JPH0444007B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to hanging cotton that is sewn to the inside of the shoulder sleeve hem of a clothing jacket.

[Conventional technology]

As shown in FIG. 4, the hanging cotton is attached in a semicircular manner along the seam line of the sleeve, thereby giving an appropriate bulge to the hem of the sleeve at the shoulder. Conventional hanging cotton, for example, is made by sewing felt made of synthetic fibers and a wool core with an appropriate tension cut into linear long and thin tapes, and used to stitch the sleeves into the body when sewing outer garments. When attached, they are sewn together. However, this sewing operation requires considerable skill, and has the disadvantage that, depending on the skill of the operator, it may not be possible to form a very beautiful line at the sleeve hem.

[Structure of the invention]

The present invention has been proposed in order to eliminate the drawbacks of the prior art, and aims to provide a hanging cotton that can always form beautiful sleeve hem lines regardless of differences in the skill of the sewing workers.

The purpose of this is to stack a flexible felt cut into a rectangle and a first wool core, which is also cut into a rectangle and have tension balanced longitudinally, in the longitudinal direction, and in the front region of the first wool core, a rectangular shape is approximated to a straight line. A second stiff hair core cut into a half-moon shape and having a string consisting of an arc with a large radius of curvature is stacked so that the string substantially coincides with one of the long sides of the two layers. A layered structure was formed, and while both the felt and the first hair core were deformed so that the long sides followed the strings of the second hair core, these three were sewn together along the strings to integrate them. This is achieved by using hanging cotton.

The hanging cotton of the present invention configured in this way has a second
Due to the tension of the hair core, the first hair core and the felt portion do not have a correct rectangular shape, and the sewn long sides are deformed to form a curve.

This hanging cotton is used by sewing the felt layer inside the sleeve hem so that the sleeve part faces the outer fabric side and the second wool core is located at the front shoulder part. When sewing this stitch, if you sew a straight line while guiding the curve on the string side along the line of the sleeve attachment, the hanging line will be deformed inside the sleeve hem to follow the hanging line of the sleeve hem.
In particular, the half-moon-shaped portion of the second hair core is three-dimensionally rounded to give tension to the front shoulder. This maintains a uniform bulge in the sleeve hem, and also prevents wrinkles caused by movement of the sleeve when worn.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail based on preferred embodiments shown in the drawings.

〔Example〕

As shown in FIG. 1, the hanging cotton 1 of the present invention has a felt 2 cut into a rectangular tape shape, and a wool core (hereinafter referred to as first wool) which is also cut into a tape shape and has a slightly narrower width. It is constructed by laminating a hair core (hereinafter referred to as a wick) 3 and another hair core cut into a half-moon shape (hereinafter referred to as a second hair core) 4. felt 2
is located on the side that comes into contact with the outer fabric of the sleeve part of the garment when the hanging cotton 1 is attached inside the sleeve hem, and it is necessary to have appropriate friction and flexibility with the outer fabric. . For example, a blend of wool and rayon, or a material made of 100% polyester may be selected as appropriate. The first hair core 3 is used to give waist to the entire hanging line 1 and maintain the beautiful shape of the sleeve hem, so it needs to have an appropriate tension.For example, it is made of yarn made of wool hair and rayon. A plain weave bias fabric is used. The second core 4 is used to maintain the bulge in the front shoulder area in particular, and needs to have the same tension as the first core 3. For example, it is made of a plain weave bias fabric made of a blended yarn of cotton and rayon. etc. are suitable.

These three members 2, 3, and 4 are laminated in the above order and sewn together, and the method will be described below.

The felt 2 and the first hair core 3 are laminated with one of their long sides aligned. On the other hand, the side 5 forming the half-moon chord of the second hair core 4 is not exactly a straight line;
As shown in the figure, it is formed by a circular arc with a large radius of curvature. The second hair core 4 is made of felt 2 and the first hair core 3
In the front region of the laminate, the laminates are stacked and machined so that their arcuate sides 5 coincide with the long sides of the laminate. During suturing, the operator manually attaches the felt 2 and the first hair core so that the laminated linear long side of the felt 2 and the first hair core 3 is along the arcuate side 5 of the second hair core 4. Work is carried out while transforming 3. As a result, in the obtained hanging cotton 1, the second wool core 3
Due to the tension, the laminate of the felt 2 and the first hair core 3 is deformed from the original rectangle indicated by the dashed line,
As shown by the solid line in FIG. 2, it takes on a curved planar shape. In addition, the code|symbol 6 shows the suture line of a sewing machine.

If this degree of curvature is expressed as the angle θ that the straight line l connecting the curve starting point P of the felt 2 and the lower edge point Q of its front end makes with the original straight long side m, then θ=5 to 10° is a preferable range. be.

The hanging line obtained in this way is determined by following the normal procedure during sewing so that the felt 2 faces the outer fabric side at the upper part of the shoulder and the second wool core 4 is located at the front shoulder part 7. Then, it is placed inside the shoulder of the upper garment, and sewn together with the sleeve fabric to the periphery of the armhole while being controlled so that the stitch line 6 is stretched linearly. In order to sew the rectangular laminate of the felt 2 and the first hair core 3 which are curved in this way while stretching them in a straight line, the long side (free end) of the hanging cotton 1 that is not sewn has a three-dimensional shape. It deforms by drawing a downward curve and adapts to the shape of the sleeve hem, especially the front shoulder.

〔Effect of the invention〕

As described in detail above, according to the present invention, in a hanging cotton having a tripartite structure of felt, a first hair core, and a second hair core, the string of the second hair core cut into a half-moon shape is formed into a large circular arc. , the long sides of the first two straight lines were curved to match this, and the three sides were sewn together, so the hanging cotton itself curved naturally during sewing, forming a beautiful sleeve hemline. When wearing clothes using this material, it is possible to prevent wrinkles from occurring due to movement of the sleeves. Moreover, even an unskilled seamstress can create beautiful sleeve hem lines with relative ease.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a plan view showing the structure of the hanging cotton of the present invention;
Figure 2 is an enlarged plan view showing the details of the shape, Figure 3
The figure is a side view of a clothing jacket with hanging lines attached. 1... hanging cotton, 2... felt, 3... first hair core, 4... second hair core, 5... arcuate side, 6... suture line.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A flexible felt cut into a rectangle and a first wool wick cut into a rectangle and having a well-balanced tension are laminated in the longitudinal direction, and the front area has a large curvature that approximates a straight line. A taut second hair core cut into a half-moon shape having a chord having a radius of an arc is laminated so that the string substantially coincides with one of the long sides of the two laminated layers to form a three-layer structure. None, characterized in that both the felt and the first hair core are deformed so that the long sides follow the strings of the second hair core, and these three are sewn together along the strings to integrate them. The hanging cotton.