JPH0369660A - Production of cloth with loosened pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To mechanically and efficiently obtain the subject cloth having soft and elegant appearance at a relatively low cost by arranging two or more kinds of fibers having different shrinkage factors so as to provide a specific ratio of numbers thereof, heat-treating the arranged fibers and partially pressurizing the resultant cloth surface. CONSTITUTION:The objective cloth obtained by arranging (A) yarn having a high shrinkage factor and (B) yarn having a low shrinkage factor so as to provide preferably (1:2)-(1:20) ratio of the yarns of the yarns or components (B) to (A), heat-treating the arranged yarns, partially pressurizing the cloth surface and causing yarn slippage in the yarn longitudinal direction.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for producing a loose patterned fabric having an elegant appearance by arranging two or more types of synthetic fibers or synthetic fibers and natural fibers having different shrinkage rates. It is something.

[Conventional technology]

Conventional unraveling fabrics are made of a sheet-like warp group in which the weft is woven extremely coarsely to the extent that the warp does not come apart, and then a pattern or other partial dyeing is applied to the group.After that, the weft is removed and regular weft is inserted to weave. went. In the loosened fabric manufactured in this way, each weft thread is slightly misaligned, so the pattern expression has a soft elegance.

However, as mentioned above, the manufacturing method is very frequent, requires many steps, and requires a high level of skill, making it inefficient, limited in production, and an expensive product.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

The object of the present invention is to efficiently provide a large quantity of loosely patterned fabric having an elegant appearance.

[Means to solve the problem]

In other words, the present invention provides a fabric in which two or more types of fibers with different shrinkage rates are arranged in the warp and/or weft, and the ratio of the number of yarns with a large shrinkage rate to yarns with a small shrinkage rate, or the ratio of the number of yarns with a small shrinkage rate to a yarn with a large shrinkage rate. The cells are arranged so that the ratio is 1:2 or more and l:20 or less, and relaxation is performed to induce abnormal contractions. After that, the usual method is used to reduce the amount, heat set, print,
Post-processing and finishing are performed, and then processing is performed using a device such as a hotam breaker that partially applies pressure to the cloth surface, thereby causing yarn misalignment in the yarn length direction between yarns with a high shrinkage rate and yarns with a low shrinkage rate. It should be noted that the shrinkage rate here refers to the shrinkage rate of boiling water at 100°C.

[For production]

The edges of the woven fabric are slightly misaligned at each end, resulting in a soft and elegant pattern.

As a method to mechanically and efficiently create subtle misalignment at the end of the pattern, use yarn 2 to 20 with a small shrinkage rate for yarn 1 with a high shrinkage rate, or use yarn with a high shrinkage rate 1 with a yarn 1 with a small shrinkage rate. When 2 to 20 horizons are arranged in the warp and/or weft and subjected to relaxing heat treatment, the yarns with a high shrinkage rate become suspended and the yarns with a low shrinkage rate become loose due to the development of the difference in the length of each yarn.

In this way, the fabric in which the yarns with different shrinkage rates have been shrunk differently is subjected to weight reduction processing, heat setting, printing, post-processing, and finishing processing using the usual methods to partially create a fabric surface such as a bottom breaker. When treated with a pressurizing device, the hanging yarn with a high shrinkage rate and the loose yarn with a low shrinkage rate cause a slipping phenomenon, and the ends of the pattern appear to be slightly misaligned.

The present invention will be described in detail.

As synthetic fibers with different shrinkage rates, general high shrinkage yarns, low shrinkage yarns, mixed shrinkage yarns made in the raw yarn manufacturing process, etc. can be used. Further, heat-treated yarns such as additionally twisted yarns, false twisted yarns, dyed yarns, and other post-processed yarns may also be used.

Alternatively, the difference in shrinkage rates between synthetic fibers and natural fibers may be used as yarns with different shrinkage rates.

If the difference in shrinkage rate between yarns having different shrinkage rates is too small, yarn slippage will be difficult to occur, so it is desirable that the difference is 4% or more. Also, 5
If it exceeds 0%, loops will occur on the surface of the fabric, which is not preferable.

As for the method of arranging the threads, it is best to arrange the threads with a small shrinkage ratio in a ratio of 2 to 20 to the thread with a high shrinkage ratio of 1:1, and if the ratio of threads with a low shrinkage ratio is 1:1, thread misalignment is less likely to occur. The effect is also small. Furthermore, when the shrinkage rate of the yarn is 20 or more, the yarn slippage becomes coarse and does not look like it has been loosened.

Also, yarn 1 with a small shrinkage rate and yarn 2 with a large shrinkage rate
-20 or less may be arranged.

The yarn shearing effect will be better if the thickness of the yarn is equal to or thicker than the yarn with a higher shrinkage rate than the yarn with a lower shrinkage rate.

The density of the woven fabric may be within the range of normal woven fabrics, but if the density is too high, thread slippage will be less likely to occur.

The relaxation process for producing a difference in contraction can be performed under normal relaxing conditions such as dry heat relaxation, moist heat relaxation, and hot water relaxation.

Weight loss processing is effective in promoting the yarn shearing effect.The higher the weight loss rate, the greater the yarn shearing effect.A bottom breaker or an expander roll with spiral grooves as a device for producing yarn shearing can be used to create unevenness on the ground surface. A device that can partially pressurize the cloth surface is effective.

〔Example〕

Polyester yarn 150d-3Of 2 yarns with water absorption shrinkage rate of 12%, polyester yarn 5゜d-48f 6
s and Z 2500 T each for yarn with water absorption shrinkage of %
The warp yarn is heated and 6 yarns are arranged alternately, and the weft yarn is a polyester yarn of 5゜d-48f with a water absorption shrinkage rate of 6%, and two yarns heated at sZ of 2500 T/m are alternately used. The warp yarn density is 36.2/
cm weft yarn density 31.5/am was subjected to hot water relaxation for normal georgette fabrics, heat set at 190"C for 18% reduction, - screen printing using disperse dyes at high temperature of 175°C for 8 minutes. After steaming, soaping and finishing set at 180'C, a bottom breaker with a spirally planted round head stud at the rate of one per 2.5 cJ of surface of a metal roll with a diameter of 8 am. When treated, the 15° d-3Of yarn caused thread displacement in the yarn length direction, resulting in a georgette fabric having a combed pattern.

〔Effect of the invention〕

It has become possible to mechanically and efficiently produce loose fabrics with a soft and elegant appearance, which have traditionally been produced by hand, at a relatively low cost.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) In a fabric in which two or more types of fibers with different shrinkage rates are arranged in the warp and/or weft, the ratio of the number of yarns with a large shrinkage rate to yarns with a small shrinkage rate or the number ratio of yarns with a small shrinkage rate to yarns with a large shrinkage rate is 1. A method for producing a loosened patterned fabric, which comprises arranging the fibers in a ratio of 2 to 1:20, subjecting them to heat treatment, and then applying partial pressure to the fabric surface to generate yarn shear in the yarn length direction.