Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

• Foaming cosmetic composition based on ellagic acid or one of its derivatives and essential oil.
• the present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition
• a foaming cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof, and at least one essential oil; a cosmetic treatment method implementing said composition and the use of said composition for washing and / or anti-dandruff treatment of keratinous fibers and scalp, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.
• the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics is becoming an important issue for satisfying a new expectation of consumers, in particular that of natural and / or eco-designed products, that is to say, whose design and development accounts for environmental impacts and integrates environmental impacts throughout their life cycle (from raw material, end of life through manufacturing, logistics, distribution and use).
• eco-designed and / or natural cosmetic compositions must meet performance and usage criteria (stability, applicability, safety, etc.).
• anti-dandruff cosmetic compositions available on the market contain piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulphide as anti-dandruff active ingredients. All of these ingredients are effective against dandruff, but are synthetic molecules and considered to be eco-toxic (toxic to aquatic organisms) and / or irritating at high concentrations.
• anti-dandruff and that contain as anti-dandruff agents essential oils, which are natural ingredients, without achieving the level of anti-dandruff performance of synthetic anti-dandruff active, especially in the face of dandruff caused by the excessive proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp.
• the Applicant has now surprisingly found that by using the combination of at least one compound selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and the salts of its ethers in a composition comprising at least an essential oil and at least one foaming agent, it was possible to obtain a cosmetic composition that meets the abovementioned criteria, and in particular to obtain a nontoxic cosmetic composition that is respectful of the environment and that is particularly effective as an anti-dandruff composition, having good dandruff properties. 'use.
• composition according to the invention has a particularly remarkable anti-dandruff efficacy, especially during repeated applications.
• this cosmetic composition is particularly suitable for washing keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair. In fact, it spreads easily on the hair and the scalp and generates a plentiful and soft foam which is easily removed with water and leads to clean, shiny, smooth and soft hair.
• composition according to the invention is stable over time and does not lead to the formation of aggregates.
• she has good storage stability both at room temperature (25 ° C) and at higher temperature (37 or 45 ° C for example).
• the present invention therefore has obj and a cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
• Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the cosmetic anti-dandruff treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for washing keratinous fibers and / or eliminating or reducing scalp dandruff, in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, which implements said composition.
• the invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing keratinous fibers and / or against dandruff, in particular caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, on the scalp.
• composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds (i) chosen from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and the salts of its ethers.
• Ellagic acid also known as: 2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy (1) -benzopyrano (5,4,3-cde) (1) benzopyran-5,10-dione, is a well known and present molecule. in the vegetable kingdom. Reference may be made to the publication of the Merck Index 20th Edition (1 996), No. 3588.
• Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula:
• Ellagic acid is commercially available, in particular from Sigma, France.
• Document FR-A-1 478 523 discloses a process for purifying ellagic acid and the purified ellagic acids obtained by such a process.
• the at least one ellagic acid ethers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of the ellagic acid) of ellagic acid in one or more OR groups, R being chosen from C 2 -C 20 alkyl groups, polyoxyalkylene and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, and groups derived from one or more several mono- or polysaccharides such as, for example, the group of following formula:
• the groups R as defined above may be identical or different.
• ellagic acid ethers are chosen from 3, 4-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3 ', 4-tri-O-methyl ellagic acid and 3,3' acid. -di-O-methyl ellagic.
• the salts or salts of ellagic acid and / or its ethers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium, ammonium salt and amine salts such as triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine salts.
• the salts or salts of ellagic acid and / or its ethers that can be used according to the invention are chosen from the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular the sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts. .
• ellagic acid or one of its salts.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight of compound (s) (i). ), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one essential oil (ii).
• Essential oils are distinguished from vegetable oils by the fact that they can not be broken down by saponification into glycerol and fatty acid soap. Moreover, they are volatile.
• an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation or by dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression).
• the essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition.
• essential oil / vegetable raw material can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.
• the essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part.
