JPH0921028A - Polyester multifilament composite yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain composite yarn containing at least one kind of self- extensible multifilament yarns, having suitably swollen, soft and dry touches in addition to a silky touch, and capable of being processed into a woven or knitted fabric free from an excessively soft touch and a heavy touch. SOLUTION: (A) One or more polyester filament yarns exhibiting a negative dry thermal shrinkage factor at 160 deg.C and (B) one or more polyester filament yarns exhibiting a positive dry thermal shrinkage factor at 160 deg.C are paralleled, doubled, and further subjected to an air interlacing blending treatment, etc., to produce the polyester multifilament composite yarn. The structure integral parameter ε0.2 (%), boiling water shrinkage factor SHW (%), crystallinity χc (%) and birefringence constant Δn of the component A satisfy the following relations; (1) -0.10<=SHW/ε0.2 <=0; (2) 10<=ε0.2 <=70; (3) χc <=20.0; and (4) 0.020<=Δn <=0.080.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament composite yarn and a method for producing the same.
More specifically, at least one type of multifilament yarn constituting the polyester multifilament composite yarn has self-stretchability. By weaving and knitting using the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven and knitted fabric having a new texture, which is excellent in bulkiness, is soft and rich in swelling, and has an appropriate dry feeling.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a means for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric rich in bulkiness, a low-shrinkable filament and a high-shrinkable filament are combined into a filament-mixed yarn, and the filament-mixed yarn is used for weaving and knitting and dyeing. A large number of different-shrinkage mixed fiber yarns have been proposed in which bulkiness is exhibited by the difference in shrinkage due to heat treatment in the process. However, these products can be given a silky texture by loosening the fibers and texture by combining with alkali weight loss processing, but it has a fuzzy or bloating feeling, and it has a texture similar to silk. It was not enough to impart a new texture to the woven or knitted fabric.

As a polyester woven or knitted fabric rich in dry feeling and refreshing feeling, fine particles of inorganic fine particles are mixed in polyester multifilament sick and thin yarns or polymers, and fine particles are formed on the surface of the fibers by alkali reduction processing. Many proposals have been made using a recess-forming multifilament yarn and the like. However, the former has a drawback that the swelling feeling is insufficient, and the texture does not become soft and becomes hard. In the latter case, it is difficult to uniformly disperse the inorganic fine particles in the polymer, which not only hinders the processability of post-processing such as spinning and twisting, but it is also difficult to control the surface fine recesses by alkali weight reduction processing, which leads to quantitative expansion and quality improvement. There is a lot of problems to ask for.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament composite yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted product having a silky texture using the polyester multifilament yarn, and a method for producing the same, and more specifically An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester multifilament composite yarn that can be processed into a woven or knitted fabric that exhibits a proper swelling feeling, a soft and dry touch, and has a novel texture without fluffiness or bloating, and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

The composite yarn of the present invention has the following constitution. At least satisfy the following numerical values, 16
It is characterized by containing a polyester multifilament yarn A having a negative 0 ° C dry heat shrinkage and a polyester multifilament yarn B having a 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage. −0.10 ≦ SHW (A) / ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 010 10% ≦ ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 70% χ c (A) ≦ 20.0% 0.020 ≦ Δn (A) ≦ 0.080 Here Where ε _0.2 (A) is the structural integrity parameter (%) of the multifilament yarn A, SHW (A) is the boiling water shrinkage rate (%) of the multifilament yarn A, and χc (A) is the crystallinity of the multifilament yarn A. (%) And Δn (A) represent the birefringence index (−) of the multifilament yarn A, respectively.

