JPH031417B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a waterproof fabric with excellent breathability suitable for producing rainwear, particularly rainwear for sports. (Conventional technology) Conventionally, raincoats have been made of rubberized cloth or coated with polyvinyl chloride, but while they have excellent waterproof properties, they tend to get stuffy easily and are not suitable for strenuous activities such as sports. This material was unsuitable for use as a raincoat material when wearing raincoats. In recent years, for example, as disclosed in JP-A No. 55-98971, fabrics have been coated with a polyurethane solution and regenerated wet to give the coating layer a microporous structure, or stretched to have micro-fissures. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics, such as polytetrafluoroethylene film laminated to fabrics, are used. In this case, the microporous waterproof layer is based on the technical concept of allowing sweat vapor to pass through but not rain droplets, but because it is microporous, it has poor breathability (usually less than 0.5 cc/cm ² sec) and is used at low temperatures. Although it is an excellent raincoat for seasons when it is difficult to sweat, it is extremely easy to get stuffy when the temperature gets high because the hot air inside the garment cannot escape to the outside. There are also waterproof fabrics made of fine fibers (usually 1 denier or less) that are made of high-density fabrics and treated to be water repellent, but they still have poor breathability (usually 1 c.c./cm ² ·sec or less), and the above disadvantages cannot be overcome. Not yet. (Problems to be solved by the invention) Conventional waterproof fabrics have poor breathability, and when you exercise vigorously, heat gets trapped inside your clothes, making it easy to get stuffy, especially in the hot spring and summer seasons. The object of the invention is to solve this problem, that is, to provide a material for rainwear that has excellent breathability and water resistance. (Means for solving the problem) That is, the present invention is a blend of high shrinkage polyester filament A and polyester crimped yarn B having a single yarn denier of 1.5 denier or less, and a twist coefficient of 700 to 700.
It is made by using blended yarn with a real twist of 4500 for the warp and/or weft, the sum of the cover factor in the warp and weft directions is 1900 or more, the air content is 60% or more, and the surface is water repellent. This is a breathable waterproof fabric characterized by having the following characteristics. The high shrinkage polyester filament A in the present invention is as follows. The shrinkage rate of polyester filaments, typified by polyethylene terephthalate, is usually set so that the shrinkage rate is several percent after hot stretching and heat setting.
However, in the case of polyester filaments, it is extremely easy to set a high shrinkage rate using the method described below. When the polymer to be spun is a copolymer, for example, polyethylene terephthalate, isophthalic acid is used as part of the acid component. During stretching, the stretching ratio may be set low or heat setting may be omitted. A filament that has been spun at high speed (usually at a speed of 2500 m/min or more) is used. By using the above method, the shrinkage rate can be set at 10 to 60%, but from the viewpoint of cost and ease of production, method 2 is more suitable. preferred in terms of stability. The shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage polyester filament A used in the present invention is preferably 10 to 20%. As will be described later, the feature of the woven fabric of the present invention is that it has excellent breathability despite being a high-density woven fabric.High shrinkage polyester filament A is used to increase the density of the woven fabric. From the viewpoint of texture and stability of physical properties, the shrinkage rate is preferably 10 to 20%. That is, if the shrinkage rate is too small, it will be difficult to increase the density, and if the shrinkage rate is too large, the texture of the fabric will be rough and hard, and the physical properties will also be unstable, which is not preferable. Further, the blending ratio of high shrinkage polyester filament A in the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably 20 to 50% by weight for the above-mentioned reasons. That is,
If the blending ratio is lower than this range, it will be difficult to achieve high shrinkage, and if it is higher than this range, the texture of the fabric will not only become rough and hard, but also the bulkiness will decrease, making it impossible to obtain the effects of the present invention. Further, the single yarn denier of the high shrinkage polyester filament A is preferably 1 to 3 deniers. This is because the denier of the crimped yarn to be blended is set to 1.5 denier or less, so if it is too thin, the fabric will lose its elasticity, and if it is too thick, the texture will become rough and stiff and the quality will deteriorate. The polyester crimped yarn B in the present invention is a self-crimping type in which a false twisted yarn, a shaped yarn, a rubbed yarn, or a two-component polymer with different shrinkability is spun in a side-by-side concatenation type to develop crimping. Although composite yarns and the like can be used, false twisted yarns are preferred from the viewpoint of cost, ease of control of crimp, etc. In the case of a false twisted yarn, a crimped yarn processed under general conditions can be used. For example, in the case of 75 denier filament, the number of twists is 3100 to 3500 T/M.
So, 3900 ~ for 50 denier filament
If you use false twisted yarn with 1 heater, which can be processed at 4300T/M, the expansion/recovery rate will be 35-50%, resulting in strong crimp and the surface of the fabric may be disturbed, so false twisting with 2 heaters is recommended. It is preferable to use thread. In the case of 2 heaters, the expansion/contraction recovery rate is 10-20%
If the content is more preferably set to 12 to 18%, a woven fabric with excellent performance and quality can be obtained. Single yarn denier of polyester crimped yarn B is 1.5
It must be less than denier. That is,
If it exceeds 1.5 denier, the dispersibility of air in the air layer in the fabric will decrease, making it impossible to obtain excellent waterproof properties. From this point of view, the thinner the single yarn denier of the crimped yarn is, the better it is in order to obtain strong crimping, but in reality, the thinner the denier, the weaker the crimping, which in turn lowers the air content and reduces air dispersibility. Because it tends to get worse,
It is preferably 0.3 denier or more. Methods for blending the high shrinkage polyester filament A and the polyester crimped yarn B include methods such as plying, covering, and air jet blending, but air jet blending is preferred from the viewpoint of cost and the like. What is more important in the present invention is to subject the thus obtained mixed fiber yarn to actual twisting with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4,500. When the twist coefficient is less than 700, the high shrinkage polyester filament A is exposed on the surface layer of the mixed yarn, easily forming pinholes in some areas, and air dispersion becomes poor, resulting in a decrease in water pressure resistance and waterproof properties. If the twist coefficient exceeds 4500, air dispersion will be hindered and gaps will be created between adjacent yarns, improving breathability.
