JPH03218307A - Treating agent for permanent wave and permanent waving method of hair - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To oxidize and fix hair with suppressing the decrease of elastic modulus by using a hydrogen peroxide solution having a specific range of pH and H2O2 concentration as a second agent, treating hairs wound on a rod with a keratin-reducing first agent and treating with said second agent. CONSTITUTION:The subject treating agent composed of a hydrogen peroxide solution having pH4.5-7.5 and <=0.3wt.% (preferably 0.01-0.05wt.%) H2O2 concentration is prepared and hairs are wound on a rod, etc., then are treated with a permanent wave first agent of keratin-reducing property, thus washed in water and treated with the above-mentioned treating agent as a second agent to oxidize and fix the shaped hairs. Treatment with the second agent is preferably performed at 37-47 deg.C (more preferably 40-45 deg.C) for 2-15min. By using the above-mentioned treating agent as the second agent, decrease of elastic modulus owing to the permanent treatment is extremely smaller than conventional method and decreasing of resilience of the hairs is not perceptible.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a treatment agent for forming permanent waves and a method for permanently waving hair using the same. More specifically, a permanent waving treatment agent (second agent) comprising a hydrogen peroxide solution having specific properties to prevent a decrease in the elastic modulus of hair due to repeated permanent waving treatments, and hair using the above treatment agent. Permanent wave method.

[Prior Art] As a method of giving waves to hair, instead of the method of heating the hair with an alkaline aqueous solution at a high temperature, a so-called cold perm, in which a permanent wave treatment is performed at a low temperature, is currently mainstream. Cold verma is usually performed in the following manner.

After winding the hair into a rod and applying a reducing agent, generally a mixture of ammonium glycolate, ammonium carbonate, ammonia, etc., as the first agent, the head is covered with a cap and left for about 5 to 20 minutes. The disulfide bonds (-S-S-) of the keratin fibers of the hair are cut and plasticized, the hair is deformed along the circumference of the rod, and then the first agent (reducing agent) is removed or acidified. Neutralize with liquid to stop reduction. At this stage, many of the di-sulfide groups in the keratin fibers in the hair are converted to merkabut (SH).
It is changing based on Next, sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide solution is applied as a second agent (oxidizing agent) to the hair that has been deformed in this way, and the hair is left to stand for about 15 minutes.
! 4 groups are oxidized and restored to disulfide groups to fix hair deformation, and then the second agent is washed away with water and dried to complete the work.

Customers who have obtained a curly deformation in their hair through the above-mentioned cold balma generally undergo the same treatment repeatedly at a beauty salon every 2 to 3 months to maintain the curly deformation, but the hair undergoes repeated reduction and oxidation processes. As a result, the elasticity of the hair decreases, and the smoothness and shine of the hair surface decreases, resulting in so-called damaged hair that is dull, rough, and lacks luster.

In order to prevent such drawbacks, the composition of the conventional first agent has been changed, such as using cysteine as a weaker reducing agent, the pH and concentration of the first agent has been changed, and various additives have been added to the first agent.
Methods have been proposed, such as mixing it with a second agent or a second agent.
Even with these methods, it has not been possible to effectively prevent the elastic modulus from decreasing due to repeated permanent treatments.

[Problem to be Solved by the Invention 1] In the present invention, we believe that the main cause of this decrease in the elastic modulus of hair is the oxidation process by the second agent rather than the reduction process by the first agent. We considered improved formulations. Second
Currently, sodium bromate and hydrogen peroxide are mainly used as the agent, but the present inventor noticed that when a hydrogen peroxide solution is used as the second agent, its physical properties greatly affect the decrease in elastic modulus. However, we have discovered that by using hydrogen peroxide with specific physical properties, it is possible to prevent a decrease in elastic modulus, and that we have discovered the optimal conditions for permanently waving hair using such hydrogen peroxide as a second agent.

[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, the present invention has a pH of more than 4.5 and less than or equal to 75, and ? A permanent wave treatment agent consisting of a hydrogen peroxide solution with a 202 concentration of 0.3% by weight or less, and a keratin-reducing permanent wave first agent before and/or after mechanical shaping. After treatment and washing with water, treat with the above permanent wave treatment agent as a second agent,
This is a method for permanently waving hair, which is characterized by oxidizing and fixing shaped hair.

