JPH0241423A - Production of false-twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject finished yarn having bulkiness without deteriorating the gloss, draping property, etc., by specifying the feeding rate of false- twisting process in the false-twisting of a regenerated cellulose filament yarn. CONSTITUTION:The objective finished yarn having a crimp shape coefficient (uncrimping extension/number of crimps of the false-twisted yarn) of 0.02-0.20 is produced by false-twisting a regenerated cellulose filament yarn at a feeding ratio of 0 to -2%, a temperature of 100-250 deg.C, a number of twist (T) of the value defined by the formula (D is denier of supplied yarn) and a heating time of 0.3-1.5sec.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention is a bulky processed yarn suitable for all fields in which regenerated cellulose fibers are used, such as clothing, bedding, materials, etc. The present invention relates to a method for producing false twisted yarn that has bulkiness without impairing the luster, texture, coolness, and drape properties of the yarn.

[Conventional technology]

Bulky textured yarns are often used in various types of clothing due to their unique elasticity, bulky texture, etc., and various methods are conventionally known as methods for bulking them. For example, in the case of synthetic fibers, there is a method that uses thermoplasticity to mechanically crimp and then heat centrifuges, or a method that focuses on the stretching and shrinkage behavior of synthetic fibers.
There are methods of imparting crimpability by stretching or heat shrinking the fibers made of the components, and others. All of these are based on the characteristics of the fiber constituent materials.

On the other hand, cellulose-based artificial fibers, which are called non-thermoplastic fibers, are given bulk by a heating-heat-setting-untwisting method. For example, Tokuko Sho 13-533
No. 0 discloses a technique for improving the durability of crimps by subjecting them to salt bath treatment after heating and steam setting and untwisting. In addition, Japanese Patent Publication No. 31-1950 describes a method of shortening the process by dyeing at the same time as heat fixing during the heating-heat-setting-untwisting process, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 35-11495 describes a method for shortening the process by dyeing at the same time as heat fixing during the heating-heat-setting-untwisting process. A method of untwisting the acetylated acetate obtained by acetylation after a two-stage treatment of heating and heat fixing,
Further, JP-A No. 49-134960 discloses a method of heating, followed by alkali treatment and treatment with a resin that imparts wrinkle resistance when wet, followed by untwisting.

However, the bulky textured yarns obtained by these methods have high crimpability and high crimping recovery and durability, resulting in extremely bulky crimped yarns similar to wool. However, the properties of regenerated cellulose fibers, such as luster, coolness, and drapability, which are inherently superior to other fibers, have simply been eliminated. In other words, the main focus of these known techniques is to give cellulose fibers the same bulkiness and wool-like texture and appearance as synthetic fibers, and how to improve the solidity of single-layer shrinkage. This is something that we focused on. Therefore, all of the above-mentioned techniques attempt to improve the purpose of the crimp fixing method using the heating-fixing-untwisting method by, for example, thermal treatment, resin fixation, chemical treatment with alkali, etc. Therefore, it is not suitable for various woven and knitted fabrics and fabric fields that require the characteristics of regenerated cellulose fibers and bulkiness. That is, no method has yet been proposed for producing a false-twisted yarn made of regenerated cellulose filament yarn that does not lack the gloss, texture, cool feel, etc. that are characteristic of regenerated cellulose fibers, and also has bulkiness. is the current situation.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a false-twisted yarn made of regenerated cellulose long fiber yarn that has bulkiness without impairing the luster, drapability, coolness, and texture characteristic of regenerated cellulose fibers. It's about doing.

[Means for solving problems゛]

The present invention is characterized in that when false-twisting regenerated cellulose long fiber yarn, the feed rate during false-twisting is 0 to 2%, and the crimp elongation rate (CE) of the false-twisted yarn is The crimp shape factor defined by the number of crimp (N) is 0.02 to 0.
20, the method for producing false twisted yarn → - rolling ←.

The crimp elongation rate (hereinafter abbreviated as CE) of the present invention is the value obtained by dividing the elongation when a certain yarn length is sampled and a certain load is applied, by the original yarn length. Measure. In addition, the number of crimps (hereinafter abbreviated as N) is the thread length 1
The number of crimps per inch, measured as described below. Furthermore, the crimp shape coefficient (hereinafter abbreviated as CE/N) defined by the ratio of the crimp elongation rate and the number of crimps is:
Refers to the value obtained by dividing the crimp/elongation rate by the number of crimps, each [%]
and [number/inch] are used for calculation.

The crimp shape factor (CU/N) defined in the present invention is:
It is the most suitable parameter for designing and controlling the bulky properties of false twisted yarn, regenerated cellulose, and the luster, drapability, coolness, and texture unique to shrimp fibers. Conventional bulky textured yarns, especially bulky textured yarns using regenerated cellulose fibers, have no concept of designing or adjusting using these parameters or parameters similar to these parameters, and the present inventors have worked diligently to As a result of the research, it was revealed that these parameters can be used to evaluate bulky properties and the above-mentioned favorable properties peculiar to regenerated cellulose fibers for the first time in the case of false twisted yarns made of regenerated cellulose fibers.