The method for producing the composite yarn of the present invention has the following constitution. Including at least 85 mol% of ethylene terephthalate units, the intrinsic viscosity [η] is 0.45 to 0.70.
Nozzle draft ratio (VS / VO) of cc / g polyester
) Is 30 to 80, and the take-up speed (VS) is 200.
Crystallinity (χ) melt-spun in the range of 0 to 4000 m / min.
c) 12% or less of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is subjected to dry heat treatment under conditions such that it is not substantially drawn.
A polyester multifilament yarn A having a negative dry heat shrinkage of 60 ° C. is obtained and then aligned with a polyester multifilament yarn B having a positive dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C., or either a twisted or air-entangled mixed fiber It is characterized by compounding by a compounding method. Here, the crystallinity (χ c) is calculated by the following equation (1) by the density gradient tube method, and the nozzle draft ratio (VS / VO) is calculated by the following equation (2).

[Crystallinity (χc)] χc = [dk x (d-da)] / [(d x (dk-da)] x 100 (%) (1) Here, in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, dk, da
Are dk = 1.455 g / cm ³ and da = 1.331, respectively.
g / cm ³ and d is n-pentane (specific gravity 0.683) and tetrachloromethane (specific gravity 1.599) as light and heavy liquids, respectively, to prepare density gradient tubes, and measure under constant temperature conditions of 25 ° C. It is the density (g / cm ³ ) of the prepared fiber.

[Nozzle Draft Ratio (VS / VO)] VS / VO = VS / [Q / (100 × S) × (1 / ρ)] (2) where Q is the nozzle single hole discharge rate (g / min.), S is the nozzle orifice cross-sectional area (cm ² ), ρ is the polymer melt density (g / c
m ³ ), and when the polymer used is polyethylene terephthalate, the polymer melt density can be approximated by the following formula. ρ = 1.356−5 × 10 −4 × T However, T is the polymer melting temperature (° C.), and the molten polymer temperature at the time of discharge can be obtained by substituting the nozzle surface temperature (° C.).

The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention contains at least 85 parts of ethylene terephthalate component.
Including intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.45 to 0.70 cc / g
Of a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning the above polyester, and a multifilament yarn A obtained by dry heat treatment under conditions that do not substantially stretch and a multifilament drawn yarn B different from the multifilament yarn A It is what you get. The multifilament yarn A
In addition to the ethylene terephthalate component, the polyester constituting the above may contain a butylene terephthalate component, an ethylene isophthalate component or a derivative thereof in a range of less than 15 mol%. Further, the intrinsic viscosity [η] is required to be in the range of 0.45 to 0.70 cc / g, and when [η] is less than 0.45 cc / g, the spinnability in melt spinning is deteriorated, The spinning operability is extremely unstable, which is not preferable. Also, [η] is 0.70
If a polymer with a high degree of polymerization exceeding cc / g is used, the melt viscosity of the molten polymer in melt spinning will be large and the pressure loss at the time of discharge will be large, resulting in inability to discharge stably, The spinning operability is deteriorated, which is not a preferable condition.

The multifilament drawn yarn B is not particularly limited, and its main object is polyethylene terephthalate, but as dicarboxylic acid components, in addition to terephthalic acid, malonic acid, maleic acid, succinic acid, sebacic acid. Such as an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, or an aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof. It may be contained as a copolymerization component. The main target of the glycol component is ethylene glycol, but a polyester in which a part of the glycol component is replaced with 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol or the like may be used. In addition, inorganic fine particles such as titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, and kaolinite, or polyester to which a pigment or the like is added may be used if necessary.

The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention includes at least one multifilament yarn A having a negative 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage ratio and at least one multifilament yarn B having a 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage ratio. The multifilament yarn A, which is a composite of the above and has a negative 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage, must satisfy the following formula. −0.10 ≦ SHW (A) / ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 010 10% ≦ ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 70% χ c (A) ≦ 20.0% 0.020 ≦ Δn (A) ≦ 0.080 Here Where ε _0.2 (A) is the structural integrity parameter (%) of the multifilament yarn A, SHW (A) is the boiling water shrinkage ratio (%) of the multifilament yarn A, and Δn (A) is the birefringence index of the multifilament yarn A. (-) The 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage of the multifilament yarn A is preferably -10% to 0%.

