JPH101845A - Special fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Problem] Only the surface portion of the fabric is covered with soft ultrafine fibers, has a supple and excellent texture with a cashmere-like touch, and is dyed in a deep color. To provide a special fabric that can be expressed and a manufacturing method thereof. A fabric comprising sea-island fibers comprising a sea component and an island component, wherein at least one surface of the fabric has a sea component in its surface layer removed and covered with ultrafine fibers comprising an island component. A special fabric characterized in that the ultrafine fibers are cut everywhere and the cutting end has a tapered shape.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a soft and fine suede-like texture with a brush-like touch on the surface, which is covered with soft, fine fibers, and is dyed in a deep color and has a strong waist as a whole. There is a special fabric and the surface is supple and has an excellent texture, dyed in a deep color,
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a novel special fabric which is stiff as a whole and substantially free of fluff, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A conventional fluffed fabric is manufactured by raising the surface of the fabric with a needle cloth, sandpaper, or the like, and performing a chemical treatment as necessary. For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 51-84772 discloses that a woven fabric composed of a real twisted yarn made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber and a false twisted yarn in a direction opposite to the real twisted yarn is subjected to an alkali treatment, and then the surface thereof is treated. Is disclosed by raising the fabric with a needle cloth or the like. The thermoplastic synthetic fibers include synthetic fibers made of thermoplastic polymers such as polyamide, polyester, and polyolefin.

[0003] Further, as a brush-finished cloth whose surface is covered with fine fibers, a needle-punched non-woven fabric is made using fibers having a structure and properties of generating ultra-fine fibers, and a polymer elastic material such as polyurethane is formed on the non-woven fabric. After impregnation, turned into ultrafine fibers,
Further, a suede-like fabric obtained by raising this is known. However, these have limitations in reducing the thickness, and are not necessarily sufficient for high-grade clothing in terms of flexibility, drapability and wrinkle form, and strict process control from the manufacturing process point of view. Has to go through a complicated manufacturing process that requires

Further, Japanese Patent Publication No. 46-2782 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 54-28500 disclose that an entire fabric composed of sea-island type fibers is immersed in an agent for dissolving or decomposing sea components to remove sea components. It has been proposed to obtain a fabric composed of ultrafine fibers by processing. But,
Since the entire fabric obtained here is uniformly micronized, the rigidity of the fabric is reduced, the resistance to movement is reduced, and the fabric is concentrated in a certain portion, and a coarse space is generated in the remaining portion, and the tissue density is reduced. Such a decrease in the density may cause misalignment between the fiber structures of the fabric, a loss of the balance of the length and width, and the like.

[0005]

The conventional fluffed raised fabric represented by the above has substantially the same structure in the surface layer portion and the inner layer portion, so that the feel of the surface layer portion of the fabric is softened. If you try to finish, the waist and tension of the fabric will disappear, and conversely if you try to maintain the waist and tension of the fabric,
There was a problem that the feel of the surface layer became hard. Also,
Even in the processing method described in JP-A-57-154458, it is difficult to sufficiently prevent the structural change in the inner layer portion of the fabric by penetrating a large amount of the processing liquid into the inside of the fabric. In particular, in the case of a thin fabric, there is a problem that the fabric is torn.

The object of the present invention is to cover only the surface of the fabric with soft microfibers, to have a cashmere-like touch, to have a supple and excellent texture, and to dye deep colors.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a special fabric capable of expressing a feeling of stiffness and tension as a whole and a method of manufacturing the same.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present invention achieves the above object, and a special cloth of the present invention is a cloth composed of sea-island fibers comprising a sea component and an island component. At least one surface of the surface layer (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a treated layer) is covered with ultrafine fibers composed of island components after removing the sea component in the surface layer, and the ultrafine fibers are cut at various places and the cutting tip is It has a tapered shape.

In the present invention, the treatment layer is a layer located on the surface portion of the sea-island type fiber that has been brought into contact with the treatment liquid in order to obtain a desired texture and feel. Is determined by the quality of the product.

