JPH11199425A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain an economically advantageous cosmetic having an excellent UV light-protecting effect and an excellent bleaching effect for the skin and highly safe to the skin by adding specific L-ascorbic acid derivative and a UV light absorbent. SOLUTION: This cosmetic contains (A) 0.01-10.0 wt.% of a L-ascorbic acid derivative of the formula (R is a 1-22C alkyl) (for example, L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid), (B) 0.1-20.0 wt.% of a UV light absorbent in a component A/component B weight ratio of 1:5 to 50:1, and, if necessary, (C) a moisturizing agent, an animal or plant extract, a polyhydric alcohol, a lower alcohol, a surfactant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, a perfume, a thickening agent, an antioxidizing agent, a chelating agent, a pH-adjusting agent, etc. The component B is preferably octyl p-methoxysinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxy-4'-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, etc.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a cosmetic, and more particularly, to a cosmetic for skin having an excellent UV protection effect and a whitening effect on the skin, excellent skin safety and good storage stability. It concerns cosmetics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Ultraviolet light (UV) has a wavelength of 400 to 320.
nmA, UVB having a wavelength of 320 to 290 nm, and UVC having a wavelength of 290 to 180 nm. Of these, UVC does not reach the surface of the earth because it is absorbed and scattered by the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere. Ultraviolet rays UVA and UVB reaching the ground surface have a strong direct effect on the human body.

[0003] Although UVA has weak energy itself, it reaches the dermis deep in the skin and promotes aging of the skin. On the other hand, UVB has strong energy and causes inflammation on the surface of the skin to make the skin bulk.

[0004] It is considered that pigment melanin is deeply involved in skin darkening. In other words, it is considered that melan is produced in the skin tissue of the skin upon receiving an external stimulus such as ultraviolet rays, and as a result, the blackening of the skin is promoted, and symptoms such as spots, freckles, and darkness are caused. Therefore, various UV absorbers have been used to protect against UV rays. However, the UV absorber generally has a problem that the protective effect is weak when the UV absorber is used in a small amount, and skin irritation occurs when the UV absorber is used in a large amount to enhance the protective effect.

On the other hand, in recent years, with the advancement of dermatology and the elucidation of the complex mechanism of melanin production, the development of whitening agents for suppressing excessive melanin production has been promoted, and some of them have already been put to practical use. Such whitening agents include, for example, vitamin C and its derivatives, arbutin, kojic acid, glabridine and the like. However, these whitening agents are not always satisfactory, such as poor storage stability, insufficient whitening effect, or are difficult to obtain and expensive.

[0006]

Under such circumstances, the present invention has an excellent ultraviolet protection effect and a whitening effect on the skin, and has excellent skin safety and storage stability. An object of the present invention is to provide a good and economically advantageous skin cosmetic.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to develop a skin cosmetic having the above-mentioned preferable properties, and as a result, have found that an L-ascorbic acid derivative and an ultraviolet absorber are used in combination. Thus, they have found that the object can be achieved by a synergistic effect, and have completed the present invention based on this finding.

That is, the present invention relates to (A) a compound represented by the general formula (I)

Embedded image (Wherein, R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms), and a cosmetic comprising (B) an ultraviolet absorber and an L-ascorbic acid derivative. is there.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the cosmetic of the present invention,
As the component (A), general formula (I)

Embedded image (In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.) An L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the following formula is used.

The alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R in the general formula (I) may be linear, branched or cyclic, such as methyl, ethyl, n -Propyl group, isopropyl group, n-butyl group,
Isobutyl group, sec-butyl group, tert-butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, octyl group, decyl group,
Dodecyl group, tetradecyl group, hexadecyl group, octadecyl group, behenyl group, cyclopropyl group, cyclobutyl group, cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, cyclooctyl group and the like.

The L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the general formula (I) is a known compound.
It can be easily produced according to the method described in JP-A-134055.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, as the component (A), one kind of the L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the above general formula (I) may be used, or two or more kinds may be used in combination. However, from the viewpoint of effect and stability,
Is an ethyl group, and L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid is preferred.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, an ultraviolet absorber is used as the component (B). This UV absorber
For example, it can be classified into benzoic acid, salicylic acid, cinnamic acid, benzophenone, and others.

Examples of the benzoic acid ultraviolet absorber include p-aminobenzoic acid, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, ethyl N, N-dihydroxypropyl-p-aminobenzoate, and N-ethoxylate-p-amino. Benzoic acid ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl-p-
Amylaminobenzoic acid ester, N, N-dimethyl-p
Octyl aminobenzoate, N-acetyl-o
-Homobenzoyl aminobenzoate, and the like.

