JPH09228177A - Design twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [PROBLEMS] To provide a design twisted yarn having a twisted unevenness structure which imparts a sensory characteristic such as a glossy feeling, a discolored feeling, a twisting feeling, a swelling feeling, and a crisp feeling when it is formed into a knitted fabric. SOLUTION: In a twisted yarn obtained by twisting a plurality of yarns,
There are 3 to 10 twisted portions with an amplitude R of the Eve Nestester in the range of 10 to 30% per 10 m of yarn length.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a design twisted yarn having a twist uneven structure.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, twists have been imparted to yarns for the purpose of improving physical properties of yarns, improving handling properties, changing texture, etc., and used for knitted fabrics. However, the use of yarns to which a certain number of uniform twists are applied has a drawback that it has a flat and monotonous appearance, and particularly filament yarns have a smooth and more monotonous texture. As one of the methods for improving this monotonous defect, various methods have been proposed so far for the purpose of imparting a preferable natural mottled feeling. For example, in the case of twisted yarn, in the process of twisting the synthetic fiber yarn, the feed is temporarily stopped by a cam mechanism or electric control, rotation unevenness is imparted, tension fluctuation is applied during the twisting process, or intermittent feeding is performed. It has been proposed to form twist unevenness by, for example, applying twist to a yarn to which water has been supplied under heating.

For example, as a conventional method for obtaining a design twisted yarn, there is a method for temporarily stopping the feed of a yarn running in a constant low twist state to temporarily form a strong twist portion, but in this method, the yarn is stopped. Therefore, it is very difficult to control the number of twists in the strong twist portion, and the yarn is easily broken, and a long strong twist portion cannot be formed. Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-243137, it is proposed to control unevenness by electrical control of 1 / f fluctuation with respect to the rotation speed of a feed roller or a spindle. Although a feeling can be obtained, a twist number unevenness that is large enough to design the glossiness of the low twist portion cannot be obtained.

Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 47-28238, twist variations are imparted during the twisting process of two types of yarns to form twist unevenness due to the difference in elastic recovery rate. Is proposing that. In this case, the change in twist is slight, and a long pitch of several tens cm or more cannot be obtained. Further, in the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 59-137530, thermoplastic resin having a certain twist is preliminarily added with water intermittently and then treated with a plate heater to develop twist deviation. However, this method has a drawback that the equipment such as a water applying device and a heating heater is complicated.

Further, in the method of obtaining a slab yarn by compound false twist in Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-28018 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-49454, since the slab has a multi-winding structure, a problem is likely to occur in the subsequent step. In addition, since there are 50 to 150 slabs with varying twists per 10 m of yarn length, the slab has a very strongly uneven feeling.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the drawbacks of the conventional methods, and when a knitted woven fabric is formed, the knitted woven fabric has gloss, discoloration, twisting, swelling, and sharpness. It is an object of the present invention to provide a design twisted yarn having a twisted uneven structure that imparts a sensory characteristic of texture.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a twisted yarn in which a plurality of yarns are twisted, and a twisted yarn in which a plurality of yarns are twisted, in which the amplitude R of the Eevenes tester is in the range of 10 to 30%. A design twisted yarn is characterized by having 3 to 10 portions per 10 m of yarn length.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The yarn constituting the design twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and polyacrylonitrile-based, polyester-based, polyamide-based synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, rayon, etc. It may be made of any material such as recycled fiber, silk, and natural fiber such as cotton. Further, the yarn form may be filament yarn, bulky processed yarn thereof, spun yarn, etc., and the fineness of the yarn is not particularly limited,
Further, various composite yarns obtained by combining these may be used,
When the yarn is a composite yarn, more preferable design effect can be obtained due to difference in gloss, difference in dyeing, difference in shrinkage, and the like.

The design twisted yarn of the present invention, as shown in FIG.
It has 3 to 10 twisted portions with an amplitude R of the Eve Nestester in the range of 10 to 30% per 10 m of the yarn length. The amplitude R and the number of the Eve Nestester in the present invention are determined by using the sample yarns as Zellweger Worster (ZELLWE).
It is obtained by measuring the amplitude and frequency of the obtained chart by using Wooster Tester 1 manufactured by GER USTER) under the condition of a measuring speed of 8 m / min. The Eevenes tester has been conventionally used as a scale for measuring the homogeneity of spun yarn and filament yarn, and its amplitude R
Represents the variation from the average value in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, which is proportional to the cross-sectional area of the yarn, that is, the unit yarn weight.

