JPH0941265A - Special fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] A fluffy fabric with a soft feel on the surface, a firm texture as well as a firm texture, and a beautiful gloss and depth of color. [Structure] Polyester filaments in at least one surface layer of a fabric containing polyester filaments are tapered everywhere to form surface fluff. At least one surface of a fabric containing polyester filaments has a viscosity of 20.
It can be produced by applying a treatment liquid containing 0 to 1500 poise of a component capable of decomposing or dissolving polyester long fibers and reducing the cross-sectional area of the polyester long fibers at the portion in contact with the treatment liquid to cut.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a special cloth whose surface is covered with fluff having a special shape, has a supple and excellent texture, is dyed in a deep color, and has a firmness as a whole, And, the surface is supple and has an excellent texture,
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a novel special cloth that is dyed in a deep color and has a general elasticity and is substantially fluff-free, and a method for producing these special cloths.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A fluffed cloth is generally produced by treating the cloth with a needle cloth or sandpaper, and in some cases using a chemical treatment together. For example, JP-A-51-849
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 72 discloses a woven fabric of thermoplastic synthetic fibers consisting of a stranded yarn and a false twisted yarn in the opposite direction to the woven yarn, which is subjected to alkali treatment and then napped on its surface with a needle cloth or the like. ing. The thermoplastic synthetic fibers include all known ones such as polyamide, polyester and polyolefin.

Further, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 56-68616, a surface raising process is carried out by pressurizing and smoothing the surface of a polyester fabric, treating it with a solvent or a hydrolyzing agent, and then raising it by means such as a needle cloth or sandpaper. Is listed. It is said that the binding force of the fabric fibers is reduced, the raising means easily catches on the fibers, and the raised raising is high. Further, it is described that a solvent or a hydrolyzing agent is used as a viscous treatment agent having a viscosity of 10 to 150 poise to prevent the danger of splashing and environmental pollution.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-154458 discloses that a treatment liquid containing a hydrolyzing agent is sprayed and adhered mainly to the surface of a polyester-based fabric, and the amount of the adhered portion is reduced. It describes a method for processing a polyester fabric that is fluffed. In this case, the weight loss rate is 5
-20% is preferred.

[0005]

In the conventional fluffed fabric represented by the above, the structure of the surface layer portion and the inner layer portion is almost the same, so that the touch of the fluffed surface layer portion is intended to be softened. For example, there is a disadvantage that the stiffness and tension of the fabric disappear, and if the stiffness and tension of the fabric are to be maintained, the feel of the surface layer portion becomes hard. In addition, JP-A-5
Even in the processing method described in JP-A No. 7-154458, it was difficult to sufficiently prevent the structural change in the inside of the treatment liquid from permeating into many fabrics. In particular, in the case of a thin cloth, there is a problem that the cloth is broken, and there is a problem that the erosion caused by the sprayed treatment liquid becomes point-like. The present inventor has found that the number of fluffs and the length of the fluffs are more uniform than the conventional fluffed fabric, the surface is soft, and the fabric itself has a feeling of waist and tension and has a deep dark color. As a result of research aimed at providing a fabric that can be expressed, the present invention has been completed.

[0006]

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention aims to achieve the above object by cutting the polyester filaments in at least one surface layer of the fabric containing the polyester filaments in a tapered shape everywhere. Provided is a special cloth characterized by being formed into surface fluff. FIG. 1 is an enlarged photograph of a fluff portion of a special cloth according to the present invention by a scanning electron microscope. Further, at least one surface layer (hereinafter referred to as a treated layer) of a fabric containing polyester filaments.
As a result of the chemical treatment of the polyester, the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the treated layer does not exceed 80% of the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the non-treated layer (the portion other than the treated layer) of the fabric. To provide a special cloth. In the above-mentioned special cloth, the fineness of the polyester filaments in the untreated layer of the cloth is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10 denier. Furthermore, it is desirable that the fabric itself containing the polyester filaments is a fabric containing the polyester filaments and subjected to the usual alkali treatment.

The special cloth has a viscosity of 200 to 1 on at least one surface of the cloth containing polyester filaments.
By applying a treatment liquid containing 500 poise of a component capable of decomposing or dissolving polyester long fibers, to reduce the cross-sectional area of the polyester long fibers in the portion in contact with the treatment liquid, or further reduce the cross-sectional area. It can be manufactured by cutting polyester filaments and fluffing them. If the fabric containing the polyester filaments, which is the raw fabric, contains the polyester filaments and is subjected to the usual alkali treatment, it is easy to finish the desired texture as a whole.