Hydrogen peroxide, along with sodium bromate, is the most common second agent for vamanent waves, but the hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution conventionally used as the second agent has a pH
is in the range of 2.5 to 4.5, and the 820■ concentration is 1.5
It was about 2.5% by weight.

In the present invention, the hydrogen peroxide solution conventionally used as a second agent for permanent waving is made more alkaline, and has a pH of over 4.5 and 7.
5 or less, preferably 4.7 or more and 7.0 or less, particularly preferably 5.0 or more and 6.5 or less. pH
Is it 4.5? If the pH is below 7.5, the elastic modulus of the hair will decrease due to repeated permanent treatments, and if the pH is higher than 7.5, the hair will not only be easily damaged but also have the disadvantage that the elastic modulus will decrease.

Hydrogen peroxide for the second permanent wave agent is used by adding a phosphoric acid or citric acid buffer to commercially available hydrogen peroxide, but in the present invention, the pH can be adjusted by changing the formulation of this buffer. It can be in the range of more than 4.5 and less than 7.5.

Further, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the present invention is 0.3% by weight or less, preferably 0.05% by weight or less, and 0.01% by weight or more. When the concentration is higher than 0.3% by weight, the elastic recovery force decreases; If it is lower than Ol weight %, the elastic recovery force will not decrease, but the processing time will become longer. The hydrogen peroxide concentration here refers to the H z O content (% by weight), which is usually H.
A commercially available aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution having a concentration of 0.30% by weight is diluted and used.

The present invention further includes a method for permanently waving hair using the above treatment agent as a second agent.

That is, the hair is wrapped around a hair rod or the like and mechanically shaped, and before or after, or before and after, the hair is treated with a keratin-reducing permanent wave agent, left in contact for a predetermined period of time, washed with water, and then In this method, the hair is treated with the permanent waving treatment agent of the present invention as a second agent, and after a predetermined contact time, the hair curled onto the rod is oxidized and fixed, thereby permanently waving the hair.

As mentioned above, by using the permanent wave treatment agent of the present invention, the decrease in elastic modulus is significantly improved, but due to the low concentration of hydrogen peroxide, depending on the treatment conditions, insufficient oxidation may occur. As a result, the generated wave may become loose, a so-called web down phenomenon. However, it has been found that if the second agent is treated at a temperature of 37°C to 47°C, preferably 40°C to 45°C, permanent waving can be achieved without substantially waving down.

Therefore, the conditions for fixing deformed hair using the second agent for permanent waving of the present invention are 3.
7°C to 47°C, preferably 40-45°C, 2-1
Preferably, the treatment is for 5 minutes.

In the permanent wave method according to the present invention, the first
The punishment can be arbitrarily selected from among the commonly used first agents. Such first agents include, for example, glycolic acid, ammonium glycolic acid,
Examples include cysteine.

When applying the second agent, the second agent's p
Since H may change and the effect of the present invention may not be fully manifested, a buffer solution is added to the second agent of the present invention to prevent sudden p.
It is preferable to prevent changes in H from occurring.

In addition, various additives can be added to the second agent for permanent waving made of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution of the present invention in order to enhance the effects of permanent waving within a range that does not interfere with the purpose and effect of the present invention. . Examples of such additives include protein hydrolysates.

In addition, additives such as mink oil, silicone, etc. can be added to improve the feel of the hair after permanent waving.

[Example] Hair of a healthy woman with no history of permanent or dyed hair was collected, and a normal one with a diameter of 55 to 60 μ and no curls was selected, and this was used as a test hair material. It was used as

A tensile testing machine was equipped with a temperature-adjustable glass force ram, passed through the column, and 12 cm of hair was fixed between the chucks.

First, the column was filled with distilled water, left for 15 minutes, a constant strain of 1.5% was applied to the hair, the stress generated at that time was measured, and the initial elastic modulus G before permanent treatment was determined. Calculate. Then remove the water and add ammonium glycolate,
Permanent first agent consisting of a mixture of ammonium bicarbonate and ammonia (ammonium thioglycolate concentration 6
%, q pH 9.0).

