Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
  • D02G3/46—Sewing-cottons or the like
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S57/00—Textiles: spinning, twisting, and twining
  • Y10S57/903—Sewing threads
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
  • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
  • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
  • Y10T428/2922—Nonlinear [e.g., crimped, coiled, etc.]
  • Y10T428/2924—Composite
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
  • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
  • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
  • Y10T428/2973—Particular cross section
  • Y10T428/2976—Longitudinally varying

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a sewing yarn having the features of the preamble of claim 1 and two methods for Production of such a sewing thread.
• Sewing threads are known in different constructions.
• EP 0 295 601 A describes a sewing thread multifilament synthetic fibers, the known sewing thread being the construction an air-twisted sewing yarn, such that a multifilament first core yarn component with the aid of a Airflow swirled with a second effect yarn component is. This swirling causes the individual filaments such a sewing yarn loop or arcuate with each other mixed, so that thereby the required for the sewing process Thread closure of the sewing thread is achieved.
• a second basic sewing thread construction is in EP 0 569 891A.
• This is a multifilament first yarn component wound by a second yarn component, wherein the Creation of the finished core yarn then at least two, preferably three, such rovings are twisted together, so that by the Verzwirnung the relevant thread closure can be achieved.
• these are made up of at least two yarn components existing rovings provided with a rotation, wherein the direction of rotation of this rotation is opposite to the direction of rotation the twist.
• EP 0 919 649 A discloses a sewing thread of synthetic multifilaments known, wherein the known sewing thread at least two Has yarn components, the individual filaments each in parallel aligned with each other. These two yarn components are wound together, to achieve the required Thread closure then the twisted two yarn components full surface on its surface with a polymeric Coating are provided. In other words, so this Known sewing thread two mutually twisted multifilament yarn components but with all filaments in each yarn component are aligned parallel to each other.
• the present invention is based on the object, a sewing thread in particular for use in elastic articles for Which is particularly economically viable is.
• the sewing thread according to the invention consists, as the above-described known sewing threads, made of multifilament synthetic fibers and / or Fiber yarns.
• the inventive ready-to-use sewing thread a maximum tensile strength elongation between 25% and 85%, this maximum tensile force elongation and the absolute strength in a conventional manner by a usual force-strain measurement method based on DIN EN ISO 2062 be determined.
• the invention has Sewing yarn a tensile elongation of between 30% and 95% the elongation, which is determined at a measuring force, the 70th % of the absolute strength of the respective sewing thread corresponds.
• Elastic articles in the sense of the present application are all Articles which, when loaded, i. during a force application, undergo a reversible length enlargement, wherein the term elastic article in particular knitted and knitted Made-to-measure articles in the field of underwear, swimwear, Sportswear, blouses, T-shirts, sweatshirts, and sweaters Corsetry but also elastic and in particular woven outerwear articles, so for example elastic pants and preferably elastic jeans, as well as elastic technical articles, such as seat covers for vehicle seats covers.
• fiber yarn used herein refers to the Conceived Stapelmaschinegarn or spun yarn corresponds, respectively such threads, which consist of a variety of individual fibers (Staple fibers) with a limited length, for example one Stapling length between 12 mm and 160 mm, created, preferably spun, are.
• the first significant advantage of the invention Sewing thread to note that by using the sewing yarn according to the invention in elastic articles such Make seams, even without the provision of the previously Garnüberin described in the seam, as in the known Sewing threads is always required, perfectly elastic Make seams.
• This advantage comes especially then to advantage, if with the sewing thread according to the invention lockstitch seams of the stitch type 301 according to DIN 61400, in this case, the sewing thread according to the invention on lockstitch machines at speeds between 2,500 revolutions / min Up to 5,000 revolutions / min and a stitch density of up to 5 Stitches / cm only one thread breakage frequency of less than two Thread breaks / hour in continuous use owns.