In the present invention, the treated layer is a layer located on the surface portion where the treating liquid is brought into contact with the polyester filaments in order to obtain a desired texture and feel, and its thickness depends on the desired quality. , It is often decided empirically.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION A cloth containing polyester filaments (filaments) is used as an original fabric for the special cloth of the present invention. Polyester filaments are polyester and /
Alternatively, it refers to a long fiber containing a polyester copolymer. As these long fibers, a multifilament, a monofilament, a modified cross-section yarn, a composite yarn, a mixed filament yarn with a heterogeneous filament, etc. can be selected according to the purpose of use. The fineness of the polyester long fiber is preferably 0.1 to 10 denier,
Very fine 0.5-5 denier is particularly suitable. Polyester filaments may be used in combination with other fibers, synthetic fibers,
Long fibers and short fibers such as natural fibers and semi-synthetic fibers can be used. The ratio of polyester filaments in the fabric is
Although it depends on the form and thickness of the fabric, it is generally necessary that the content of the treatment layer is at least 20% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, in order to bring out the effect of the present invention sufficiently. is there. The form and thickness of the fabric are not particularly limited, and woven fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric and the like can be used. It is often used for plain woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, but it is also possible to use multilayered fabrics having a more complicated structure and thickness.

In the present invention, the chemical treatment is 200 to 1
It is a treatment in which a polyester long fiber in the raw fabric surface layer is hydrolyzed or dissolved by a high-viscosity treatment liquid of 500 poise to reduce the fiber cross-sectional area or further cut. Specific examples of the treatment liquid include sodium hydroxide,
Examples thereof include aqueous solutions containing potassium hydroxide, chlorophenol and the like. Generally, the treatment liquid is used as a 5 to 30% by weight aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. Preferably 10
-20% by weight. In addition, a weight loss promoter may be used if necessary.

In the present invention, an ordinary polyester cloth may be subjected to an alkali treatment before the above-mentioned chemical treatment. The usual alkali treatment in advance has an advantage in terms of texture. The ordinary alkali treatment means a treatment with a known low-viscosity alkaline liquid bath which is carried out on a polyester fiber or a polyester cloth, and as a result, the polyester fiber or the polyester cloth to be treated is uniformly distributed as a whole. Is being processed. Therefore, the treatment is different from the selective treatment of the cloth surface portion with the high-viscosity treatment liquid of the present invention. For normal alkali treatment, for example,
Dyeing industry: Vol. 29 No. Details are described on pages 1210-16.

In order to selectively treat the polyester filaments present in the surface layer of the fabric, the treatment liquid is 200 to 1
A viscosity of 500 poise is required. Due to its high viscosity,
The penetration depth of the treatment liquid into the fabric can be easily adjusted,
The polyester filaments of the non-penetrated layer are essentially unaffected. When the viscosity does not reach 200 poise, the treatment liquid quickly penetrates into the fabric and indiscriminately processes the polyester filaments in the inner layer, so that the fabric does not have stiffness or tension, and the fluffy legs become long. Inappropriate. The upper limit of the viscosity is defined as a range practically applicable to the cloth. The viscosity referred to in the present invention has a temperature of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 6
It is a value measured using a B-type viscometer (manufactured by Tokyo Keiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) under 0% condition. In order to adjust the viscosity, as a conventional means, a sizing agent such as starch, sodium alginate, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol, etc. is added to the dissolution treatment solution and used. In the present invention,
Starch is preferred for removing the paste after treatment. The viscosity of the treatment liquid is comprehensively determined together with the treatment temperature, the thickness of the treatment layer, the composition of the treatment liquid, and the like.

Examples of the method of applying the treatment liquid include a method using a coater such as a knife coater, a gravure coater and a reverse roll coater, and a printing method using a flat screen, a rotary screen and the like. Since the treatment liquid has a high viscosity, it is difficult to use a spray method or the like. After application, heat treatment is usually performed and dry heat is applied to 100
To 170 ° C, preferably 110 to 130 ° C in a dry heat atmosphere for 30 to 200 seconds, 98 to 150 ° C,
Preferably 3 in a saturated steam atmosphere at 100 to 130 ° C
A method of heating for 0 to 200 seconds is used.

The cloth thus heat-treated is subjected to normal hot water washing, vinegar washing, water washing and drying. After the drying, if necessary, a raising process such as an emery raising process may be additionally and lightly performed so that more fluff is generated and the texture can be adjusted.