Although this is in a favorable direction, it leads to a decrease in water pressure resistance and waterproofness, and the texture becomes hard. Such a mixed yarn is woven using the weft or the warp, or both, but it is preferable to use it at least as the weft. Further, in the present invention, the sum of the warp cover factor and the weft cover factor must be 1900 or more, preferably 2000 or more. If the sum of the cover factors is small, the above-mentioned air dispersibility will be poor, and the waterproof property will be poor. In the case of the waterproof fabric of the present invention,
As mentioned above, since crimped yarn is mainly used, even if the density is increased (even if the cover factor value is increased), breathability is easily maintained, but the cover factor is not very large. Since the fabric is coarse and hard and easily becomes heavy, the sum of the cover factors is 2000 to 3000.
The following is preferable, and 2400 or more and 3000 or less is particularly preferable. Another important requirement in the present invention is air content. The air content rate is determined by a measuring method as described below, and indicates the size of the air layer present in the fabric. In the case of the present invention, air permeability is achieved by the yarn structure and fabric structure as described above, as well as the fact that sufficient air is contained in the fabric. Therefore, the air content of the waterproof fabric must be 60% or more, preferably 65% or more; if it is less than 60%, the air permeability will be poor. In order to obtain such an air content, generally the polyester crimped yarn may be used as described above, but it is particularly preferable to perform processing after weaving under the following processing conditions. In other words, when using a crimped yarn that has been false-twisted using a two-heater method, the crimping is uniform, but the bulkiness is low. The development of curling should be done as much as possible. On the other hand, when a crimped yarn subjected to a one-heater false twisting process is used, the relaxing condition may be at a relatively low temperature, for example, 60 to 80°C, since the yarn is bulky. In addition, there is a conventional method of calendering (dipping) for the purpose of improving waterproofness, but this is not preferable because it lowers the air content and impairs breathability. Next, it is necessary for the woven fabric of the present invention to have a water-repellent surface, and it is preferable that the woven fabric is subjected to a water-repellent treatment or the like. When textiles have poor water repellency, the fibers tend to get wet, making it easier for water to penetrate through the air spaces. As such water repellent finishing agents, fluorine-based finishing agents, silicone-based finishing agents, etc. can be used, but the former, ie, organic fluorine compounds containing perfluoroalkyl groups, are preferred from the viewpoint of hydrophilicity with the polyester polymer and durability. be. If these are added in an amount of usually 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and baked at 150 to 180°C, water repellency with excellent durability can be obtained. In addition, since the waterproof fabric of the present invention has many and uniform voids, it is easy to apply the water repellent agent uniformly and even to the inside of the fabric, and the baking temperature of the water repellent agent can be adjusted evenly. Since it is a polyester fabric that can be made high, it is easy to produce water repellent effects, and it also has excellent durability against washing and other purposes. In addition, as a finishing method for this fabric, it is effective to raise or fluff the surface fibers with needle cloth raising, emery paper, etc. to soften the texture and improve the feel. It is preferable to carry out this method without changing the performance obtained. (Function) The reason why the fabric of the present invention has excellent waterproof properties while being highly breathable is considered to be as follows.
The woven fabric of the present invention includes a filament having crimpability,
It is woven with a blended yarn of high shrinkage filaments, making it highly dense, and the air content in the fabric is reduced.
It has an abundance of over 60%. Therefore,
Air can move through the air layer, and since the fabric is water-repellent, it is difficult for raindrops to enter the air layer. In other words, conventional waterproof cloth is a mesh filter, and because of the principle of surface layer filtering that filters things through the size of the mesh, it does not allow rainwater to pass through, but it does not allow air to pass through. Waterproof cloth works on the same principle as deep filtration, which is the method used to filter water through sand.The thickness of the fabric, that is, the fine air layers evenly dispersed within the fabric, prevents the infiltration of raindrops (in other words, the passage of foreign objects). This is to prevent Therefore, when looking through the fabric, pinholes can clearly be seen at the positions of the weave lines, and even if the fabric has a high density and a high air content, its waterproofness is low. Furthermore, since the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention has a real twist, the highly shrinkable polyester filament A is located in the core of the mixed fiber yarn, and the bulkiness of the polyester curled yarn B can be easily made uniform. Therefore, the gaps between adjacent filaments are filled, and the air is also evenly distributed in the fabric, resulting in fewer pinholes occurring between filaments, improving air permeability, water pressure resistance, and waterproofness at the same time. It can be improved. (Effects of the Invention) As described above, the waterproof fabric according to the present invention has a sufficient air layer inside, has extremely excellent waterproofness and breathability, and is useful as a material for raincoats, particularly: If you wear a raincoat made from this waterproof fabric during sports, you will experience unprecedented comfort. (Example) Measuring method The method of measuring various data in the present invention is as follows. 1 Shrinkage rate 0.001g/5 times of skein removal with skein removal machine
Immerse it in hot water at 95-100℃ for 1 minute under a load of d,
After shrinking and drying, the original length is L, and the length after shrinkage is L, and is determined by the following formula. L-l/L×100 (%) 2 Denier JIS L-1013 method When calculating the cover factor, unravel the warp and weft from the fabric and take them out for measurement. 3 Cover factor Number of threads per inch x √ (D is denier) 4 Water repellency JIS L-1092 (spray method) 5 Air content (1-Weight per square centimeter of fabric (g)
/cm ² )/Polyester density (138g/cm ³ ) x thickness (c
m))×100 Thickness measurement is according to JIS L-1096 6 Water resistance JIS L-1092 (A method) 7 Rain test AATCC (displayed by passing level) Shower < lane < storm level) 8 Air permeability JIS L-1096 (A) method) 9 Expansion/contraction recovery rate JIS-L-1090 10 Twist number calculation formula

