Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/45—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/88—Polyamides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/899—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
• a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one surfactant amidoethercarboxylic acid and at least one combination of at least one non-crosslinked anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.
• compositions are known, in particular non-rinsed hair compositions comprising an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer. These compositions have good styling properties. However, when these combinations of polymers are used in rinsed compositions such as shampoos, the styling properties of these compositions are not satisfactory. Thus, patent FR2 383 660 has already combined an alkyl ether carboxylate surfactant with a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer. On the one hand, the styling properties are not satisfactory, on the other hand, the foaming power of such a composition is insufficient.
• the aim is to obtain cosmetic compositions which are capable of providing the hair with styling, volume, shaping and hold properties while having good cosmetic properties such as softness, feel or detangling, as well as '' sufficient foaming power to use them as a shampoo composition.
• the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by combining at least one alkylamidoethercarboxylic acid surfactant or its salts with at least one association of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, the styling, volume, shaping and of hair holding were substantially superior to those obtained with the surfactants of the prior art used in combination with the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
• composition according to the invention is therefore essentially characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one surfactant amidoethercarboxylic acid or its salts and at least one combination of at least one non-crosslinked anionic polymer and of at least one cationic polymer.
• the invention also relates to the use of the composition described above for styling or shaping the hair.
• amidoether carboxylic acid surfactant generally has the following formula (I):
• RCN (CH 2 CH 2 0) - CH 2 COOM (I) R2 in which R-
• R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, - (CH 2 CH 2 0) n CH 2 COOM or - (CH 2 CH 2 O) m and preferably a hydrogen atom ; n and m, identical or different, represent a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly between 1 and 5.
• M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal (for example Na + , K + ), NH4 + , the ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline or alternatively among amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine, 3-amino-propanediol-1,2.
• alkali metal for example Na + , K +
• NH4 + the ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline or alternatively among amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine, 3-amino-propanediol-1,2.
• amido ether carboxylic surfactant is the sodium salt of formula:
• Such a compound is for example marketed under the name AKYPOFOAM 30 BV by the company CHEM Y.
• any non-crosslinked or cationic anionic polymer known per se can be used. These polymers can be used in dissolved form or in the form of dispersions of solid polymer particles.
• the non-crosslinked anionic polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a weight-average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5,000,000.
• the carboxylic groups are provided by mono or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:
• n is an integer from 0 to 10
• A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via of a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur
• R5 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group
• R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group
• R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group lower, a group -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl
• a lower alkyl radical preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular, methyl and ethyl.
• the anionic polymers with carboxylic groups preferred according to the invention are: A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL E or K by the company ALLIED COLLOID and ULTRAHOLD by BASF.
• copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid can be grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol.
• a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol.
• Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,222,944 and German application 2,330,956. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers comprising in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID.
• lauryl such as that sold by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE LM
• tert-butyl LVIFLEX VBM 70 marketed by BASF
• STEPANHOLD EXTRA sold by STEPAN
• C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
• Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798.
• Commercial products falling into this class are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
• copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenyl vinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified;
• Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113, GB patent 839,805 and in particular those marketed under the names GANTREZ AN or ES, AVANTAGE CP by the company ISP.
• the copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, ⁇ -olefin group, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic or vinylpyrrolidone acids in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.
• the polymers comprising the sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene sulfonic, naphthalene sulfonic or acrylamido alkylsulfonic units.
• These polymers can in particular be chosen from:
• polyvinylsulfonic acid having a weight average molecular weight of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000 as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, ethers vinyl and vinylpyrrolidone.
• the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers marketed in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / tert-butyl terpolymers vinyl benzoate / crotonic acid and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
• acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers marketed in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF
• the most particularly preferred non-crosslinked anionic polymers are chosen from the methyl ester / maleic anhydride mono esterified copolymers marketed under the name GANTREZ ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tertiobutylacrylamide terpolymers marketed under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate marketed under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the vinyl acetate / tert-butyl vinyl benzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid terpolymers / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate marketed under the name LUVIMER MAE
• anionic polymers can also be used in the form of latex or pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of particles of insoluble polymers.
• anionic polymers of the grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer the other being grafted on the said main channel.
• These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-A- 0 412 704, EP-A-0412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037.
• Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers capable of being obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers consisting of: a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate; b) 1 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula:
• a family of silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which are particularly suitable for implementing the present invention consists of silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following formula of formula (III):
• radicals d which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C ⁇ -C 10 alkyl radical or else a phenyl radical
• radicals G 2 which may be identical or different, represent represents a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group
• G 3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation
• G represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer
• m and n are 0 or 1
• a is an integer ranging from 0 and 50
• b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350
• c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.
• the motif of formula (III) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
• radicals G 1 denote a C r C 10 alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical
• radicals G 2 represent a divalent radical in C ⁇ -C 3 , preferably a propylene radical;
• - G 3 represents a polymer radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;
• - G 4 represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the alkyl (meth) acrylate type CC ⁇ ., Preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate.
• the motif of formula (III) above can also contain all of the following characteristics:
• radicals G-i denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical
• radicals G 2 represent a divalent radical in CrC 3 , preferably a propylene radical
• G 3 represents a polymer radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;
• grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly (meth) type. ) alkyl acrylate such as isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• Particularly used are the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) of polymethyl / methylsiloxane structure with propyl thio-3 polymethacrylic acid groups and methyl propyl thio-3 polymethacrylate groups and the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) of polymethyl / methylsiloxane structure with propyl thio-3 polyacrylic acid groups.
• cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se, in particular those described in patent application EP-A- 0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
• cationic polymer designates any polymer containing cationic groups or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
• the cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 6 approximately.
• cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.
• a family of cationic polymers is that of cationic silicone polymers. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:
• G 5 , G 6 , G 7 and G 8 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, for example methyl, C 2 -C 8 alkenyl, or C 1 alkoxy C18 a, a ', identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to
• R 6 , R 7 , R 8 identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula - C q H 2q O s R 9 t L in which q is a number from 1 to 8, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1
• R 9 denotes an optionally hydroxylated alkylene group and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the groups:
• R " can denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and
• a " represents a halide ion such as for example fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide .
• x 'and y are whole numbers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that said molecular weight is between 5,000 and 20,000 approximately;
• a product corresponding to formula (IV) is the polymer named in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone”, corresponding to the formula:
• n and m have the meanings given above (cf. formula IV).
• a commercial product meeting this definition is a mixture (90/10 by weight) of a polydimethylsiloxane containing aminoethyl aminoisobutyl groups and of a polydimethylsiloxane marketed under the name Q2-8220 by the company Dow Corning.
• R 10 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially alkyl C ⁇ C 8 alkenyl or C 2 -C ⁇ 8, for example methyl;
• R 1 1 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in C ⁇ -C ⁇ 8 , for example in C Cs;
• Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride; r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to
• a polymer belonging to this class is the polymer marketed by the Union Carbide Company under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
• a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. It is possible, for example, to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (VII):
• R 12 denotes alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from tallow fatty acids, in association with a nonionic surfactant of formula:
• polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide, quaternary polyammonium type which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.
• the vinylpyrrolidone-acrylate or dialkylamino-alkyl methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat®" by the company ISP, such as for example Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100 or the product called "Copolymer 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.
• Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethyl ammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethyl ammonium or dimethyl-diallylammonium.
• polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers.
• Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;
• water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or even by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amino group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkyl
• polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adip.que-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyloyldialoylene triamine acid polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.
• adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1.
• Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
• Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine.
• R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R ⁇ 3 and R 4 independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group or R 13 and R ⁇ 4 may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl
• Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
• R 16 , R 17 , R 18 and R 19 identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R 16 , R 17 , R 18 and R 19 , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R 16 , R 17 , R 18 and R 19 represent a C r C alkyl radical 6 linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 20 -D or -CO-NH-R 20 -D group where R 20 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
• represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxylated, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
• A1, R 16 and R 18 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if Aj denotes an alkylene radical or hydroxyalkylene, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B- ] can also denote a group (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n -
• X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
• R21, R22, R23 and R 24, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) p OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 21 , R 22 , R 23 and R 24 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,
• X denotes a halogen atom
• a 3 denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH -CH -0 -CH 2 -CH -.
• the groups R 30 independently denote H or CH 3
• the groups A 2 independently denote a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms
• the groups R 25 , R 26 , R 27 identical or different, independently denoting an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical
• the groups R 28 and R 29 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms
• X 2 denotes an anion, for example methosulfate or halide, such as chloride or bromide.
