JPH09228176A - Design twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [PROBLEMS] To provide a design twisted yarn having a twisted unevenness structure which gives excellent sensory characteristics such as gloss unevenness and texture when formed into a knitted fabric. SOLUTION: This is a twisted yarn in which one or a plurality of yarns are twisted, and a weak twist portion in a sweet twist state having a twist coefficient K of 1,000 to 6,500 and the same twist direction as the weak twist portion. Twisting coefficient K is 1
2,000 to 30,000 strongly twisted portions in a strongly twisted state are alternately arranged, and the transition region of the weakly twisted portion and the strongly twisted portion has a length in the yarn longitudinal direction of 15 to 100 cm.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a design twisted yarn having a twist uneven structure.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a twist has been imparted to a yarn for the purpose of improving the physical properties of a yarn, improving the handling property, changing the texture, etc., and used for woven or knitted fabrics. However, the use of yarns to which a certain number of uniform twists are applied has a drawback that it has a flat and monotonous appearance, and particularly filament yarns have a smooth and more monotonous texture. As one of the methods for improving this monotonous defect, various methods have been proposed so far for the purpose of imparting a preferable natural mottled feeling. For example, in the case of twisted yarn, in the process of twisting the synthetic fiber yarn, the feed is temporarily stopped by a cam mechanism or electric control, rotation unevenness is imparted, tension fluctuation is applied during the twisting process, or intermittent feeding is performed. It has been proposed to form twist unevenness by, for example, applying twist to a yarn to which water has been supplied under heating.

For example, as a conventional method for obtaining a design twisted yarn, there is a method for temporarily stopping the feed of a yarn running in a constant low twist state to temporarily form a strong twist portion, but in this method, the yarn is stopped. Therefore, it is very difficult to control the number of twists in the strong twist portion, and the yarn is easily broken, and a long strong twist portion cannot be formed. Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-243137, it is proposed to control unevenness by electrical control of 1 / f fluctuation with respect to the rotation speed of a feed roller or a spindle. Although a feeling can be obtained, a twist number unevenness that is large enough to design the glossiness of the low twist portion cannot be obtained.

Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 47-28238, twist variations are imparted during the twisting process of two types of yarns to form twist unevenness due to the difference in elastic recovery rate. Is proposing that. In this case, the change in twist is slight, and a long pitch of several tens cm or more cannot be obtained. Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 59-137530, thermoplastic resin having a certain twist is preliminarily added with water intermittently and then treated with a plate heater to develop twist deviation. However, this method has a drawback that the equipment such as a water applying device and a heating heater is complicated.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the drawbacks of the conventional methods, and when a knitted fabric is formed, it has a twisted unevenness structure which gives the knitted fabric excellent sensory properties such as gloss unevenness and texture. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a design twisted yarn.

[0006]

According to the present invention, a twisted yarn obtained by twisting one or a plurality of yarns has a twist coefficient K of 1.00.
The weakly twisted portion of 0 to 6,500 and the strongly twisted portion of the strongly twisted state having a twist coefficient K of 12,000 to 30,000 in the same twisting direction as the weakly twisted portion are alternately arranged. The design twisted yarn is characterized in that the length in the yarn longitudinal direction of the transition region between the portion and the strong twisted portion is 15 to 100 cm.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The yarn constituting the design twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and polyacrylonitrile-based, polyester-based, polyamide-based synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, rayon, etc. It may be made of any material such as recycled fiber, silk, and natural fiber such as cotton. Further, the yarn form may be filament yarn, bulky processed yarn thereof, spun yarn, etc., and the fineness of the yarn is not particularly limited,
Further, various composite yarns obtained by combining these may be used,
When it is a composite yarn, more preferable design effect can be obtained due to difference in gloss, difference in dyeing, difference in shrinkage, and the like.

The design twisted yarn of the present invention is, as schematically shown in FIG. 1, a weakly twisted portion A having a twist coefficient K of 1,000 to 6,500 in a sweet twist state and the same twisted portion as the weakly twisted portion A. And a twisting coefficient K is 12,000 to 30,000, and a strong twisted portion B in a strongly twisted state is alternately arranged with a transition region C between the weakly twisted portion and the strongly twisted portion sandwiched therebetween. The length of the transition region C between the weak twist portion and the strong twist portion in the yarn longitudinal direction is 15 to 100 cm.

The twist coefficient K in the present invention is obtained by the following calculation method. 5cm marked as one section to the sample yarn, using a test twist device measures the twist number T _1, to obtain a T ₁ that varies in the longitudinal direction is calculated by the following equation. Twist coefficient K = T ₁ × 20 × √D (D: yarn denier)

In the design twisted yarn of the present invention, when the twist coefficient K of the weakly twisted portion is less than 1,000, the contrast with the strongly twisted portion is good, but when the composite yarn is used as the yarn, the bundleability is poor. When the twist coefficient K of the weakly twisted portion exceeds 6,500, the problem of processability may occur, and the contrast with the strongly twisted portion becomes low, so that the design effect cannot be exhibited.

