JPH0547664B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a waterproof fabric with excellent breathability suitable for producing rainwear, particularly rainwear for sports. (Conventional technology) Conventionally, raincoats have been made of rubberized cloth or coated with polyvinyl chloride, but while they have excellent waterproof properties, they tend to get stuffy easily and are not suitable for strenuous activities such as sports. This material was unsuitable for use as a raincoat material when wearing raincoats. In recent years, for example, as disclosed in JP-A No. 55-98971, fabrics have been coated with a polyurethane solution and regenerated wet to give the coating layer a microporous structure, or stretched to have micro-fissures. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics, such as polytetrafluoroethylene film laminated to fabrics, are used. In this case, the microporous waterproof layer is based on the technical concept of allowing sweat vapor to pass through but not rain droplets, but because it is microporous, it has poor breathability (usually less than 0.5 cc/cm ² sec) and is used at low temperatures. Although it is an excellent raincoat for seasons when it is difficult to sweat, it is extremely easy to get stuffy when the temperature gets high because the hot air inside the garment cannot escape to the outside. There are also waterproof fabrics made from fine fibers (usually 1 denier or less) that are made into high-density fabrics and treated to be water-repellent, but they still have poor breathability (usually 1 c.c./cm ² sec or less) and cannot overcome the above drawbacks. . (Problems to be Solved by the Invention) Conventional waterproof fabrics have poor breathability, and when exercising vigorously, heat gets trapped inside the clothes, making it easy to get stuffy, especially during the hot spring and summer seasons. The object of the present invention is to solve this problem, that is, to provide a material for rainwear that has excellent breathability and waterproof properties. (Means for solving the problem) That is, the present invention uses high shrinkage nylon filament (A)
and nylon crimped yarn (B) with a single yarn denier of 1.5 denier or less, and a mixed yarn with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4500 is used for the warp and/or weft. The sum of the cover factors in the weft direction is 1900 or more, the air content is 60% or more,
Furthermore, the surface is water repellent, and the surface layer of at least one side is compressed at a pressure compression ratio of 5 to 25% to have a microporous structure. nylon filament
(A) and nylon crimped yarn (B) with a single yarn denier of 1.5 denier or less are mixed together, and then the sum of the cover factors is It can be obtained by weaving the material to a fiber density of 1900 or higher, then applying a water repellent treatment, and then applying a heating and pressing treatment at a compression ratio of 5 to 25%. High shrinkage nylon filament (A) in the present invention
is as follows. 6. Nylon, 6.6.
The shrinkage rate of polyamide filaments such as nylon is usually set so that the shrinkage rate is several percent after hot stretching and heat setting.
However, in the case of nylon filaments, it is extremely easy to set a high shrinkage rate using the method described below. During stretching, the stretching ratio may be set low or heat setting may be omitted. A filament that has been spun at high speed (usually at a speed of 2500 m/min or more) is used. By using the above method, the shrinkage rate can be set to 10 to 60%, but the method is suitable from the viewpoint of cost and ease of manufacturing. The shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage nylon filament (A) used in the present invention is preferably 10 to 20%. As will be described later, the feature of the fabric of the present invention is that it has excellent breathability despite being a high-density fabric, but high shrinkage nylon filament (A) is used to increase the density of the fabric. There is,
From the viewpoint of texture and stability of physical properties, the shrinkage rate is
10-20% is preferable. That is, if the shrinkage rate is too small, it will be difficult to increase the density, and if the shrinkage rate is too large, the texture of the fabric will be rough and hard, and the physical properties will also be unstable, which is not preferable. Further, the blending ratio of the high shrinkage nylon filament (A) in the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably 20 to 50% by weight for the above-mentioned reasons. That is, if the blending ratio is lower than this range, it is difficult to achieve high shrinkage, and if it is higher than this range, not only will the texture of the fabric become rough and hard, but also the bulkiness will decrease, making it impossible to obtain the effects of the present invention. Further, the single yarn denier of the high shrinkage nylon filament (A) is preferably 1 to 4 deniers. This is because the denier of the crimped yarn to be blended is set to 1.5 denier or less, so if it is too thin, the fabric will lose its elasticity, and if it is too thick, the texture will become rough and stiff and the quality will deteriorate. The nylon crimped yarn (B) in the present invention is a self-crimped yarn produced by side-by-side conjugate spinning of false twisted yarn, shaped yarn, abraded yarn, or two-component polymers with different shrinkage properties. Expression-type composite yarns can be used, but false twisted yarns are preferred from the viewpoint of cost, ease of control of crimp, etc. In the case of a false twisted yarn, a crimped yarn processed under general conditions can be used. For example, in the case of 70 denier filament, the twist number is 3100 to 3500T/M,
3900~ for 50 denier filament
When using a false twisted yarn with one heater, which can be processed at 4300T/M, the expansion and contraction recovery rate is 15 to 45%. The single yarn denier of the nylon crimped yarn (B) must be 1.5 denier or less. That is, if it exceeds 1.5 denier, the dispersibility of air in the air layer in the fabric decreases, making it impossible to obtain excellent waterproof properties.