The structural integrity parameter ε _0.2 is measured according to the method described in US Pat. No. 3,771,307, column 4, lines 39 to 49, and is _0.2 for a sample (filament) length of 200 mm. Apply a load of 2 g / d, measure the sample length L0 at that time, then immerse the sample in boiling water for 2 minutes under a load of 0.2 g / d, then remove from the boiling water and cool. The length L1 of the sample is measured under a load of 0.2 g / d and is calculated by the following formula (3). It should be noted that the average value of 5 times of measurement is used as the measured value. ε _0.2 = [(L1 −L0) / L1] × 100 (%) (3) The fact that ε _0.2 obtained by the above equation 6 is negative indicates that the sample contracted in boiling water and is positive. What is meant is that the sample showed self-elongation in boiling water.

Further, the boiling water shrinkage rate SHW was set to 1.1 for the sample frame circumference.
Using a 25 m measuring machine, apply an initial load of 0.1 g / d and rewind at a speed of 120 times / m, create a small ridge with 20 windings and apply a weight 40 times the initial load. Measure the length L2. Subsequently, the weight is removed, and it is immersed in boiling water (100 ° C.) for 30 minutes in such a manner that the shrinkage is not hindered. Then, the sample is taken out of the boiling water, wiped off with a blotter paper or cotton cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal state. After air-drying, a weight of 40 times the initial load is applied again and the length L3 at that time is measured, and is calculated by the following formula (4). It should be noted that the average value of 5 times of measurement is used as the measured value. SHW = [(L2-L3) / L2] * 100 (%) (4) The fact that the SHW obtained by the above equation (4) is negative indicates that the sample self-expands in boiling water, and is positive. Means that the sample contracted in boiling water.

Furthermore, 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage SHD is 1 for the sample.
A load of / 30 (g / d) is applied and the length L4 is measured. Next, the load is removed, and the sample is placed in a dryer and dried at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. After drying, cool and repeat 1
The length L5 is measured by applying a load of / 30 (g / d), and is calculated by the following formula (5). It should be noted that the average value of 5 times of measurement is used as the measured value. SHD = [(L4−L5) / L4] × 100 (%) (5) The fact that the SHD obtained by the above formula (5) is negative means that the sample self-expanded under the condition of dry heat of 160 ° C. Is positive, which means that the sample contracted under the dry heat condition of 160 ° C.

SHW (A), which is the ratio (SHW / ε _0.2 ) of the boiling water shrinkage rate SHW and the structural integrity parameter ε _0.2 in the range of ε _0.2 (A) of 10% or more and 70% or less.
When / ε 0.2 (A) is in the range of more than 0, the yarn exhibits heat shrinkage, and the bulging feeling and soft feeling intended by the present invention cannot be imparted. Further, if the range is less than -0.10, the yarn exhibits high self-stretchability, but the yarn itself becomes very thermally unstable and not only the handling property is impaired. However, the fabric has a fluffy feeling and a fluffy feeling and is not preferable in terms of quality. SHW and ε
SHW (A) / ε _0.2 (A), which is a ratio of _0.2 , is −0.10.
By setting the range to 0 or less, the texture of the fabric when it is processed is rich in swelling and softness. Further, if the SHW is in an excessively small range of less than 0%, that is, if the yarn self-extends in boiling water, the multifilament yarn A is used in the twisting set or sizing step of the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention. If many loops are generated, unwinding property from the package is significantly deteriorated, and in addition, there is a possibility that opening defects may occur during weaving. Moreover, even if it is processed into a fabric, the bulge and softness are rather poor, which is not preferable.

