JPH09324367A - Wool cloth and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) 【Abstract】 PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To reduce the number of contact points between fibers inside a cloth, to increase the number of micro voids, to give a warm feeling and slimy feeling, and for the cloth itself to have a bulging feeling, elasticity and waist and tension. Provided is a wool fabric containing fibers and a method for producing the same. SOLUTION: This is a fabric containing polyester fibers, and the fibers constituting the fabric have an irregular thickness change in the length direction, and the inside of the fabric is a micro void structure in which the number of contacts of single fibers is small. Is formed, a cross-sectional area of the fiber is partially reduced by applying a high-viscosity treatment liquid containing a component that decomposes or dissolves the fiber from at least one surface of the raw fabric and then performing heat treatment. Thus, a cloth having a tapered thickness can be obtained.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a wool fabric containing polyester fiber and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention has very few contact points between fibers in the inside of the fabric, and has many micro voids, and has a warm feeling and a slimy feel, a wool-tone fabric, and fibers having random thickness unevenness, Moreover, since it has a microscopic thickness change in the longitudinal direction, it has a softness and elasticity for swelling and compression, and a wool fabric made of polyester fiber that is elastic and elastic as a whole, and these wool fabrics. The present invention relates to a manufacturing method of.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various studies have been conducted to give polyester fibers an appearance and texture similar to those of natural fibers. Among them, many studies have been conducted on polyester fibers that have an appearance, texture, and flexibility similar to wool, but it is difficult to obtain a fabric with a slimy feel as a unique touch of wool, and at the stage where it can be replaced with wool. The reality is that it has not arrived.

For example, as a method for imparting a slimy feel to a polyester fiber cloth, JP-A-61-252818 proposes that a polyester fiber contains a specific higher aliphatic monocarboxylic acid ester. Further, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. Hei 5-222669, a woven fabric composed of twisted yarns of air-entangled yarns having sick and thin yarns as sheath yarns and polyester yarns having a boiling water shrinkage ratio higher than that of the sheath yarns as core yarns is A method for producing a wool-like woven fabric, which is characterized by performing a weight reduction process, has been proposed, and it is described that appropriate bulkiness and high resilience can be obtained.

[0004]

The polyester fiber cloths typified by the above do not necessarily have sufficient flexibility and swelling and warming characteristics peculiar to wool, and do not have sufficient sliminess so that wool can be substituted. Therefore, it has not reached the practical level as a polyester fiber to replace wool.

An object of the present invention is a wool-like cloth using polyester fibers, and in order to further express the wool-like texture, the number of contact points between fibers inside the cloth can be reduced and the number of micro voids can be increased. By providing lanolin or the like, the present invention is to provide a wool fabric having a warm feeling and a slimy feel, and the fabric itself containing a polyester fiber having a swelling feel, elasticity, and waist and tension.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing the improved wool fabric as described above by chemical treatment in the post processing of the fabric.

[0007]

The wool fabric of the present invention comprises:
In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, inside a fabric containing polyester fibers, the number of contact points between fibers constituting the fabric is very small, and a large number of micro voids are provided,
The feature thereof is a cloth containing polyester fibers having random thickness unevenness in the length direction, and at least one surface layer side inside of the cloth has a micro void structure with a small number of contact of single fibers. It is the formed woolen cloth.

The wool-like cloth of the present invention has a polyester fiber-containing cloth having a surface area of at least one surface containing a component that decomposes or dissolves the polyester fiber.
After applying a high-viscosity treatment liquid such as 500 poise, heat treatment in a dry heat atmosphere or a saturated steam atmosphere to partially reduce the cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber and change the thickness in a taper shape. Can be manufactured by.

The present invention further includes the following preferred embodiments. a. The polyester fibers constituting the cloth are arranged in the thickness direction from the inner layer portion of the cloth toward at least one surface layer portion so as to gradually reduce the fineness thereof with random thickness unevenness. b. The average number of contact between the single fibers constituting the fabric is 0.3 to 1.5 inside at least one surface layer side of the fabric including the polyester fiber. c. Due to the chemical treatment of the fabric, the cross-sectional area of polyester fiber is mainly 5% of the maximum cross-sectional area of polyester fiber.
Including randomly decreasing polyester fibers in the range up to. d. Include polyester fibers in which the thickness in the longitudinal direction of the polyester fibers changes sharply in a taper shape due to the chemical treatment of the fabric. d. The treatment liquid applied to the cloth should be a treatment liquid containing 50% or more of water. e. The component that decomposes or dissolves the polyester fiber is an alkali metal hydroxide. f. The cloth containing polyester fibers is a cloth that has been treated with an alkali.

