JPH101414A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare the subject cosmetic containing three kinds of specific substances, mutually not interfering their actions, synthetically stimulating the functions of skin and excellent in a skin ageing-preventing effect. SOLUTION: This cosmetic contains (A) a fibroblast collagen synthesis- stimulating substance, (B) a fibroblast collagenase production-stimulating substance, and (C) an epidermal cell ceramide synthesis-stimulating substance. The component A includes one or more kinds of ascorbic acid (derivatives). The component B includes serine (derivatives), ethanolamine (derivatives), silk partially hydrolysates, silicic acid-related substances and their salts. The component C includes nicotinic acid (derivatives) and nicotinyl alcohol (salts). The components are preferably compound is amounts of 0.01-10wt.%, 0.001-10wt.% and 0.001-10wt.%, respectively, based on the whole amount of the cosmetic. Thereby, the cosmetic enhances the metabolism rotation of collagen, activates the synthesis of ceramide, and gives the objective effects.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for enhancing skin function, comprising a fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance, a fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance, and an epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance. The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic having excellent aging prevention effects (e.g., skin softening effect, skin beam improving effect, skin wrinkle improving effect, etc.).

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Aged skin has a dry and rough skin-like state, which is caused by a decrease in the water-retaining function of the stratum corneum, a decrease in the barrier function, and a decrease in sebum secretion. It is thought to be due to a decrease in the amount. In addition, both epidermis and dermis are accompanied by a decrease in cell number,
Metabolic function declines. Furthermore, it is known that the activity of redox-related enzymes in the epidermis and the oxygen partial pressure of the skin decrease, and the turnover speed of the stratum corneum decreases. On the other hand, collagen and elastin are components that form most of the structure of the skin, and are said to affect the elasticity and flexibility of the skin. It is thought that the aging decreases the soluble fraction of these components, forms a crosslinked structure, and reduces elasticity and flexibility. In addition, the metabolism of collagen decreases with aging, and hyaluronic acid, which is an intercellular substance of the skin, is significantly reduced, leading to a decrease in the water content of the skin. As a result, the aging skin is generally atrophied and thinned, loses its flexibility, elasticity and smoothness, and becomes rough skin.

[0003] As an agent for improving such aged skin,
Many cosmetics containing collagen or hyaluronic acid have been proposed, but they only improve the moisturizing effect on the surface and do not essentially improve aging skin. Others
Although vitamins and herbal medicines are used as skin cell activators, the current situation is that the treatment of aging skin has not yet been achieved.

Under these circumstances, collagenase, which is a rate-limiting enzyme for collagen degradation, is used to prevent a decrease in collagen turnover (generally, the turnover of collagen is determined by the rate of collagen degradation and the rate of synthesis) accompanying aging. A method for enhancing collagenase production has already been proposed by the present inventors (Patent No. 203).
7907, JP 1859690, JP-A-6-24935) and skin cosmetics containing them (JP-A-4-74106, JP-A-4-9500)
No. 8) has been found.

Further, it contains ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof and a collagenase production-promoting substance based on the idea of simultaneously promoting the opposite actions of synthesis and decomposition of collagen and more positively promoting the metabolism of collagen. The present inventors have already found a skin cosmetic (JP-A-5-32537).

In order to improve the water retention function and barrier function of the reduced stratum corneum, a method of activating ceramide synthesis in cells in the skin epidermis itself has been considered. Ceramide synthesis accelerators such as derivatives (Japanese Patent Application No. 7-116367) have been found.

[0007] However, since all of these improvements are focused on a part of the skin, they cannot be said to be sufficient as anti-aging effects on the skin.

Against this background, an object of the present invention is to provide a substance that promotes collagen synthesis of fibroblasts and a substance that promotes collagenase production without interfering with each other's actions, thereby enhancing collagen turnover. , A ceramide synthesis promoting substance that activates ceramide synthesis enhances skin function comprehensively, preventing skin aging (skin softening effect, skin abrasion improvement effect, skin wrinkle improvement effect) And the like) to provide an excellent skin cosmetic.

[0009]

That is, the present invention provides:
(1) A skin cosmetic comprising a fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance, a fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance, and an epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance, (2)
The skin cosmetic composition according to the above (1), wherein the fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance is one or more selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and (3) the fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance is serine. And (1) a skin cosmetic according to any one of the above (1) to (2), which is one or more selected from the group consisting of ethanolamine and a derivative thereof, and (4) a fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance. Is a sulfuric acid hydrolyzate of silk fiber having a molecular weight of 500 or less, the skin cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (2) above, and (5) a fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance is a silicic acid-related substance. And any one or more of the above-mentioned (1) to (2), which are selected from the group consisting of: One or two or more at which the selected from nicotinic acid and the group consisting of derivatives (1)
To (5), (7) the epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance is one or more selected from the group consisting of nicotinyl alcohol and salts thereof (1) to (5). The skin cosmetic according to any one of 5).