Also, the structural integrity parameter ε shown above
Regarding _0.2 , it is necessary to set ε _0.2 (A) within the range of 10% to 70%. When ε _0.2 (A) is 0% or more, it shows self-elongation substantially in boiling water, but if it cannot hold 10% or more, the swelling feeling and softness of the cloth will be poor. is there. Also, if it exceeds 70%, the swelling feeling is sufficient and the texture is very soft, but on the contrary it becomes fluffy and it is not preferable as quality and it is finished in a cheesy texture. It ends up.

Also, the crystallinity χ of the multifilament yarn A
It is desirable that c (A) be within the range of 20.0% or less. If the crystallinity χ c (A) exceeds 20.0%, the crystallization of the yarn will be promoted too much, and the yarn will not exhibit self-expansion even after heat treatment, and the fabric will feel bulged and soft. It is not desirable because it is finished in poor quality. Preferably, the crystallinity χ c is 10.0% or more 2
0.0% or less, more preferably 10.0% or more 2
By setting the content in the range of 0.0% or less, it is possible to impart self-stretchability to the yarn, and the fabric has an appropriate swelling feeling,
It is possible to give a soft feeling.

Further, the birefringence Δ of the multifilament yarn A
It is desirable that n (A) be in the range of 0.020 to 0.080. The birefringence Δn is measured by the following method. A Nikon polarization microscope POH type and a Perets compensator by Lights Co. were used, and a spectral light source starter (Toshiba SLS-3-B type) was used as a light source (Na light source). A sample cut at an angle of 45 ° with respect to a fiber axis having a length of 5 to 6 mm is placed on a glass slide with the cut surface facing up. Place the slide glass on which the sample is placed on the rotating stage, adjust the rotating stage so that the sample is at 45 ° to the polarizer, and insert the analyzer into the dark field, and then use the compensator. Set the number to 30 and count the number of stripes (n
Pieces). The compensator was rotated in the right screw direction to measure the scale a of the compensator at the point where the sample first darkened, and the compensator was rotated to the left screw direction to measure the scale b of the compensator at the point where the sample first became darkest. After that (all read up to 1/10 scale), 30 compensator
Back to, remove the analyzer, measure the diameter d of the sample,
The birefringence Δn is calculated based on the following equation (6). In addition, it is set as the measured value with the average value of the number of times of measurement 5 times. Δn = Γ / d (Γ; Retardation = nλ0 + ε) (6) λ0 = 589.3mμε; C / 100 in the manual for the compensator by Rights Co.
Calculated from 00 and i. i = (ab) (; difference in reading of compensator)

When the Δn (A) is in the range of less than 0.020, the degree of orientation of the molecules constituting the fiber remains small, and after the fabric is processed, it is selectively and strongly hydrolyzed by the alkali weight reduction process. It is difficult to say that it is within the preferred range because it is subjected to a reaction and the degree of embrittlement is remarkable, and the tear strength of the fabric is lowered and the appearance quality is lowered by cutting the single yarn. If the Δn (A) exceeds 0.080, the degree of embrittlement does not become large even in the alkali weight reduction process, and a fabric having practical strength can be finished. The cloth does not substantially exhibit self-expansion, and the cloth lacks in bulge and softness.

The method for producing the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention comprises an ethylene terephthalate component of at least 85 mol% and an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.4.
Crystallization obtained by melting 5 to 0.70 cc / g of polyester resin and melt spinning at a take-up speed Vs of 2000 to 4000 m / min. And a nozzle draft ratio (VS / V0) of 30 to 150. A polyester multifilament unstretched yarn having a degree χ c of 12% or less is dry heat-treated under conditions that are not substantially stretched to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn A having a negative dry heat shrinkage SHD of 160 ° C, and then 160 ° C dry heat The polyester multifilament yarn B having a positive shrinkage rate SHD is aligned or combined by a twisting or air entanglement treatment method.

