JPH0410443B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to aqueous oxidative hair dye compositions with unique rheological properties. The hair dye composition of the present invention has good flow and adhesion properties. The physical properties of conventional oxidative hair dye compositions are generally compromised by the fluidity required for the different stages of the dyeing operation. When the oxidative hair dye composition is used on the hair, it must be of suitable flowability so as to cover every single hair on the head. On the other hand, if the dye is too loose after use on the hair, the dye will run off the head, which is undesirable. If an attempt is made to prevent the latter problem by making the dye viscous, the dye will not flow properly into the hair when applied. Applicants have a low shear rate of about 3200 to about 10000 centipoise (cps) (8.5/
The oxidative hair dye composition has favorable variable viscosity characteristics with a high shear rate (1370/sec) viscosity of about 70 to about 150 cps and a stay-put flow distance of no greater than 1 inch. discovered. The compositions of the present invention contain from about 5 to about 10% molecular carbon atoms, based on the total composition weight.
a fatty acid having a molecular weight of from 1.25 to 22, sufficient alkalizing agent to neutralize the fatty acid and provide a hair dye composition pH of 8.5 to 11.5, and about 1.25 to about 5% intramolecular carbon atoms.
an aliphatic alcohol having an HLB of 12 to 22, about 1.5 to about 6% of an anhydrous H ₂ O ₂ hair dye oxidizing agent, and about 10 to about 15% of at least one alkoxylated alkyl having an HLB of about 9 to 11.5. Contains phenols. All percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated. All chemical names are used according to the nomenclature used in the CFTA Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients published by the Cosmetic Fragrance and Fragrance Association in 1982. Variables are at room temperature. The present invention therefore provides hair dye compositions that have a marked thixotropy, ie a viscosity as a function of a rather steep shear rate curve. This means that when a hair dye composition comprising the base composition of the invention is subjected to high shear, for example when it is stirred during application, and for some time thereafter, its viscosity is low.
This results in a fluid that is fluid enough to apply it to the hair. After applying the composition to the hair, it gradually becomes sticky and does not drip or run from the hair. Comparative tests with a number of commercially available hair dye compositions demonstrate the superior flowability of the hair dye compositions prepared according to the present invention. The HLB of an emulsifier is determined as described in a booklet entitled The Atlas HLB System published by Atlas Chemical Industries.
HLB stands for hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium. This system was introduced by Atlas Chemical Industries in the late 1940s as a systematic representation of the emulsifying properties of substances. Each emulsifier was assigned a numerical value called its HLB. Since all emulsifiers are composed of molecules that combine both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, this number represents a balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic or polar groups and the lipophilic or non-polar groups in each emulsifier. Emulsifiers that are lipophilic in nature have an HLB of 9 or less, and those that are hydrophilic have an HLB of 11 or more. Those between HLB9 and 11 are considered intermediate. Synthesis of mixtures when a large number of emulsifiers are mixed
HLB is the percentage of a given ingredient and its HLB
is the arithmetic sum of the products of For example, in the case of a mixture of equal concentrations of alkoxylated alkylphenol (HLB 13) and nonoxynol-4 (HLB 8.8), the resulting mixture has an HLB of 10.9. Other suitable alkoxylated alkylphenols or mixtures thereof will be readily apparent to those of average skill in the art of hair dye compositions. Since the oxidizing agent is an important component of the composition of the present invention,
An oxidizing agent, also called a developer composition in the hair dyeing field, is a composition containing one or more hair dye intermediates (often referred to as a "tint" in the hair dyeing field).
Since the developer and the taint composition are both aqueous solutions, at least a portion of the alkoxylated alkylphenol emulsifier may be included in the developer composition. This facilitates mixing the developer composition and the taint composition when they are mixed together before use. Examples of _C18 - _C22 fatty acids for use in the present invention are stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid or mixtures thereof, such as naturally occurring tall oil acid. These acids may be saturated or unsaturated. A variety of _C12 - _C22 aliphatic alcohols can be used in the present invention, such as lauryl, oleyl, stearyl, isostearyl, cetyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohol, and the like. These alcohols may have a saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched structure. The alkalizing agent can be any substance commonly used in hair protection compositions to neutralize fatty acids and create the necessary alkaline pH, such as ammonium hydroxide,
Examples include monoethanolamine. Although the oxidizing agent is represented by hydrogen peroxide, other oxidizing agents suitable for use in hair treatment compositions can also be used, such as other peroxides, such as urea peroxide. Although the entire patent specification describes a hair dye composition, the present invention also contains a mild bleaching agent that does not necessarily contain a color-forming hair dye intermediate, as described throughout the specification and claims. thinking. Generally, however, hair bleaching compositions typically contain, in addition to an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, a bleach booster such as Percompound powder. However, it has been found that the convenient variable viscosity properties of the present invention cannot be obtained by adding such bleach boosters to the composition. The flow properties of the compositions of the present invention were compared to a relatively large number of commercially available oxidative hair dyes. Comparison results are shown in the Examples below. Although all commercially available compounds exhibit some degree of shear rate dependence on their viscosity, none showed as high a shear rate dependence as the compositions of the present invention. Therefore, in conventional commercial composition formulations, either, but not