• Cade oil is the best known example of this method of production.
• This method of production applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp. ) by mechanical methods at room temperature.
• the principle of the method is as follows: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process.
• the conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After solid waste disposal, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial facilities allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.
• Essential oils are volatile and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble especially in the usual organic solvents, such as those mentioned later among the cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. In addition, they can be dragged with water vapor and very little soluble in water.
• They are composed of molecules with a carbon skeleton, the number of carbon atoms being generally between 5 and 22.
• the main chemical classes of compounds present in essential oils are:
• terpene and sesquiterpenic carbides for example: turpentine essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene,
• esters and alcohols for example:
• mint essential oil mentho l and menthyl acetate
• aldehydes for example:
• cinnamon cinnamic aldehyde
• lemongrass essential oil citral and citronellal the essential oil of eucalyptus citrodora: citronellal
• ketones for example:
• caraway essential oil carvone
• eucalyptus essential oil globulus eucalyptol
• cajeput essential oil eucalyptol
• peroxides for example:
• the essential oils consist of a complex mixture of compounds belonging to these different chemical families.
• the vegetable raw materials used to produce the essential oils are generally plants or parts of plants that are in various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh).
• ylang Apiaceae eg umbelliferae: dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley
• Asteraceae achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse
• Geraniaceae geranium
• Hypericaceae St. John's wort
• Lamiaceae thyme, oregano, monarde, savory, basil, marjaine, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, melissa, rosemary
• Magno liaceae magnolia
• Myrtaceae eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, caj eput, backousia, clove, myrtle
• Thymelaceae agarwood
• Verbenaceae lantana, verbena
• Zingiberaceae galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger
• essential oils that may be used according to the invention, use will be made more preferably of an essential oil selected from the essential oils of:
• the oil or the essential oils are chosen from the essential oils of lemon catnip, clove, lemon balm and green oregano, and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.001 to 10%, in particular from 0.01 to 5%, and more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight of essential oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention therefore does not include anti-dandruff of the family of imidazoles such as econazo le.
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one foaming agent (iii).
• the term “foaming agent” means a compound having a HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) greater than or equal to 8 and preferably greater than or equal to 10.
• HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
• the HLB characterizes the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This concept of HLB is well known to those skilled in the art. It is described in particular in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection "(published by ICI Americas, 1984).
• the foaming agent is characterized by its foaming power.
• the foaming power of the foaming agent can be measured by standard measurement methods well known to those skilled in the art.
• 270 ml of the foaming agent solution are introduced into a double-wall thermostated jar (inner diameter 20 cm, temperature 33 ° C).
• the foam is generated by a rotor consisting of a conventional rod and a circular disc on which are hung 4 perforated triangular plates allowing mechanical introduction of the air bubbles into the solution.
• the rotational speed of the rotor is set at 1100 rpm.
• the generation of foam is evaluated after 3 minutes. Measurements of vo lume foam produced are performed by a cylindrical movable head provided with fifteen needles, capacitive effect sensors.
• the composition according to the invention is also characterized by its foaming power.
• the foaming power of the composition is measured according to the modified Ross Miles method (NF T 73-404).
• the measurement is made at a temperature of 22 ° C with osmosis water.
• the concentration of the solution is 2 g / l.
• the height of the fall is 1 m.
• the amount of composition that drops is 200 ml. These 200 ml of composition falls into a test tube having a diameter of 50 mm and containing 50 ml of the test composition.
• the measurement is made 5 minutes after stopping the flow of the composition.
• the foaming power of the composition is greater than 100 ml, more preferably greater than 200 ml, and more preferably greater than 500 ml.
• the foaming agent (s) used according to the invention are preferably surfactants and may be used interchangeably, alone or in mixtures.
• the foaming agent (s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.
• Foaming agents that are suitable for carrying out the present invention include the following: Anionic surfactant (s):
• anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the groups C0 2 H, C0 2 ⁇ , SO 3 H, SO 3 ", OSO 3 H, OS O3", OPO3H2, OPO3H "OPO3 2".