The design twisted yarn of the present invention has a twisted portion in which the amplitude R of the Eevenes tester is in the range of 10 to 30%. In the twisted portion having this amplitude, the strength of the twist from the strong twist portion to the weak twist portion is large. Presents a clear twisted spot structure,
The strongly twisted portion gives a sharpness effect and a yarn slippage prevention effect, and the weakly twisted portion gives a glossy feeling, a feeling of twisting, a swelling feeling, and a different color feeling. If the amplitude R is less than 10%, the twist unevenness is small and only a low unevenness is given when the knitted fabric is produced. If the amplitude R exceeds 30%, the twist unevenness is too much, which is preferable when the knitted fabric is obtained. Although it gives a feeling, snare is likely to be generated between the strongly twisted portion and the weakly twisted portion, which makes post-processing difficult.

It is necessary to have 3 to 10 twisted portions having an amplitude in the range of 10 to 30% per 10 m of yarn length. If the twisted portion is less than 3, twist irregularities are generated for a long period, and a knitted fabric is obtained. In addition, the appearance becomes a stepped form, and when the number exceeds 10, visually, the unevenness becomes too strong. Further, it is preferable that the twisted portion having an amplitude is irregular in the longitudinal direction of the yarn in order to prevent the defect that the knitted fabric is pantographed.

The design twisted yarn of the present invention is excellent in morphological stability when tension is applied, unlike an alternate twisted yarn having each region of Z twist-untwisted-S twisted by untwisted false twist or the like. is there. In the case of the untwisted false twisted yarn and the like, since the untwisting directions of the adjacent SZ regions are the same, the untwisted yarn is untwisted with a slight tension when tension is applied, and has a drawback of low morphological stability. Since the designed twisted yarn of (1) is twisted by actual twisting in the same direction, the twisting movement is small even when a large tension is applied, and the shape stability is excellent. Also, unlike conventional slab yarns, there is no scraping due to reeds and no catching due to guides, knitting needles, etc. and good post-processability.

The designed twisted yarn of the present invention positively utilizes twist unevenness, and uses a weakly twisted portion having a glossy feeling, a feeling of twisting, a different color feeling, etc. as a design, and a strong twisted portion having a sharp feeling. It gives a favorable texture as a knitted fabric in the balance with, and particularly when an acetate yarn and a polyester bulky textured yarn or a high shrinkage polyester yarn are combined, a glossy feeling, a discoloration feeling, a polyester bulky texture due to the acetate yarn The effect of swelling due to the yarn and the effect of preventing the yarn displacement of the floating yarn due to the high shrinkage polyester yarn are effectively exhibited.

The texture of the knitted fabric made of the design twisted yarn of the present invention can be roughly estimated by setting the number of twists in the weak twisted portion and the strong twisted portion and their partial length ratios. That is, the product of the twist number setting value of the weak twist portion and the weak twist portion length ratio and the twist number setting of the strong twist portion are added to the appropriate twist number setting value used in the conventional twisting method with a constant twist number. It may be set so that the sum of the product of the value and the length ratio of the strongly twisted portion is approximately equal.

Next, the method for producing the design twisted yarn of the present invention will be described. Amplitude R in Eve Nestester is 10-30
In order to form the twisted portion in the range of%, a method of greatly varying the number of twisted yarns is used. As such a method, for example, in the case of an Italian twisting machine, a double covering machine, a double twister, etc. It is desirable to change the winding speed and, in the case of the ring twister type, to change the yarn feeding roller speed. To change the rotation speed, the rotation speed and time are controlled by electrical control by a speed command signal oscillator to the motor, and the twist number and the fluctuation range of the twist are determined. The switching of the motor rotation speed is determined in consideration of the motor load, but the switching time is preferably 0.5 seconds or less.

2 and 3 show an example of a design twisting yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention. FIG. 2 shows an apparatus using an Italian twisting machine,
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of an apparatus using a ring twister.

[0017]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

(Example 1) 50 denier / as a supply yarn
36 filament polyester regular yarn and 120
Denier / 55 filament triacetate yarns are aligned and wound on a bobbin, and the spindle speed is 7500r using a double-covering machine manufactured by Kataoka Machine Industry Co., Ltd.
Due to fluctuations in pm and winding speed, the weakly twisted portion was set to 200 T / M and the strong twisted portion was set to 2000 T / M. When the amplitude R of the obtained twisted yarn was measured with an Eevenes tester, the amplitude R fluctuated as shown in FIG.
The twisted portion within the range of 25% is 3 to 8 per 10 m of the yarn length.
I had one. Further, a schematic view of the yarn form of the obtained twisted yarn is shown in FIG.