In the present invention, a cloth containing polyester filaments is chemically treated with a high-viscosity treatment liquid,
It is also possible that the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the treated layer does not exceed 80% of the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the untreated layer of the fabric. Such a cloth can be used for general clothing. In addition, the cross-sectional area of polyester long fibers is obtained by preparing a cross-section measurement sample of the target fabric by the paraffin embedding method, enlarging the cross-section on the photograph, and selecting the polyester long-fibers in a certain range of the treated and untreated layers Is a value obtained by obtaining the cross-sectional area of each of the 50 and averaging them.

All of the special fabrics of the present invention are preferable in that the cover factor does not change in the non-treated layer and the surface is softened by adjusting the treated layer in the smaller direction. Similarly, in terms of the basis weight, the surface feeling of the cloth and the firmness and tension can be controlled by adjusting the weight so that it does not change in the non-treated layer and becomes smaller in the treated layer.

[0017]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. Example 1 As a raw fabric, a warp yarn is a polyester filament alignment yarn composed of a high shrinkage yarn of 30 denier × 6 filaments and a low shrinkage yarn of 30 denier × 72 filaments, and a weft yarn is a polyester filament yarn of 150 denier × 96 filaments. The plain weave used was used. On the other hand, a highly viscous treatment liquid having the following composition was prepared.

Sodium hydroxide 10% Nikka gum 3A (Glue: Solid content 100%: Nika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) 6% DYK-1125 (Weight reduction accelerator: Heisha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 2% Water 82 % Viscosity 250 Poise Using a reverse roll coater, the prepared treatment liquid was uniformly adhered to one side of the original fabric to a thickness of 0.2 mm. further,
This fabric was subjected to dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes in a hot air treatment device, and then subjected to normal hot water washing, water washing and drying to produce a special fabric of the present invention.

The obtained special cloth had fluffy fluffy short fluffs on the surface at a high density, had a soft touch, and had a high-class feel. However, the waist, feeling of tension, and strength were hardly reduced as compared with the raw material. When the fluff tip was observed with a scanning electron microscope, it was formed in a tapered shape.

Example 2 As a raw fabric, 75 denier × 7 was used for warp and weft.
A plain woven fabric was used in which a decine crepe was woven using polyester entangled yarn of 2 filaments and 50 denier × 72 filaments (twisted number: 2000 times / m), and this was creped. On the other hand, a highly viscous treatment liquid having the following composition was prepared.

Sodium hydroxide 20% Nikka gum (paste) 6% DYK-1125 (weight loss promoter) 2% water 72% Viscosity 450 Poise Reverse treatment using a roll coater was applied to one side of the original fabric. It was applied uniformly to a thickness of 15 mm. Further, this fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment in a hot air treatment device at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes, followed by normal hot water washing, water washing and drying,
A special fabric of the present invention was produced.

The obtained special fabric has a high density of short fluffs of a certain length in a napped state on the surface, has a soft touch, and has a sharpness, drape and a soft texture peculiar to a tough fabric. It was However, the waist, feeling of tension, and strength were hardly reduced as compared with the raw material. When the fluff tip was observed with a scanning electron microscope, it was formed in a tapered shape.

Example 3 As a raw fabric, a warp yarn is a polyester filament intertwisted yarn of 30 denier × 6 filaments and 60 denier × 144 filaments (twist number 300 times / m), and 5 in the weft yarn.
A plain weave using 0 denier x 24 filament polyester filament yarn was used. On the other hand, a highly viscous treatment liquid having the following composition was prepared.

Sodium hydroxide 20% Nikka gum 3A (Glue: Solid content 100%: Nika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) 6% DYK-1125 (Weight reduction accelerator: Heisha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 2% Water 72 % Viscosity 450 Poise Using a reverse roll coater, the prepared treatment liquid was uniformly adhered to one side of the original fabric in a thickness of 0.3 mm. further,
This fabric was subjected to dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes in a hot air treatment device, and then subjected to normal hot water washing, water washing and drying to produce a special fabric of the present invention.

The obtained special cloth had fluffy fluffy short fluff on the surface at a high density, had a soft touch, and had a high-class feel. However, the waist, feeling of tension, and strength were hardly reduced as compared with the raw material. When the fluff tip was observed with a scanning electron microscope, it was formed in a tapered shape.

Example 4 As a raw fabric, 50 denier x 24 filaments, a high shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of about 20%, and 50 denier x 48 filaments, a triangular cross section, a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of about 7% were used. The polyester filaments are aligned and subjected to fluid mixing treatment, and then twisted at about 200 times / m to obtain polyester shrinkage difference mixed filament yarns. Warp yarn density is about 80 yarns / inch, weft yarn density is about 100. / Inch, plain weave with 2/2 twill, relaxed, set, and alkali treated yarn length difference mixed fiber yarn fabric was used. Example 3
A high-viscosity treatment liquid having the same composition as the above was uniformly applied to one surface with a thickness of 0.3 mm using a reverse roll coater. Further, this fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment in a hot air treatment device at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes, followed by normal hot water washing, water washing and drying,
A special fabric of the present invention was produced.