In the special fabric of the present invention, the ultrafine fibers covering the surface of the fabric have a small cross-sectional area not exceeding 1% of the cross-sectional area of the sea-island fibers constituting the fabric by a chemical treatment. More preferably, the fineness of the sea-island fibers constituting the fabric is 1 to 10 denier, and the fineness of the island component (extremely fine fibers) constituting the fabric is 0.005 to 0.
Preferably, it is 9 denier.

In the special fabric of the present invention, the fibers and yarns constituting the fabric are made of sea-island type fibers in terms of formation of ultra-fine fibers and generation of fluff, and the non-treated layer (the The islands-in-sea fibers (used as words) thus maintain the fineness of 1 to 10 denier described above.

The special fabric of the present invention has a viscosity containing a component capable of decomposing or dissolving a sea component and an island component on at least one surface of a fabric composed of sea-island fibers composed of a sea component and an island component. An island having a cross-sectional area changed in the longitudinal direction by applying a processing liquid of 200 to 1500 poise, removing a sea component of a surface layer portion in contact with the processing liquid, and partially decomposing or dissolving the island component. It is manufactured by exposing the ultrafine fibers as components to the surface of the fabric.

In this case, it is preferable that the sea component is composed of a component having higher solubility or decomposability than the island component, that is, a component that is easily soluble or decomposable. And, if the fabric has been subjected to raw material processing by ordinary alkali treatment,
It is easy to finish the desired texture as a whole.

In the special fabric of the present invention, at least one surface of the fabric containing sea-island type fibers is subjected to the chemical treatment. As a result, the fibers in the treated layer have the sea component removed and the island component exposed. And it is cut, the cutting tip has a tapered shape, and with the exposure of ultrafine fibers and the touch of cashmere, it has a supple and excellent texture, it is dyed with a deep color, and it can express the feeling of waist and tension as a whole A special fabric is obtained.

[0014]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The special fabric of the present invention uses a fabric containing sea-island type fibers having a sea component and an island component as a raw material. As the sea component and the island component constituting the sea-island type fiber, a homopolymer or a copolymer such as polyamide, polyester, polyolefin, or polyacrylonitrile is used.In the present invention, the sea component and the island component are:
It is preferable that the combination is one that is commonly decomposed or dissolved in the processing liquid used for the chemical treatment described later, and the component of the sea component is more soluble or decomposable than the island component, that is, It is particularly preferred that it comprises a soluble or readily decomposable component.

The combination of such a sea component and an island component is
An example of the polyester fiber preferably used in the present invention is a sea-island type fiber in which the island component is a homopolyester and the sea component is a polyester copolymer. Here, examples of the homopolyester include polyesters having a basic composition of polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or the like.As the polyester copolymer, a polyester obtained by copolymerizing another component with a polyester having such a basic composition, Examples of components to be copolymerized include polyalkylene glycols such as diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, and polyethylene glycol; diol components such as 1,4-butanediol; adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid;
Dicarboxylic acid components such as -naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and dodecanedioic acid; and polyfunctional dicarboxylic acid components such as trimellitic acid and pyromellitic acid.

The fabric made of these sea-island type fibers may be in the form of a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, or a non-woven fabric, and may be used in combination with other synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, natural fibers, and other long fibers and short fibers. You can also. In order to sufficiently bring out the effects of the present invention, at least two sea-island fibers are required in the treatment layer.
It is desirable that the content is 0% by weight or more, more preferably 50% by weight or more.
It is preferable that the microfibers are configured so as to be present on the fabric surface as much as possible.

The sea-island type fiber preferably has a fineness of 1
The fineness of the ultrafine fibers is preferably from 0.005 to 0.9 denier, and more preferably from 0.03 to 0.5 denier.

In the present invention, the chemical treatment is defined as 200
~ 1500 poise with a high-viscosity treatment liquid means to treat with a treatment liquid that hydrolyzes or dissolves the sea-island type fibers in the surface layer of the raw material, whereby the sea component is removed and ultrafine fibers are formed. The island components are partially dissolved or decomposed, and thinning proceeds, and cutting occurs at any point in the tapered portion. As a result, the cutting tip portion has a tapered shape, and forms a fine fiber or surface fluff. Thus, when the sea component is removed by the treatment liquid,
Island components will also be dissolved or decomposed at the same time,
The degree varies depending on the solubility and degradability of the sea-island component, and the portion in contact with the processing solution is partially thinned, tapered, and cut by the partial treatment of the island component.