[Formula] T = number of twists a = twist coefficient D = fineness (denier) SG = specific gravity (polyester 1.38) Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate with a specific viscosity of 0.65 was melted in an extruder and extruded for 1100 m from an orifice heated to 295°C. An undrawn yarn was obtained by winding the yarn in minutes. The undrawn yarn was drawn 3.85 times using a drawing roller heated to 80°C to obtain a highly shrinkable polyester filament _A1 of 50d/24f. The hot water shrinkage rate of _A1 was 15.8%. Next, regular polyester filament 75d/72f
(F ₁ ) was false-twisted using a two-heater method under the following conditions to obtain crimped yarn B ₁ from F ₁ . _B1 was subjected to false twisting under false twisting conditions. The stretch recovery rate of false twisted yarn B ₁ is 14.8
It was %. False twisting conditions Spindle rotation speed 400000 rpm, twisted yarn S direction
3424T/M Feed rate 1st +2% 2nd 12.5% Heater concentration 1st 215℃ 2nd 205℃ Next, high shrinkage yarn polyester filament A ₁
and polyester false twisted yarn B ₁ were mixed by air jet to obtain untwisted yarn of mixed fiber C ₁ and C _1-1 to C _1-10 in which the mixed fiber yarn C ₁ was twisted. Each of the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarns was used for the warp and weft, plain weaving was carried out, and various fabrics were obtained by processing under the following conditions. Table 1 Table 1 shows the characteristic values of the obtained fabric.
It can be seen that the woven fabric of the present invention has excellent breathability, and by twisting it, it becomes even more waterproof. Processing process and conditions Relaxation Relax in hot water at 95℃ for 20 to 30 seconds Drying Dry at 100℃ with a short loop dryer Breset 190℃ with width for 30 seconds Dye using a jet dyeing machine and dye at 130℃ using disperse dye , dyed gray. Same as drying Water repellent treatment Uses fluorine water repellent (2% OVF,
It was attached. ) Finishing set Baking 180℃, 30 seconds

