JPH04257334A - Composite strong twist yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To improve depth of color in dyeing the aforementioned yarn to black so as to be suitable for black formal wear. CONSTITUTION:Hard twisted yarn in which polyester fiber 2 is located in a relatively straight state at the central part of the yarn and acetate fiber 1 in a state of formed relatively many loops is located in the outer peripheral part of the yarn. The whole yarn is subjected to hard twisting. The conjugate ratio of the polyester fiber to the acetate fiber is (2:8) to (6:4). Since the acetate fiber is present in the lopped state in the yarn surface layer in addition to the low refractive index essentially held by the acetate fiber, the extent of deep color is remarkably improved (<=9.5 L value). Since the polyester fiber in the straight state is present in the central part of the yarn, sufficient strength and stiffness intensity are obtained.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite strongly twisted yarn which exhibits a high degree of bathochromic properties and is suitable for use in black formal wear.

0002

[Prior Art] Traditionally, black formal clothing for formal wear has been widely used at ceremonial occasions, and as the processing technology for synthetic fibers has progressed, the textile materials used have changed from silk to silk. A wide range of materials are available, ranging from natural fibers such as fibers and wool to man-made fibers such as acetate fibers and polyester fibers.

[0003] For these formal wear, the deeper the black color, the higher the commercial value, and in the case of artificial fibers, focusing on the good workability of artificial fibers, in order to increase the depth of the black color,
By using fibers with irregular cross-sections, or by using fibers with irregularities on the surface, or by twisting the fibers, or by twisting the fibers, Various methods have been tried and commercialized to give a deep black color, such as using a specific surface shape.

0004

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] Lightness (hereinafter referred to as L value) is generally used as a measure to express the depth of color in formal wear, etc., and polyester fiber, which is a man-made fiber and is commonly used in formal wear, has a value of 11. , for acetate fiber, it is about 10.

However, with this level of L value, the color depth is not sufficient for formal wear, and in order to further increase the depth of color, polyester fibers are treated with silicone-based chemicals to increase their commercial value. In the case of acetate fiber, the refractive index of the fiber itself is low and the amount of specular reflection on the fiber surface is small compared to other fiber materials, so it is a fiber material that tends to darken, but it is suitable for formal wear etc. However, the color deepening is insufficient and is far from meeting the demands of consumers.

[0006] The present invention aims to solve these problems.

[0007]

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present invention provides that the polyester fibers are relatively straight and located mainly in the center of the yarn, and the acetate fibers are located in a relatively straight state mainly at the outer periphery of the yarn. It is a composite strongly twisted yarn characterized in that the entire yarn is highly twisted, and the composite ratio of polyester fibers and acetate fibers is in the range of 2:8 to 6:4.

The present invention will be explained in detail below with reference to the drawings.

FIGS. 1 and 2 are side views showing various examples of yarn forms of the composite high-twist yarn of the present invention, and FIGS. 3 and 4 are respectively shown in FIGS.
FIG. 4 is a side view showing an example of an apparatus for manufacturing the composite high-twist yarn of FIG. 2; in FIGS. 1 to 4, (1) is acetate fiber;
) is a polyester fiber, (3) is a disturbance fluid forming device, (
4) shows a heater plate, and (5) shows a winding device.

The composite strongly twisted yarn shown in FIG. 1 uses heat-shrinkable polyester fibers as the polyester fibers (2), and supplies them together with the acetate fibers (1) to a disturbance fluid forming device (3) to entangle them with each other. It is obtained by subjecting the polyester fiber (2) to a heat treatment to shrink it and then subjecting it to strong twisting.

[0011] Furthermore, when the composite strongly twisted yarn shown in Fig. 2 is supplied to the agitating fluid supply device, the amount of acetate fibers (1) supplied is larger than that of the polyester fibers (2), and the yarns are entangled with each other. It is obtained by strong twisting, and in all the composite strong twist yarns, the polyester fibers (2) are relatively straight and mainly located in the center of the yarn, and the acetate fibers (1) are arranged in a large number of loops. The fibers are intertwined with the polyester fibers (2) in the center and are mainly located at the outer periphery of the yarn, and the entire yarn is in a highly twisted state.