As described later, the partial treatment of the island component is preferably achieved by a combination of a high-viscosity treatment solution containing water and a dry heat treatment, and the difference in aggregation of water This causes microscopic dissolution or decomposition, resulting in partial thinning and cutting, and the cut ends are tapered.

The treatment liquid used in the present invention contains a component capable of dissolving or decomposing a sea component and an island component. For example, when the island component is polyethylene terephthalate and the sea component is a polyester copolymer, An aqueous solution containing sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, chlorophenol and the like can be mentioned. The concentration of the treatment liquid is preferably 5 to 30% by weight aqueous solution in the case of sodium hydroxide, and more preferably 10 to 20% by weight aqueous solution. Further, in the present invention, a weight loss accelerator may be used as necessary.

In the present invention, in order to selectively treat the sea-island type fibers present in the surface layer of the fabric, 200 to 15
A treatment liquid having a viscosity of 00 poise is preferably used. Since the treatment liquid has a high viscosity, in the present invention, the penetration depth of the treatment liquid into the fabric can be easily adjusted. Since there is no influence of the treatment liquid, the physical properties such as the original strength of the fiber can be maintained as it is, and the waist and tension can be left on the fabric.

In the present invention, when the viscosity of the treatment liquid is low, which does not reach 200 poise, the treatment liquid rapidly penetrates into the inside of the fabric, and the sea-island type fibers in the inner layer of the fabric are uniformly and indiscriminately treated. Would. Therefore, in this case, the sea-island fibers can be made into ultrafine fibers or divided to form surface fuzz, but this is not preferable because the entire fabric loses its stiffness and tension.

From such a viewpoint, in the present invention, in the case of single-sided treatment, the penetration depth is preferably 6 in the thickness of the fabric.
It can be up to about 0% or up to about 50%, and in the case of double-sided treatment, preferably up to about 30% each.

Further, the upper limit of the viscosity of the treatment liquid of the present invention is defined as a range which can be practically applied to a cloth. The viscosity referred to in the present invention is a value measured using a B-type viscometer (manufactured by Tokyo Keiki Seisakusho) under the conditions of a temperature of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 60%.

In the present invention, starch,
A sizing agent such as sodium alginate, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol or the like can be added to the dissolution solution and used. Starch is preferably used, with the intention that the sizing agent is removed in the after-treatment. The viscosity of the treatment liquid is comprehensively determined together with the treatment temperature, the thickness of the treatment layer, and the composition of the treatment liquid.

Examples of the method for applying the treatment liquid in the present invention include a method using a coater such as a knife coater, a gravure coater, and a reverse roll coater, and a printing method using a flat screen or a rotary screen. If the processing liquid is too high in viscosity, it may be difficult to use the spray method.

The cloth to which the treatment liquid has been applied is then heated. The heat treatment is preferably a dry heat treatment, more preferably a method of heating in a dry heat atmosphere at 110 to 170 ° C, more preferably 110 to 130 ° C for 30 to 200 seconds, or preferably 98 to 150 ° C, more preferably 100 to 150 ° C.
For example, a method of heating in a saturated steam atmosphere at about 130 ° C. for 30 to 200 seconds can be used. .

The fabric thus heat-treated is appropriately washed with hot water, pickled, washed with water and dried. After drying the fabric, if necessary, for example, a normal alkali treatment or
Raising treatment, such as emery raising, may be additionally performed lightly, whereby the number of cut portions of the ultrafine fibers increases, more fluff is generated in the fabric, and the texture can be adjusted. When lanolin, natural wax, or the like is added as a finish, the slimy feeling can be further emphasized.

In the present invention, it is advantageous in terms of hand to perform the above-mentioned chemical treatment and then to carry out the usual alkali treatment as described above. Here, the normal alkali treatment means a treatment in a low-viscosity alkaline liquid bath of about 1 to 5 poise, which is performed on polyester fiber or polyester fiber cloth. Or polyester fabric,
The weight is reduced uniformly and uniformly as a whole. Therefore,
Such ordinary alkali treatment is different from the selective treatment of the surface portion of the fabric with the high viscosity treatment liquid of the present invention. For this normal alkali treatment, for example,
Dyeing industry: Vol. 29 No. Details are described on pages 1210-16.