[0010]

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below in detail. Examples of the fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance used in the present invention include ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbic acid phosphate and sulfate and its salts, ascorbic acid monostearate, ascorbic acid monopalmitate, and ascorbic acid diester. Palmitic acid esters and the like can be mentioned.

The content of ascorbic acid and its derivatives as the fibroblast collagen synthesis promoter used in the present invention is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight (hereinafter referred to as the total weight of the skin cosmetic of the present invention). , Simply shown as%). If the content is less than 0.01%, the effect is not sufficient, and if it exceeds 10%, the effect corresponding to the increased amount cannot be expected.

[0012] The fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance used in the present invention includes a procollagenase producing substance (collagenase is secreted from cells as a procollagenase which is a precursor. And the like, for example, serine and its derivatives, ethanolamine and its derivatives, partially hydrolyzed silk, silicic acid-related substances and their salts, and the like.

[0013] Serine and its derivatives include, for example, L
-Serine, DL-serine, N-methyl-L-serine, N
-Methyl-DL-serine, N, N-dimethyl-L-serine, N, N-dimethyl-DL-serine and the like.

Examples of ethanolamine and its derivatives include monoethanolamine, N-methylethanolamine, N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, N-methyl- Examples thereof include 2-amino-1-butanol and N-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol. Ethanolamine and its derivatives are used in the form of a free amine or an amine salt. Examples of the amine salt include salts of mineral acids such as hydrochloride, sulfate, nitrate and phosphate, acetate, lactate, citrate, malate, tartrate, fumarate, maleate, and lower fatty acids. And salts of organic acids such as salts and higher fatty acid salts.

[0015] The partially hydrolyzed silk, particularly the water-soluble silk peptide, is a known substance used in skin cosmetics and the like.
No. 9-31520 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-41043 are known. Among the partially hydrolyzed silk products, the molecular weight is 5
Sulfuric acid hydrolysates of silk fibers of 00 or less can be mentioned as particularly preferred.

Examples of the silicic acid-related substances and salts thereof include silicic acid, potassium silicate, sodium metasilicate, sodium orthosilicate and the like described in JP-A-7-188036.

The content of the fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance used in the present invention varies depending on the dosage form.
When serine and its derivatives, ethanolamine and its derivatives or silicic acid-related substances and their salts are used, their content is preferably 0.001 to 10% based on the total weight of the skin cosmetic of the present invention. When a sulfuric acid hydrolyzate of silk fiber is used, this substance containing 0.5 to 4% as silk fiber is preferably 0.1 to 10% based on the total weight of the skin cosmetic of the present invention. . If the content is less than the lower limit, the effect is not sufficient, and if the content exceeds the upper limit, the effect corresponding to the increased amount cannot be expected.

Nicotinic acid and its derivatives, which are mentioned as the epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoter used in the present invention, include nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, methylnicotinic acid, ethylnicotinic acid, benzylnicotinic acid, tocopherol nicotinate and citric acid Nicamethate and the like. Examples of nicotinyl alcohol and its salt include nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinyl alcohol tartrate and the like.

The content of the epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance used in the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 10% based on the total weight of the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention. If the content is less than the lower limit, the effect is not sufficient, and if the content exceeds the upper limit, the effect corresponding to the increased amount cannot be expected.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain lotions, emulsions, creams, ointments, packs,
It can be made into a dosage form such as powders. Further, the skin cosmetic of the present invention includes a surfactant, a humectant, a ph regulator, a thickener, a bactericide, a preservative, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a pigment,
An ultraviolet absorber, a pigment and the like can be appropriately compounded within a range that achieves the object of the present invention.

[0021]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The blending amount (%) means% by weight. The skin viscoelasticity test, rough skin improvement effect test, and sensory test (skin skin effect test) described in the examples are as follows.

(1) Skin viscoelasticity test Wistar hairless rats (6 weeks old, male, group 5)
) Was shaved, and 0.1 g of the sample was applied to a 2 × 2 cm site on the right shoulder every day. On the 21st day after the start of the test, the application site and the non-application site were determined as described in JP-A-4-1552.
The skin viscoelasticity value was measured using a surface viscoelasticity measuring device described in No. 23, and the average value of the skin viscoelasticity values of each group was determined. still,
Skin viscoelasticity value displayed by the measuring device (arbitrary unit)
Indicates that the skin is too hard.