Examples of the salicylic acid-based ultraviolet absorber include amyl salicylate, menthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate and the like.

Examples of the cinnamic acid ultraviolet absorber include octyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropyl cinnamate, ethyl 2,4-diisopropyl cinnamate, methyl 2,4-diisopropyl cinnamate, propyl p
-Methoxycinnamate, isoprovir p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-
Ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-
β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, glyceryl mono (2
-Ethylhexanoate) -di (p-methoxycinnamate) and the like.

As the benzophenone-based ultraviolet absorber,
For example, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2 '
-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,
2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone and the like.

Other UV absorbers include, for example, 3-
(4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, l-camphor,
3-benzylidene-d, l-camphor, urocanic acid, urocanic acid ethyl ester, 2-phenyl-5-
Methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5
Methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, dibenzarazine, dianisoyylmethane, 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 5- (3
Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, 3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one and chalcone derivatives.

These ultraviolet absorbers may be used alone or in combination of two or more. However, octyl p-methoxy is particularly preferred in that a more excellent whitening effect and a stimulating effect can be obtained. Cinnamate, 2-hydroxy-
4-methoxybenzophenone and 4-methoxy-4'-
t-Butyl-dibenzoylmethane is preferred.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the content ratio of the L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) and the ultraviolet absorbent of the component (B) is in the range of 1:50 to 50: 1 by weight. This is very important. If this ratio deviates from the above range, the synergistic effect is not sufficiently exhibited, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. In order to obtain a cosmetic composition which exhibits a synergistic effect sufficiently and has a balanced level of ultraviolet protection effect, whitening effect, skin safety and storage stability at a high level, (A)
The ratio of the component to the component (B) is from 1:30 to 3 by weight.
A range of 0: 1 is preferred, and a range of 1:10 to 10: 1 is particularly preferred.

The content of the L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) in the cosmetic of the present invention is appropriately selected according to the form of the cosmetic, but is generally 0 based on the total amount of the cosmetic. It is selected in the range of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the whitening effect may not be sufficiently exerted. If the amount is more than 10.0% by weight, no improvement in the effect can be recognized for the amount. Become. Taking into account the whitening effect and economic efficiency, the content of the L-ascorbic acid derivative is particularly preferably 0.1 to
A range of 5.0% by weight is preferred.

Further, the above-mentioned (B) in the cosmetic of the present invention.
The content of the component ultraviolet absorber is appropriately selected according to the form of the cosmetic, but generally, based on the total amount of the cosmetic,
It is selected in the range of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, the effect of protecting against ultraviolet rays may not be sufficiently exerted. If the amount exceeds 20.0% by weight, irritation to the skin is increased, which is not preferable. In consideration of the UV protection effect and the irritation to the skin, the content of the UV absorber is preferably in the range of 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, if desired, various components conventionally used in skin cosmetics, such as humectants, animal and plant extracts, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, Activator, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, antiseptic, antiseptic, perfume, thickener, antioxidant, chelating agent, pH adjuster, pigment, ultraviolet scattering agent, vitamins, amino acids, other whitening agents, anti-inflammatory Agents, astringents, water and the like can be added.

Examples of the humectant include polyethers such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and sorbitol, and NMF (natural humectant). Specific examples include amino acids, urea, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and proteins such as collagen and elastin.

Examples of the oil component include liquid oils such as castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil and camellia oil, solid oils such as hardened castor oil, waxes such as lanolin, whale wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, squalane, Examples include hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, liquid paraffin, sericin, and paraffin.

Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, polyglycerin, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, and the like. Are glucose, maltose, mannose, lactose, D-glucuronic acid, uronic acid, saccharose, D-mannitol, D-sorbitol, sorbitan, glucolactone, cellulose, starch, arbutin, monosaccharides such as glucose phosphate, and polysaccharides And their derivatives. Examples of the lower alcohol include ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol.