• the created with the sewing thread according to the invention Stitching, especially lockstitch seams, an excellent Near-elasticity that exists even then if in such a seam no or only a very small Garnüberrat of the sewing thread is present, due to the high Elasticity of the sewing yarn according to the invention and in particular the high elastic elongation of the same ensures that even after a repeated stress as well as after one repeated overloading of the suture no unwanted dislocation The seam occurs as the sewing thread adhere to the elasticity of the elastic article.
• the sewing thread according to the invention can be used as a multifilament Synthetic fiber contain any synthetic fibers that are ready to use Sewing thread the aforementioned tensile strength elongation and gives the aforementioned elastic elongation.
• the sewing thread according to the invention corresponding polyethylene terephthalate fibers or polyamide 6 or polyamide 6.6 fibers or consist of these fibers.
• the sewing thread according to the invention has at least one yarn component consisting of a chemical modified polyester fiber, being here as special preferred chemically modified polyester fiber multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber or a fiber yarn made of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers.
• the sewing thread according to the invention contains either the aforementioned multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber or the previously mentioned fiber yarn of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers or else the sewing thread according to the invention in particular of at least one multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber and / or at least one fiber yarn made of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers.
• the sewing thread according to the invention may have, as described in the prior art provided that it is ensured that such Construction of the sewing thread according to the invention a maximum tensile elongation between 25% and 85%, preferably between 35% and 70%, and provides a ductile stretch that between 30% to 95% and especially between 50% and 80% the elongation, which is determined at a measuring force, the 70th % of the absolute strength of the respective sewing thread corresponds.
• the sewing thread according to the invention has the construction of a sewing thread, this, continue through excellent processing distinctive sewing thread then at least two twist components and preferably comprises three twist components. Surprised could be found that such a twisted construction the seam created herewith an excellent elasticity although conventional sewing thread plys are by design characterized by a relatively inelastic behavior.
• this pre-rotation is done in S-direction, and the pre-turned Twisted components then together forming the Nähzwirnes are twisted, this twist rotation preferably in the Z direction takes place, such a development of the Sewing yarn according to the invention by a high processing safety when sewing, i. thus by an even lower thread breakage frequency, in combination with a high near-elasticity out, so that the hereby created seams even after multiple Stress and discharge do not lose their elasticity.
• Sewing thread provides that here are the Nähzwirn forming Twist components a pre-rotation with a rotation coefficient ⁇ between 50 and 130 and especially between 70 and 100, during the sewing thread created from this particular has a rotation coefficient ⁇ 'which is between 80 and 160 and preferably varies between 95 and 125.
• rotation coefficient ⁇ or ⁇ ' is defined as follows: Rotation coefficient ⁇ - Turns per meter nm
• Nm means the yarn count (total titer) of each pre-twisted twist component indicated in number metric.
• Rotation coefficient ⁇ ' Turns per meter nm
• Nm means the yarn count (total titer) of the entire twist, given in number metric.
• the sewing thread of the invention has the construction a swirled yarn, wherein the swirled yarn at least a first yarn component forming the core of the yarn and at least one second yarn component fluidized therewith such that the second yarn component is the fancy yarn component formed.
• the sewing thread according to the invention gives this entangled Nähgarnkonstrutation the sewing thread according to the invention a particularly high softness and especially skin-friendly smoothness, so that this construction always preferred is selected when the sewing thread according to the invention for sewing is used by such elastic articles that directly on worn on the skin or which are particularly firm on the skin issue.
• both the first yarn component as well the second yarn component exclusively from the chemically modified multifilament polyester fiber and especially exclusively multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers has such a special embodiment of the invention Sewing thread a high elasticity in connection with an optimal elastic elongation, so that seams, are made from this, no Nähgarnüberinn in the Seam must have more. Therefore, such a Sewing thread with high economy due to the previously described Process sewing thread saving.
• this development also has the construction a swirled sewing yarn, but the first Yarn component, i. the core yarn component, from the chemical modified multifilament polyester fiber and in particular consists of the multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber, while the second yarn component containing the fancy yarn component forms, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber and thus with respect their chemical structure from a conventional multifilament Polyester fiber is made.