• the comonomer (s) which can be used in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted with nitrogen by lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.
• Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
• Polyamines such as Polyquart H marketed by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
• Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide.
• a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can more particularly be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
• This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cyclopolymers, in particular copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide having a molecular weight greater than 500,000, sold under the names "MERQUAT® 550" and “MERQUAT® S” by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly the polymer sold under the name "JAGUAR® C13S" by the company MEYHALL, and the polyaminoamides of the family (6) described above.
• cationic polymers in the form of latex or of pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of particles of insoluble polymers.
• the anionic polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight , of the total weight of the final composition.
• the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight , of the total weight of the final composition.
• the amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant (s) may represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. weight, the total weight of the final composition.
• the ratio of cationic charge of the cationic polymer (s) / anionic charge of the anionic polymer (s) expressed in meq./g is generally between 0.25 and 5, preferably between 0.5 and 2 and even more preferably between 0.75 and 1.25.
• the cationic charge is the number of quaternary, tertiary, secondary or primary amine atoms per gram of polymer.
• the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium preferably consists of water or a mixture of water and cosmetically or solvents dermatologically acceptable such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers or fatty acid esters, which can be used alone or as a mixture.
• lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol
• polyalcohols such as diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, alkyl ethers of glycol or of diethylene glycol.
• composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from sequestering agents, softeners, foam modifiers, dyes, pearlescent agents, hydrating agents, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrhoeic agents, setting agents.
• suspension ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains Ci 6 -C 0 , hydroxy acids, electrolytes, thickeners, fatty acid esters, fatty acid and glycerol esters, silicone, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, non-ionic polymers, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
• additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is easily determined by those skilled in the art.
• compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, more or less thickened lotion or foam.
• the compositions according to the invention are generally used as products, in particular for washing, caring for, conditioning, maintaining the hairstyle or shaping keratin materials such as the hair.
• compositions of the invention can more particularly be in the form of shampoo, conditioner to rinse or not, compositions for perm, hair straightening, coloring or discoloration, or also in the form of compositions to be applied before or after coloring , discoloration, perm or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.
• the compositions are washing compositions.
• compositions according to the invention when they are in particular in the form of washing compositions such as shampoos comprise a washing base, generally aqueous.
• the surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
• the minimum amount of washing base is that just sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.
• the washing base can represent from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
• surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
• Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.
• anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfo succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfo
• anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
• Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.
• anionic surfactants it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.
• Non-ionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature.
• alcohols can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of groups ethylene oxide or propylene oxide which may range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which may range in particular from 2 to 30.
• copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, oxide condensates ethylene and propylene on fatty alcohols polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (C ⁇ 0 -Cu) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
• the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall particularly well within
• Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) may in particular be (non-limiting list) of derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 2 o) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C Ce) beta ' ines or (C 8 -C 2 o) alkyl amidoalkyl (CrC 6 ) sulfobetaines.
• R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) (2) in which: R 2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 2 -COOH present in coconut oil hydrolyzed, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
• B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ⁇
• X' denotes the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom
• R 2 ′ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 9 -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C 7 , C 9 , Cn or C 13 , a radical C- alkyl
• cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C 2 M concentrated by the company MIRANOL.
• Cationic Surfactants Among the cationic surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines , optionally polyoxyalkylated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
• composition according to the invention when packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant.
• volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures.
• Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant.
• the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the hair, which consists in applying a composition to them as defined above and then optionally rinsing with water.
• Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of slightly bleached hair previously wet.
• the shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
• the locks of hair are dried at 60 ° C for 30 min.
• the procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
• composition A according to the invention containing the alkylamidoethercarboxylic surfactant are significantly more cured (at the threshold of 5%) than those treated with the composition containing the surfactant of the prior art.
• a shampoo of the following composition was prepared:
• Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of slightly bleached hair previously wet.
• the shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
• the locks of hair are dried at 60 ° C for 30 min.
• the procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
• composition A according to the invention containing the alkylamidoethercarboxylic surfactant are significantly more cured (at the threshold of 5%) than those treated with the composition containing the surfactant of the prior art.

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• 1997
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