[Table] Example 2 Using C ₁ and C _1-3 obtained in Example 1 for the warp and weft, respectively, weaving was carried out by plain weaving, and the fabrics 7 and 8 were processed almost in the same manner as in Example 1. Obtained. The properties of the fabric were as shown in Table 2. It can be seen that by twisting the yarn used, it has high breathability and excellent waterproof properties.

【table】

[Table] Example 3 Using the normal polyester filament (F ₁ ) of Example 1 for the warp, and using C ₁ and C _1-3 obtained in Example 1 for the weft, the structure shown in Figure 1 was obtained. After weaving, fabrics 9 and 10 were processed almost in the same manner as in Example 1.
I got it. The properties of the fabric were as shown in Table 2. It can be seen that while the fabric 10 is highly breathable, it exhibits excellent waterproof properties when twisted.

【table】

[Table] Example 4 High shrinkage polyester filament 30d/12f _A2 was obtained in substantially the same manner as in Example 1. The hot water shrinkage rate of _A2 was 14.9%. Next is usually polyester filament 50d/48f,
False-twist 50d/72f under the following false-twisting conditions and create a crimped yarn.
B ₂ and B ₃ were obtained. The stretch recovery rates of the wound yarns B ₂ and B ₃ were 15.3% and 14.7%, respectively. False twisting conditions Spindle rotation 450000 rpm, number of twists S4100T/M Feed ratio 1st +2% 2nd 12.5% Heater temperature 1st 215℃ 2nd 205℃ High shrinkage polyester filaments A ₂ and B ₂ , A ₂
and B ₃ are mixed by air jet, and mixed yarn C ₂ ,
Mixed fiber yarns of C ₃ untwisted yarn and C _2-1 and C _3-1 in which C ₂ and C ₃ were twisted in the twisting direction S280T/M were obtained. The mixed fiber yarns C ₂ , C ₃ , C _2-1 , and C _3-1 were used for the warp and weft, respectively, and were produced with the structure shown in FIG. 2, and in almost the same manner as in Example 1. Obtained textiles. Table 4 shows the characteristic values of the fabric. It can be seen that the fabric of the present invention has excellent water resistance while being highly breathable.

【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIGS. 1 and 2 are organization charts showing an example of the fabric of the present invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. High shrinkage polyester filament A and polyester crimped yarn B having a single yarn denier of 1.5 denier or less are mixed, and the mixed yarn has a real twist with a twist coefficient of 700 to 4500. A breathable waterproof fabric which is used for the weft and/or weft, has a sum of cover factors in the warp and weft directions of 1900 or more, has an air content of 60% or more, and has a water-repellent surface. 2. The breathable waterproof fabric according to claim 1, wherein the high shrinkage polyester filament A has a single yarn denier of 1 to 3 denier and a shrinkage rate of 10 to 20%. 3 Polyester crimped yarn B has a stretch recovery rate of 10 to 20%
The breathable waterproof fabric according to claim 1, which is a false twisted yarn. 4 High shrinkage polyester filament A of mixed fiber yarn
Claim 1 in which the proportion of is 20 to 50% by weight
Breathable waterproof fabric as described in section. 5 Mixed fiber yarn is high shrinkage polyester filament A
2. The breathable waterproof fabric according to claim 1, which is made of an air jet blend of polyester crimped yarn B and polyester crimped yarn B. 6. The breathable waterproof fabric according to claim 1, which has an organic compound containing a perfluoroalkyl group on its surface.