• anionic surfactants which can be used alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-o-olefinsulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside - polycarboxy
• Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
• Monoesters of salts of C 6 -24 of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from polyglycoside citrates C 6 -24, polyglycosides tartrates alkyl C 6 -24 and polyglycoside-alkyl sulfosuccinates
• agent or the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
• aminoalcohol salts By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made especially of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, the salts of 2-amino-2 methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanedio and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
• the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
• the anionic surfactant (s) used according to the invention may also be chosen from acidic soaps
• the C10-C22 fatty acid soaps consist of the salts of one or more C10-C22 fatty acids.
• alkyl (C 6 -24) sulphates alkyl (C 6 -24) ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol, and alkaline earth metals, acyl (C 6 -24) sarcosinates, acyl (C 6 -24) glutamates, acyl (C 6 -24) isethionates, N-acyl (C 6 -24) taurates, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) amidoéther- carboxylic acids and their salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
• alkyl (C 6 -24) sulphates alkyl (C 6 -24) ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol, and alka
• alkyl (C12-2) sulphates alkyl (C12-2) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
• acyl (C12-2) isethionates especially in the form of salts.
• sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide or lauroyl methyl isethionate.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight of surfactant (s). anionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C12) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 10.
• fatty compound for example a fatty acid
• fatty acid denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 atoms. carbon, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
• nonionic surfactants mentioned that can be used as foaming agents it is preferred to use the optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s) ( s) nonionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• surfactant s
• s surfactant nonionic
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.
• (C 8 -2o) alkyl betaines C 8 -C 20 alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2 -C 8) alkylbetaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamines.
• 8-2 o) amido (C 2 -8) sulphobetaines Preferably, the use is (C 8-2 o) amido (C 2 -8) betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
• R a represents a C 1 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a R a -COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
• Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
• R c represents a carboxymethyl group
• X * represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
• Y * represents -COOH, -COOZ ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 Z',
• Z ' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
• an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
• an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
• R a ' represents a C 1 -C 3 alkyl or alkenyl group of an R a ' COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in oil hydro-lysed lin, an alkyl group, especially C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 group.
• cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
• the compounds corresponding to formula (A1) are preferably used. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) selected from disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphosphiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s) ( s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• surfactant s
• s amphoteric
• zwitterionic s
• cationic surfactant means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
• the cationic surfactant or surfactants that can be used as foaming agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
• the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.
• quaternary ammonium salts there may be mentioned, for example:
• the groups Rs to Ru which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Ru denotes a group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
• the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
• Aliphatic groups are for example selected from alkyl Ci_3o alkoxy Ci_3o, polyoxy (C 2 -C 6) alkylamide Ci_3o, alkyl (Ci2-C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6), alkyl (C 12 - C22 ) acetate, and C1-3 hydroxyalkyl;
• X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, C 1 -C 4 alkyl or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylarylsulfonates.
• tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salt, or stearamidopropyldimethyl salt; - (Myristyl acetate) -ammonium sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds.
• R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow
• R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• R 14 is C 1 -C 4 alkyl
• R 1 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl
• X - is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.
• R 16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
• R 17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the following group:
• R'i6, R'17, R'18, Ris, R19, R20 and R 2 i which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " and Y "are anions chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and alkyl (Ci-C6) sulfates particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
• Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium-89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium-75), the Condicate CT proposed by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS (Quaternium-75). );
• R22 is selected from alkyl groups, C i -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, C i -C 6 alkyl;
• R23 is selected from:
• R27 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups
• R25 is selected from:
• R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups
• R24, R26 and R 2 8 identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups C 7 -C 2 1 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
• r, s and t are integers ranging from 2 to
• y is an integer from 1 to 10;
• x and z are integers ranging from 0 to
• X " is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is
• the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
• R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
• the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
• R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably
• R 24, R 26 and R 2 8, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups C n -C 2 1 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, more particularly from alkyl and alkenyl groups C n - C 2 1 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
• x and z are 0 or 1.