From this point of view, the thinner the single yarn denier of the crimped yarn is, the better the stronger the crimping. However, in reality, the thinner the yarn, the weaker the crimping, which in turn lowers the air content and reduces the dispersibility of air. Since it tends to deteriorate, 0.3 denier or more is preferable. Methods of mixing high shrinkage nylon filament (A) and nylon crimped yarn (B) include plying, covering,
Although there are methods such as air jet blending, air jet blending is preferable from the viewpoint of cost and the like. What is more important in the present invention is to subject the thus obtained mixed fiber yarn to actual twisting with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4,500. When the twist coefficient is less than 700, the high shrinkage nylon filament (A) will be exposed on the surface layer of the mixed yarn, easily forming pinholes in parts, and the air dispersion will be poor, resulting in poor water resistance and waterproof properties. This causes a decrease in the twist coefficient.
If it exceeds 4,500, it will impede the dispersion of air and create gaps between adjacent threads, improving breathability, which is in a favorable direction, but it will lead to a decrease in water resistance and waterproofness.
Also, the texture becomes hard. Such a mixed fiber yarn is woven by using it for the weft or warp, or both, but it is preferable to use it for at least the weft. Further, in the present invention, the sum of the warp cover factor and the weft cover factor must be 1900 or more, preferably 2000 or more. If the sum of the cover factors is small, the above-mentioned air dispersibility will be poor, and the waterproof property will be poor. In the case of the waterproof fabric of the present invention,
As mentioned above, since crimped yarn is mainly used, even if the density is increased (even if the cover factor value is increased), breathability is easily maintained, but the cover factor is not very large. Since the fabric is coarse and hard and easily becomes heavy, the sum of the cover factors is 2000 to 3000.
The following is preferable, and 2400 or more and 3000 or less is particularly preferable. Another important requirement in the present invention is air content. The air content rate is determined by a measuring method as described below, and indicates the size of the air layer present in the fabric. In the case of the present invention, air permeability can be achieved by not only the yarn structure and fabric structure described above but also the fact that sufficient air is contained in the fabric. Therefore, the air content of this waterproof fabric must be 60% or more; if it is less than 60%, the air permeability will be poor. In order to obtain such an air content, nylon crimped yarn may generally be used as described above, but it is particularly preferable to perform processing after weaving under the following processing conditions. In other words, when using a crimped yarn that has been false-twisted using a two-heater method, the crimping is uniform, but the bulkiness is low. The development of curling should be done as much as possible. On the other hand, when a crimped yarn subjected to a one-heater false twisting process is used, the relaxing condition may be at a relatively low temperature, for example, 60 to 80°C, since the yarn is bulky. Next, it is necessary for the woven fabric of the present invention to have a water-repellent surface, and it is preferable that the woven fabric is subjected to a water-repellent treatment or the like. When textiles have poor water repellency, the fibers tend to get wet, making it easier for water to penetrate through the air spaces. Fluorine-based finishing agents, silicone-based finishing agents, etc. can be used as such water-repellent finishing agents, but the former, ie, organic fluorine compounds containing perfluorooxyalkyl groups, are preferred from the viewpoint of affinity with nylon and durability. be. These are usually 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1% by weight.
