JPH11199426A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a cosmetic having an excellent bleaching effect and an excellent anti-inflammatory effect for the skin, skin roughness and having excellent storage stability and highly safe to the skin by adding a specific L-ascorbic acid derivative and a specified anti-inflammatory agent. SOLUTION: This cosmetic contains (A) 0.01-10.0 wt.% of an L-ascorbic acid derivative of the formula (R is a 1-22C alkyl) (for example, L-3- Oethylascorbic acid), (B) 0.01-5.0 wt.% of an anti-inflammatory agent in a component A/component B weight ratio of 1:10 to 10:1, and, if necessary, (C) a moisturizing agent, an animal or plant extract, a polyhydric alcohol, a lower alcohol, a surfactant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an antiseptic microcide, a perfume, a thickening agent, an antioxidizing agent, a chelating agent, a pH-adjusting agent, a pigment, a UV light absorbent, a UV light- scattering agent, vitamins, etc. The component B is preferably glycyrrhetic acid (derivative) (for example, β-glycyrrhetic acid), etc.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetics, and more particularly to cosmetics, which have excellent whitening and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, suppress rough skin, and have excellent storage stability and skin safety. The present invention relates to skin cosmetics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, various biological mechanisms have been elucidated with the progress of dermatology. For example, when skin tissue is subjected to an external stimulus such as ultraviolet light, arachidonic acid is produced in the tissue, and leukotrienes and prostaglandins, which are metabolites thereof, are produced. These metabolites damage skin tissues such as rough skin. Furthermore, the above-mentioned leukotrienes and prostaglandins and histamine released from mast cells during inflammation act on melanocytes, promoting their activity, causing pigmentation at sites of inflammation, causing spots and darkening. I have.

Hitherto, glycyrrhetinic acid and its derivatives (hereinafter, sometimes referred to as glycyrrhetins), which are anti-inflammatory agents, have been used to prevent rough skin caused by ultraviolet rays or the like. This glycyrrhetin,
It has the effect of suppressing the production of arachidonic acid generated in skin tissue in response to external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, and as a result, the production of metabolites of arachidonic acid, leukotrienes and prostaglandins, is suppressed. Therefore, it is intended to prevent skin tissue damage caused by those metabolites. However, glycyrrhetins alone have a problem that a sufficient effect cannot be expected in preventing spots and darkness due to pigmentation after rough skin caused by ultraviolet rays or the like.

Conventionally, in order to improve such a problem,
L-ascorbic acid, glutathione, colloidal sulfur and the like have been used. However, since L-ascorbic acid itself is easily oxidized, it is difficult to sufficiently exert its effect, and the cosmetics containing the same have disadvantages such as discoloration and odor over time. In addition, glutathione and colloidal sulfur have a problem in peculiar odor and stability,
There was a hindrance to commercialization.

[0005] On the other hand, steroids exhibit a sufficient anti-inflammatory effect, but after repeated use, a rebound phenomenon may occur, which may lead to an undesirable situation, and has a serious problem in stability.

By the way, when a conventionally known L-ascorbic acid derivative is blended into a cosmetic, the storage stability is insufficient, and the effect of suppressing inflammation and whitening by ultraviolet rays is often not sufficiently exhibited. In addition, glycyrrhetins have an excellent anti-inflammatory effect, but have a problem such as an insufficient whitening effect.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Under such circumstances, the present invention has an excellent whitening effect and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, suppresses rough skin, and provides storage stability and skin safety. It is an object of the present invention to provide a skin cosmetic having excellent properties.

[0008]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to develop a skin cosmetic having the above-mentioned preferable properties. As a result, a combination of an L-ascorbic acid derivative and an anti-inflammatory agent has been developed. By blending into the ingredients, the synergistic effect exerts an effect that could not be obtained by the conventional single action, suppresses pigmentation based on rough skin caused by ultraviolet rays etc., and blackens the skin due to sunburn The present inventors have found that cosmetics having good storage stability as well as excellent storage stability can be obtained in addition to preventing aging, spots, and freckles, and the present invention has been completed based on this finding.

That is, the present invention relates to (A) a compound represented by the general formula (I)

Embedded image (Wherein R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms) and a cosmetic comprising (B) an anti-inflammatory agent. is there.

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the cosmetic of the present invention,
As the component (A), general formula (I)

Embedded image (In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.) An L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the following formula is used.

The alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R in the general formula (I) may be linear, branched, or cyclic, and examples thereof include a methyl group, an ethyl group, and an n group. -Propyl group, isopropyl group, n-butyl group,
Isobutyl group, sec-butyl group, tert-butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, octyl group, decyl group,
Dodecyl group, tetradecyl group, hexadecyl group, octadecyl group, behenyl group, cyclopropyl group, cyclobutyl group, cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, cyclooctyl group and the like.

The L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the general formula (I) is a known compound.
It can be easily produced according to the method described in JP-A-134055.

This L-ascorbic acid derivative has a radical scavenging ability and is used as an antioxidant. Also, L-
This is advantageous in that it has superior stability as compared with ascorbic acid and conventional L-ascorbic acid derivatives.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, as the component (A), one kind of the L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the above general formula (I) may be used, or two or more kinds may be used in combination. However, from the viewpoint of effect and stability,
Is an ethyl group, and L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid is preferred.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, an anti-inflammatory agent is used as the component (B). Glycyrrhetinic acid and its derivatives are suitable as the anti-inflammatory agent. Here, as the glycyrrhetinic acid derivative, for example, trisodium glycyrrhetinate, dipotassium glycyrrhetinate,
Examples include, but are not limited to, disodium glycyrrhetinate, monoammonium glycyrrhetinate, monoammonium α-glycyrrhetinate, β-glycyrrhetinic acid, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, pyridoxine glycyrrhetinate, and the like.

In the present invention, the anti-inflammatory component (B) may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the content ratio of the L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) and the anti-inflammatory agent of the component (B) is in the range of 1:10 to 10: 1 by weight. This is very important. If this ratio deviates from the above range, the synergistic effect is not sufficiently exhibited, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. In order to achieve a synergistic effect sufficiently and to obtain a cosmetic composition having a high level of whitening effect, anti-inflammatory effect, safety against skin and storage stability, the ratio of the components (A) and (B) is as follows: The weight ratio is preferably in the range of 1: 8 to 8: 1, and particularly preferably in the range of 1: 5 to 5: 1.

The content of the L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) in the cosmetic of the present invention is appropriately selected according to the form of the cosmetic, but generally, it is 0 based on the total amount of the cosmetic. It is selected in the range of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the whitening effect may not be sufficiently exerted. If the amount is more than 10.0% by weight, no improvement in the effect can be recognized for the amount. Become. In consideration of the whitening effect and the economical efficiency, the content of the L-ascorbic acid derivative is particularly preferably from 0.1 to
A range of 5.0% by weight is preferred.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the above (B)
The content of the component anti-inflammatory agent is appropriately selected according to the form of the cosmetic. However, when glycyrrhetinic acid or a derivative thereof is used as the anti-inflammatory agent, the content is generally 0 based on the total amount of the cosmetic. 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the anti-inflammatory effect may not be sufficiently exerted. If the amount exceeds 5.0% by weight, no improvement in the effect is recognized for the amount, and it is economically disadvantageous. Becomes Considering the anti-inflammatory effect and the economical efficiency, the content of the glycyrrhetinic acid and its derivatives is particularly preferably 0.1%.
A range of 1 to 2.0% by weight is preferred.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, various components conventionally used in skin cosmetics, such as humectants, animal and plant extracts, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, Activator, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, antiseptic, antiseptic, perfume, thickener, antioxidant, chelating agent, pH adjuster, pigment, ultraviolet absorber, ultraviolet scattering agent,
Vitamins, amino acids, other whitening agents, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, water and the like can be included.

Examples of the humectant include polyethers such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and sorbitol, and NMF (natural humectant). Specific examples include amino acids, urea, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and proteins such as collagen and elastin.

Examples of the oil component include liquid oils such as castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil and camellia oil, solid oils such as hardened castor oil, waxes such as lanolin, spermaceti, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, squalane, Examples include hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, liquid paraffin, sericin, and paraffin.

Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, polyglycerin, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, and the like. Are glucose, maltose, mannose, lactose, D-glucuronic acid, uronic acid, saccharose, D-mannitol, D-sorbitol, sorbitan, glucolactone, cellulose, starch, arbutin, monosaccharides such as glucose phosphate, and polysaccharides And their derivatives. Examples of the lower alcohol include ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol.