When the spinning take-up speed is in the range of less than 2000 m / min., The finished yarn is extremely unstable in physical properties, its quality is difficult to change over time, quality control is difficult, and quantitative expansion is easy. I can't do it. The take-up speed is 400
If the range exceeds 0 m / min., The crystallinity χc significantly exceeds 12% due to the effect of promoting oriented crystallization at the time of take-up by spinning, and the crystallinity in the molecular axis direction of the yarn at the time of dyeing and finishing process The degree of self-expansion due to denaturation is practically limited to a small amount, and the fabric becomes poor in swelling and softness, which is not preferable.

Further, it is necessary that the nozzle draft ratio (VS / VO) of the molten polymer at the time of discharging is in the range of 30 to 150. Nozzle draft ratio (VS / VO) is 150
If the range is significantly exceeded, the orientational crystallization of the yarn-constituting molecules will be promoted too much, and the degree of self-extension due to the crystallization of the yarn in the molecular axis direction during dyeing and finishing will be small. As a result, the fabric becomes poor in swelling and softness. Also, the nozzle draft ratio (V
When S / VO) is in the range of less than 30, the molecular orientation of the molecules that make up the yarn becomes extremely slight, and the structure has an unstable physical property. It is not a preferable area from the viewpoint of guarantee.

Further, it is necessary that the melt-spun polyester multifilament undrawn yarn has a crystallinity χ c of 12% or less, more preferably 10% or less. When the crystallinity is in the range of significantly exceeding 12%, the crystallinity is further increased by subjecting the multifilament unstretched yarn to a dry heat treatment under such a condition that the yarn is not substantially stretched. The degree of crystallization becomes small, and self-expansion stays small in the end,
The fabric is poor in swelling and softness.

[0024] The dry heat treatment will be described in detail. The condition that the film is not substantially stretched, that is, the relaxation rate is 0.
The multifilament undrawn yarn is over-supplied to the heating element in the range of -60%, more preferably 10-60%, and is subjected to dry heat treatment. As the heating element to be used, either a contact heating medium or a non-contact heating medium can be used, but dry heat treatment is effective from the viewpoints of process passability, operability and productivity. In this dry heat treatment, it is possible to impart self-stretching ability by effectively removing only the shrinking component while suppressing the molecular orientation of the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn as much as possible and suppressing the crystallization by heating as much as possible. It is essential. The decrease in molecular orientation by the dry heat treatment and the removal of the shrinkage component are in a contradictory relationship, and it is necessary to sufficiently consider the oversupply rate (relaxation rate). When the over-feed rate is less than 0%, that is, when the multifilament undrawn yarn is supplied to the heating medium in the drawn state, the crystallinity is extremely increased, and practically no self-expansion is exhibited. The type of heating element is not particularly limited, but a non-contact heating method such as a tube heater or a slit heater is effective in terms of process passability and maintenance, and is preferably used.

The multifilament yarn B combined with the multifilament yarn A has a dry heat shrinkage SHD of 160 ° C.
Must be positive. The SHD range is not particularly limited, but a range of about 5% to 30% so-called medium shrinkage yarn to high shrinkage yarn is preferably used. The SHD
Is a negative value, the multifilament yarn B itself exhibits self-expansion, and the swelling feeling of the fabric is improved, but it is uncomfortable, and it is not preferable because it is finished as a bulky feeling and a cheesy feeling without texture.

The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention may be combined by using either alignment, twisting or air-entanglement mixed fibers, but it is known in view of process passability and productivity. Air-entangled mixed fibers with a high-pressure air stream at room temperature using the interlace nozzle of No. 1 are particularly desirable. The number of entangled mixed fibers in the air-entangled mixed fiber is about 20 to 100, preferably 2 per 1 m of the yarn.
The number is about 0 to 70, and if the number of entanglements is excessively increased, the yarn becomes too hard, and the swelling and softness of the fabric are suppressed, which is not a preferable range.

