JPH11269733A - Bulky polyester mixed yarn and woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] (with correction) [Problem] To provide a low-cost bulky polyester woven / knitted fabric which is soft, swelling, powerful, excellent in color development and deep color. SOLUTION: In a mixed yarn comprising at least two kinds of multifilament groups having a difference in yarn foot, one of the multifilament groups contains 80 mol% or more of terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof as a main acid component, 0.75 to 1.2 mol% of an alkali metal sulfoisophthalate and / or sulfoterephthalic acid (X);
5.0 mol% of a saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 methylene groups and 80 mol% or more of a glycol selected from ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component, and a polyester formed therefrom. Molecular weight of 500 to 20 to be 0.5 to 2.0% by weight
A polyalkylene glycol component (PAG) of No. 00, wherein the X component and the PAG component satisfy predetermined conditions.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a bulky polyester mixed fiber yarn which is soft, swelling, high in strength, excellent in weight loss and dyeability, and a woven fabric using the yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fibers are easier to handle and cheaper than other synthetic fibers, and have moderate tension and waist, so that garments made from these fibers have excellent wearing durability. I have. For this reason, polyester fibers have an extremely wide range of uses for clothing. However, polyester fibers have a drawback that they have a slimy feeling due to the smooth fiber surface, and are inferior in coloring properties and inferior hygroscopicity.

[0003] For the above reasons, fabrics made from polyester fibers do not have the soft, dry feel and excellent color developability of fabrics made of silk or cotton.

Hitherto, various methods have been proposed for improving the feel and color development of polyester. As a method for improving the color developing property, 5-
A method of modifying a cationic dye dyeable polyester by copolymerizing a compound having an acidic group such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (Japanese Patent Publication No. 34-10497).
No.) is well known.

However, in this method, it is necessary to copolymerize a large amount of a compound containing a metal sulfonate group in order to obtain a practical level of dyeability. It becomes difficult to increase the degree of polymerization of the copolymerized polyester due to the thickening action. Therefore, when melt-polymerized into a polymer having a degree of polymerization capable of exhibiting sufficient strength as a fiber and spinning is attempted, the melt viscosity becomes too high, making polymerization and spinning difficult.

For this reason, in order to carry out polymerization and spinning by a usual method, it is necessary to reduce the melt viscosity to a region where polymerization and spinning are possible, and as a result, the degree of polymerization of the polymer is reduced, and the obtained yarn is The strength is low and the application is limited.

In order to solve the above problems, a method of reducing the content of a compound containing a metal sulfonate group and copolymerizing an acidic component such as isophthalic acid or adipic acid in order to compensate for a decrease in dyeability (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. H10-163,086). (57-66119)
However, there is a problem that the melting point of the obtained polyester is remarkably lowered and the heat resistance of the product is insufficient.

It has also been found that the introduction of an ionic group such as a metal sulfonate group-containing compound not only increases the viscosity of the polymer due to the aggregation of the ionic groups, but also significantly increases the flow activation energy and reduces the spinnability. ing.
For this reason, it is difficult to directly spin-draw a cationic dye-dyeable deformed yarn and an ultrafine yarn, and such a special cross section or an ultrafine yarn is generally produced by composite spinning with a different elution component.

A method for producing a cationic polyester dyeable splittable polyester fiber by composite spinning is disclosed in JP-A-6-30.
These methods are disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6734/1994 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-306734. However, according to these methods, elution with an aqueous alkali solution and division treatment are required, and thus there is a problem in cost.

For the above reasons, if an attempt is made to provide a product that meets the needs of the consumer at a low price, the development of a variant yarn brand or an ultra-fine thread brand is restricted, so that a fabric that meets the consumer needs cannot be provided.

On the other hand, as a method for imparting a soft and swelling texture, a different shrinkage mixed yarn obtained by mixing two types of filaments having different shrinkage rates or a self-extended mixed yarn obtained by mixing a self-extended yarn and a high shrinkage yarn. Is known. Among them, the self-extended mixed fiber has a good reputation from consumers in that it can give a moderate swelling and thus gives a soft touch like silk.

However, when the self-extended mixed yarn is dyed, the core yarn is lightly dyed compared to the sheath yarn due to the difference in fiber microstructure between the self-extended yarn as the sheath yarn and the high shrinkage yarn as the core yarn. The exposed part looks whitish. Therefore, there is a problem that when fabric is used, so-called irritation occurs and a satisfactory product cannot be obtained.

As a means for solving such a problem, there is known a method of copolymerizing a metal sulfonate compound such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (Japanese Patent Publication No. 47570/1994), but for the same reason as described above, There is a problem that products are limited.

[0014]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, has a soft tactile sensation, is excellent in strength, and has high color development and levelness. An object of the present invention is to provide a yarn and a woven fabric using the yarn efficiently and inexpensively.