(2) Skin roughness improvement effect test The effect of continuous application for four weeks on 20 middle-aged and elderly subjects with rough skin on the lower leg was examined. About 1 g of a sample was applied to the test site of the lower leg of the subject twice a day twice a day, and the skin condition before and after the start of the test was determined according to the following criteria. The lower right leg served as a control without the application of the sample. [Criteria for skin dryness]-: Normal ±: Slightly dry, no desquamation +: Dry, desquamation mild ++: Dry, moderate desquamation +++: Dry, desquamation remarkable Compare the test results before and after test with control site , When the dryness of the skin is improved by two or more steps (for example, + →-,
++ → ±) was regarded as “valid”, the case where the signal was improved by one step was “slightly valid”, and the case where there was no change was “invalid”. The test results were indicated by the number of subjects who became “effective” and “slightly effective”.

(3) Sensory test (Beauty skin effect test) Female subjects (35 to 5) who complain of rough skin, fine wrinkles, dry skin, etc.
Twenty subjects (5 years old) were allowed to apply the sample twice a day (morning / evening) for two consecutive months, and then evaluated for improvement in skin softness, abrasion, and wrinkles. The results are shown by the number of respondents who answered, "Improved skin flexibility", "Improved skin beam", and "Improved skin wrinkles" for each item.

Example 1, Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3 [Skin Cream] The present invention and comparative skin cream were prepared as shown in Table 1, and the above tests were carried out. The results are shown in Table 2. . (1) Composition

[0026]

[Table 1]

(2) Preparation method The component (C) is uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80 ° C, and the mixture is added to the component (A) which has been uniformly mixed and dissolved at about 80 ° C and emulsified. (B) which was mixed and dissolved uniformly in
And cooled to about 30 ° C. to prepare. (3) Result

[0028]

[Table 2] * The skin viscoelasticity value of the application site was shown as a relative value with the value of the non-application site as a reference (1.0).

As can be seen from the table, the skin cream of the present invention of Example 1 showed good results over all the tests in comparison with the skin creams of Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3.

Example 2, Comparative Examples 4, 5, 6 [Skin Lotion] The skin lotion of the present invention and a comparative skin lotion were prepared as shown in Table 3, and the above test was carried out.
Table 4 shows the results. (1) Composition and preparation method

[0031]

[Table 3]

Each component was mixed and dissolved to prepare a lotion. (2) Result

[0033]

[Table 4] * Immerse 10 g of bleached silk in 50 ml of 40% by volume sulfuric acid, heat at 60 for 12 hours, add 200 ml of cold water, leave at room temperature overnight, and gradually add 10N sodium hydroxide solution to the medium. After summing, the mixture was filtered to obtain 330 ml of a supernatant (containing 3% of fibroin).

As can be seen from the table, the skin lotion of the present invention of Example 2 showed better results in all of the tests than the skin lotions of Comparative Examples 4, 5, and 6.

Example 3, Comparative Examples 7, 8, and 9 [Essence] The essence of the present invention comprising a lotion and a powder was prepared as shown in Tables 5 and 6 for use at the time of use. Was used in an appropriate amount, and the test was carried out. The results are shown in Table 7. (1) Composition and preparation method 1 agent: lotion

[0036]

[Table 5]

Each component was mixed and dissolved to prepare a lotion. Two agents: powder

[0038]

[Table 6]

Each component was dispersed and mixed to prepare a powder. (2) Result

[0040]

[Table 7]

As can be seen from the table, the essence of the present invention of Example 3 showed better results in all of the tests than the essences of Comparative Examples 7, 8, and 9.

As described above, the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention enhances skin function and prevents skin aging (e.g., skin softening effect, skin abrasion improving effect, skin wrinkle improving effect, etc.).
It is clear that it is excellent.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code Agency reference number FI Technical display location A61K 7/48 A61K 7/48 (72) Inventor Shintaro Inoue 5-3-1 Kotobukicho, Odawara-shi, Kanagawa No. 28 Kanebo Co., Ltd.

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A skin cosmetic comprising a fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance, a fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance, and an epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance. 2. A fibroblast collagen synthesis promoting substance,
The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, which is one or more selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof. 3. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance is one or more selected from the group consisting of serine and its derivatives or ethanolamine and its derivatives. Fees. 4. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance is a sulfuric acid hydrolyzate of a silk fiber having a molecular weight of 500 or less. 5. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the fibroblast collagenase production promoting substance is one or more selected from the group consisting of silicic acid-related substances and salts thereof. 6. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance is one or two or more selected from the group consisting of nicotinic acid and derivatives thereof. 7. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the epidermal cell ceramide synthesis promoting substance is one or more selected from the group consisting of nicotinyl alcohol and salts thereof.