This twisted yarn is additionally twisted and woven with a flat design in which two warp and weft of warp density 74 / inch and weft density 50 / inch are alternately arranged,
The woven fabric was dyed with a disperse dye at 120 ° C. for 1 hour, and mottled feeling was evaluated. This woven fabric was a woven fabric with a high Kasuri tone design effect, in which the glossy feeling of the weakly twisted portion of the twisted yarn, the discolored feeling and the sharpness of the strong twisted portion were mixed, and a desirable sharpness was obtained.

(Example 2) A twisted yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the supplied yarn was changed to a polyester bulky yarn of 50 denier / 24 filament and a triacetate yarn of 120 denier / 55 filament. Obtained. When the amplitude R of the obtained twisted yarn was measured with an Eevenes tester, 3 to 8 twisted portions having an amplitude R in the range of 15 to 30% were found every 10 m of the yarn length. The obtained twisted yarn was in a slightly twisted state in the weakly twisted portion, so that bulging due to the bulky processed yarn appeared, and the glossiness and discoloration of the acetate filament were emphasized. Also,
A schematic view of the yarn form of the obtained twisted yarn is shown in FIG. The unevenness of the woven fabric was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1 using this twisted yarn. The woven fabric was a mixture of the glossy feel, the discolored feel, the bulge and the sharp feel of the strong twisted part, It was a woven fabric having a desirable sharpness and a high Kasuri tone design effect.

(Example 3) The same as Example 1 except that the supply yarn was replaced with 75 denier / 36 filament high stress and high shrinkage polyester bulky yarn and 100 denier / 64 filament triacetate yarn. To obtain a twisted yarn. When the amplitude R of the obtained twisted yarn was measured by an Eevenes tester, there were 3 to 8 twisted portions with an amplitude R in the range of 11 to 23% per 10 m of the yarn length.
The obtained twisted yarn was in a slightly twisted state in the weakly twisted portion, and therefore, the glossiness of the acetate filament and the discoloration of the polyester filament were emphasized. Further, a schematic diagram of the yarn form of the obtained twisted yarn after dry heat treatment at 200 ° C. is shown in FIG. The unevenness of the woven fabric was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1 using this twisted yarn. However, this dyeing caused the polyester filament to shrink in the weakly twisted portion of the twisted yarn, forming a loop of acetate filament, It was a woven fabric with a Kasuri-tone design effect that had a touch of gloss, a glossy feeling, and a different color feeling and had a desirable sharpness.

(Comparative Example) In Example 1, the weakly twisted portion was 9
A twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twisting was performed at 00 T / M and the strong twist portion was 1500 T / M. When the amplitude R of the obtained twisted yarn was measured with an Eevenes tester, the amplitude R fluctuated in the range of 3 to 8%, but the unevenness of the fabric was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1 using this twisted yarn. As a result, the obtained woven fabric had a poor feeling of spots.

[0023]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The design twisted yarn of the present invention has a portion of the uneven twist structure from the weak twist portion to the strong twist portion, which is designed to be formed at any desired location or irregularly, and the weak twist portion has a glossy feeling, a swelling feeling, etc. Is a twisted yarn that expresses a sharpness in the strong twist portion, unlike the conventional false twist slab yarn, it is possible to obtain a kasushi-like knitted fabric with a long long slab, and there is no slab due to multiple winding. It has excellent properties such as good post-processing stability because it is not scratched by reeds or caught by guides or knitting needles.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a chart of an amplitude R in an evenness tester as an example of a design twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of an example of an apparatus for producing a designed twisted yarn of the present invention, which uses an Italian twisting machine.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of an apparatus using a ring twister, which is an example of an apparatus for producing a designed twisted yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of an example of the design twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of another example of the design twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of another example of the design twisted yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Twisted bobbin 2 Supply yarn 3 Spindle 4 Guide 5 Winding roller 6 Winding bobbin 7 Feed roller 8 Ring 9 Cheese 10 Pane 11 Motor 12 Motor rotation speed controller

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A twisted yarn obtained by twisting a plurality of yarns,
A design twisted yarn having 3 to 10 twisted portions with an amplitude R of the Eve Nestester in the range of 10 to 30% per 10 m of yarn length. 2. The design twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the twisted yarn is composed of an acetate yarn and a polyester bulk-finished yarn or a high shrinkage polyester yarn.