Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
  • D04B1/265—Surgical stockings
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
  • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
  • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
  • D10B2501/043—Footwear
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2505/00—Industrial
  • D10B2505/02—Reinforcing materials; Prepregs

Definitions

• the invention relates to the technical field of circular knitting, and more particularly to the circular knitting of footwear.
• reinforcing yarns it is known to add additional yarns, called reinforcing yarns, in certain areas of the knit, so that the knit contains more material in these areas. These are dense areas.
• the reinforcing threads are used only within the dense zones of the knit. When not in use, they must be retained in a so-called standby position within the knitting machine.
• the yarns of the knit which are in the waiting position (A) are retained by a brake plate (4) which comes pinch the wires. It can be seen that if the knit contains a high number of yarns, the brake plate must consequently retain a high number of yarns.
• One of the aims of the invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art, by proposing an industrial and optimized knitting process making it possible to obtain dense areas on a knit. These dense areas can be used to opacify the knit in certain specific places and thus create shapes for aesthetic purposes or to reinforce the knit so that it is more resistant to wear.
• a method for circular knitting of a knit with a knitting machine, in which the circular knit is formed of a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a stitch yarn, and includes at least one dense area.
• the dense zone or zones of the circular knit have an alternation, at each row of stitches, of a first row of stockinette stitches and of a second row of stockinette stitches, such as:
• the first row of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a first selection of needles, comprising at least one loaded stitch within the row of stockinette stitches, so as to form binding stitches with the inter-stitch loops of the second row of stockinette stitches,
• the second row of stockinette stitches is knitted using a second selection of needles, including the knitting of a reinforcing yarn in addition to the stitch yarn.
• the knitting of a loaded stitch is preferably carried out every other stitch, within the first row of stitches. This of course at the level of the dense zone. This preferential mode makes it possible to tighten the rows of stitches so as to obtain a satisfactory level of density.
• the knitting of a loaded stitch can be performed one stitch out of three or one stitch out of four or one stitch out of five within the first row of stitches.
• the difference in density between the dense zones and the non-dense zones formed on a basic jersey knit is notable.
• the ratio of the density of a dense area formed on a weft knit to that of a non-dense area formed on a weft knit is believed to be about 20%.
• the ratio of the density of a dense area formed on an unscreened knit to that of a non-dense area formed on an unscreened knit is believed to be about 20%.
• the size of the dense zone depends on the number of rows and columns knitted with this process.
• the method may further comprise the knitting of a weft thread between each row of stitches. This aspect will be detailed later in this text.
• the dense zones are used to opacify the knitting at certain specific places and thus create shapes for aesthetic purposes.
• the dense zones are produced so that the latter create uniform geometric shapes (the geometric shapes are identical or similar) dispersed in a regular manner over the surface of the knit, and the total surface of the dense zones of which is less than 10% of the surface. total of the knit, and preferably less than or equal to 5% of the total surface of the knit. For example, it is possible to obtain a satin effect directly by knitting, without it being necessary to embroider the geometric shapes on the knit.
• the method may further comprise the knitting of a weft thread between the rows of stitches.
• This weft yarn makes it possible to confer additional properties on the knit, such as better stability, greater elastic resistance or a different feel or visual appearance.
• the addition of a weft yarn makes it possible to control the elasticity of a textile article, in particular of a compression and/or compression article, by giving it greater elastic resistance. It is specified that, according to the ISO 8388 standard, the so-called basic knitting on a circular loom is defined as being the knitting on all the needles called “plain jersey knitting” without weft.
• weft row The space between the rows of stitches where the weft thread is inserted.
• the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by making a float which corresponds to the needle which has knitted a stitch on the first row of stitches. Therefore, the weft thread is located between the first row of stitches and the second row of stitches and also between the second row of stitches and the first row of stitches. The weft yarn is picked up only every other needle. There is thus a column alignment between the stitch of the first row of stitches and the float of the weft row.
• the floats of the weft thread are made in staggered rows (i.e. on the opposite needles, or even staggered) in relation to the following row of weft.
• the floats are made offset from each other, from one row of weft to another, so that this creates an alternation at each row of weft, fillers and floats according to a same column. A uniform and smooth appearance is thus obtained, without a ribbed appearance.
• the weft thread is inserted between each row of stitches, by making two or three or four consecutive floats which correspond to the needles which have knitted a stitch on the first row of stitches.