As the surfactant, for example, a polyoxyethylene (POE) sorbitan monooleate or the like
E sorbitan esters, sorbitan esters such as sorbitan monooleate, POE-glycerin fatty acid esters such as POE-glyceryl monooleate, glycerin fatty acid esters such as glycerin monooleate,
POE-fatty acid esters such as POE-monooleate; POE-alkyl ethers such as POE-lauryl ether; PEs such as POE-octyldodecyl ether;
OE-branched alkyl ethers, POE-alkyl phenyl ethers such as POE-nonylphenyl ether, glycerol esters such as glycerol monoisostearate, POE-glycerol esters such as POE-glycerol monoisostearate, diglyceryl monostearate and the like. Nonionic surfactants such as polyglycerin fatty acid esters, fatty acid soaps such as sodium and potassium salts of higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, higher alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, POE-lauryl sulfate triethanolamine, etc. Alkyl ether sulfates, N-acyl sarcosine salts such as sodium lauroyl sarcosine, and higher fatty acid amide sulfo such as N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurine sodium. Acid salts, anionic surfactants such as sodium alkylbenzenesulfonate such as sodium linear dodecylbenzenesulfonate, N-acyl glutamates such as disodium N-stearoylglutamate, alkylamine salts, POE-alkylamine salts, polyamine fatty acids Derivatives, alkylpyridinium salts, alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkylisoquinolinium salts,
Cationic surfactants such as dialkyl morphonium salts and benzethonium chloride, betaines, imidazolines,
Examples include amphoteric surfactants such as amine oxides.

Examples of the emulsifier include glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, and soybean phospholipid.
Examples of the flavor include plant natural flavors such as incense, animal natural flavors, and synthetic flavors.

Examples of the antiseptic / antibacterial agent include methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate, dehydroacetic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and benzalkonium chloride. For example, natural polymer substances such as sodium alginate, xanthan gum, aluminum silicate, malomelo seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, semi-synthetic polymer substances such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, soluble starch, cationized cellulose, carboxyvinyl Examples of the polymer include synthetic polymers such as polymers and polyvinyl alcohol.

As the antioxidant, for example, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole,
As propyl gallate, ascorbic acid, etc., as chelating agents, for example, disodium edetate, ethanehydroxydiphosphate, pyrophosphate, hexametaphosphate, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, etc., as a pH adjuster, Examples include sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, boric acid, borax, sodium hydrogen phosphate and the like.

Further, as the ultraviolet absorber, for example, 2
-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoate, ethylhexyl p-
Methoxy cinnamate and the like, as an ultraviolet scattering agent,
For example, titanium oxide, kaolin, talc and the like, and vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin K, vitamin P, vitamin U, carnitine, ferulic acid, α- Oryzanol, α-riboic acid, orotic acid and derivatives thereof include amino acids such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, cystine, cysteine, methionine, proline, and hydroxy. Examples include proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, arginine, histidine, lysine and derivatives thereof.

Other whitening agents include, for example, arbutin,
Kojic acid, glabridine, placenta extract, ellagic acid and the like can be mentioned.

The cosmetic of the present invention comprises the component (A) L-
By appropriately mixing the ascorbic acid derivative, the anti-inflammatory agent of the component (B) and these optional components according to a known method, lotion, emulsion, cream, pack, powder, spray, ointment, dispersion, washing It can be used as various skin product forms such as ingredients.

For example, in the case of an emulsion, it can be prepared by a usual method in which an oil phase and an aqueous phase, each of which is dissolved by heating, are mixed, emulsified and dispersed, and cooled.

[0032]

Next, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example 1 Preparation of lotion (% by weight) (a) Glycyrrhetinic acid 1.0 (b) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 2.0 (c) Glycerin 5.0 (d) Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan monolaurate (2OE.O.) 1.0 (e) Ethanol 6.0 (f) Perfume proper amount (g) Preservative / antioxidant proper amount (h) Purified water Remainder 100.0 Above (a)- (h) A lotion was prepared by mixing and uniformly dissolving the components.