As the surfactant, for example, polyoxyethylene (POE) sorbitan monooleate or the like
E sorbitan esters, sorbitan esters such as sorbitan monooleate, POE-glycerin fatty acid esters such as POE-glyceryl monooleate, glycerin fatty acid esters such as glycerin monooleate,
POE-fatty acid esters such as POE-monooleate; POE-alkyl ethers such as POE-lauryl ether; PEs such as POE-octyldodecyl ether;
OE-branched alkyl ethers, POE-alkyl phenyl ethers such as POE-nonylphenyl ether, glycerol esters such as glycerol monoisostearate, POE-glycerol esters such as POE-glycerol monoisostearate, diglyceryl monostearate and the like. Nonionic surfactants such as polyglycerin fatty acid esters, fatty acid soaps such as sodium and potassium salts of higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, higher alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, POE-lauryl sulfate triethanolamine, etc. Alkyl ether sulfates, N-acyl sarcosine salts such as sodium lauroyl sarcosine, and higher fatty acid amide sulfo such as N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurine sodium. Acid salts, anionic surfactants such as sodium alkylbenzenesulfonate such as sodium linear dodecylbenzenesulfonate, N-acyl glutamates such as disodium N-stearoylglutamate, alkylamine salts, POE-alkylamine salts, polyamine fatty acids Derivatives, alkylpyridinium salts, alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkylisoquinolinium salts,
Cationic surfactants such as dialkyl morphonium salts and benzethonium chloride, betaines, imidazolines,
Examples include amphoteric surfactants such as amine oxides.

Examples of the emulsifier include glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, soybean phospholipid and the like.
Examples of the flavor include plant natural flavors such as incense, animal natural flavors, and synthetic flavors.

Examples of the antiseptic / antiseptic include methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate, dehydroacetic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, benzalkonium chloride and the like. For example, natural polymer substances such as sodium alginate, xanthan gum, aluminum silicate, malomelo seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, semi-synthetic polymer substances such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, soluble starch, cationized cellulose, carboxyvinyl Examples of the polymer include synthetic polymers such as polymers and polyvinyl alcohol.

Examples of the antioxidant include dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole,
As propyl gallate, ascorbic acid, etc., as chelating agents, for example, disodium edetate, ethanehydroxydiphosphate, pyrophosphate, hexametaphosphate, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, etc., as a pH adjuster, Examples include sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, boric acid, borax, sodium hydrogen phosphate and the like.

Further, as the ultraviolet scattering agent, for example, titanium oxide, kaolin, talc, etc., and as the vitamins, for example, vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin K, vitamin P , Vitamin U, carnitine, ferulic acid, α-oryzanol, α-riboic acid, orotic acid and derivatives thereof, and the like, as amino acids, for example, glycine, alanine,
Examples include valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, cystine, cysteine, methionine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, arginine, histidine, lysine and derivatives thereof.

Other whitening agents include, for example, arbutin,
Kojic acid, glabridine, placenta extract, ellagic acid and the like can be mentioned.

The cosmetic of the present invention comprises the component (A) L-
By appropriately blending the ascorbic acid derivative, the ultraviolet absorber of the component (B) and these optional components according to a known method, a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, a pack,
It can be used as various skin product forms such as powder, spray, ointment, dispersion, and cleanser.

For example, in the case of an emulsion or the like, it can be prepared by a usual method in which an oil phase and an aqueous phase, each of which is heated and dissolved, are mixed, emulsified, dispersed and cooled.

[0035]

Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example 1 Preparation of lotion (% by weight) (a) 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.5 (b) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 1.0 (c) ) Glycerin 5.0 (d) Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (2OE.O.) 1.0 (e) Ethanol 6.0 (f) Perfume appropriate amount (g) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (h) Purification Water Remaining Total 100.0 The above components (a) to (h) were mixed and uniformly dissolved to prepare a lotion.

Example 2 Preparation of emulsion (% by weight) (a) Beeswax 0.5 (b) Vaseline 2.0 (c) Squalane 8.0 (d) Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8 (e) Polyoxyethylene Oleyl ether (2OE.O.) 1.2 (f) Octyl p-methoxycinnamate 1.0 (g) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0 (h) Methylcellulose 0.2 (i) Potassium hydroxide 0. 1 (j) Purified water Remainder (k) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (l) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 1.0 (m) Ethanol 7.0 Total 100.0 First, the above (a)- The component (f) was dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C. On the other hand, the components (g) to (k) are dissolved by heating, kept at 80 ° C., added to the above components (a) to (f), emulsified, cooled to 50 ° C. while stirring, and then cooled to 50 ° C. An emulsion was prepared by adding the component (m) obtained by dissolving the component (l) at a temperature of 40 ° C and cooling to 40 ° C.