As the hair reduction progresses, the stress relaxation process is recorded on the chart, so after the relaxation rate reaches 70% (i.e. when the stress becomes 30% of the initial stress), the first agent in the column Remove and wash with distilled water.

Next, a second agent consisting of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution having a pH of 5.6 and a concentration of 0.03% by weight was filled into a column whose temperature was adjusted to 30° C., and after being left for 15 minutes, the second agent was removed from the column.
After washing with water and leaving in water for 15 minutes, the elastic modulus of the hair is measured again. Elastic modulus G at a constant strain given in water before addition of the first agent obtained on the chart. and the elastic modulus G obtained after repeated permanent treatment n times. Which ratio G/G. Than,
The recovery rate of elastic modulus was measured.

This permanent processing is repeated 5 times, G, /G. -G
．． /G. By measuring , the elastic modulus recovery rate due to repeated permanent work was measured. The results are shown in Table 1.

In addition, the change in elastic recovery rate due to repeated processing is It is shown in Figure 1.

11 and 12'', L 艷dan工二 1 A hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution having the pH and concentration shown in Table 1 was applied to normal hair of the same person, which was collected at the same time from a location near the hair used in Example 1. A permanent treatment test was conducted repeatedly in the same manner as in Example 1 using as the second agent. The results are also shown in Table 1.

Regarding the results of Comparative Example 1, changes in elastic recovery rate due to repeated treatments are also shown in FIG.

Furthermore, from the results of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2, the elastic modulus recovery rate (G 3/G
The relationship between pH of hydrogen peroxide solution and hydrogen peroxide solution is shown in Figure 2.

Next, from the results of Examples 1, 4, 5, and 6 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4, the relationship between the elastic modulus recovery rate (G3/G.) and the hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution concentration after three repeated permanent treatments was determined as follows.
Shown in the figure.

Margin below 11 1 Table 1 2 Table 1 (Continued) l 3 Comparative Example 5 Using normal hair from the same person that was collected at the same time from a location near the hair used in Example l, a sodium bromate aqueous solution (concentration 10 A permanent treatment test was repeated 5 times in the same manner as in Example 1, using % by weight as the second agent. The results are shown in Table 2.

Further, changes in the elastic recovery rate due to repeated treatments are also shown in FIG.

Table 2 1 4 From the results of these Examples and Comparative Examples, it is clear that in the permanent treatment using the second agent consisting of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution according to the present invention, even if the permanent treatment is repeated five times,
The reduction in elastic modulus was only observed to be about the same as that of conventional products, and in terms of preventing the elastic modulus of hair from decreasing, it is extremely superior not only to sodium bromate, but also compared to conventionally used hydrogen peroxide. I know that there is.

Examples 7 to 11, Comparative Examples 6 to 10 Using the second agent having the pHi and concentration shown in Table 3,
The same permanent wave treatment as in Example 1 was repeated three times at a treatment temperature of 45° C. with the second agent, and the elastic modulus recovered after each treatment at 10 G, /G. was measured, and the wave down ΔW of the permanently waved hair after 2 hours was also measured. The results are shown in Table 3.

From the results of the above examples and comparative examples, the elastic modulus recovery rate (G3
/G. ) and the relationship between the wavedown and the physical properties of the second agent are shown in FIG.

1 5 However, hair wave down was measured by the following method.

Wave down ~" After performing permanent treatment with the first agent and the second agent in the same manner as in Example 1, the second agent was removed from the column,
After washing with water, the column is filled with water again, the crosshead of the tensile tester is raised, the strain is returned to zero, and the column is left for 5 minutes. After switching the recording paper feed speed to high speed and marking a starting point on the recording paper, the crosshead is lowered again to the point of 1.5% strain. Although the hair is elongated due to the permanent treatment, the distance of descent until stress generation begins is determined by the degree of the permanent treatment effect, so the distance from the starting point to the stress generation point is read on the recording paper. This distance is ρ. If the moving distance when binding and elongating by 1.5% is L, then the wave effect W immediately after the perm treatment. is Wo-β. /LXIOO%.