both, to obtain high viscosity at low shear rates (to obtain good adhesion) or to obtain low viscosity at high shear rates (to obtain good flowability). A tradeoff was necessary. With few exceptions, commercial composition manufacturers generally choose to have low viscosities at high shear rates at the expense of insufficiently high viscosities at low shear rates. This trade-off is not necessary for the compositions of the invention since the fairly sharp shear rate dependence of the viscosity values allows ideal viscosities to be reached at both the high and low ends of the shear rate range. The examples list a number of commercially available oxidative hair dye products that were used in this comparison based on the ingredients listed on the label. This information is only available for commercial hair dyes sold in the United States, as ingredient lists are not required in other countries. None of the commercially available oxidative hair dyes available contain the unique combination of ingredients of this invention. Viscosity measurements by shear rate of compositions according to the invention and of commercially available oxidative hair dye compositions have shown that the manufacturers of commercially available compositions clearly primarily aim for good fluidity during use of the dyeing compositions on hair. , and conducted a series of further tests. In this test, the high viscosity adhesion properties of compositions according to the invention and commercially available compositions were compared. Each oxidative hair dye composition was applied to the upper part of the inclined plate, and after 5 minutes, the flow distance of each sample was measured. The results of this comparative adhesion test are also shown in the Examples below. The results showed that only one commercially available hair dye composition (Polycolor Cream Hair Color 45) had the same adhesion as the composition of the present invention. High shear rate viscosity data for the same commercial composition however shows relatively high viscosity values indicating relatively poor flow properties and of course the trade-off for this commercial composition is that at low shear rates for better adhesion This shows that emphasis was placed on providing high viscosity. Adhesion tests, as explained below, further showed that high viscosity at low shear rates does not necessarily give good adhesion of the dye composition. Therefore, at a low shear rate of 8.5/sec, the composition
In addition to having a viscosity of 3,200 to about 10,000 cps, it is also necessary to have a flow distance of less than 1 inch in an adhesion test. A number of comparative experiments were conducted to determine the key components contributing to the preferred rheological properties of the present invention. This comparative experiment not only determines the key components that contribute to favorable properties, and while low shear viscosity values are expected to indicate some degree of adhesion of the composition, the adhesion flow test on a tilted plate reveals more important properties. Even if it is not, it is at least equivalent. Therefore, high low shear viscosity does not necessarily result in proper adhesion on inclined plates. A taint base containing the following ingredients expressed in weight percent based on the taint base composition served as a comparison standard. Lauramid DEA 3.0% Ammonium hydroxide 8.7% Cetyl alcohol 2.5 Oleic acid 12.0 Lauretus-23 0.5 Add water to make total volume 100. Equivalent amounts of the developer of the example were used in this test. The base has a low shear (8.5/sec) viscosity of 5324 cps and a high shear (1370/sec) viscosity of 101 cps, and it showed no movement in the deposition flow test. The following table summarizes the comparison results. The first row of the table shows the differences between the samples and the taint base compositions described above.

[Table] Alcohol

Table: Sostearin Alcohol A further series of comparative tests were conducted to determine other important components that contribute to hair dye compositions as developer components. Therefore, the oxidizing agent is an important ingredient and the presence of an alkoxylated alkylphenol having an HLB of about 9 to about 11.5 in an amount of about 10 to 15% by weight based on the hair dye composition has also been found to be important. The following examples illustrate embodiments of the invention. All percentages are by weight of the example compositions unless otherwise noted. Example (1) The following composition is the color component of an oxidative hair dye composition that provides a tan coloring. Ammonium hydroxide 8.7% Cetyl alcohol 1.5 Stearyl alcohol 1.0 Lauramide DEA3 3.0 Oleic acid 12.0 Fragrance 0.1 Lauretus-23 0.5 Phenylenediamide 0.27 N,N bis(2-hydroxyethyl)p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.11 1-naphthol 0.1 Resorcinol 0.85 Sodium sulfite 0.1 Erythorbic acid 0.2 EDTA 0.05 Add water to make a total volume of 100% The color composition contains ammonium hydroxide, di-aliphatic alcohols (cetyl and stearyl) and oleic acid, which are the compositions of the present invention. It is an important component of things. (2) The following color composition giving a blonde tone was prepared. Ammonium hydroxide 9.0% Cetyl alcohol 4.5 Lauramide DEA3 3.0 Oleic acid 13.0 Fragrance 0.1 Lauretus-23 0.5 p-phenylenediamine 0.06 N,N bis(2-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.16 1-naphthol 0.03 Resorcinol 1.0 Sodium sulfite 0.1 Erythorbic acid 0.2 EDTA 0.05 Add water to make the total amount 100 (3) The following color developer was prepared for use at the same time as the color composition of (1) or (2) above. Nonoxynol-9 10.0% Nonoxynol-4 10.0% EDTA 0.02 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 12.3 Add water to make a total volume of 100 Either of the above color compositions (1) or (2) and the above (3)
A hair coloring composition was prepared by mixing equal parts of the developer composition. The mixture can be shaken in a bottle which can be applied directly to the hair through the spout or the two compositions can be mixed in a mixing bottle and the mixture can then be applied with an application brush as is normally done in hair dyeing. Viscosity measurements comparing commercially available oxidative hair dyes to compositions prepared according to the invention were made using a Herkerotwisko viscometer. The results are shown in the table below. Viscosity was expressed in centipoise (cps) for each material at a low shear rate of 8.5/sec and a high shear rate of 1730/sec. Except for the case of the present invention in which the color developer described in (3) above was used, all the compositions used were commercially available color developer compositions.