[0012] The polyester fiber (2) used in the present invention is for imparting a reinforcing effect to the yarn,
The composite ratio needs to be 20 to 60%. 2
When it is less than 0%, the strength of the yarn as a composite strong twist yarn decreases, and high temperature dyeing of acetate fiber (1) becomes impossible.
If it exceeds 60%, the coverage of the polyester fiber (2) by the acetate fiber (1) will be insufficient, making it difficult to obtain a deep color.

The acetate fibers used in the present invention may be either diacetate or triacetate fibers.

One of the characteristics of the composite strongly twisted yarn of the present invention is that the L value of the fabric (skinned texture) woven using this composite highly twisted yarn without any special treatment is 9.5 or less. .

[0015] The method for measuring the L value is JIS, Z8722.
A JP7100 spectrocolorimeter (manufactured by JUKI Co., Ltd.) compliant with
°, measurement area 30 mm2, calculation formula *Lab.

[0016] It is said that the smaller the L value, the better. In the case of black formal wear, which requires the highest deep color property, those made from commonly available fibers are 12 or more for wool products, and 12 or more for polyester. (Polyethylene terephthalate) fiber has a refractive index of 11, while acetate fiber, which has the lowest refractive index of the fiber itself, has a refractive index of about 10. To reduce this value, it is necessary to rely on post-treatment with resin, etc., but the composite strong twist yarn of the present invention When using , it is possible to set the L value to 9.5 or less, and if specific conditions are set as described later, the L value can be reduced to about 8.

Of course, the fabric formed using the composite strongly twisted yarn of the present invention may also be subjected to post-processing with a resin or the like, if necessary.

[0018] Next, the method for manufacturing the composite strong twist yarn of the present invention will be explained. In the manufacturing apparatus shown in FIG.
and acetate fibers (1) are supplied to the disturbed fluid forming device (3) in an aligned form, and the yarns are randomly intertwined with each other, and then heat-treated with a heater plate (4) to form polyester fibers (2). The polyester fiber (2) is shrunk and positioned at the center of the yarn, and the less-shrinkable acetate fiber (1) is wound into a winding device (5) as a composite yarn positioned at the outer periphery of the yarn. By further subjecting the thus obtained composite yarn to strong twisting, a highly twisted composite yarn as shown in FIG. 1 can be obtained. In this case, the manufacturing conditions may be set appropriately as necessary, but in general, the overfeed amount when feeding the disturbed fluid to the disturbed fluid forming device (3) in a parallel form is about 3 to 10%. The heat treatment temperature in the heater plate (4) is 180 to 220°C.
It is enough.

It is also possible to use ordinary polyester fibers instead of heat-shrinkable polyester fibers. In that case, as shown in FIG. 4, when feeding the turbulent fluid forming device (3), By making the amount of overfeed of the acetate fiber (1) larger than that of the polyester fiber (2), a composite strongly twisted yarn as shown in FIG. 2 can be obtained without performing heat treatment with the heater plate (4).

In this case, if the single fiber denier of the polyester fibers and acetate fibers used is large, shearing of the coated fibers called "zukkoke" after forming the composite interlaced yarn is likely to occur, but this is caused by stretching after treatment with the turbulent fluid. This can be prevented by heat treatment.

[0021] The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to Examples.

[0022]

[Example 1] Using the two-feed false twisting machine shown in Figure 3, triacetate filament yarn bright 100d
/64f and the drawn polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn SD75d/36f are aligned with an overfeed of 5%, and the air pressure is 3.0Kg/cm2.
After Taslan entanglement with air, 10% heat shrinkage treatment was carried out for 1 time while contacting with a heater plate at 200℃.
00 m/min, the polyethylene terephthalate filament was shrunk, and a bulky composite yarn of 312d was obtained in which the triacetate filament was located at the outer periphery of the yarn in a state in which many loops were formed. The composite yarn was twisted with a double twister at a twisting tension of 50 to 55 g/Y.
00 T/m twisting to obtain a composite highly twisted yarn of 347 d as shown in FIG.