The total denier of the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in consideration of general clothing applications, it is generally within the range of 30 denier to 300 denier depending on its purpose, use, texture and the like. It may be selected as appropriate. The single denier and the total denier of the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B are not particularly limited, but the smaller the single yarn denier of the yarn (undrawn yarn) to be the multifilament yarn A, the more relaxed It tends to be heat-treated and is preferably 0.3 denier to 3.0 denier. 0.3
A multifilament undrawn yarn having a denier less than that cannot be stably discharged by the conventional direct spinning method, and the spinnability is significantly deteriorated. If it exceeds 3.0 denier, the relaxation heat treatment becomes difficult, and the yarn does not fully shrink and becomes a loop and protrudes from the yarn, unwinding property in the subsequent process is significantly deteriorated. It is not desirable. In addition, it is preferable to use a yarn having a single yarn denier of about 3 denier to 10 denier, preferably about 5 denier to 10 denier, because the multifilament yarn B improves the stickiness and luster of the fabric and is preferable for use.

When a fabric is formed using the multifilament composite yarn, the composite yarn is twisted when the fabric is processed, and the number of actual twists to be inserted into the composite yarn is expressed by the following formula (7). It is desirable to set it within the range. 3000 / D ^1/2 ≤ Tw ≤ 27000 / D ^1/2 (turns / m) (7) where Tw is the number of actual twists inserted per 1 m of yarn (turns / m
m) and D represents the total denier (Den.) of the polyester multifilament composite yarn. The actual twist number is
It can be appropriately selected within the range of the formula (7) in consideration of the texture of the cloth and the like. For example, if you want to show the softness and bulkiness of the fabric on the surface, set Tw (times / m) to 3000 / D ^1/2
The range is from sweet twist to medium twist of 7,000 / D ^1/2 to Tw (times / m) of 12000 / D ^1/2 to further improve the sharpness and dryness of the fabric. 25,000
It is advisable to adopt the range of strong twist of / D ^1/2 .

When the real twist is inserted into the multifilament composite yarn, a double twister, an up twister, a ring twister, an italian twisting machine, etc. can be used, but from the viewpoint of productivity and process stability, the double twister is used. Suitable for use. In addition, when a real twist is inserted into the multifilament composite yarn, a twist set using a vacuum heat setter, a rideon box, or the like, or sizing with PVA or an acrylic paste material is performed in order to prevent twisting and kinking The property is further improved and it is preferable to use. It is desirable that the temperature condition for the twist setting or sizing is within a range not exceeding 85 ° C.
It is preferably 50 ° C to 85 ° C. When the temperature condition exceeds 85 ° C, the multifilament yarn A forms a large number of loops protruding from the yarn due to the effect of self-extension.
It is difficult to say that it is a suitable condition because it causes unwinding from the package, swelling of the fabric, and lack of softness.

By weaving and knitting using the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention and processing it as a cloth, it exhibits appropriate bulkiness, softness and appropriate swelling feeling, and further, good dry touch. Traditionally, the mainstream of polyester woven and knitted materials that express a dry feel and a crisp taste is sick and thin yarns and fused false twisted yarns that are partially fused. The taste is considered to be due to the effect of the unstretched remaining portion, and the dry feel and the crispness of the fused false twisted yarn are considered to be due to the effect of the fused portion. According to the above findings, the present invention allows the fabric to have a swelling feeling, a soft feeling, and a dry feeling by forming a loop that is self-expanding and protrudes on the surface of the cloth from a heat-treated yarn of an undrawn yarn. The present invention has been reached as a result of reaching the conclusion and making extensive studies.

[0031]

The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. In addition, the intrinsic viscosity [η] was measured by using an equal weight mixture of phenol and tetrachloroethane as a solvent and using an Ubbelohde viscometer to obtain the viscosity number ηSP / c under a constant temperature condition of 20 ° C ± 5 ° C. Was plotted against the solution concentration c, and ηSP / c was extrapolated from c → 0 to obtain the intrinsic viscosity [η] (cc / g).