Example 2 Preparation of emulsion (% by weight) (a) Beeswax 0.5 (b) Vaseline 2.0 (c) Squalane 8.0 (d) Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8 (e) Polyoxyethylene Oleyl ether (2OE.O.) 1.2 (f) β-glycyrrhetinic acid 0.5 (g) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0 (h) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 (i) Potassium hydroxide 0. 1 (j) Purified water Remainder (k) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (l) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 2.0 (m) Ethanol 7.0 Total 100.0 First, the above (a)- The component (e) was dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C. On the other hand, the components (g) to (l) are dissolved by heating, kept at 80 ° C., added to the components (a) to (e), emulsified, and cooled while stirring to 50 ° C. C. by adding (f) and (m) components and cooling to 40 ° C.
An emulsion was prepared.

Example 3 Preparation of cosmetic claim (% by weight) (a) Beeswax 2.0 (b) Stearyl alcohol 5.0 (c) Stearic acid 8.0 (d) Squalane 10.0 (e) Self-emulsifying Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 (f) Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (2OE.O.) 1.0 (g) Glycyrrhetinic acid 1.0 (h) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 (i) Hydroxide Potassium 0.3 (j) Preservative / antioxidant appropriate amount (k) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 1.0 (l) Purified water Remainder 100.0 First, the above components (a) to (f) Was heated and dissolved, and kept at 80 ° C. On the other hand, the components (g) to (l) are heated and dissolved and kept at 80 ° C., and then added to the components (a) to (f) to emulsify the mixture. A cream for use was prepared.

Example 4 Preparation of Packing Agent (% by Weight) (a) Dipotassium glycyrrhetinate 1.0 (b) Vinyl acetate resin emulsion 15.0 (c) Polyvinyl alcohol 10.0 (d) Olive oil 3.0 ( e) L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid 2.0 (f) Glycerin 5.0 (g) Titanium oxide 8.0 (h) Kaolin 7.0 (i) Ethanol 8.0 (j) Fragrance Appropriate amount (k Preservative / Antioxidant Appropriate amount (l) Purified water Remainder 100.0 First, the above components (a) to (l) were mixed, well stirred, dispersed, and homogenized to prepare a pack. . Even when the cosmetics prepared in Examples 1 to 4 were left at a temperature of 40 ° C. for 3 months, generation of coloring, precipitation, and the like was not observed, and the compounded L-ascorbic acid derivative was stable.

Example 5 Preparation of emulsion In Example 2, the amount of β-glycyrrhetinic acid was 0.5
An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the weight% was changed to 1.0% by weight.

Comparative Example 1 Preparation of Emulsion An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that β-glycyrrhetinic acid was not used.

Comparative Example 2 Preparation of Emulsion In Example 2, L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid was not used and the amount of β-glycyrrhetinic acid was 0.5
An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the weight% was changed to 1.0% by weight.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of Emulsion In Example 2, 2.0% by weight of L-ascorbic acid disulfuric acid, which is well known as a stable whitening ingredient, is replaced by 2.0% by weight of L-3-O-ethylascorbic acid. And β
-An emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the amount of glycyrrhetinic acid was changed from 0.5% by weight to 1.0% by weight.

Test Example The emulsions prepared in Example 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3
The following tests were performed to evaluate the whitening effect and the effect of improving skin roughness. Table 1 shows the results. <Usage test> Twenty women aged 30 to 50 were used as panelists, and the test emulsion was applied to the face twice a day for three months after washing the face twice a day in the morning and evening. Was evaluated. (1) Whitening effect evaluation criteria-Effective: spots and freckles became less noticeable.・ Slightly effective: spots and freckles are less noticeable. -Invalid: No change. (2) Evaluation criteria for improving skin roughness ・ Effective: Skin roughness and bulkiness are eliminated. -Slightly effective: less rough skin and less bulk. -Invalid: No change.

[0042]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the emulsion of Example 5 was effective for the skin whitening effect and the skin roughness improving effect.

[0044]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The skin cosmetic of the present invention suppresses pigmentation due to rough skin caused by ultraviolet rays, prevents blackening of the skin due to sunburn, spots, freckles, and storage stability. It is also excellent in skin safety and can be used with confidence.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (A) General formula (I) (Wherein, R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms). A cosmetic comprising an L-ascorbic acid derivative represented by the formula (B) and an anti-inflammatory agent (B). 2. The L-ascorbic acid derivative of the component (A) is a compound of the formula (I) wherein R is an ethyl-3-L-O-.
The cosmetic according to claim 1, which is ethyl ascorbic acid. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the anti-inflammatory component (B) is at least one selected from glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives thereof. 4. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content ratio of the component (A) to the component (B) is in the range of 1:10 to 10: 1 by weight.