When the conventional heating-heat-setting single-untwisting bulky yarn was evaluated using these parameters, it was found that the crimp shape coefficient (CE/N) was in the range of 0.35 to 0.40, and in this range, the bulkiness was low. However, the properties of regenerated cellulose fibers are impaired.

In the present invention, when CE/N is less than 0.02, the yarn retains the above-mentioned string characteristics peculiar to regenerated cellulose fiber, but the yarn has poor bulkiness, which is not preferable. On the other hand, CE
If /N exceeds 0.20, the bulkiness will be too high and the elastic properties will be impaired, which is not preferable.

The false-twisting conditions for producing the false-twisted yarn of the present invention require that the feed rate be θ to -2%.

If the overfeed exceeds 0%, the regenerated cellulose filament yarn has an extremely low dry heat shrinkage rate, so the tension is low (the yarn running is disordered, yarn breakage, fuzz, uneven crimp, etc.)
It is not possible to obtain uniformly twisted yarn. Furthermore, if the underfeed exceeds -2%, the tension will become high, fluff will occur, and yarn breakage will occur frequently. Thus, in the present invention, it is extremely important to carry out the feeding at a feed rate of 0 to -2%. For other false twisting conditions, temperatures of 100°C to 250°C are suitable. More preferably from 150°C to 25°C
It is in the range of 0°C. When the temperature is less than 100°C, the cent effect of #@shrinkage tends to be insufficient. Further, at temperatures above 250°C, whitening of the fibers tends to decrease. If the number of twists is exceeded, fluff is likely to occur. A suitable heating time is 0.3 to 1.5 seconds. If it is less than 0.3 seconds, the crimp set effect is not sufficient (,1
, If the time exceeds 5 seconds, the strength of the fiber tends to decrease.

The false-twisting machine used in carrying out the false-twisting process may be any model that satisfies the above-mentioned conditions, and is not particularly limited.

The methods for measuring and evaluating the crimp elongation, number of crimp, whitening, strength, gloss, coolness, bulkiness, and quality of the false twisted yarn described in this specification will be explained below.

Crimp elongation rate: Based on JIS L 1077-5.7 r-elasticity measurement method.

Crimp number: Based on JIS L 1074-6.11.1 r crimp number measurement method.

Gloss: Judgment based on visual sensory test.

Judgment is based on a sensory test based on cool sensation.

White discoloration: Measured according to JIS L 1074-6.14, C method, and the obtained results are ranked and shown.

◎: White discoloration 19-21 0:〃16-18

Quality of false-twisted yarn: Visual quality of false-twisted yarn (fuzz, untwisted, uncrimped areas) is determined based on visual sensory inspection.

Bulkyness: Judgment based on sensory test by touch.

The results of the sensory test are summarized by 10 inspectors and are ranked as follows.

◎: Excellent ○: Good △: Ya＼Poor ×: Poor Below, an example of the embodiment of the present invention will be shown, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Using 1 piece of viscose rayon long fiber yarn 300d/60f, false twisting temperature: 200°C, number of twists: 1500T/M, heating time, using a false twisting machine LS-II manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. 0,
False twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients were produced by changing the feed rate from +0.5% to -3.0% for 9 seconds. Next, the processed yarn was placed in a constant temperature room at 20°C x 65% R11 for 24 hours.
After standing for a period of time, the quality of the false twisted yarn was evaluated by visual sensory inspection. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. Thus, a good false twisted yarn can be obtained at a feed rate of 0 to -2%.

However, when false twisting is performed with an overfeed of more than 0% or an underfeed of more than 12%, fuzz occurs frequently and the yarn breaks, making it impossible to obtain a false twisted yarn.

First time! 〉 Viscose rayon long fiber yarn 300d/60f was used in the false twisting machine shown in Example 1, the number of twists was 15007/M, the feed rate was -1%, the heating time was 0.9 seconds, and the false twisting temperature was 8
False twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients were produced by varying the temperature from 0°C to 260°C. Next, a jersey knitted fabric made of the processed yarn was obtained. The results of this performance evaluation are shown in Table 2. As shown in Table 2, when the temperature is less than 10°C, the crimp setting effect is poor and CE/N is 0.02 or less, resulting in only low bulkiness.

Further, at temperatures above 250° C., although the bulkiness is good, white discoloration decreases, which is not preferable.

The following margins are used. Viscose rayon long fiber yarn 300d/60f was twisted using the false twisting machine shown in Example 1 at a false twisting temperature of 200°C, a feed rate of -1%, and a heating time of 0.9 seconds. Number 1100~
False twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients were produced by changing the crimp shape coefficient to 2300T/M. Next, the processed yarn was heated at 20°C x 65
After being left in a constant temperature room at %R11 for 24 hours, the quality of the false twisted yarn was evaluated by visual sensory inspection. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3. As described above, when the yarn is twisted (less than 1150), not only is sufficient bulkiness not obtained, but also unraveling (which is a drawback of false twisted yarn) and the occurrence of fluff are extremely undesirable.