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the wool fabric of the present invention, as described above, a chemical treatment is applied from at least one surface of the polyester fiber-containing fabric, and as a result, the cross-sectional area of the treated polyester fiber is increased. , Polyester fibers which are randomly reduced, for example up to 5%, in some cases up to 10%, relative to their maximum cross-sectional area. In other words, assuming that the maximum cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber is 100%, the cross-sectional area distribution of the polyester fiber is randomly distributed between the maximum cross-sectional area of 100% and the reduced minimum cross-sectional area of 5%. In the present invention, mainly up to 5% is intended to mean that the majority of the treated fibers are in the range up to 5%.

The wool fabric of the present invention is a high-viscosity treatment liquid containing 50% or more of water, which is prepared by mixing a component that decomposes or dissolves polyester fiber from at least one surface of the fabric containing polyester fiber. Produced by coating and preferably subjecting it to dry heat treatment to partially reduce the cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber in the portion in contact with the treatment liquid and to rapidly change the longitudinal thickness of the fiber into a taper shape. can do. When the cloth containing the polyester fiber, which is the original fabric, is a cloth subjected to a usual alkali treatment, it is easy to finish the desired texture as a whole.

In the present invention, the application of the treatment liquid is carried out by bringing the treatment liquid into contact with the polyester fibers in order to obtain a desired feel and feel. The treatment liquid is applied to one surface or both surfaces of the cloth to allow the treatment liquid to penetrate. The depth may be the full thickness of the fabric or it may be partial. FIG. 1 is an enlarged photograph by an optical microscope showing a random thick and thin state of single fibers in a woven fabric cross section of a wool cloth according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a taper change in fiber thickness on the surface of the wool cloth according to the present invention. FIG. 3 is a magnified photograph by a scanning electron microscope, and FIG. 3 is a magnified photograph by a scanning electron microscope showing the raw surface of the wool fabric shown in FIG. In contrast to the previous FIG. 3, both the chemically treated FIGS. 1 and 2 clearly show the features of the fiber structure of the wool fabric of the present invention.

The details of the present invention will be further described below.

In the wool fabric of the present invention, a fabric mainly containing polyester fibers is used as a raw fabric. Polyester fiber refers to a fiber containing polyester and / or polyester copolymer. When these polyester fibers are used as yarns, they can be used in the form of multifilaments, monofilaments, spun yarns, modified cross-section yarns, composite yarns, mixed yarns with heterogeneous filaments and the like. The fineness of polyester fiber is 0.1-1
About 0 denier is preferable, and very fine 0.5 to 5 denier is particularly preferable.

In the present invention, other than the polyester fibers, other fibers may be used in combination within the range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. In this case, other synthetic fibers, natural fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, etc. Or short fibers can be used. The ratio of the polyester fibers in the raw fabric varies depending on the form, structure, thickness, etc. of the fabric, but at least 20% by weight, more preferably 5% by weight, is sufficient to bring out the effect of the present invention sufficiently.
It is desired that the content is 0% by weight or more. The form, texture, thickness, etc. of the fabric are not particularly limited, and the fabric can be used in the form of woven fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric, and the like. For example, a plain woven fabric or a flat knitted fabric can be used, or a multilayer fabric having a more complicated structure and thickness can be used.

In the present invention, the chemical treatment is 100 to 1
It refers to a treatment in which the polyester fiber in the raw fabric is hydrolyzed or dissolved by a high-viscosity treatment liquid such as 500 poise to partially and randomly reduce the fiber cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber. Examples of the treatment liquid include aqueous solutions containing alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, chlorophenol, and the like, and sodium hydroxide aqueous solution is particularly preferably used. For example, as the treatment liquid, a 5 to 30 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, more preferably a 10 to 20 wt% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution is used. If necessary, a weight loss promoter such as a quaternary ammonium salt, an amine compound, or a phosphoric acid ester compound can be used.

In the present invention, it is preferable that the treatment liquid usually contains 50% by weight or more of water because uneven weight loss is likely to occur during dry heat treatment and the fiber thickness is randomly changed.