When the twist coefficient K of the strongly twisted portion is less than 12,000, the contrast with the weakly twisted portion is low, so that the design effect is not exerted, and the texture of the woven or knitted material is sharp when the woven or knitted material is formed. If the twist coefficient K of the strong twist portion exceeds 30,000, strong snarl or yarn breakage occurs in the yarn, which makes post-processing difficult or the texture is too hard. Cause problems.

In the design twisted yarn of the present invention, when the length of the transition region between the weak twisted portion and the strong twisted portion is less than 15 cm, snare is likely to enter the yarn and it is difficult to shorten the process itself. Is more than 100 cm, the twist number change period becomes long, and the design effect of the weak twist portion and the strong twist portion is diluted,
When the woven or knitted product has a stepped appearance, and when the transition region is 15 to 100 cm, a particularly natural mottled feeling is obtained when the woven or knitted product is formed.

When a tension is applied, the design twisted yarn of the present invention is excellent in morphological stability, unlike the alternate twisted yarn having each region of Z twist-untwisted-S twist due to untwisted false twist or the like. is there. In the case of untwisted false twist or the like, since the untwisting directions of the adjacent SZ regions are the same, there is a drawback that the twisted yarn is untwisted with a slight tension when a tension is applied, and the shape stability is low. Since the weakly twisted portion and the strong twisted portion of the twisted yarn are twisted by real twisting in the same direction, the twisting movement is small even when a large tension is applied, and the shape stability is excellent.

The design twisted yarn of the present invention uses a weakly twisted portion having a glossy feeling, a twisted feeling, a different color feeling, etc. due to a sweet twist as a design, and has a preferable texture as a woven or knitted fabric in the balance of the texture with the strong twisted portion. In particular, the setting of the length of the weakly twisted portion is a very important point in order to enhance the design effect as a woven or knitted fabric having a Kasuri pattern, a Heather pattern, or a long slab pattern.

In particular, when the design twisted yarn of the present invention is a design twisted yarn in which the weak twist portion in the sweet twist state and the strong twist portion in the strong twist state are alternately and irregularly changed with a length variation width of 50 to 200 cm, respectively. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a design effect of Kasuri or heather. When the fluctuation range is less than 50 cm, the effect of feeling different gloss is small, and it is difficult to switch to a short pitch in the process. When the fluctuation range exceeds 200 cm, the woven or knitted product has a stepped appearance. In this case, the length ratio of the weakly twisted portion and the strongly twisted portion is preferably in the range of 2 to 5: 8 to 5, and it is also necessary to set the length variation width in order to prevent a pantograph-shaped form defect.

The texture of the woven or knitted product can be roughly estimated by setting the number of twists in the weak twisted portion and the strong twisted portion and setting the length variation width. That is, the appropriate twist number setting value used in the conventional twisting method with a constant twist number is the product of the twist number setting value of the weak twist portion and the weak twist portion length setting ratio, and the twist number of the strong twist portion. It may be set so as to be approximately equal to the sum of the products of the set value and the set ratio of the strongly twisted portion.

Further, in the design twisted yarn of the present invention, the length of the weakly twisted portion in the sweet twisted state is preferably 50 cm to 10 m, and the length of the strongly twisted portion in the strongly twisted state is preferably 10 to 100 m. The design twisted yarn of the present invention, which has alternating and irregularly twisted portions and strong twisted portions, that is, which has weakly twisted portions at a low frequency, gives a preferable design effect as a long slab-like woven or knitted fabric. In the case of a woven fabric, the length of the weakly twisted portion is preferably about 50 cm to 1 m for use as a long slab. In the case of a knitted fabric, the length of the weakly twisted portion is preferably about 1 to 10 m. As for the setting of the length of the weakly twisted portion, assuming that the braiding rate is three times, the portion where unevenness is obtained is approximately 30 cm to 3 m, and an appearance having a preferable design effect can be obtained. When setting the lengths of these weakly twisted portions, it is preferable to set the lengths irregularly in order to prevent pantographs and the like.

Next, the method for producing the twisted design yarn of the present invention will be described. To form the weak twisted portion in the sweet twist state and the strong twisted portion in the strong twist state, a method of greatly varying the number of twisted yarns is used, but as such a method, under constant spindle rotation conditions,
For example, in the case of an Italian twisting machine, a double covering machine, a double twister, etc., it is desirable to change the winding speed, and in the case of a ring twister type, it is preferable to change the yarn feeding roller speed. To change the rotation speed, the rotation speed and time are controlled by electrical control by a speed command signal oscillator to the motor, and the twist number and the length fluctuation range are determined. The switching of the motor rotation speed is determined in consideration of the motor load, but the switching time is preferably 0.5 seconds or less.