• the weft yarn is picked up only one out of three needles or one out of four needles or one out of five needles respectively.
• the floats of the weft yarn are made in staggered rows with respect to the following row of wefts, so as to offset the floats with respect to each other from one row of weft to another. We thus obtain floats, on several columns, offset from each other from one row of weft to another, without overlap.
• the invention also relates to a knit provided with at least one dense zone according to the aforementioned technical characteristics.
• the invention also relates to a textile article comprising at least one knit provided with at least one dense zone according to the aforementioned technical characteristics.
• the article is a stocking, tights or a sock.
• it is a compression and/or compression article, the article then being intended for medical use.
• the dense areas are used to reinforce the knit so that it is more resistant to wear.
• the dense zone or zones are preferably produced on a surface of the article in contact with the heel and/or a surface of the article in contact with the toes and/or a lower surface of the foot of an individual when the article is worn by an individual.
• the knit necessarily comprises a weft yarn.
• the weft thread is inserted between each row of stitches, making a float which corresponds to the needle which has knitted a load on the first row of stitches. Therefore, the weft thread is located between the first row of stitches and the second row of stitches and also between the second row of stitches and the first row of stitches.
• the weft yarn is picked up only every other needle. There is thus a column alignment between the load of the first row of stitches and the float of the weft row.
• the weft yarn floats are made in the same columns from one weft row to the next. In other words, the floats are made in the same columns, at each frame row, so as to align the said floats. This alignment gives a ribbed appearance and provides better knit strength.
• the weft thread is inserted between each row of stitches, by making two or three or four consecutive floats which correspond to the needles which have knitted a load on the first row of stitches.
• the weft yarn is picked up respectively only one out of three needles or one out of four needles or one out of five needles.
• the floats of the weft yarn are made in the same columns from one row of weft to another, so as to align the floats with respect to each other.
• the invention also relates to a knit provided with at least one dense zone according to the aforementioned technical characteristics.
• the invention also relates to a textile article comprising at least one knit provided with at least one dense zone according to the aforementioned technical characteristics.
• the article is a stocking, tights or a sock.
• the textile article comprises at least one knit provided with at least one dense zone according to the second use described above, in which the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches.
• Said article is stockings, tights or a sock, and the dense zone or zones are located on a surface of the article in contact with the heel and/or a surface of the article in contact with the toes and/or a surface in contact with the lower surface of an individual's foot when the article is worn by an individual.
• the textile article is necessarily a compression and/or compression article, for example for medical purposes because the knit constituting the article comprises a weft yarn.
• Figure 1 is a partial view of a circular knitting machine.
• Figure 2 is a detail view of the machine of Figure 1.
• Figure 3 is a representation of a combination of needle selections used during the method according to the invention.
• Figure 4 is a representation of a combination of selections of needles used during the method according to the invention to form dense zones used to opacify the knitting at certain specific places and thus create shapes for aesthetic purposes.
• Figure 5 is a representation of the repetition of the geometric shapes created by the dense areas for aesthetic purposes on a knit according to the invention.
• Figure 6 is a repetition of dense areas of circular shape created by dense areas for aesthetic purposes on a knit a knit according to the invention.
• Figure 7 is a repetition of dense areas of triangular shape created by dense areas for aesthetic purposes on a knit on another knit according to the invention.
• Figure 8 is a representation of a combination of needle selections used during the method according to the invention to form dense areas used to reinforce the knit in order to make it more resistant to wear.
• Figure 9 is a microscopic view of a knit outside of the dense areas.
• Figure 10A is a microscopic view of the outer face of a knit within a dense zone used to reinforce the knit.
• Figure 10B is a microscopic view of the inside face of a knit within a dense zone used to reinforce the knit.
• Figure 11 is a partial view of the shape of the dense area used to reinforce the knit in an article of footwear.
• Figure 12 is a diagram of an article of footwear according to the invention.
• Figure 13 is a diagram of another article of footwear according to the invention.
• Figure 14 is a representation of the front view of the stitch pattern of the knit of Figure 8.
• Figure 15 is a representation of the back view of the stitch pattern of the knit of Figure 8.
• the invention relates to a circular knitting process, a circular knit (1), as well as a textile article (3) incorporating such a circular knit (1).
• a combination of needle selections used is shown in Figure 3: it includes knitting an alternating first row of stockinette stitches (M1) and a second row of stockinette stitches (M2).