In the present invention, before or after the above-mentioned chemical treatment, the raw fabric may be subjected to the usual alkali reduction treatment which is performed on the polyester fiber cloth. By carrying out the usual alkali treatment, there is an advantage in terms of texture.

Here, the usual alkali treatment means various treatments with a low-viscosity alkaline liquid bath having a viscosity of about 1 to 5 poise, which is carried out to treat polyester fibers or polyester fiber cloth. Depending on the processing
The polyester fiber or polyester fiber cloth to be treated is uniformly weight-reduced as a whole. Therefore,
Such normal alkali treatment is different from the selective treatment of the present invention, which imparts thickness unevenness to the fibers inside the cloth with the high-viscosity treatment liquid. Regarding the usual alkali treatment, for example, Dyeing Industry: 1.29 No. 12, page 10-16.

In the present invention, in order to selectively treat the polyester fibers present in the polyester fiber cloth in the thickness direction of the cloth, it is important that the treatment liquid has a viscosity of 100 to 1500 poise. By using such a high-viscosity treatment liquid, the penetration depth of the treatment liquid into the fabric can be easily adjusted, and it is essential for the polyester fiber present in the layer such as the inner layer portion where the treatment liquid has not penetrated. Since there is no effect on the fabric, the strength of the fiber can be maintained as it is, and the fabric can be left firm and tight.

Further, in the present invention, when the viscosity of the treatment liquid is low, the treatment liquid rapidly penetrates into the inside of the cloth, and the polyester fibers can be treated randomly throughout the thickness direction indiscriminately. Therefore, in the present invention,
When the inside of at least one surface layer side of the fabric is said,
In addition to the inside on the surface layer side of one side or both sides of the fabric,
The interior for the entire fabric is also included.

The upper limit of the viscosity of the treatment liquid is defined as a range practically applicable to the cloth. The viscosity referred to in the present invention is a value measured using a B-type viscometer (manufactured by Tokyo Keiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) under the conditions of a temperature of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 60%.

In the present invention, a sizing agent such as starch, sodium alginate, sodium polyacrylate, or polyvinyl alcohol can be added to the dissolution treatment liquid for adjusting the viscosity. Starch is preferably used, with the intention that the sizing agent is removed in the after-treatment. The viscosity of the treatment liquid is comprehensively determined together with the treatment temperature, the thickness of the treatment layer on the cloth, the composition of the treatment liquid, and the like.

Examples of the method of applying the treatment liquid include a method using a coater such as a knife coater, a gravure coater and a reverse roll coater, and a printing method such as a flat screen and a lorry screen. In the present invention, since the treatment liquid has a high viscosity, it may be difficult to use the spray method.

The cloth coated with the treatment liquid is then heat treated. The heat treatment is preferably 100 to 170 ° C., more preferably 110 to 140 ° C. in a dry heat atmosphere for 30 to 30 ° C.
Method of heating for about 200 seconds, or preferably 9
A method of heating in a saturated steam atmosphere of 8 to 150 ° C., more preferably 100 to 130 ° C. for about 30 to 200 seconds can be used, but in the present invention, the absence of water due to evaporation is timed by a micropoint. By that,
Dry heat treatment is particularly preferably used because the cross-section of the polyester fibers can be reduced randomly.

The cloth thus heat-treated is washed with hot water, vinegar, washed with water and dried as appropriate. After the drying, if necessary, for example, lightly raising treatment such as emery raising may be performed, whereby fluff is generated on the cloth and the texture can be adjusted. Also, as a finishing agent,
For example, by adding lanolin, natural wax, etc.,
The slimy feeling can be emphasized more.

In the present invention, a cloth containing polyester fibers is subjected to a chemical treatment with a highly viscous treatment liquid so that the cross-sectional area of the polyester fibers in the treated layer (inside) of the cloth is maximally cut. It is possible to make the state in which the average number of contact between the constituent fibers is 0.3 to 1.5, while reducing the amount mainly in the range of 5% with respect to the lateral area.

Here, the cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber is
A cross-section measurement sample of the target fabric was prepared by the paraffin embedding method, and the cross-section was enlarged on the photograph to show the cross-sectional area of 50 polyester fibers in the treated layer or partial treated layer of the entire fabric in a certain range. Is the value obtained. The average number of contacts is a value obtained by determining the contact points of the respective fibers in the 50 fibers and dividing the total number of the contact points by the total number of fibers (50 fibers).