Since the fixing of the twist number is completed in a state of being wound on the winder, the yarn length between the spindle portion or the feed roller portion and the winder portion contributes most to the transition region length. Therefore, it is desirable to take a device layout in which the yarn length is shortened.

2 and 3 show an example of the design twisting yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention. FIG. 2 shows an apparatus using an Italian twisting machine,
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of an apparatus using a ring twister.

[0021]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

(Example 1) 50 denier as the yarn to be supplied /
Regular polyester yarn with 36 filaments and 12
Triacetate yarns of 0 denier / 33 filaments are aligned and wound on a bobbin, and the spindle rotation speed is 800 using a double covering machine manufactured by Kataoka Kikai Kogyo KK
A design twisted yarn was obtained in which the weak twisted portions and the strong twisted portions were irregularly arranged with length fluctuation widths of 50 to 200 cm, respectively, due to fluctuations of 0 rpm and the winding speed. The change in the winding speed was completed under 0.2 seconds, and the yarn length between the spindle part and the winder part was 50 cm. A schematic diagram of the yarn form of the obtained design twisted yarn is shown in FIG. Twist factor K of the obtained design twisted yarn
As shown in FIG. 4, it varied in the range of 2,600 to 27,400 (twist number 200 to 2100 T / M), and the transition region length was about 20 cm.

This design twisted yarn is additionally twisted to have a warp density of 74 yarns /
Weaving was performed by weaving a plain weave with an alternating arrangement of inch and weft density of 50 pieces / two pieces of warp and weft, and dyeing the woven fabric with a disperse dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour to evaluate mottle. This woven fabric was a woven fabric with a high Kasuri tone design effect, in which the glossiness and the discoloration of the low-twisted portion and the sharpness of the high-twisted portion were mixed, and which had a desirable sharpness.

(Example 2) Using the same supply yarn as in Example 1, a weakly twisted portion having a twist coefficient K of 2600 (twist number 200 T / M)
With a length of 1 to 6 m and a twist coefficient K of 17,000 (twist number 130
(0 T / M) strong twisted portion was 20 to 100 m long, and weak twisted portion was formed at low frequency to obtain a design twisted yarn. The transition region length was about 60 cm. This design twisted yarn is re-twisted, and a single-knitting machine is used to fabricate the texture, gauge 28G, and the number of yarns supplied is 1
8 pieces were knitted in an alternating arrangement, and discolored dye was evaluated by dyeing with a disperse dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour. This knit is 30c
It was a knitted fabric with a long slab-like design effect and texture which is preferable from m to 2 m.

(Comparative Example) The weakly twisted portion and the strongly twisted portion are alternately 250
A designed twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the length variation range was irregularly changed in a range of up to 300 cm and the winding speed was changed in 3 seconds. The twist coefficient K of the obtained design twisted yarn is in the range of 2600 to 27400 (twist number 2
00-2100T / M) and the transition region length is about 1
Although it was about 20 cm, when a woven fabric was prepared and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1, it had a laterally strong appearance,
A desirable design property was not obtained.

[0026]

Industrial Applicability The design twisted yarn of the present invention is a twisted yarn in which a glossy portion by sweet twist is formed at an arbitrary position or irregularly in a design manner and the number of twists suitable for maintaining a desired texture is maintained. Unlike conventional false twist slab yarn, long and long slab-like woven and knitted fabric can be obtained.Because it is not a slab by multiple winding, there is no scraping by reeds or catching by guides or knitting needles, etc. It has excellent properties such as good properties.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of an example of a design twisted yarn of the present invention, where A is a weak twist portion, B is a strong twist portion, and C is a transition region portion.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of an example of an apparatus for producing a designed twisted yarn of the present invention, which uses an Italian twisting machine.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of an apparatus using a ring twister, which is an example of an apparatus for producing a designed twisted yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a graph showing variations in twist coefficient K of a design twisted yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Twisted bobbin 2 Supply yarn 3 Spindle 4 Guide 5 Winding roller 6 Winding bobbin 7 Feed roller 8 Ring 9 Cheese 10 Pane 11 Motor 12 Motor rotation speed controller

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A twisted yarn prepared by twisting one or a plurality of yarns, wherein a weak twist portion having a twist coefficient K of 1,000 to 6,500 and a weak twist portion in the same twist direction as the weak twist portion. Coefficient K is 1
A design characterized by alternately having 2,000 to 30,000 strongly twisted portions in a strongly twisted state, and a length in a yarn longitudinal direction of a transition region of a weakly twisted portion and a strongly twisted portion is 15 to 100 cm. Twisted yarn. 2. The weakly twisted portion and the strongly twisted portion are 50 to 20 respectively.
2. The length variation width of 0 cm is alternate and irregular.
Designed twisted yarn described. 3. The length of the weakly twisted portion in the yarn longitudinal direction is 50 cm to
The design twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the length in the yarn longitudinal direction of the strong twist portion is 10 to 100 m.