• the rows of stitches (M1, M2) are knitted using any suitable yarn.
• the knit yarn (5) may in particular be a single wrapped or double wrapped yarn, for example comprising a core yarn in elastane and coating yarns in polyamide.
• the two wrapping yarns preferably have reversed false twist directions.
• the reinforcing thread (6) can be of any suitable type.
• a preferred reinforcing yarn (6) is a 13-filament, false-twist polyamide yarn with a count of 44 dtex.
• the positions (m) are those where the needles of the machine rise in ascent to come to knit only the stitch thread (5), and carry out stockinette stitches;
• the positions (r) are those where the needles rise in full ascent to knit the mesh yarn (5) as well as the reinforcing yarn (6);
• the positions (c) are those where the needles rise half way up to pick up the stitch yarn and make loaded stitches, in order to form upper binding stitches with the interstitch loops of the row of stitches next.
• the mesh yarn (5) and the reinforcing yarn (6) inserted in the second row of stitches (M2) are knitted by the needles of the stitches in charge of the first row of stitches (M1) .
• the rows (M1, M2) are therefore close to each other.
• one out of two stitches of the first row of stitches (M1) of the dense zone (2) is a loaded stitch (c) to tighten the rows of stitches in order to to obtain a satisfactory level of density.
• the dense areas (2) obtained by the invention have a greater thickness than the rest of the knit (1).
• the dense areas (2) obtained by the invention have a greater thickness than the rest of the knit (1).
• a satin stitch is traditionally obtained by embroidering a thread on a textile article, so as to obtain small dots in relief.
• the dots in relief are small.
• the total surface of the zones dense (2) is less than 20% of the total surface of the knit (1), or even less than 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 5%.
• Figure 5 shows the repetition of geometric shapes in which the dense areas (2) of Figure 4 are arranged regularly on the knit (1). It can be a rectangular matrix of variable height or width, or successive staggered rows as shown.
• the knit (1) obtained with such a repetition of geometric shapes has a satin effect, directly from the knitting machine. The advantage obtained is therefore economical, since it is possible to dispense with an additional manufacturing step.
• the person skilled in the art understands that the dense zones created by means of the selection of the needles represented in FIG. 5 require in practice the creation of a specific design representing the ratio and the shape of the desired pattern.
• This design is converted according to the computer extension recognized by the single-cylinder knitting machine used, and associated with its knitting program to obtain the repetition or repetitions of the desired pattern shapes.
• the ratio of the predetermined pattern makes it possible to repeat the pattern in a regular manner both on the circumference and on a length of the desired product according to the desired design (as shown in FIG. 6).
• the “uniform” aspect of the geometric shapes results in an identical visual effect for each of the dense zones, insofar as the latter are obtained from the same selections of needles.
• the “regular” dispersion of said dense zones results in an identical distance between each dense zone and the neighboring dense zones, insofar as the same pattern is repeated on the knitting thanks to the computer software.
• the geometric shape of the dense zone (2) to be repeated to obtain the satin effect can be adapted according to aesthetic needs.
• the dense area can be circular, oval, rectangular, or any other desired shape.
• the regular distribution of the dense zones (2) on the knit (1) can include, for example, symmetries or rotations.
• - Figure 6 shows the repetition of dense areas of circular shape, as found on traditional satin
• - Figure 7 shows the repetition of dense areas of triangular shape, in which the geometric shapes are rotated 180 ° every other time along a row.
• the combination of needle selections may further comprise a row (T) in which a weft thread (7) is knitted.
• T a row in which a weft thread (7) is knitted.
• M1 the first row of stitches
• T the weft row
• M2 the second row of stitches
• T a weft row
• the weft yarn (7) is used to give particular properties to the knit (1), and can be of any type suitable for this purpose.
• a weft thread makes it possible to control the elasticity of a textile article, in particular of a compression and/or compression article, by giving it greater elastic resistance. It can then be a single covered or double covered yarn, for example with a core yarn in elastane and wrapping yarns in polyamide.
• the core yarn is a 310 dtex spandex yarn, and double covered with wrapping yarns in polyamide of 22 dtex yarn count, comprising 20 filaments, and with false twist.
• the two wrapping yarns preferably have reversed false twist directions.
• positions (i) are those where the needles are inactive, that is to say that the weft yarn (7) is not picked by the needles and makes a float on the knit (1).
• the reinforcing yarn (6) of the second row of stitches (M2) is gathered at positions (c) with the stitch yarn (5) of the following row of stitches (M1).
• a functionalized knit (1) for example in a compression and/or compression article having a higher elastic resistance, further comprising dense zones (2) which are clearly denser than the rest of the knit (1) and which have a satisfactory aesthetic when worn, that is to say that there are no scratches or streaks despite the fact that the reinforcing thread (6) is inserted every other row of stitches.
• the space between the rows of stitches (M1, M2) where the weft thread is inserted is called the "weft row" (T).