As shown in FIG. 2, the thickness of the polyester fiber constituting the cloth in the longitudinal direction is rapidly changed from the original thickness to a taper shape.
This is one of the reasons why the number of fibers contacting is reduced. By the way, in the case of thick and thin yarn, the change in thickness is almost uniform on the order of several mm to several cm, but in the case of the present invention, several tens to several hundreds of μm in the fiber length direction. Random and irregular thick and thin in units of.

The wool cloth of the present invention is a cloth containing polyester fibers having random thickness unevenness in the lengthwise direction as described above, and at least one of the insides of the surface layer portion of the cloth has a random thickness unevenness. Due to this, a microvoid structure is formed in which the number of single fibers contacting each other is small. As described above, in the case of the raw fabric shown in FIG. 3, in addition to the large number of contact points of each fiber, the space formed by the fiber gap is somewhat macroscopic, whereas in the case of FIG. In the fabric of the present invention shown in (1), the fibers are partially thin and thin with random thickness unevenness, and a microvoid structure in which the number of fibers contacting each other is small is formed. In the microvoid structure of the present invention, the voids inside the fabric are not formed in a large and curved shape, but are formed by a large number of fine voids dispersed therein.

The "micro void structure" in the present invention is a concept grasped in comparison with the state as shown in FIG. 3 as described above.

In the trial, in the case of the usual alkali weight reduction treatment, the entire fiber is continuously and uniformly weight-reduced, but in the case of the present invention, as described above, the fiber length is several tens of μm. Random thickness is made in units of several hundred μm.

As one aspect of the fabric of the present invention, fibers having random thickness unevenness are arranged in the thickness direction of the fabric so that the fineness of the fabric gradually decreases from the inner layer to at least one surface layer. ing. In this case, the micro void structure also has a structure that changes in the thickness direction of the fabric.

In the woolen cloth of the present invention, the fibers constituting the cloth exhibit an irregular thickness change, a micro void structure is formed inside the cloth, and moreover, the fibers are tapered in the longitudinal direction. By changing the thickness, it is soft and elastic against warm feeling, slimy feeling and compression. Further, by adjusting the change in thickness, it is possible to control the above-mentioned characteristics, waist and tension. The wool fabric of the present invention can be preferably used for general clothing as a substitute for wool.

[0035]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. (Example 1) As a raw fabric, a polyester filament alignment yarn composed of a high shrinkage yarn of 30 denier x 6 filaments and a low shrinkage yarn of 30 denier x 72 filaments was used for the warp yarn, and 150 denier x 9 for the weft yarn.
A plain fabric using 6 filament polyester filament yarn was prepared. On the other hand, as the treatment liquid, a treatment liquid having a composition of the following Table 1 and a viscosity of 220 poise was prepared.

[0036]

[Table 1] ★ Using a reverse roll coater, 60 g of the above treatment liquid /
An m ² weight was uniformly applied to one side of the original fabric. Next, this fabric was subjected to dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes in a hot air treatment apparatus, and subsequently, ordinary washing with hot water, washing with water and drying were carried out to produce a wool fabric of the present invention. When the cross section of the obtained fabric was observed with an optical microscope and the surface of the fabric was observed with a scanning electron microscope, the inside had microscopic voids with an average contact number of 0.9 and few contact points between fibers, The treated fibers had random thick and thin (mostly 7-70% reduction with respect to the cross-sectional area of the original fiber). The fabric thus obtained had many micro voids inside the fabric, had a warm feeling and a soft touch, and had a swelling feeling, elasticity, and a soft texture. (Example 2) As a raw fabric, both warp and weft are 100
A modified twill fabric using denier x 36 filament composite temporary warp yarn was prepared. On the other hand, as the treatment liquid, a treatment liquid having a composition of the following Table 2 and a viscosity of 280 poise was prepared.