• y is 1.
• r, s and t which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
• the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate, but methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-function ammonium.
• the anion X - is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.
• R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
• x and y are equal to 1;
• z is 0 or 1;
• R25 is selected from:
• R24, R26 and R 2 are selected from hydrocarbon groups C 1 3 -C 1 7, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl groups and alkenyl C 13 - C 17 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
• the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
• the compounds of formula (A6) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.
• the acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.
• alkylating agent such as alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco or glycerol chlorohydrin.
• Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 1 8 by the company REWO-WITCO.
• composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
• acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate a mixture of ammonium salts
• the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil.
• ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-41371 80.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of surfactant (s). (s) cationic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of foaming agents of at least 4% by weight. More preferably, it comprises a total content of foaming agents ranging from 4 to 50% by weight, in particular from 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the agent or foaming agents are chosen from anionic surfactants, preferably those mentioned above.
• the agent or the foaming agents are chosen from nonionic surfactants, preferably optionally (C 8 -2o) polyglycosides optionally oxyalkylenated.
• the foaming agent is a mixture of anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such that the anionic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from (C) alkyls.
• the foaming agent is a mixture of anionic surfactants, and amphoteric or zwitterionic agents, such that the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl (C 1-4) sulphates. and alkyl (C 1 2 - 1 4) ether sulphates and acyl (C 8 -2) isethionates, especially in the form of sodium salts comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; and such that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoamphodiacetates, in particular in the form of sodium salts, and (C 8 -2 20) alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines.
• anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl (C 1-4) sulphates. and alkyl (C 1 2 - 1 4) ether sulphates and acyl (C 8 -2) isethionates, especially in the form of sodium salts comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide
• the concentrations of surfactant (s) anionic (s), surfactant (s) surfactant (s) optionally present (s), and in amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s) optionally present (s), may be as described above.
• the total content of surfactant (s) anionic (s) and amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), and agent (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) when ( s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 4 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more thickening agents.
• the thickening agent (s) may be chosen from nonionic cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), cellulosic anionic thickeners such as carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gum microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), PEG (polyethylene glycols) of fatty acid ester and PEG derivatives of fatty acid ester such as those known as INCI PEG - 150 distearate and PEG Propylene glycool leate, crosslinked or uncrosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, associative polymers as described below, and mixtures thereof.
• nonionic cellulosic thickeners hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
• the crosslinked or noncrosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid are, in particular, homopolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid such as NOVEON Carbopol 980 and methacrylic acid copolymers. and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate such as in particular Carbopol Aqua SF 1 Polymer sold by the company Lubrizo l (INCI: acrylate copolymer).
• the associative polymer (s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
• Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the associative polymer or polymers that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
• PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
• the thickener (s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, and / or fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid.
• the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight of thickening agent (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• thickening agent s
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conditioning agents.
• conditioning agent is meant according to the present invention any compound for improving the cosmetic properties of hair, particularly softness, disentangling, touch, static electricity.
• the conditioning agent is chosen from the group comprising cationic polymers, surfactants cationic agents different from the foaming agents used according to the invention, silicones such as organosiloxanes, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbons, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and of C1-C30 alcohol and in particular the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of C8-C30 fatty alcohol, the C8-C30 fatty acid or diacid esters and the C8-C30 fatty alcohol esters; ceramides or ceramide analogues, non-volatile vegetable oils and mixtures of these compounds.
• silicones such as organosiloxanes, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbons, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and of C1-C30 alcohol and in particular the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of C8-C30
• cationic polymer means a positively charged polymer when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This polymer may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
• the cationic polymer or polymers which can be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.
• the conditioning agent is a cationic polymer
• it is preferably chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a polymer. lateral substituent directly connected to it.
• cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products. They are for example described in French Patent Nos . 2505348 and 2542997.
