EP1013810A2 - Etoffe textile à aspect du suéde - Google Patents
Etoffe textile à aspect du suéde Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1013810A2 EP1013810A2 EP99125729A EP99125729A EP1013810A2 EP 1013810 A2 EP1013810 A2 EP 1013810A2 EP 99125729 A EP99125729 A EP 99125729A EP 99125729 A EP99125729 A EP 99125729A EP 1013810 A2 EP1013810 A2 EP 1013810A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- dtex
- yarns
- knitted
- titer
- suede
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,4,4,6,6-hexaphenoxy-1,3,5-triaza-2$l^{5},4$l^{5},6$l^{5}-triphosphacyclohexa-1,3,5-triene Chemical compound N=1P(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP=1(OC=1C=CC=CC=1)OC1=CC=CC=C1 RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007788 roughening Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229920004935 Trevira® Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001410 Microfiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005470 impregnation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003658 microfiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002649 leather substitute Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- 208000019300 CLIPPERS Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 208000021930 chronic lymphocytic inflammation with pontine perivascular enhancement responsive to steroids Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- NBVXSUQYWXRMNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N fluoromethane Chemical compound FC NBVXSUQYWXRMNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011527 polyurethane coating Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011144 upstream manufacturing Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
- D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
- D10B2403/0111—One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised
Definitions
- the invention relates to a suede-like textile fabric, a method for the production of the same and its use.
- a textile is used in the production of synthetic leather Flat structures to be used, especially with polyurethanes is equipped.
- DE-A-2 310 211 describes a suede-like product in which a fabric takes over the function of the textile fabric. Here too impregnation with a polyurethane solution.
- EP 0 238 476 B1 describes a nubuck or suede-like substrate described, in which the textile fabric can be a synthetic fiber fleece, the possibly needled with a knitted fabric and in which the fibers of the fleece are partially protrude from the surface of the leather.
- DE-AS-2 924 369 describes a roughened warp knitted fabric described, in which the textile fabric from a roughened Warp knitted fabric exists in which the pile-forming binding is bound in satin or Should have velvet.
- the warp knitted fabric can be double-rail, as from the Example emerges.
- impregnation is particularly important Polyurethanes required.
- suede-like fabrics are already known are made up of a wide variety of textile fabrics, such as Nonwovens, woven or knitted fabrics or combinations thereof another need for improved suede-like fabrics.
- the object of the invention is therefore to provide such a fabric
- one that is suede-like Handle and suede-like appearance that has good air permeability possesses that not with a polyurethane impregnation or coating must be provided and that due to its soft nature and very good mechanical properties can be used for many purposes, especially for clothing and upholstery fabrics.
- a knitted suede-like textile Flat structure which is characterized in that the knitted fabric has three rails is built up and the first rail is designed as a sheet with a Laying 2-3 / 1-0, the second rail as velvet laying with a laying of 1-0 / 3-4 to 1-0 / 5-6 and the third layer as a jersey layer 1-0 / 1-2, and that in the three Different yarns are used, the first one Has yarn content of about 15 to 40 wt .-% of the fabric and one Yarn titer from 30 to 150 dtex with a single titer from 2 to 4 dtex has the second laying a weight fraction of 30-80% and a total titer of 30-100 dtex with a finer single titer of 0.5-2 dtex and the third layer one Weight fraction of 5-40% coarse titer yarns of 2-50 dtex single titer and one Total titers up to 50, preferably 20 up to 50 dtex.
- the coarse-titer yarns are particularly advantageously made of monofilaments. It is advantageous if the knitted fabric as raw material has a dense setting with something 26 up to 32 stitches / cm.
- the yarns used preferably have one Thermal shrinkage at 200 ° C from 10 to 25%, the coarse titer yarn has a higher shrinkage than the other yarns.
- Those are preferred yarns used for the knitted textile fabric polyester yarns, in particular yarns made from polyethylene terephthalate.
- the yarns used consist entirely or partly from flame-retardant polymers, especially from flame-retardant flammable linear polyesters.
- the yarns used are sorted.
- the yarns are preferably smooth.
- textured yarns can also be used, e.g. B. for clothing.
- the weight per unit area of the raw material is preferably between 75 and 350 g / m 2 , weight per unit area of 100 and 350 g / m 2 being particularly suitable for cover fabrics and weight per unit area of 75 to 200 g / m 2 for clothing.
- the invention further relates to a method for producing suede-like textile fabrics based on knitted fabrics Knitting, roughening and possibly shearing and dyeing, which is characterized by that a three-rail knitted fabric is formed, the first rail as Cloth laying is formed, with a 2-3 / 1-0 laying, the second rail as Velvet laying with a laying of 1-0 / 3-4 to 1-0 / 5-6 and the third laying as Jersey laying 1-0 / 1-2 and different yarns used in the three layers be, the first laying a game share of about 15-40 wt .-% in the Has flat structures and a yarn count of 30-150 dtex with a Individual titers of 2-4 dtex, the second laying a weight percentage of 30-80% and a total titer of 30-100 dtex with a finer single titer of 0.5-2 dtex and the third lay a weight fraction of 5-40% coarse titer yarn from 2-50 dtex single titer and a
- the process uses yarns that are made entirely or partially of flame retardant made polymers consist, in particular, of flame-resistant linear Polyesters.
- flame retardant linear polyesters and processes too their manufacture are described in German patents 23 46 787 and 24 54 189, which is expressly referred to here.
- Another object of the invention is the use of the suede-like fabrics according to the invention as upholstery fabrics and for clothing purposes, wherein a fabric weight of 150 to 350 and a fabric weight of 100 to 200 g / m 2 are preferred for clothing.
- the three - rail knitted fabric with the three rails of cloth, velvet and Jersey laying can be made using standard warp knitting machines become.