【table】

Table: Comparative deposition and flow tests of the compositions of the present invention and commercially available oxidizing hair products were carried out on slanted hardboard paper at a 60° angle with 0.5 g of each hair dye composition. After 5 minutes, the flow distance of each sample was measured. The flow distances of the various samples are shown in the following table in inches. In the case of commercially available oxidative dyes, the developer of that product was used. In the case of the composition of the present invention, the color developer of Example (3) was used. The number after the commercially available sample represents the color tone name. Sample flow distance (inch) Color toning composition of Example (1) 0 Color toning composition of Example (2) 0 Nice Easy 1.7 Preference 9 1/2BB 2.7 Excellence 6 2.8 Hort Mode A 2.2 Misclare Lorci Formulation 36 1.7 Misclairol Cream Formulation 36 0.9 Claretsse 206 4.3 Koleston 800N 2.6 Magi Blonde 1.8 Polycolor Tongue Swatshie 18 3.3 Polycolor Cream Hair Color 45 0 This sample is the last commercially available material that showed good adhesion and flowability. The high shear viscosity data for this product indicate that flowability is clearly compromised by high viscosity in this product formulation. The following composition is identified from the labeling of commercial products sold in the United States and used herein for comparison. Preferences, taints: ammonia, oleic acid, oleyl alcohol, cocamide DEA,
Polyglyceryl-4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, color developer: ceteth-2, oleamide DEA, nice-n-easy, taint: ammonia, oleic acid, octoxynol-1, nonoxynol-4, cocamide DEA , Color developer: Nonoxynol-9, Nonoxynol-4, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Mixed with misclairol shampoo, Taint: Tall oil fatty acid, Octoxynol-1, Nonoxynol-4, Linolamide DEA , developer:
Nonoxynol-9, Nonoxynol-4,
Contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, miscreal cream, taint: ammonia, oleic acid, nonoxynol-4, nonoxynol-1, sodium lauryl sulfate,
Color developer: Water, Excellence, Taint: Ammonia, triethanolamine, ammonium laureth sulfate, Pareth-15-9, Pareth-15-3, Color developer: Ceteth-2, Oleamide DEA. Clearess, Taint: Monoethanolamine, Octoxynol-1, Nonoxynol-
9. Linolamide-DEA, color developer: nonoxynol-9, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. (a) 5 to 10% C _18-22 based on the total weight of the composition;
fatty acids, (b) neutralizes the above fatty acids and lowers the PH of the composition;
Sufficient alkalizing agent to give 8.5 to 11.5, (c) 1.25 to
5% C _12-22 aliphatic alcohol, (d) 1.5-6%,
hair dye oxidizing agent, expressed as anhydrous hydrogen peroxide;
and (e) 10 to 15% of an alkoxylated alkyl phenol with an HLB of 9 to 11.5, containing amounts of each of the above fatty acids, alkalizing agents, fatty alcohols, hair dye oxidizing agents, and alkoxylated alkyl phenols at room temperature. in such an amount that the composition has a viscosity of 3200 to 10000 centipoise at a shear rate of 8.5/sec, a viscosity of 70 to 150 centipoise at a shear rate of 1370/sec, and a deposition distance of less than 1 inch. An oxidative hair dye composition characterized by: 2. The fatty acid is saturated or unsaturated, the fatty alcohol is saturated or unsaturated and has a linear or branched structure, and the composition comprises at least one oxidative hair dye intermediate. The oxidative hair dye composition described in Section 1. 3. The fatty acid is at least one of the group consisting of stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and tall oil acid.
The oxidative hair dye composition according to claim 2, which is a species. 4. The oxidative hair dye composition according to claim 2, wherein the fatty acid alcohol is at least one member of the group consisting of lauryl, oleyl, stearyl, isostearyl, cetyl, myristyl, and behinyl alcohol. 5. The oxidative hair dye composition according to claim 2, wherein the alkoxylated alkylphenol is an ethoxylated alkylphenol. 6 The fatty acid is at least one member of the group consisting of stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and tall oil acid, and the aliphatic alcohol is lauryl, oleyl, stearyl, isostearyl, and cetyl. , myristyl, and behenyl alcohol, the alkoxylated alkylphenol is ethoxylated nonylphenol, and the neutralization of the fatty acid and the pH adjustment are performed by using ammonia hydroxide. Claim 1 The oxidative hair dye composition described in .