Next, the composite strongly twisted yarn was steam-set at 95° C. for 30 minutes to give a warp density of 60 yarns/inch and a weft yarn density of 4.
A satin textured fabric with two S twists and two Z twists alternated at 5 threads/inch was obtained, and after refining, Dianix Black T
AG 200% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Corporation) dye concentration 6
6 at 120°C by an aqueous solution containing %owf of dispersant.
After dyeing for 0 minutes, reduction cleaning was performed at 60℃ for 15 minutes with an aqueous solution containing 1g/L of hydrosulfite and 1g/L of soda ash, and after drying at 180℃, colorimeter JP-71 was used.
00 (manufactured by JUKI Co., Ltd.), and an L value of 8.9 was obtained.

[0024]

[Example 2] Triacetate filament yarn Bright 75d/
Two 58f polyethylene terephthalate filament yarns and a stretched polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn 50d/12f (conjugate yarn) were entangled with taslan with air at an air pressure of 2.0 kg/cm2 under overfeed conditions of 15% and 3%, respectively. ℃ without contact with the heater plate.
% drawing heat treatment was carried out at 100 m/min to obtain a bulky composite yarn of 215 d in which triacetate filaments were located at the outer periphery of the yarn in a state in which many loops were formed. The composite yarn is 36~40g/double twister.
Figure 2 of 249d twisted with Y twisting tension of 1700T/m
A composite highly twisted yarn was obtained.

Next, the composite strongly twisted yarn was steam-set at 95° C. for 30 minutes to give a warp density of 64 yarns/inch and a weft yarn density of 4.
A fabric with a satin texture in which two S twists and two Z twists were alternated at 8 threads/inch was obtained, and the dyeing process and color measurement were carried out according to Example 1.
An L value of 9.0 was obtained.

[0026]

[Example 3] Composite strong twist yarns with different composite ratios (mixing ratios) of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn were obtained according to Example 1, and the results of weaving, dyeing, and color measurement were performed according to Example 1. Shown in the table.

[0027]

[Table 1]

Comparative Example 1 Triacetate filament yarn Bright 100d/64
Example 1
When the material was twisted at 150 T/m, woven, dyed, and color measured according to the method, an L value of only 9.9 was obtained.

[0029]

Effects of the Invention In the composite strongly twisted yarn of the present invention, the surface layer of the yarn is formed of acetate fibers, so the fabric woven with this yarn is glossy and has a low refractive index that acetate fibers inherently have. In addition, it has a structure that tends to be deep-colored due to the unevenness of the yarn surface layer caused by the agitated fluid, and has a high bathochromic degree with a small L value (9.5 or less).

Furthermore, since no special chemical treatment is required in post-processing, the original feel of the yarn is not impaired, and there is no fear that the adhering chemicals will fall off when worn. In addition, it has great effects such as combining the smoothness of acetate fiber with the stiffness of polyester fiber.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of a composite highly twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a side view showing another example of the composite highly twisted yarn of the present invention.

3 is a side view showing an example of an apparatus for manufacturing the composite highly twisted yarn of FIG. 1. FIG.

4 is a side view showing another example of the apparatus for manufacturing the composite highly twisted yarn of FIG. 2. FIG.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 Acetate fiber 2 Polyester fiber 3 Disturbed fluid forming device 4 Heater plate 5. Winding device 6 1st feed roller 7 Second feed roller 8 First delivery roller 9 Second delivery roller

Claims (1)

[Claims] Claim 1: The polyester fibers are relatively straight and are mainly located in the center of the yarn, the acetate fibers are formed in many loops and are mainly located at the outer periphery of the yarn, and the entire yarn is In addition to being highly twisted, the composite ratio of polyester fiber and acetate fiber is 2:8 ~
A composite high-twist yarn characterized by a ratio of 6:4.