Next 41t viscose rayon length 11i fiber thread 300d/60f
using the false twisting machine shown in Example 1 at a temperature of 200°C.
The number of twists was 1500 T/M, the feed rate was -1%, and the heating time was varied from 0.2 to 1.7 seconds to produce false twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients. Then, the processed yarn is
The strength of the false twisted yarn was measured after being left in a constant temperature room at 0° C. and 65% RH for 24 hours. Furthermore, a cotton jersey knitted fabric was prepared using the processed yarn and its bulkiness was evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 4. When the heating time is in the range of 0.3 to 1.5 seconds, the false-twisted yarn has good bulkiness without decreasing its strength. If the time is shorter than this range, the strength will not decrease, but the bulkiness will be poor. In addition, if it is used for a long time, although it has good bulkiness, its strength decreases, which is not preferable.

Below is a blank space - Example 5 = Regenerated cellulose fiber yarn by copper ammonia method 75 d
/45f with the false twisting machine shown in Example 1 at a temperature of 20
False-twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients were prepared by changing the feed rate from +0.5% to -3.0% at 0"C, twist number, 2600T/M, and heating time 0.9 seconds.

Next, the processed yarn was placed in a constant temperature room at 20°C x 65% R11 for 24 hours.
After standing for a period of time, the quality of the false twisted yarn was evaluated by visual sensory inspection. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5. In this way, a good false twisted yarn can be obtained at a feed rate of 0 to -2%. However, when false twisting is carried out with an overfeed of more than 0% or an underfeed of more than -2%, fuzz occurs frequently and yarn breakage occurs, making it impossible to obtain a false twisted yarn.

The margins are as follows: 5 pieces of viscose rayon long fiber yarn 3 oz/6 oz. By varying the crimp shape coefficients, false twisted yarns with different crimp shape coefficients were produced. Next, an embroidered lace made of the processed yarn was obtained. The results of this performance evaluation are shown in Table 6. As described above, the embroidered lace made of false twisted yarn with a crimp shape factor of 0.02 to 0.20 is rich in bulkiness without impairing the luster, drapeability, and coolness of the viscose rayon yarn.

Furthermore, since the lace pattern is bulky, the lace pattern part appears to be raised, resulting in an embroidered lace that has a more luxurious feel.

On the other hand, those with a crimp shape factor of 0.015 had the luster, drapability, and cool feel characteristic of viscose rayon yarns, but were inferior in bulkiness, and only smooth lace patterns with no bulges were obtained. . In addition, those with crimp shape coefficients of 0.22 and 0.30 are bulky, and although the lace pattern has a bulging feeling, the original characteristics of viscose rayon yarn, such as luster, drapability, and coolness, are lost. I could only get what I wanted.

Using the same viscose rayon yarn as in Example 6, a bulky textured yarn was produced by the heating-heat-setting-untwisting method.

Heating was done using an Italian twisting machine to give Z1187T/M, and then a vacuum setter was used to set the twist by steam treatment at 130°C for 20 minutes.Then, it was untwisted in the S direction using an Italian twisting machine to make it easy to travel. A bulky processed yarn was obtained. An embroidered lace was obtained from the processed yarn in the same manner as in the example.

Table 6 shows these performances. In this way, only a high crimp shape factor of 0.36 can be obtained, and although the lace part has a tendency to bulge due to its bulky properties, the original characteristics of viscose rayon yarn, such as luster, drapability, and coolness, are not achieved. You only get what you lose.

Comparison 1 Table 6 shows the performance of embroidered lace made of viscose rayon long fiber yarn 300d/60f yarn.

The following margins [Effects of the Invention] As detailed above, the production method of the present invention is configured as described above, so that an engraving using the false twisted yarn of regenerated cellulose fibers obtained by the production method of the present invention is possible. Broidal lace is rich in bulk without impairing the luster, drapability, and cool feel that are the characteristics of regenerated cellulose long fiber yarn.

Furthermore, since it has bulky properties, the lace pattern appears to be floating, giving it an even more luxurious feel. Furthermore, even when used as a raised fabric for woven or knitted fabrics, crimp does not disappear and pile woven or knitted fabrics with good bulkiness can be obtained. Furthermore, even when used in general woven or knitted fabrics, the bulky properties of the false twisted yarn can be fully utilized and a fabric with an extremely good texture and voluminous feel can be obtained. Furthermore, even if the processed yarn is twisted, twisted with other materials, or mixed or knitted, the bulkiness will not be impaired.

Needless to say, all of these have the luster, cool feel, and drape properties that are characteristic of regenerated cellulose long fiber yarns.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A method for producing a false-twisted yarn, which is characterized in that when false-twisting regenerated cellulose long fiber yarn, the feed rate during false-twisting is 0 to -2%.