In the special fabric of the present invention, the sea component in the surface layer is removed and the surface is covered with microfibers composed of island components. The microfibers are cut everywhere, and the cutting tip is tapered. Has a tapered shape. The fineness of the island component is preferably in the range of 0.005 to 0.9 denier, but the cross-sectional area of the tapered cutting end exceeds 1% of the sea-island fiber cross-sectional area constituting the fabric. It is thin enough not to be.

[0031]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. [Example 1] In both the warp and the weft, the sea component is composed of a polyester copolymer (polyethylene terephthalate / polyethylene glycol), and the island component is polyethylene terephthalate. 75 denier x 15 filaments (70 island components, single yarn fineness of 0. 1). 05 denier), a plain woven fabric was woven using a sea-island type fiber yarn, and this was used as a raw fabric.
On the other hand, a high viscosity (450
(Poise) was prepared.

[0032]

[Table 1] ★ Using a reverse roll coater, the treatment liquid prepared as described above was uniformly adhered to one side of the raw material to a thickness of 0.15 mm (depth of treatment liquid: about 20% of the entire cloth thickness).
%). Next, the fabric is subjected to a dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes in a hot air treatment device, followed by ordinary hot water washing, water washing, and drying, and thereafter, the fabric is immersed in a 3% OWS caustic soda solution, Apply normal alkali treatment at 98 ° C for 10 minutes,
A special fabric of the present invention was produced.

The special fabric thus obtained had a soft, fluffy feel on the surface of the treated layer, and had a supple, cashmere-like touch. When the treated layer portion was observed with a microscope, it was observed that, as shown in FIG. 1, the ultrafine fibers were exposed on the surface portion, a part thereof was cut and was fuzzy, and the tip was tapered. . The cross-sectional area was less than 1% of the cross-sectional area of sea-island fiber (cross-sectional area of sea-island fiber 5 denier: 40).
3 μm ² , cross-sectional area of island fiber 0.05 denier: 4 μ
m ² ).

On the other hand, in the non-treated layer portion on the back surface of the fabric, the change in the yarn as described above was not observed as shown in FIG. 2, and the original thickness was maintained. Furthermore, a waisted or taut fabric was obtained as the whole fabric. [Example 2] A 75 denier x 24 filament yarn composed of polyethylene terephthalate was used for the warp yarn, the sea component was composed of a polyester copolymer (including 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), and the island component was composed of polyethylene terephthalate. 130 denier x 24 filaments (70 island components, single yarn fineness 0.05 denier)
The woven satin fabric is woven using the sea-island type fiber yarn of No. 1 to obtain a raw fabric. On the other hand, a high-viscosity (400 poise) treatment liquid having the composition shown in Table 2 below was prepared.

[0035]

[Table 2] ★ Using a reverse roll coater, the treatment liquid prepared as described above was uniformly adhered to one side of the raw material to a thickness of 0.2 mm (the penetration depth of the treatment liquid: about 30% of the entire cloth thickness).
%). Further, the fabric is heated at 130 ° C. × 2 in a hot air treatment device.
For 30 minutes, followed by ordinary hot water washing, water washing, and drying. Thereafter, the cloth is immersed in a 3% OWS caustic soda solution, and then subjected to a normal alkali treatment at 98 ° C. for 10 minutes to obtain a book. A special fabric of the invention was produced.

In the obtained special fabric, the treated layer portion of the surface layer had a soft fluffiness and a supple and excellent texture with a cashmere touch. When the treated layer portion on the surface was observed with a microscope, it was observed that the ultrafine fibers were exposed, a part thereof was cut off, and the tip was tapered. Further, the cross-sectional area was smaller than 1% of the cross-sectional area of the sea-island fiber as in Example 1.