• the first Yarn component i. the core yarn component
• the second yarn component containing the fancy yarn component forms, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber and thus with respect their chemical structure from a conventional multifilament Polyester fiber is made.
• the mass ratio of the first yarn component to the second Yarn component varies between 60:40 to 80:20, covers the fancy yarn component, especially when compared to the core yarn component a higher single filament number and a lower one Single filament titer, complete or almost complete the core yarn component, so that this embodiment the sewing thread according to the invention then preferably for such Sewing threads is selected in medium to dark shades Tobe offered.
• this development of the sewing yarn according to the invention in the middle dyed particularly dark to dark shades, so that accordingly such a dyed sewing thread according to the invention high fastness properties and preferably high wet fastness properties.
• Sewing thread with a rotation between 0 turns / m and 500 turns / m, in particular between 80 turns / m and 250 turns / m.
• Sewing thread combines optimal machine bonding properties, i.e. a further reduced thread breakage frequency, with a high elasticity, so that hereby especially especially delicate elastic articles and preferably under application a lockstitch seam of stitch type 301 (DIN 61400) can be sewn.
• the inventive Sewing thread preferably the dyed sewing thread, in particular a hot air shrinkage at 180 ° C between 0.5% and 3 % and preferably between 0.6% and 1.5%, as well as a Boiling shrinkage at 98 ° C in water between 0.1% and 1.5% and preferably between 0.15% and 0.8%.
• a hot air shrinkage at 180 ° C for 15 minutes is the Hot air shrinkage at 180 ° C for 15 minutes and the Boiling shrinkage in water at 98 ° C for 15 minutes.
• the sewing yarn according to the invention is aimed Strengths to be provided according to which yarn components for the production of sewing thread are used, which Nähgarnkonstrutation is selected, for what purpose and in which Seam construction, the sewing thread according to the invention is used.
• a preferred Embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention an absolute Strength between 400 cN and 900 cN and specific strength between 10 cN / tex and 25 cN / tex, such an embodiment the sewing thread according to the invention then either the construction a double-thread, preferably using is created by fiber yarns, or the construction of a air-twisted multifilament sewing yarn owns.
• the absolute Strength in particular between 900 cN and 1,300 cN and their specific strength between 30 cN / tex and 45 cN / tex vary.
• multifile Triple twist or air-twisted multifilament constructions used.
• the absolute strength in particular between 1,300 cN and 1,800 cN and the specific Strength preferably vary between 45 cN / tex and 60 cN / tex, so that in summary it should be noted that the absolute strength of the sewing yarn according to the invention in particular between 400 cN and 1,800 cN and the specific strength of the sewing yarn according to the invention preferably between 10 cN / tex and 60 cN / tex and preferably between 14 cN / tex and 34 cN / tex be.
• the total titre of the sewing yarn according to the invention is determined thereafter, for which the sewing thread according to the invention is applied and with which type of stitch this sewing thread according to the invention then sewn becomes.
• a total titre of the invention Sewing thread which is between 100 dtex and 1,800 dtex and preferably between 200 dtex and 1200 dtex, one varies Variety of applications of the invention sewing thread when sewing a wide range of different elastic Covering articles, so that the sewing thread according to the invention preferably has the aforementioned total titre.
• a chemically modified polyester fiber and preferably a multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber contain or consist of. Show here these embodiments, such a chemically modified Polyester fiber or such a poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber whose single filament number is between 18 filaments and 90 filaments and in particular between 30 filaments and 60 Filaments varies.
• the staple length preferably between 25 mm and 110 mm and in particular varies between 35 mm and 90 mm.
• Particularly versatile are such embodiments of the Sewing yarn according to the invention, in which the sewing thread according to the invention a floating value between 130 cN and 200 cN and in particular has a floating value between 140 cN and 160 cN.
• the sewing thread according to the invention a floating value between 130 cN and 200 cN and in particular has a floating value between 140 cN and 160 cN.