[0037]

[Table 2] * Using a reverse roll coater, 70g /
An m ² weight was uniformly applied to one side of the original fabric. Next, this fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment in a hot air treatment apparatus at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes, followed by ordinary washing with hot water, washing with water and drying, and lanolin is added as a finishing agent after dyeing. Chofu fabric was manufactured. When the cross section of the fabric was observed with an optical microscope and the surface of the fabric was observed with a scanning electron microscope, microscopic voids with few average contact points between the fibers were formed inside, and the fibers were randomly thick or thin ( Most of them were reduced by 5 to 90% with respect to the cross-sectional area of the original fiber). The obtained fabric had many micro voids inside the fabric, had a swelling feeling, and had a soft and soft texture. (Example 3) As a raw fabric, a twill fabric was prepared using a spun yarn in which a warp yarn and a weft yarn were each twisted with a cotton count of 1.5 denier and a No. 30 single yarn was twisted 300 times / m. On the other hand, as the treatment liquid, a treatment liquid having a composition of the following Table 3 and a viscosity of 280 poise was prepared.

[0038]

[Table 3] ★ 60 of the processed liquid prepared using a reverse roll coater
A weight of g / m ² was evenly coated on one side of the raw fabric. next,
The fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. for 2 minutes in a hot air treatment device, followed by normal hot water washing, water washing and drying, and lanolin is added as a finishing agent after dyeing to obtain the wool fabric of the present invention. Manufactured. When the cross section of the fabric was observed with an optical microscope and the surface of the fabric was observed with a scanning electron microscope, microscopic voids were formed inside the fibers with an average number of contacts of 0.8 and there were few contact points between the fibers. (Mostly reduced by 5 to 90% with respect to the cross-sectional area of the original fiber).
The obtained wool-tone fabric had many micro voids inside the fabric, had a feeling of swelling and sliminess, was soft to the touch, and had a high-class feel.

[0039]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION The wool fabric of the present invention contains polyester fibers, and the polyester fibers are varied in a thick and thin pattern, which is randomly distributed, and the thickness is tapered in the longitudinal direction of the fibers. Because of the rapid change in shape, the contact points between the single fibers inside the cloth are smaller than those of the normal cloth, and many micro voids are formed. The conventional wool-like fabric made of polyester fiber lacks in swelling, warmth and sliminess, but the wool-like fabric of the present invention has a plump warmth and sliminess, and is soft to the touch. It also gives a soft feel, and the waist and tension of the fabric are comparable.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged photograph showing the shape of a fiber by an optical microscope showing a random thick and thin state of the fiber cross section of the wool fabric according to the present invention, which is submitted in place of the drawing.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged photograph showing a fiber shape by a scanning electron microscope showing a taper change of the fiber thickness on the surface of the wool fabric according to the present invention, which is submitted in place of the drawing.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged photograph showing the shape of fibers by a scanning electron microscope, which is submitted instead of a drawing and shows the raw surface of the wool fabric shown in FIG. 2.

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A fabric containing polyester fibers having random thickness irregularities in the length direction, wherein at least one surface layer portion inside has a microvoid structure in which the number of single fibers contacting each other is small. Wool-like fabric characterized by being. 2. The polyester fibers are arranged in the thickness direction from the inner layer portion of the cloth toward at least one surface layer portion so as to gradually reduce the fineness thereof with random thickness unevenness. The wool fabric according to claim 1. 3. The average number of contacts of fibers constituting the cloth is 0.3 to 1.5 inside at least one surface layer side of the cloth containing the polyester fiber. The wool fabric according to claim 1 or claim 2. 4. A chemical treatment of a fabric comprising polyester fibers, the cross-sectional area of said polyester fibers being randomly reduced, mainly in the range of up to 5% relative to the maximum cross-sectional area of said polyester fibers. The wool fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is characterized. 5. A polyester fiber in which the thickness in the longitudinal direction of the polyester fiber is drastically changed into a taper shape by the chemical treatment of the fabric is included. The wool cloth as described in. 6. A treatment liquid having a viscosity of 100 to 1500 poise containing a component for decomposing or dissolving the polyester fiber is applied from at least one surface of a fabric containing the polyester fiber, and then in a dry heat atmosphere or a saturated steam atmosphere. A method for producing a wool fabric, characterized in that the cross-sectional area of the polyester fiber is partially reduced and the thickness thereof is changed in a taper shape by heat treatment in the same. 7. The method for producing a wool fabric according to claim 6, wherein the treatment liquid is a treatment liquid containing 50% or more of water. 8. The method for producing a wool fabric according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the component that decomposes or dissolves the polyester fiber is an alkali metal hydroxide. 9. The fabric containing the polyester fiber is a fabric which has been treated with an alkali.
A method for producing the wool fabric according to any one of claims 8 to 9.