• R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
• R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
• A represent a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• R 6 , R 7 , R 8 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
• X " means an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
• the copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C 1 -C). 4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
• comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C 1 -C). 4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
• copolymers of the family (1) mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
• dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by the company ISP.
• crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
• a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
• This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA.
• a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride for example dispersed in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
• polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers.
• Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;
• water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by a epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-halo acyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacylamine, bis-haloalkyl, epihalohydrin, difunctional reactive compound a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tert
• polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denote the ethylene group.
• adipic acid dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denote the ethylene group.
• Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,583,363.
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; the resultant polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin per relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1.
• Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
• Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name “PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
• Ri 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• Ri o and Ru independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C 1 -C 4), or R 1 and R 3 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl
• Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate
• Rio and Ru independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon
• R13, Ri4, Ris and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups (C1-C4), or R13, R14, R15 and Ri 6 together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R 6 represent an alkyl group Ci-C 6, linear or branched, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group, or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene having 1 to 10 carbon atoms and D is an ammonium group quaternary;
• Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide groups, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
• a 1, R 13 and R 15 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B i may also designate a group
• n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20,
• a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
• X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• These polymers have a mean molecular weight in number generally between 1,000 and 100,000.
• Ri s, R19, R20 and R 2 i which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
• R22, R23, R24 and R 25, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) p OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R 22 , R 23 , R 24 and R 25 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
• t and u are integers between 1 and 6,
• v is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34
• X " denotes an anion such as a halo génure
• A is a group of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
• cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic galactomannan gums.
• cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and galactomannan gums. cationic.
• Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,135,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- grafted celluloses in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
• the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
• guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.
• cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates. , quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• the proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins are in particular chemically modified polypeptides carrying at the end of the chain, or grafted onto it, quaternary ammonium groups.
• Their molecular weight may vary for example from 1500 to 10000, and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately.
• triethylammonium-containing collagen hydrolysates such as the products sold under the name “Quat-Pro E” by the company MAYBROOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate";
• hydrolysates of animal proteins bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups such as the products sold under the name “Crotein BTA” by the company CRODA and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein”; protein hydrolysates carrying, on the polypeptide chain, quaternary ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
• Cyquat M the quaternary ammonium groups of which contain C 1 -C 18 alkyl groups
• Crotein Q whose quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
• quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to formula (X):
• X " is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid
• A denotes a protein residue derived from protein hydrolyzates of co 11 agene
• R2 denotes a lipophilic group having up to 30 carbon atoms
• R 30 represents an alkylene group
• quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, corn or soy protein: as quaternized wheat proteins
• cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the cationic cyclopolymers as defined above, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names "Merquat”. 100 “,” MERQUAT 550 “and” MERQUAT S “by NALCO, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
• cyclopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 31 09®” sold by UNION CARBIDE, which is a cyclocopolymer dimethylsiloxane / methyloctylsiloxane;
• polyalkylsiloxanes consist mainly of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes, as well as mixtures thereof. They can be in the form of oils, gums and resins.
• polyalkylsiloxanes mention may be made mainly of linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 5. 10 6 m 2 / s and preferably less than 2.6 m 2 / s is:
• trimethylsilyl end groups for example, and without limitation, the "SILBIONE®” oils of the 70047 series sold by the company RHONE POULENC, the Wacker Belsil DM 60000 oil from Wacker or certain "VISCASIL®” from the GENERAL ELECTRIC company,
• polyalkylsiloxanes sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABILWAX 9800®” and “ABILWAX 9801®", which are polyalkyl (C 1-20 ) siloxanes.
• polydimethylphenylsiloxanes linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of from 10 5 to 5 10 2 m 2 / s, such as, for example:
• PK series silicones from BAYER such as "PK20®”
• the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the "PN 1000®” and "PH 1000®”
• the silicone gums according to the present invention are polydiorganosiloxanes having a high average molecular mass of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent chosen from voilesilicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or mixtures thereof.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxane oils
• PPMS polyphenylmethylsiloxane
• isoparaffins methylene chloride
• pentane dodecane
• tridecane tridecane
• tetradecane or mixtures thereof.