(Example 1) 0.3% by weight of titanium dioxide
Using polyethylene terephthalate resin having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.63 cc / g, the temperature of the molten polymer in the extruder is 285 ° C, and the surface temperature of the spinning nozzle is 28.
After melt-spinning under the condition of 7 ° C., cooling and solidification, it was wound at a spinning take-up speed of 3200 m / min. The nozzle single hole discharge amount was set so that the nozzle draft ratio (VS / VO) at the time of discharging the molten polymer was 100, and 40 denier 18 filaments of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn were obtained. When the crystallinity χc of the multifilament undrawn yarn was measured, it showed a value of 9.0%. The multifilament undrawn yarn was subjected to a slit heater (non-contact heating method) having an ambient temperature of 200 ° C. with a relaxation rate of 45% and a processing speed of 20.
Dry heat treatment was performed under the conditions of 0 m / min. And heater residence time of 0.18 seconds to obtain a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn of 58 denier 18 filaments. The multifilament undrawn yarn after the dry heat treatment has a structural integrity parameter ε _0.2 of 61.07% and a crystallinity χc.
Is 14.2%, birefringence Δn is 0.0421, boiling water shrinkage SHW and structural integrity parameter ε 0.2 ratio (SHW /
It was confirmed that ε _0.2 ) was −0.033 and the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage SHD was −6.2%, indicating that the yarn substantially exhibits self-stretchability.

The dry-heat treated yarn of the multifilament undrawn yarn is referred to as multifilament yarn A, and polyethylene terephthalate resin having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.64 cc / g is used, and is obtained by carrying out ordinary melt spinning and drawing. 160
Polyester multifilament stretched yarn 1 having a dry heat shrinkage SHD of 19.0% and a boiling water shrinkage SHW of 16.0%
30 filaments of 00 denier was used as the multifilament yarn B, and air entanglement treatment was performed by a high-pressure air flow at room temperature using an FG4 type interlace nozzle manufactured by Fiber Guide Co., Ltd. to obtain a polyester multifilament composite yarn of 158 denier 48 filaments. The number of entangled filaments of the multifilament composite yarn per 67 m was 67, which was excellent in handleability with no yarn cracks or loops.

A double twister (No. 302) manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. is used as the polyester multifilament composite yarn, and the yarn obtained by twisting 1200 times / m in the S twist direction is used as a warp, and the multifilament composite yarn is used as a weft. S twist, Z
Create a yarn in which each twist is 1000 times / m and S
Weaving was performed so that two twists and two Z twists were alternately arranged. A vacuum heat setter was used as a twisting set and was subjected to a treatment for 30 minutes in an atmosphere of high vacuum and 70 ° C., and then subjected to weaving. The weaving density is 142 warps / inch, weft 7
After weaving to a cashmere standard of 8 pieces / inch, a cloth is scoured, preset, and subjected to alkali weight reduction processing while stirring the cloth in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at 95 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, An ordinary final set was carried out to obtain a dyed cloth having a finishing density of 161 warps / inch and 87 wefts / inch.

Observation of the surface of the dyed cloth with an optical microscope at 80 times magnification revealed that the multifilament yarn A self-expanded to form a large number of loops, covering the entire surface of the dyed cloth. I was able to confirm. The texture of the dyed fabric has a completely new texture, which is suitable for ladies' jackets, skirts, dresses, and pants that have a gentle feeling without stuffiness, moderate elasticity, waist feel, bulkiness, and unique dry touch. It was finished as a woven fabric.