• the weft yarn (T) is inserted between each row of stitches, by making a float (i) which corresponds to the needle that has knitted a stitch (m) on the first row of stitches (M1). Therefore, the weft yarn is between the first row of stitches (M1) and the second row of stitches (M2) and also between the second row of stitches (M2) and the first row of stitches (M1)., The weft thread (7) is picked up only one out of two needles.
• the textile article (3) can be a compression and/or compression article, for example for medical purposes.
• the knit (1) constituting the article preferably comprises a weft yarn (7).
• the textile article (3) can also be a city stocking or a city sock or city tights, that is to say the use of which is not for medical purposes.
• the knit generally does not include a weft yarn (7).
• the dense areas are used to reinforce the knit. The improvement in resistance is particularly advantageous in regions of the knit subject to high mechanical stresses when the article is worn, for example the sole for a sock.
• FIG. 11 is a partial view of the shape of the dense zone of the knit (1) intended for making a textile article (3) as illustrated in FIG. 12.
• a dense zone (2) of large dimension is provided over the entire surface coming into contact with the heel, the arch of the foot and the toes of an individual intended to wear the article.
• the textile article (3) illustrated is a sock, but is not limited to the latter. It may for example be a sock, a stocking, or even tights.
• the area dense (2) of large size illustrated therefore reinforces the textile article (3) at the places where it is most subject to wear, in this specific case when walking.
• Figure 13 illustrates another textile article (3) comprising a knit (1) and two dense zones (2) reinforcing said knit (1) at sensitive locations, provided on the surfaces intended to come into contact with the heel and the toes of an individual's foot.
• the knit necessarily comprises a weft yarn.
• the weft thread (7) is used to impart particular properties to the knit (1), and can be of any type suitable for this purpose.
• the addition of a weft thread makes it possible to control the elasticity of a textile article, in particular of a compression and/or compression article, by giving it greater elastic resistance. It can then be a single covered or double covered yarn, for example with a core yarn in elastane and wrapping yarns in polyamide.
• the core yarn is a 310 dtex elastane yarn, double covered with wrapping yarns in 22 dtex yarn polyamide, comprising 20 filaments, and false twist.
• the two wrapping yarns preferably have reversed false twist directions.
• the weft thread (T) is inserted between each row of stitches, making a float (i) which corresponds to the needle which has knitted a filler (c) on the first row of stitches (M1). Therefore, the weft thread is between the first row of stitches (M1) and the second row of stitches (M2) and also between the second row of stitches (M2) and the first row of stitches (M1).
• the weft yarn (T) is only picked up every other needle. There is thus a column alignment between the load (c) of the first row of stitches (M1) and the float (i) of the weft row (T).
• the floats of the weft yarn (i) are made in the same columns on each row of weft (T) In other words, the floats are made in the same columns, at each row of weft (T) so that the the alignment of these gives a ribbed appearance and makes it possible to obtain a better resistance of the knitting.
• Figures 9, 10A and 10B illustrate microscopic views of the knit (1) according to the selections of the needles of Figure 8.
• Figure 9 is a view outside a dense zone (2)
• Figures 10A and 10B are views within a dense zone used to reinforce the knit (2).
• the knit (1) comprising only jersey stitches made by the stitch yarn (5), and the weft yarn (7) making a float between two stitches, the latter not being plucked only one out of two shots.
• the knit (1) is relatively fine and smooth.
• Figure 14 is a representation of the front view of the knit of Figure 8, that is to say on the outside and therefore visible when the knit is worn.
• Figure 15 is a representation of the back view of the knit of Figure 8, that is to say the inner side facing the wearer when the knit is worn.
• the textile article (3) is necessarily a compression and/or compression article, for example for medical purposes because the knit (1) constituting the article comprises a weft thread (7).
• the textile article (3) thus produced is reinforced at its most stressed areas and therefore subject to wear.
• the textile article (3) according to the invention therefore has an increased longevity, without however increasing its manufacturing cost because the knitting process according to the invention does not impact the production rates or the scrap rates unlike the processes of the prior art.
• the combination of selections of the needles can comprise another alternation of rows of stitches and weft.
• the rhythm can be:
• the yarns used can be adapted to the intended application for knitting (1). Their titrations, compositions and material(s) may therefore be different.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (3)

Family

ID=77226950

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (7)

Family Cites Families (7)

• 2021
  • 2021-07-13 FR FR2107610A patent/FR3125302B1/fr active Active
• 2022
  • 2022-07-12 EP EP22741773.0A patent/EP4341475B1/de active Active
  • 2022-07-12 MX MX2023015091A patent/MX2023015091A/es unknown
  • 2022-07-12 WO PCT/EP2022/069512 patent/WO2023285488A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2022-07-12 CA CA3220867A patent/CA3220867A1/fr active Pending
  • 2022-07-12 US US18/567,443 patent/US20240271340A1/en active Pending
  • 2022-07-12 AU AU2022311503A patent/AU2022311503A1/en active Pending

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