The special cloth thus obtained had fluffy fluffy short fluffs of a constant length on the surface at a high density, had a soft touch, and had a high-class feel. However, the waist, feeling of tension, and strength were hardly reduced as compared with the raw material. When the fluff tip was observed with a scanning electron microscope, it was formed in a tapered shape.

Example 5 As a raw fabric, the warp yarn is 75 denier × 72 filaments, the polyester filament of triangular cross section, and the weft yarn are 7
5 denier x 36 filaments, polyester filament with round cross section, warp yarn density of about 80 yarns / inch, weft yarn density of about 70 / inch Weave a plain weave georgette crepe, textured, relaxed, set, alkali-treated strong twist A fiber cloth was used. A high-viscosity treatment liquid having the same composition as in Example 3 was uniformly applied to this raw fabric on one side to a thickness of 0.3 mm using a reverse roll coater. Furthermore, this fabric is heated at 130 ° C x 2 in a hot air treatment device.
After that, a dry heat treatment was performed, and then ordinary hot water washing, water washing, and drying were performed to manufacture the special cloth of the present invention.

The special cloth thus obtained had a high density of short fluff of a certain length in a napped state on the surface, had a soft touch, and had a high-class feel. However, the waist, feeling of tension, and strength were hardly reduced as compared with the raw material. When the fluff tip was observed with a scanning electron microscope, it was formed in a tapered shape.

[0030]

The fluffed fabric of the present invention has short fluffs of uniform length formed in a tapered shape, and the untreated layer keeps the constituent fibers untreated.
Even if the surface is soft, a soft feel is generated, and the cloth has a waist and tension. The conventional fluffed fabric has a defect that it looks whitish due to the condition of light rays when it is dyed in a dark color, but the fluffed fabric of the present invention does not have such a defect and can obtain a beautiful gloss and a deep color tone. it can. Even in the fluffless fabric of the present invention, the polyester filaments present in the treated layer are selectively finely and chemically treated, so that the surface is soft, but the whole is elastic.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged photograph of a fluff portion of a special cloth according to the present invention, which is submitted in place of a drawing, by a scanning electron microscope.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged photograph of a surface of a special cloth according to the present invention, which is submitted in place of a drawing, by a scanning electron microscope.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged photograph by a scanning electron microscope of the original fabric surface of the special cloth shown in FIG. 2, which is submitted in place of the drawing.

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[Procedure amendment]

[Submission date] September 27, 1995

[Procedure amendment 1]

[Document name to be amended] Drawing

[Correction target item name] All figures

[Correction method] Change

[Correction contents]

FIG.

[Fig. 2]

[Figure 3]

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A special fabric, wherein polyester long fibers in at least one surface layer of a fabric containing polyester long fibers are cut in a tapered shape everywhere to form surface fluff. 2. As a result of subjecting at least one surface layer (hereinafter, referred to as a treatment layer) of a fabric containing polyester filaments to a chemical treatment, the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the treated layer is different from that of the fabric. A special fabric characterized by not exceeding 80% of the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the treated layer (portion other than the treated layer). 3. The special fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester filaments in the untreated layer of the fabric have a fineness in the range of 0.1 to 10 denier. 4. The special fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the fabric containing the polyester filaments is a fabric containing the polyester filaments and subjected to an ordinary alkali treatment. . 5. A treatment liquid prepared by blending a component having a viscosity of 200 to 1500 poise that decomposes or dissolves polyester long fibers on at least one surface of a fabric containing the polyester long fibers, and contacts the treatment liquid. 5. The polyester filaments are cut and fluffed at various places by reducing the cross-sectional area of the polyester filaments in the portion to be formed or by a subsequent processing step after reduction. Manufacturing method of special cloth. 6. A treatment liquid containing a component for decomposing or dissolving polyester long fibers, having a viscosity of 200 to 1500 poise, is applied to at least one surface of a fabric containing polyester long fibers and brought into contact with the treatment liquid. The method for producing a special fabric according to claim 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that the cross-sectional area of the polyester continuous fiber in the portion to be filled is reduced to 80% or less of the original cross-sectional area. 7. The production of a special fabric according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the fabric containing the polyester filaments is a fabric containing the polyester filaments and subjected to an ordinary alkali treatment. Method.