In this way W. After measuring, return the strain to 0 again, leave it for an arbitrary period of time, repeat the above operation, and read the distance ε to the stress generation after t minutes, Wt=n t/ LX l 00 is the wave efficiency after t minutes.

Wave down △W is the rate of change in wave efficiency with respect to wave efficiency immediately after perming, △W = (Wt-Wo)/
Wo×1oo% or = (E − 12 o) / (
It is expressed as l ox I O O %.

1 7 Table 1 8 ``Et'''' As the second agent, hydrogen peroxide with a pH of 4.6 and a concentration of 0.03 and 0.3% by weight was used, and the treatment temperature with the second agent was 30°C, 35°C, The same permanent wave treatment as in Example 1 was repeated three times at 40°C and 45°C to obtain an elastic modulus recovery rate of G3/G. Furthermore, the wave down of the permanently waved hair after 2 hours was measured.

The results are shown in Table 4.

Further, based on the results of Example 12, the relationship between the elastic modulus recovery rate (G3/G.) after three-times repeated permanent treatment, wave down, and treatment temperature with the second agent is shown in FIG.

Margin below 1 9 Table 4 20 As is clear from the results of Examples 7 to 12 and Comparative Examples 6 to 10, the wave-down phenomenon was improved by increasing the treatment temperature, especially in low-concentration hydrogen peroxide solution. The improvement effect is remarkable when using . It was also surprisingly found that as the treatment temperature increased, the elastic modulus recovery rate also improved. The effect of improving the elastic modulus recovery rate is also particularly large when a low concentration hydrogen peroxide solution is used.

Furthermore, the effect of improving the elastic modulus recovery rate and wave down by increasing the pH is also remarkable when a low concentration hydrogen peroxide solution is used and the treatment is carried out at a high temperature.

The hydrogen peroxide solution of the present invention, which combines the specific conditions of high pH and low concentration, is excellent as a treatment liquid for permanent waves, and moreover, it can be treated at the temperature shown as a preferred embodiment of the present invention. Accordingly, the effects of the present invention are further improved.

[Effects of the Invention] By using the hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution of the present invention, which has a pH and concentration within a specific range, as a second agent for permanent treatment, the decrease in elastic modulus due to repeated permanent treatments can be reduced compared to the conventional second agent. It is extremely small compared to the second agent, and there is no noticeable decrease in the elasticity of the hair caused by permanent treatments.

In addition, when repeating permanent hair using conventional methods, the fixation rate of the waves decreases due to repetition, making it difficult to curl the tips of the hair, but with this method, sufficient deformation is possible up to the tips, which prevents damage to the hair. Permanent processing can be performed efficiently without any trouble.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing changes in the elastic recovery rate of hair that has been repeatedly permanently treated three times using the present invention and a conventional second agent consisting of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution. Figure 2 shows the elastic modulus recovery rate (G./G.o.) of hair that was repeatedly permanently treated three times at 30°C using the second agent of the present invention and the conventional hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution and the hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution. It is a graph showing the relationship with pH. 22 Figure 3 shows the relationship between the elastic modulus recovery rate (G3/G.) and the hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution concentration of hair that has been permanently treated three times using the second agent of the present invention and the conventional hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution. This is a graph showing. FIG. 4 shows the wave down (ΔW) and elastic modulus recovery rate (G s /cx .) of hair that was repeatedly permanently treated three times at 45° C. using the second agent of the present invention and a conventional hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution. It is a graph which shows the relationship between and the pH of a hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution. FIG. 5 shows the wave down (ΔW) and elastic modulus recovery rate (G 3 /G .
) and the treatment temperature using the second agent.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. pH is more than 4.5 and 7.5 or less, and H_2
A permanent wave treatment agent consisting of a hydrogen peroxide solution with an O_2 concentration of 0.3% by weight or less. 2. Before and/or after mechanical shaping, hair is treated with a keratin-reducing permanent wave first agent, washed with water, and then treated with the permanent wave treatment agent according to claim 1 as a second agent, A hair permanent waving method characterized by oxidizing and fixing shaped hair. 3. The hair permanent waving method according to claim 2, wherein the treatment with the second agent is carried out at a temperature of 37°C to 47°C.