By adding up to 8% by weight and baking at 150 to 180°C, water repellency with excellent durability can be obtained. still,
Since the waterproof fabric of the present invention has many and uniform voids, it is easy to apply the water repellent agent evenly and even to the inside of the fabric, and it also has excellent durability against washing and other purposes. becomes. The present invention requires heating and pressing treatment after the water repellent treatment as described above. Heating and pressing treatment is 170~200
20 ~ using a calendering machine etc. heated to ℃
It is necessary to carry out the pressing with a pressing force of 30 tons, and to set the pressing compression rate as specified later in the range of 5 to 25%. Compression rate is 5
% or less, the pressing effect is small, and if it exceeds 25%, the waterproofness is good, but the breathability is significantly reduced, which is not preferable. Further, it is preferable to apply the heating and pressing treatment to only one side, and particularly to the side that has been subjected to water repellent treatment. This breathable waterproof fabric before being heated and pressed also has many pores inside, but the surface layer is water repellent, so it has both breathability and water repellency to some extent. However, since the distribution of pores is not uniform, the pores may converge in some areas to form pinholes, which deteriorates water pressure resistance and water discharge performance. On the other hand, if heating and pressing is applied, the pores are compressed and become fine pores, and are uniformly dispersed, which is effective in preventing the passage of raindrops and the like. In addition, as a finishing method for this fabric, raising and fluffing the surface fibers with needle cloth raising, emery paper, etc. is effective to soften the texture and improve the feel. If it is implemented, the performance obtained is still suitable. (Function) The reason why the fabric of the present invention has excellent waterproof properties while being highly breathable is considered to be as follows.
The woven fabric of the present invention includes a filament having crimpability,
It is woven with a blended yarn of high shrinkage filaments, making it highly dense, and the air content in the fabric is reduced.
It has an abundance of over 60%. Therefore,
Air can move through the air layer, and since the fabric is water-repellent, it is difficult for raindrops to enter the air layer. In other words, conventional waterproof cloth is a mesh filter, and because of the principle of surface filtration that filters things through the mesh size, it does not allow rainwater to pass through, but it is difficult for air to pass through.
The waterproof fabric of the present invention uses the same principle as deep filtration, which is a method of straining water through sand, and the thickness of the fabric,
In other words, the fine air layers uniformly dispersed in the fabric by pressure compression prevent raindrops from entering (in terms of filtration, passing foreign matter). Therefore, when looking through the fabric, pinholes can clearly be seen at the positions of the weave, and even if the fabric has a high density and high air content, it has low waterproof properties. Furthermore, since the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention has a real twist, the highly shrinkable nylon filament (A) is located in the core of the mixed fiber yarn, and the bulkiness of the nylon curled yarn (B) can be easily made uniform. Therefore, the gaps between adjacent filaments are filled, and the air is evenly distributed in the fabric, resulting in fewer pinholes occurring between the filaments, improving air permeability, water pressure resistance, and waterproofness. They can be improved at the same time. (Effects of the Invention) As described above, the waterproof fabric according to the present invention has a sufficient air layer inside, has extremely excellent waterproofness and breathability, is flexible and soft, and is suitable for rainwear. It is useful as a material for clothing, and in particular, when wearing a raincoat made of this waterproof fabric during sports, etc., it provides unprecedented comfort. (Example) Measurement method The measurement method of various data in the present invention is as follows. 1 Shrinkage rate Remove skeins that have been removed 5 times using a skein removal machine.