• SF 1236® is the mixture of a "SE 30®” gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and a “SF 96®” oil with a viscosity of 5. 10 6 m 2 / s (15% "SE 30®” gum and 85% "SF 96®” oil).
• the product “CF 1241®” is the mixture of a gum “SE 30®” (33%) and a PDMS (67%) of viscosity 10 "3 m 2 / s.
• the organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 S 1 O 2/2, RS 1 O 3/2 and S 1 O 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
• R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
• R denotes a lower (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group or a phenyl group.
• organomodified silicones are silicones as defined above, comprising in their general structure, one or more organo-functional groups directly attached to the siloxane chain or attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
• silicones comprising:
• perfluorinated groups such as trifluoroalkyls, for example those sold by the company General Electric under the names "FF 150 FLUOROSILICONE FLUID®” or by SHIN ETSU under the names "X-22-8 19®”; , “X-22-82®”, “X-22-821®” and “X-22-822®”;
• hydroxyacylamino groups such as, for example, those described in patent application EP 0 342 834 and in particularly the silicone sold by Dow Corning under the name "Q2-8413®";
• non-quaternized amine groups as in "GP 4 Silicone Fluid®” from Genesee, the “GP 7100®” from Genesee, the “Q2 8220®” from Dow Corning, 1 * "AFL 40®” from UNION CARBIDE or the silicone called “Amodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary; e) carboxylate groups, such as the products described in EP 1 86 507 of CHISSO CORPORATION;
• hydroxyl groups such as hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes, described in patent application FR 85 16334.
• the product marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 190 may be particularly cited.
• alkoxylated groups such as in the silicone copolymer "F 755 ®” from SWS SILICONES and the products "ABILWAX 2428®”, “ABILWAX 2434®”, “ABILWAX 2440®” from the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
• acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganopolysiloxanes described in the patent application FR 88 17433;
• amphoteric or betaine groups such as in the product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name "ABIL B 9950®";
• polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 1 2 ) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200.
• silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain.
• These polymers are for example described in the patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-4 12 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US Patents 4,693, 935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037.
• These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic.
• Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture consisting of:
• v being a number from 5 to 700; the percentages by weight being calculated with respect to the total weight of the monomers.
• grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the type alkyl poly (meth) acrylate; polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by by means of a thiopropylene type connecting link, po lymeric units of the isobutyl po (meth) acrylate type.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.
• the most preferred polyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are:
• non-silicone silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C., such as the oils of the DC200 series of Dow; CORNING in particular that of viscosity 60,000 cSt, SILBIONE series 70047 and 47 and more particularly 70 047 V 500 000 oil marketed by Rhodia Chimie, the polyalkylsiloxanes dimethylsilano end groups such as dimethicono l or po lyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil marketed by Rhodia Chimie;
• polysiloxanes with amino groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamo dimethicone.
• the viscosities of the silicones may in particular be determined by the ASTM D445 -97 (viscometry) standard.
• the conditioning agent of the composition according to the invention is a hydrocarbon, it is a hydrocarbon, linear or branched C 8 -C 30.
• hydrocarbons which are liquid at ambient temperature and which correspond to this definition, mention may notably be made of isododecane, isohexadecane and its isomers (such as 2,2,4,4,6,6-heptamethylnonane) and iso-eicosane.
• isotetracosane the isomers of said compounds, n-nonadecane, n-dodecane, n-undecane, n-tridecane, n-pentadecane, and mixtures of these hydrocarbons.
• Isododecane or one of its isomers is preferably used according to the invention.
• the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type.
• the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type.
• the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type.
• the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type.
• the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type.