• the sewing thread according to the invention in elastic Articles the trouble-free machine creation of a lockstitch seam, so that the created lockstitch seam the chainstitch seam produced today with conventional sewing threads advantageously replaced, with such a lockstitch seam compared to the chainstitch further aesthetic design possibilities opened and much filtersymphatischer is, because they compared to the chainstitch seam much less applying. Therefore, the sewing thread of the invention can be particularly also for sewing several, one above the other Fabric layers are used particularly advantageously.
• the present invention is further based on the object two methods for the preparation of the invention described above Sewing thread to provide a reproducible Make this sewing thread possible.
• Sewing thread provides that two or three yarn components, which are preferably either multifilaments Yarn components or fiber yarn components, independently are pre-rotated from each other, each pre-twisted yarn component a maximum tensile strength between 25% and 85%, preferably between 35% and 70%, and such a forgiving one Stretching between 30% and 95%, preferably between 50% and 80%, the elongation is that of a measuring force is determined, which is 70% of the absolute strength of each Sewing thread corresponds.
• the pre-twisted yarn components become twisted together to form a twist, the thus created yarn thereafter a thermal, preferably one hydrothermal, treatment is subjected.
• hydrothermal Treatment covers any thermal treatment under Addition of water or carried out in an aqueous liquor itself is, so that in particular as a hydrothermal treatment a treatment in a steam atmosphere, preferably in one Saturated steam atmosphere or in a superheated steam atmosphere, or else a treatment in an aqueous liquor, in particular in a dye liquor and / or in an aviation liquor is.
• the first possibility of the invention described above Method has the advantage that with relatively few manufacturing steps a high performance sewing thread made can be. Due to the small number of the inventive Procedure required steps will also reduces the error probability, so that accordingly particularly reproducible and inexpensive the inventive Sewing thread can be produced, which repeats the above has listed advantages, so that to avoid repetition to the above statements on the invention Sewing thread is referenced, the analog or identical on the methods of the invention are to be used.
• the fundamentally second possibility for the production of the invention Procedure provides that here at least two multifilament yarn components are intermingled with each other, wherein at least the core yarn component, but preferably each Yarn component a maximum tensile strength between 25% and 85 %, preferably between 35% and 70%, and such elastic Elongation possesses or own, that between 30% and 95 %, preferably between 50% and 80%, of the elongation is at a measuring force which is 70% of the absolute strength corresponds to the respective Nähgarnes and wherein the swirled Yarn of a thermal, preferably hydrothermal, Treatment is subjected.
• a particularly suitable embodiment of the invention Method provides that in this case for the production of the swirled Sewing thread as first yarn component (core yarn component) a multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber and as second yarn component is a multifilamentary polyethylene terephthalate fiber be selected so that over the cross section of the thus prepared entangled sewing yarn seen the first yarn component, i.e. the multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber, from the second yarn component, i. multifilament polyethylene terephthalate fiber, is largely covered.
• the thermal Treatment and in particular the hydrothermal treatment is carried out to note that this temperature for the respective material above its glass transition temperature and must be below its melting point.
• the thermal treatment and in particular the hydrothermal Treatment that as a particularly suitable embodiment of the inventive method is to be considered in a Effective temperature between 120 ° C and 200 ° C, wherein a related treatment in an aqueous liquor is particularly preferred. This is the effective temperature determined by differential thermal analysis.
• This differential thermal analysis records the partial melting of the the thermal treatment and in particular by the hydrothermal Treatment in fibrous substrate in the non-crystalline Regions formed crystallites in the form of an endothermic peak on, with this endothermic peak then as the effective temperature the respective thermal treatment is defined as in "H.K. Rouette, Lexicon for Textile Finishing, Laumann-Verlag, Dülmen, 1995, Volume 1, pp. 390-392 "and described in detail in the publication H.J. Berndt, Thesis TH Aachen (1971) "Investigation of thermo-mechanically pretreated Polyethylene glycol terephthalate - a contribution to the optimization of Fixing effect and its determination "comprehensively set out.