- the individual legends as such are for the average specialist known and are e.g. in textile and model dictionary, 7th completely revised and extended edition, German specialist publisher by Alfons Hofer explained in more detail.
- multifilament yarns are particularly suitable for the first and second rail are, especially polyester yarns, are preferred for the third rail Monofilament for use.
- the yarn for L1 consists of a polyester yarn 50 dtex f20 (Trevira Type 616 from Trevira GmbH & Co. KG, Frankfurt am Main, L2: 76 dtex F64 (Trevira Type 616) and for L3 33dtex f1 (Trevira Type 610).
- the number the threads are 1160.
- the raw width is 210 cm
- the finished width is 120-125 cm
- the raw weight is 214 g / m 2
- the finished weight is 309 g / m 2
- the stitches / cm are 28 for the raw goods and 26 for the finished goods 28E.
- a conventional warp knitting machine is used as the machine.
- the material gets a good backing, which can be treated very well when equipped, and shows an excellent width increase when roughening.
- the second laying gives a good pile height, one soft feel, good appearance, this gives the product a suede character, with the selected yarn titers you achieve a finished weight of around 300 g / cm 2 .
- the L3 layer (jersey) interrupts the long layer of L2, so that none Cross ribs are visible on the surface. It also becomes a irregular surface achieved.
- the use of the monofilament gives this Product has a special grip and stability, which with structures according to the State of the art cannot be achieved.
- polyester yarns are used for all three layers, and it the product is therefore easy to replicate Use later to be recycled.
- Drying preferably takes place on a tensioning and fixing frame (e.g. a device from Monforts). It has a dry temperature of 120-130 ° C proved to be particularly useful.
- the area is opposite the Raw goods are set about 30% narrower in width directions and in Stretched lengthwise by approx. 10% compared to the raw material.
- the textile fabrics according to the invention can be treated with a water or oil-repellent finish.
- This can e.g. B. on one Tensioning and fixing frames can be carried out with an upstream foulard.
- the padding can be done with a so-called oleophobicizing agent (fluorocarbon) be performed.
- oleophobicizing agent fluorocarbon
- the quantities of Oleophobic agents are in the usual range of about 5% and are generally given directly by the manufacturers of textile auxiliaries. Due to the water and oil repellent finish, the product character of the knitted fabric according to the invention practically unchanged, i.e. keeps the material its suede-like character.
- suede-like Flat structures with such excellent properties have become accessible.
- the product has a pleasant grip. It is very economical manufacture, a polyurethane coating is not required, the number of Operations are small in both the knitting process and the equipment.
- the product shows an excellent suede-like grip and corresponding suede-like optical behavior. It is soft and breathable, there are no meshes on the surface, also is no writing effect in the goods surface. Because the knitted fabric pure yarns such as polyethylene terephthalate can be produced they are also 100% recyclable.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE19859871A DE19859871A1 (de) | 1998-12-23 | 1998-12-23 | Wildlederartiges textiles Flächengebilde |
| DE19859871 | 1998-12-23 |
Publications (3)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP1013810A2 true EP1013810A2 (fr) | 2000-06-28 |
| EP1013810A3 EP1013810A3 (fr) | 2001-01-03 |
| EP1013810B1 EP1013810B1 (fr) | 2004-08-18 |
Family
ID=7892542
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP99125729A Expired - Lifetime EP1013810B1 (fr) | 1998-12-23 | 1999-12-23 | Etoffe textile à aspect du suéde |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP1013810B1 (fr) |
| DE (2) | DE19859871A1 (fr) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1416077A3 (fr) * | 2002-10-28 | 2004-06-23 | ALCANTARA S.p.A. | Nappe tridimensionelle microfibreuse ayant un aspect de suède et son procédé de production |
| DE202021102018U1 (de) | 2021-04-15 | 2022-07-18 | Mattes & Ammann Gmbh & Co. Kg | Gewirk mit Wildlederoptik |
Family Cites Families (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS539301A (en) * | 1976-07-12 | 1978-01-27 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of leather like sheet structre |
| JPS5427094A (en) * | 1977-08-03 | 1979-03-01 | Teijin Ltd | Production of suede like raised fabric |
| DE2924369B1 (de) * | 1979-06-16 | 1980-05-22 | Hoechst Ag | Verfahren zur Herstellung einer gerauhten Kettwirkware |
| GB2106153B (en) * | 1981-09-03 | 1985-04-11 | Ici Plc | Elastomeric knitted pile fabrics |
| ATE69074T1 (de) * | 1986-03-15 | 1991-11-15 | Benecke Ag J H | Nubuk-bzw. velourlederartiges substrat sowie verfahren zur herstellung desselben. |
| IT1239906B (it) * | 1990-04-19 | 1993-11-23 | Eurojesery | Metodo per la produzione di tessuti elastici ad effetto pelle e tessuti ottenuti mediante tale metodo |
-
1998
- 1998-12-23 DE DE19859871A patent/DE19859871A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
1999
- 1999-12-23 DE DE59910270T patent/DE59910270D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1999-12-23 EP EP99125729A patent/EP1013810B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1416077A3 (fr) * | 2002-10-28 | 2004-06-23 | ALCANTARA S.p.A. | Nappe tridimensionelle microfibreuse ayant un aspect de suède et son procédé de production |
| DE202021102018U1 (de) | 2021-04-15 | 2022-07-18 | Mattes & Ammann Gmbh & Co. Kg | Gewirk mit Wildlederoptik |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP1013810A3 (fr) | 2001-01-03 |
| DE19859871A1 (de) | 2000-06-29 |
| DE59910270D1 (de) | 2004-09-23 |
| EP1013810B1 (fr) | 2004-08-18 |
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