (fr) * 2005-09-01 2007-03-08 Gardeur Ag Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme
FR2924130A1 (fr) * 2007-11-26 2009-05-29 Actimage Sa Machine a coudre pour l'assemblage d'une bande souple a une piece de tissu,procede d'assemblage et bande souple formant ceinture ainsi obtenue
CN103189559A (zh) * 2011-10-27 2013-07-03 竹中纤维有限公司 经编布料的制造方法、经编布料以及工作服
CN103189559B (zh) * 2011-10-27 2014-09-10 竹中纤维有限公司 经编布料的制造方法、经编布料以及工作服
TWI452190B (zh) * 2011-10-27 2014-09-11 Takenaka Seni Co Ltd 經編針織布之製造方法、經編針織布及作業服
US8915101B2 (en) 2011-10-27 2014-12-23 Takenaka Seni Co., Ltd. Warp knitted fabric manufacturing method
US9840037B2 (en) 2013-10-31 2017-12-12 Talon Technologies, Inc. Method of making continuous folded and creased waistband and collar stand
EP3062648A4 (fr) * 2013-10-31 2016-11-02 Talon Tech Inc Ceinture pliée en continu, pied de col, et procédés et systèmes de fabrication de ces derniers
CN105764369A (zh) * 2013-10-31 2016-07-13 泰龙技术股份有限公司 连续折叠并带折痕的腰头、领座和用于制造连续折叠并带折痕的腰头、领座的方法和系统
AU2014342919B2 (en) * 2013-10-31 2018-11-08 Talon Technologies, Inc. Continuous folded and creased waistband, collar stand, and methods and systems for making same
US10464252B2 (en) 2013-10-31 2019-11-05 Talon Technologies, Inc. Systems for making continuous folded and creased waistbands and collar stands
US10220601B2 (en) 2016-03-01 2019-03-05 Talon Technologies, Inc. Multi-feed system
CN108547049A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-09-18 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种腰带结构及其内裤
CN108754836A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-11-06 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种腰带结构的编织方法及其内裤的编织方法
CN114457514A (zh) * 2021-12-24 2022-05-10 石狮市伟马智能科技有限公司 一种圆领缝纫机及多色圆领的缝纫方法
CN114457514B (zh) * 2021-12-24 2023-09-08 石狮市伟马智能科技股份有限公司 一种圆领缝纫机及多色圆领的缝纫方法

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Publication number Publication date
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