Comparative Example 1 The polyester multifilament unstretched yarn 40 denier 18 filaments used in Example 1 was subjected to a slit heater (non-contact heating system) at an ambient temperature of 200 ° C. for a relaxation rate of 0% and a processing speed of 200 m / mi
Dry heat treatment was performed under the respective conditions of n. and heater residence time of 0.18 seconds to obtain a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn of 40 denier 18 filaments. The multifilament undrawn yarn after the dry heat treatment has a structural integrity parameter ε0.2 of -0.53% and a crystallinity χc of 2
6.2%, birefringence Δn 0.0875, boiling water shrinkage S
Ratio of HW and structural integrity parameter ε _0.2 (SHW /
ε _0.2 ) was −4.120, the 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage SHD was 2.4%, and the yarn was substantially heat shrinkable. In the same manner as in Example 1, the dry heat treated yarn of the multifilament undrawn yarn was used as multifilament A.
A polyester multifilament composite yarn having 0 denier 48 filaments was obtained. The number of entangled filaments of the multifilament composite yarn was 62 per 1 m, which was excellent in handleability with no yarn cracks or loops.

Using a double twister (No. 302) manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., the polyester multifilament composite yarn was twisted 1300 times / m in the S twist direction as a warp, and the multifilament composite yarn was obtained as a weft. S twist, Z
Create a yarn that is twisted 1100 times / m for each twist and S
Weaving was performed so that two twists and two Z twists were alternately arranged. A vacuum heat setter was used as a twisting set and was subjected to a treatment for 30 minutes in an atmosphere of high vacuum and 70 ° C., and then subjected to weaving. Weaving density is 146 warp / inch, weft 8
After weaving to a cashmere standard of 0 pieces / inch and making a cloth, it is subjected to scouring and presetting, and is subjected to alkali weight reduction processing while stirring the cloth in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at 95 ° C. with a jet dyeing machine, A usual final set was carried out to obtain a dyed cloth having a finish density of 166 warps / inch and 90 wefts / inch.

When the surface of the dyed cloth was magnified 80 times using an optical microscope and observed, there was no evidence of self-elongation of the multifilament yarn A, and the difference in yarn length between the multifilament yarn A and the multifilament yarn B was extremely small. It is a small amount, and it is exactly the same as the different shrinkage mixed yarn made by the combination of the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn. The texture of the dyed fabric is moderate, and the waist feel is felt, but the swelling, softness and dry feel are clearly inferior to those of Example 1, and it is hard to say that it has a new texture. It was only possible.

[0039]

As described above, by using the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention in a woven or knitted fabric, a soft texture without sticking, an appropriate beam, a feeling of waist,
It is possible to provide a new texture material having bulkiness and a unique dry touch, which is suitable for use in women's clothing.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. At least the following numerical value is satisfied: 16
A polyester multifilament composite yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn A having a negative 0 ° C dry heat shrinkage and a polyester multifilament yarn B having a positive 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage. −0.10 ≦ SHW (A) / ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 010 10% ≦ ε _0.2 (A) ≦ 70% χ c (A) ≦ 20.0% 0.020 ≦ Δn (A) ≦ 0.080 Here Where ε _0.2 (A) is the structural integrity parameter (%) of the multifilament yarn A, SHW (A) is the boiling water shrinkage rate (%) of the multifilament yarn A, and χc (A) is the crystallinity of the multifilament yarn A. (%) And Δn (A) indicate the birefringence of the multifilament yarn A. 2. Intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.45-0.7 containing at least 85 mol% of ethylene terephthalate units.
Nozzle draft ratio (VS / V
O) is 30 to 150 and the take-up speed (VS) is 200.
Crystallinity (χ) melt-spun in the range of 0 to 4000 m / min.
c) 12% or less of polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is subjected to dry heat treatment under conditions such that it is not substantially drawn.
A polyester multifilament composite, characterized in that a polyester multifilament yarn A having a negative dry heat shrinkage of 60 ° C. is obtained and then combined with a polyester multifilament yarn B having a positive dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. Thread manufacturing method. 3. The method for producing a polyester multifilament composite yarn according to claim 2, wherein the compounding method of the polyester multifilament yarn A and the polyester multifilament yarn B is either paralleling, twisting or air-entanglement mixed fiber.