On the other hand, in the non-treated layer portion on the back side, the above-mentioned change in the yarn was not observed, and the original thickness was maintained. Furthermore, a waisted or taut fabric was obtained as the whole fabric. [Example 3] The same plain woven fabric as in Example 1 was used as a reverse. On the other hand, the high viscosity (400 poise) of the composition of the following Table 3
Was prepared.

[0038]

[Table 3] ★ Using a reverse roll coater, the treatment liquid prepared as described above was uniformly adhered to one side of the raw material to a thickness of 0.2 mm (the penetration depth of the treatment liquid: about 30% of the entire cloth thickness).
%). Further, the fabric is heated at 130 ° C. × 2 in a hot air treatment device.
The fabric was immersed in a 3% OWS caustic soda solution and then subjected to a normal alkali treatment at 98 ° C. for 10 minutes. Furthermore, emery raising was performed lightly to produce the special fabric of the present invention.

The treated layer portion of the obtained special fabric had a soft, suede-like touch and a supple and excellent texture. When observing the treated layer part of the surface layer with a microscope,
It was observed that the ultrafine fibers were exposed, most of them were cut and had short fuzz, and the tips were tapered. Further, the cross-sectional area was smaller than 1% of the cross-sectional area of the sea-island fiber as in Example 1.

On the other hand, in the untreated layer portion on the back surface, the above-mentioned change in the yarn was not observed, and the original thickness was maintained. Furthermore, a waisted or taut fabric was obtained as the whole fabric.

[0041]

According to the present invention, the sea component of the sea-island type fiber on at least one surface of the fabric containing the sea-island type fiber composed of the sea component and the island component is removed, and the ultrafine fiber is exposed on the fabric surface, Then, the ultrafine fibers are cut everywhere to form surface fluff by the ultrafine fibers. In addition, as a result of the chemical treatment of the fabric surface layer, ultrafine fibers are exposed on the fabric surface, which is cut by post-processing to produce surface fluff, and has a cashmere or suede-like touch, giving a flexible and excellent texture. There is a deep color, and the untreated part that has not been subjected to chemical treatment remains unchanged in its original thickness without any change in yarn shape or physical properties. There is a feeling of waist and tension.

The tip of the microfiber is tapered and tapered, so that a feather-like touch is obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photomicrograph by a scanning electron microscope showing an enlarged example of a fiber shape on the surface of a special fabric according to the present invention obtained in Example 1.

FIG. 2 is a micrograph by a scanning electron microscope showing an enlarged shape of a fiber on the back surface of the special cloth shown in FIG. 1;

Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Reference number in the agency FI Technical display location D06M 11/38 D06M 5/02 B

Claims (8)

[Claims] 1. A fabric comprising sea-island fibers comprising a sea component and an island component, wherein at least one surface of the fabric is covered with ultrafine fibers comprising an island component from which a sea component is removed. A special fabric characterized in that the ultrafine fibers are cut everywhere and the cutting end has a tapered shape. 2. The microfibers covering the surface of the fabric have a small cross-sectional area not exceeding 1% of the cross-sectional area of the sea-island fibers constituting the fabric by a chemical treatment. The special fabric according to claim 1. 3. The special cloth according to claim 1, wherein the sea-island fibers constituting the cloth have a fineness in a range of 1 to 10 denier. 4. The special fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the ultrafine fibers constituting the fabric is in the range of 0.005 to 0.9 denier. 5. The special cloth according to claim 1, wherein said cloth is made of sea-island type polyester fiber, and said polyester fiber is uniformly treated with alkali. . 6. A viscous material containing a component capable of decomposing or dissolving a sea component and an island component on at least one surface of a fabric composed of a sea-island type fiber composed of a sea component and an island component.
An island having a cross-sectional area changed in the length direction by applying a processing liquid of from 00 to 1500 poise, removing a sea component in a surface layer portion in contact with the processing liquid, and partially decomposing or dissolving the island component. A method for producing a special fabric, comprising exposing ultrafine fibers as a component to a surface portion of the fabric. 7. The method for producing a special fabric according to claim 6, wherein said sea component comprises a component having higher solubility or decomposability than said island component. 8. The method for producing a special fabric according to claim 6, wherein said fabric is made of sea-island type polyester fiber, and said polyester fiber is uniformly alkali-treated. .