Immerse in hot water at 95-100℃ for 1 minute under a load of 0.001g/d to shrink, and after drying, reduce the original length to L,
Letting the length after contraction be l, it is determined by the following formula. L-l/L×100 (%) 2 Denier JIS L-1013 method When calculating the cover factor, unravel the warp and weft from the fabric and take them out for measurement. 3 Cover factor Number of threads per inch x √ (D is denier) 4 Water repellency JIS L-1092 (spray method) 5 Air content [1-Weight per square centimeter of fabric (g/cm
² )/Nylon density (1.14g/ ^cm2 ) x thickness (cm)] x
100 Thickness measurement is based on JIS L-1096 6 Water pressure JIS L-1092 method (A method) 7 Rain test AATCC (Displayed by passed level Shower < Lane <
Storm level) 8 Air permeability JIS L-1096 method (A method) 9 Expansion and recovery rate JIS-L-1090 10 Twist number calculation formula T = Number of twists a = Twist coefficient D = Fineness (denier) SG = Specific gravity (nylon 1.14) 11 Pressing compression ratio Compression ratio = P ₀ - _{P 1} /P ₀ ×100 P ₀ = Thickness of unpressed fabric (mm) P ₁ = Thickness of pressed cloth (mm) Example 1 A 6-nylon polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was melted in an extruder, extruded through an orifice heated to 265°C, and wound at 1000 m/min to obtain an undrawn yarn. The undrawn yarn was stretched 3.5 times with a stretching roller to obtain a highly shrinkable nylon filament _A1 of 70d/36f. The heat shrinkage of _A1 was 16.2%. Next, regular 6-nylon filament 52d/36f
(F ₁ ) was false-twisted using a two-heater method under the following conditions to obtain crimped yarn B ₁ from F ₁ . _B1 was subjected to false twisting under false twisting conditions. The stretch recovery rate of false twisted yarn B ₁ is 15.2
It was %. False twisting conditions Spindle rotation speed 400000 rpm, twisted yarn S direction
3424T/M Feed rate 1st +2% 2nd 12.5% Heater temperature 1st 215% 2nd 205℃ Next, a blend obtained by mixing high shrinkage 6-nylon filament A ₁ and 6-nylon false twisted yarn B ₁ using an air jet. C _1-1 to C _1-5 were obtained by twisting the untwisted yarn C ₁ and the mixed yarn C ₁ . Each of the above mixed yarns is used for the warp and weft,
Fabric 1-6 is woven with plain weave and processed under the following conditions.
Fabrics 1'-6' were obtained by applying a compression ratio of 10% to each of the fabrics. Table 1 shows the characteristic values of the fabric obtained. It can be seen that the woven fabric of the present invention has excellent breathability, and by twisting it, it becomes even more waterproof. Processing process and conditions Relaxation Relaxation in hot water at 95℃ for 20 to 30 seconds Drying Dry at 100℃ with short loop dryer Preset Width 190℃ for 30 seconds Dyeing Using a jet dyeing machine, dye at 100℃ using acid dye, It was dyed red. Same as drying Water repellent treatment Use fluorine water repellent (2% OWF attached) Finishing set Baking at 170℃ for 30 seconds

[Table] Example 2 The C _1-3 obtained in Example 1 was used for the warp and weft, and was woven in a plain weave, processed almost in the same manner as in Example 1, and the compression ratio was 0, 5, 15. , 25 and 30% were obtained. Table 2 shows the characteristic values. Further, FIG. 1 is a weft cross-sectional photograph of a fabric with a press compression rate of 15%, and FIG. 2 is a weft cross-sectional photograph (100 times) of a fabric with a press compression ratio of 0%. It can be seen that by pressing, a uniform micropore structure can be obtained, and it exhibits excellent waterproof properties while having breathability.

[Table] Example 3 Normal 6 nylon filament (F ₁ ) of Example 1 and normal 6 nylon filament 70d/36f for warp
(F ₂ ) was mixed by air jet under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain C ₂ . Using this C ₂ yarn and using the C _1-3 obtained in Example 1 as the weft, weave it in a plain weave and process it in almost the same manner as in Example 1 to make fabrics 12 and 1.
13 with a compression ratio of 15% was obtained for the fabric of No. 2. The properties of the fabric were as shown in Table 3. It can be seen that while the fabric 13 is highly breathable, it exhibits excellent waterproof properties when twisted and pressed at the same time.

【table】

【table】

【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a lateral cross-sectional photograph of a breathable waterproof fabric according to the present invention, and Fig. 2 is a lateral cross-sectional photograph (100x magnification) of a breathable waterproof fabric that has not been subjected to pressure compression treatment.
Each indicates the shape of the fiber.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Highly shrinkable nylon filament (A) and nylon crimped yarn (B) with a single filament denier of 1.5 denier or less
A blended yarn with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4500 is used for the warp and/or weft, the sum of the cover factors in the warp and weft directions is 1900 or more, and the air content is 60%. A breathable waterproof fabric as described above, further characterized in that the surface has water repellency, and the surface layer portion of at least one side is compressed at a compression ratio of 5 to 25% to have a microporous structure. 2. After mixing high-shrinkage nylon filament (A) and nylon curled yarn (B) with a single yarn denier of 1.5 denier or less, the cover is made using a mixed fiber yarn that is twisted with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4500. A method for producing a breathable waterproof fabric, which comprises weaving the fabric so that the sum of the factors is 1900 or more, and then subjecting it to water repellency treatment, followed by heating and pressing treatment at a compression ratio of 5 to 25%.