• butyl-2-octanol lauric alcohol
• 2-octyl dodecanol oleic alcohol
• isocetyl alcohol isostearyl alcohol
• behenyl alcohol behenyl
• the conditioning agent when it is a fatty ester, it may be either an ester of a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid and of C 1 -C 30 alcohol, and in particular a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid ester and fatty alcohol C 8 - C 30 or an ester of a dibasic acid or C1-C7 and a fatty alcohol C 8 -C 30.
• esters mention may be made, for example, of ethyl, isopropyl, ethyl-2-hexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, of isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl-2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl malate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
• Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which can be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules which can meet the following general formula (XII):
• R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a fatty acid; saturated or unsaturated C16-C30;
• - R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
• R 3 denotes a C 5 -C 26 hydrocarbon-based group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl groups;
• R 3 may also designate a C 5 -C 26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C 6 -C 3 ⁇ -hydroxyacid.
• Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 138 1 - 1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
• the most preferred ceramides or ceramides according to the invention are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R 3 denotes a linear group saturated with C 1 5 .
• Such compounds are for example:
• conditioning agents By way of example, mention may be made of the product consisting of a mixture of these compounds sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES.
• these conditioning agents one or more conditioning agents chosen from silicones such as organosiloxanes and cationic polymers are preferably used.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably contains from 0.01 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight of conditioning agent (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant other than the foaming agents defined above.
• additional surfactants may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, or cationic.
• the additional surfactant (s) may be chosen for example from emulsifying surfactants and foam boosters or foam synergists.
• emulsifying surfactants and foam boosters that can be used in the composition of the invention are cited in particular in the CTFA (2004 Edition) under the heading "surfactants - emulsifying agents" and "surfactants - fo am booster”.
• emulsifying surfactants there may be mentioned in particular the compounds known under the INCI names sucrose laurate, glyceryl caprylate and polyglyceryl-4 caprate.
• fatty acid alkanoamides preferably having a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular coconut acid monoethanolamide or monoisopropanoamide of coconut acid. copra.
• composition according to the invention is generally used for topical application.
• composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application.
• the composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed.
• the composition is rinsed after application.
• the composition according to the invention may be a cream, a gel or a foam.
• composition according to the invention can be used as a shampoo, or a shower gel, and even better as a shampoo.
• composition according to the invention may be packaged in a pressurized composition such as an aerosol or in a pump bottle.
• composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
• the medium consists of water and optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
• the organic solvent (s) may be selected from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanedio, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanedio) and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and their mixtures.
• C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
• polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanedio, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanedio) and polyethylene glycols
• polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether
• the medium comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent
• it may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7. This pH may be adjusted by means of acidifying agents and basifying agents, conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
• the cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic field, such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, vegetable oils, animal oils and mineral oils. or synthetic materials other than essential oils, waxes, sun filters, inorganic or organic pigments, colored or uncoloured, coloring agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, agents soils, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
• adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic field, such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, vegetable oils, animal oils and mineral oils. or synthetic materials other than essential oils, waxes, sun filters, inorganic or organic pigments, colored or uncoloured, coloring agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, agents soils, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes,
• Another subject of the invention consists in a process for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the application of a foaming composition according to the invention to the scalp and said keratinous fibers. After a possible pause time preferably ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, the composition is then preferably rinsed with water.
• said method is intended for washing said keratinous fibers and / or anti-dandruff treatment for eliminating and / or reducing dandruff, and in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia.
• the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for washing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.
• composition according to the invention for antidandruff treatment for eliminating and / or reducing dandruff, and in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia.
• the following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol 980
• Citric acid 1H 2 0 qs pH 5 -5, 5

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• 2010
  • 2010-05-07 FR FR1053600A patent/FR2959666B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2011
  • 2011-05-06 EP EP11718101A patent/EP2566444A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2011-05-06 CN CN2011800230281A patent/CN102883706A/zh active Pending
  • 2011-05-06 WO PCT/EP2011/057348 patent/WO2011138450A2/fr not_active Ceased

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