• the residence time in such a thermal Treatment is to be noted that in this case the residence time in the Treatment medium and in particular in the aqueous liquor in general depends on the selected temperature. At relatively low Temperatures of the treatment medium or the aqueous liquor, so For example, temperatures between 80 ° C and 100 ° C, varies usually the residence time between 30 minutes and 2 hours, while at temperatures between 100 ° C and 130 ° C, the residence time between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours, preferably between 50 minutes and 70 minutes, lies. Clarifyingly, it should be noted that the temperatures specified above the temperatures of the treatment medium and in particular the bath temperatures of the aqueous Specify fleet.
• a development of the method according to the invention provides that here the yarn, be it the twisted sewing thread or the swirled Sewing thread, after the thermal, preferably after the hydrothermal, treatment dyed and / or aviviert. This is then followed in this development of the invention Method of stretching the dyed and / or In particular, by stretching this yarn the proportion of elastic elongation increases and / or the elastic elongation is further stabilized, so that too with repeated loads and subsequent reliefs the Yarn maintains its original elastic behavior. With others Words serve this drawing of the dyed and / or especially for further stabilization the elasticity of the sewing yarn according to the invention.
• this temperature depends on the degree of stabilization desired the tensile elongation, i. thus the elasticity behavior the sewing yarn according to the invention, directed. Especially this stretching takes place in a temperature range between room temperature and 180 ° C, with particular preference a cold stretching, i. thus a draw between 15 ° C and 40 ° C, is performed.
• this force is preferably between 0.2 cN / dtex to 1.5 cN / dtex, in particular between 0.3 cN / dtex and 1 cN / dtex varies, with the values given above the Define forces during the actual drawing process act on the yarn of the invention.
• the Coil a winding density between 350 g / l and 550 g / l, in particular between 400 g / l and 550 g / l.
• inventive Sewing thread or the method according to the invention produced sewing thread preferably for the manufacture of elastic Articles is used.
• inventive Sewing thread or the method according to the invention produced sewing thread for creating lockstitch seams used in elastic garments, with preferred Examples of such elastic Kon Stammionsmaschine above Also referred to as elastic articles.
• the sewing thread of the invention is also used as embroidery thread in a machine creation of embroidery patterns, preferably plastic embroidery patterns in elastic articles, used, as it is also excellent for this application
• Running properties with a minimized susceptibility to interference has mechanical Versticken.
• the pre-twisted rovings were under training a 3-ply twist with a twist of 615 turns / m twisted in Z direction.
• the created thread became direct being wound on a spool on a twisting machine, the winding density was 450 g / l.
• the cheese thus created was then hydrothermal Subjected treatment in an aqueous liquor, wherein the aqueous Fleet consisted solely of water.
• the residence time for this hydrothermal treatment was 60 minutes at one Final temperature of 120 ° C.
• the total strain hereafter referred to as "GD"
• MD the sewing thread and the average of the strains on which the sewing thread is to be determined goes back with every discharge. This mean will be below referred to as "MD”.
• the elastic elongation (ZD) in% is calculated according to the following formula: Toe elastic elongation (ZD) in% GD [%] - MD [%]) x 100 [%] GD [%]
• the measuring principle is based on that the thread to be tested with deducted at a constant speed of 2 m / min, after previously the sewing thread by a loaded tension disc arrangement, like these the usual on sewing machines tension disc assemblies corresponds, has been conducted. This is the force required for the removal of the sewing thread, which in Table 1 is given as a floating value, measured.
• the tension disc arrangement used consists of two, against each other pressed tension discs made of polished stainless steel.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

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Publications (2)

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Citations (9)

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• 2004
  • 2004-04-08 ES ES04008559.9T patent/ES2567435T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2004-04-08 PL PL04008559T patent/PL1479802T3/pl unknown
  • 2004-04-08 DE DE102004018121A patent/DE102004018121A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2004-04-08 EP EP04008559.9A patent/EP1479802B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2004-05-04 US US10/837,756 patent/US6905764B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 2005
  • 2005-03-01 US US11/067,704 patent/US7159379B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime

Patent Citations (9)

Non-Patent Citations (4)

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