Example 3 Preparation of Cosmetic Claims (% by Weight) (a) Beeswax 2.0 (b) Stearyl alcohol 5.0 (c) Stearic acid 8.0 (d) Squalane 10.0 (e) Self-emulsifying Type glyceryl monostearate 3.0 (f) polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (2OE.O.) 1.0 (g) 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 1.0 (h) 1,3-butylene glycol 5. 0 (i) Potassium hydroxide 0.3 (j) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (k) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 1.0 (l) Purified water Remainder 100.0 First, the above (a) The components (1) to (f) were dissolved by heating and maintained at 80 ° C. On the other hand, the components (g) to (l) are heated and dissolved and kept at 80 ° C., and then added to the components (a) to (f) to emulsify the mixture. A cream for use was prepared.

Example 4 Preparation of Packing Agent (wt%) (a) Octyl p-methoxycinnamate 0.5 (b) Vinyl acetate resin emulsion 15.0 (c) Polyvinyl alcohol 10.0 (d) Olive oil 0 (e) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 1.0 (f) Glycerin 5.0 (g) Titanium oxide 8.0 (h) Kaolin 7.0 (i) Ethanol 8.0 (j) Perfume (k) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (l) purified water remaining total 100.0 First, the above components (a) to (l) are mixed, well stirred, dispersed, and homogenized to obtain a pack agent. Prepared.

Each of the cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 4 was
Even when left at a temperature of 40 ° C. for 3 months, generation of coloring, precipitation, and the like was not observed, and the compounded L-ascorbic acid derivative was stable.

Example 5 Preparation of an emulsion In Example 2, the amount of L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid was changed from 1.0% by weight to 2.0% by weight, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate 1.0% An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the weight% was changed to 5.0 weight% of 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Emulsion In Example 2, 1.0% by weight of octyl p-methoxycinnamate was used without using L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid and 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the amount was changed to 5.0% by weight.

Comparative Example 2 Preparation of an emulsion In Example 2, the amount of L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid was changed from 1.0% by weight to 2.0% by weight, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate was not used. Except for this, an emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2.

Comparative Example 3 Preparation of Emulsion An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that neither L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid nor octyl p-methoxycinnamate was used. did.

Test Example 1 With respect to the emulsions prepared in Example 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3,
The following tests were performed to evaluate skin irritation and whitening effect. Table 1 shows the results.

<Usage Test> Twenty women aged 30 to 50 were used as panelists, and the test emulsion was applied to the face twice a day for three months, twice a day in the morning and night, and the skin was irritated according to the following criteria. And the whitening effect was evaluated. (1) Evaluation criteria for skin irritation ・ Effective: No irritation.・ Slightly effective: Slightly weak but stimulating.・ Invalid: Irritation is felt. (2) Whitening effect evaluation criteria-Effective: spots and freckles became less noticeable.・ Slightly effective: spots and freckles are less noticeable. -Invalid: No change.

Test Example 2 For the emulsions prepared in Example 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3,
The following test was performed to evaluate skin color lightness recovery. Table 1 shows the results.

<Skin color lightness recovery test> Ten women aged 30 to 50 years were panelists, and UV-B was applied to the upper arm skin.
The region was irradiated with ultraviolet rays (wavelength 320 to 290 nm) twice as much as the minimum erythema dose. Thereafter, the test emulsion was applied twice a day to each of the irradiated sites, and the skin color after two months was measured for the L value with a Minolta colorimeter CR-300. The degree of recovery from sunburn was determined by measuring the L value indicating the lightness. In addition, each value has shown the difference with the L value of the comparative example 3.

[0049]

[Table 1]

As is evident from Table 1, the emulsion of Example 5 was effective in alleviating the irritating feeling of the skin and also exhibited a high whitening effect. Moreover, the L value of the emulsion of Example 5 was about 3.5 higher than that of Comparative Example 3, and it was clear that the skin color was white even visually.

[0051]

Industrial Applicability The cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in alleviating skin irritation when an ultraviolet absorber is incorporated, and can be widely applied for preventing and improving blackening due to sunburn, spots and freckles. it can. Further, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, the whitening effect is excellent, and the storage stability and skin safety are high, so that it can be used with confidence.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (A) General formula (I) (In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.) A cosmetic comprising an L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the formula (B) and an ultraviolet absorber (B). 2. The L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) is a compound of the formula (I) wherein R is an ethyl-3-L-O-.
The cosmetic according to claim 1, which is ethyl ascorbic acid. 3. The ultraviolet absorber of the component (B) is octyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and 4-methoxy-4'-te.
The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic is at least one selected from rt-butyldibenzoylmethane. 4. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content ratio of the component (A) to the component (B) is in the range of 1:50 to 50: 1 by weight.