[0015]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies in order to achieve the above object, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, in the first invention relating to the mixed fiber, in the mixed fiber consisting of two types of multifilaments having a difference in yarn foot, at least one of the multifilaments contains 80 mol% or more of terephthalic acid as a main acid component. An acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, 0.75 to 1.2 mol% of a dicarboxylic acid composed of an alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and / or an alkali metal sulfoterephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, and 0 to 5.0 mol; % Of a saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 methylene groups and 80 mol% or more of a glycol selected from ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component, and 0.5 to 0.5% based on the resulting polyester. A polyalkylene glycol component having a molecular weight of 500 to 2,000 to be 2.0% by weight, One formula (1) is a bulky polyester combined filament yarn characterized by comprising the modified polyester which satisfies. 0.4 ≦ X / PAG ≦ 1.2 (1) (where X (mol%) is the content of alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and / or alkali metal sulfoterephthalic acid, and PAG (weight%) is the polyalkylene glycol component. Specifically, the mixed yarns are at least 10% of each other.
The bulky polyester-based mixed yarn described above, comprising two types of polyester multifilament groups having the following yarn length difference. A second aspect of the present invention relating to a mixed-fiber woven fabric is a bulky polyester woven fabric which uses the bulky polyester-based mixed yarn described above for a warp and / or a weft and satisfies the following formula (2). H / L ≧ 0.9 (2) (where H is the maximum thickness (cm) of the fabric in the cross section of the fabric, L
Represents the reciprocal of the weft density (lines / cm). Further, the third invention according to the mixed fiber woven or knitted fabric is characterized in that a weight loss rate at the time of alkali weight reduction using at least a part of the bulky polyester-based mixed fiber satisfies the following formula (3). Woven knitted fabric having a dye exhaustion rate of 8 when dyed with a disperse dye at 130 ° C.
The bulky polyester fabric described above, which is 5% or more, and the bulky polyester fabric described above, which has a tear strength of 600 g or more. dN / dt ≦ 0.5 (3) (wherein N represents the weight loss rate (%) and t represents the time (minute)).

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, the two kinds of multifilaments forming the mixed fiber preferably have a yarn length difference of at least 10% or more, and if it is less than 10%, it cannot be said that the yarn has sufficient swelling and a soft touch cannot be obtained. . Preferably 10% to 25
%. Conversely, if it exceeds 25%, snags tend to occur, which is not preferable as a product.

[0017] At least one of the multifilaments forming the mixed fiber in the present invention contains 0.75 to 1.2 mol% of a dicarboxylic acid component composed of 5-alkalisulfoisophthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof. When the amount is less than 0.75 mol%, not only does the dyeing seat of the cationic dye become insufficient, so that the dyeing property at the time of dyeing the cationic dye is lowered, but also the molecular structure becomes dense, so that the dye is dyed even at the time of dyeing the disperse dye. This is not preferable because the amorphous region into which the particles can enter is reduced and the dyeability is reduced. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.2 mol%, a sufficient strength cannot be obtained with a polymerization degree having a melt viscosity that allows spinning, which is not preferable.

Further, it is necessary that a saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 methylene groups is contained in an amount of 0 to 5.0 mol%. When the number of methylene groups is less than 4, not only does the thermal stability of the polymer decrease, but also it is necessary to copolymerize a large amount to obtain a satisfactory easy dyeing effect.
As a result, the melting point decreases and the heat resistance of the product decreases. Conversely, if it exceeds 8, the compatibility with polyester is lowered, which is not preferable. If the content of the saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid exceeds 5.0 mol%, the melting point of the polymer is remarkably reduced, and the heat resistance of the product is undesirably reduced. More preferably, it is 4.0 mol% or less.

Further, the produced polyester has a molecular weight of 5
It is preferable to contain 0.5 to 2.0% by weight of a glycol component of 00 to 2000, and if the molecular weight is less than 500, it is necessary to increase the addition amount in order to enhance the dyeing properties, and as a result, the melting point is lowered. Not only is this undesirable, but it is not preferred, and because of the low boiling point of the glycol, it scatters out of the system during the polycondensation reaction, making it difficult to copolymerize a certain amount. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2,000, the light resistance is lowered, and it is not preferable for practical use. More preferably, it is 700 to 1500.

Further, it is necessary that the above-mentioned formula (1), which is the content ratio of 5-sodium metal sulfoisophthalic acid to polyalkylene glycol, is satisfied, and if the above-mentioned formula (1) is less than 0.4, 5 -The sodium metal sulfoisophthalic acid component is extremely low, and satisfactory dyeability cannot be obtained. Conversely, if it exceeds 1.2, an increase in the flow activation energy due to an increase in the ionic group cannot be suppressed, and the spinnability deteriorates. More preferably, it is 0.7 to 1.0.

The woven fabric in the present invention must satisfy the formula (2). When H / L <0.9, the swelling feeling is poor and silky texture is not obtained. Preferably, 1 ≦ H / L ≦ 2
It is. If it exceeds 2, the feeling of fluttering will be large and snags will easily occur, which is not preferable.

The rate of weight loss of the woven or knitted fabric in the present invention must satisfy the following formula (3). Otherwise, the weight loss balance becomes poor when blended with ordinary polyester containing no copolymer component, resulting in a poor product. Not preferred. More preferably, dN / dt ≦ 0.45. dN / dt ≦ 0.5 (3) (wherein, N (%) represents a weight loss rate, and t (minute) represents time).

Further, the polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a dye exhaustion of 85% or more when dyed at 130 ° C. with a disperse dye. Lack of performance. Preferably 9
0% or more.

Further, the tear strength of the bulky polyester woven or knitted fabric in the present invention needs to be 600 g or more, and if it is less than 600 g, the product durability is lacking. More preferably, it is 650 g or more.

The bulky polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. to 290 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1000 m.
Melt spinning in the range of 6000 m / min to 6000 m / min, and if necessary, drawing by a preheating roller at 60 ° C to 90 ° C. % To 90% at the same time as heat-relaxation, and simultaneously mixed with a high-shrink yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% to 30% at 160 ° C to form a different shrinkage mixed yarn. It can be obtained by processing.

Further, the multifilament melt-spun under the above conditions is heated at 70.degree.
Different shrinkage mixed yarns obtained by mixing low shrinkage yarns and high shrinkage yarns drawn through a hot plate at 0 ° C to 180 ° C can also be used.

Even if these polyester fibers contain functional compounds such as flame retardancy and antistatic properties depending on the use, dulling agents, inorganic particles and various functional fine particles, fluorescent whitening agents, pigments And the like may be included.

[0028]

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(Yarn length difference) Extract mixed yarn from fabric 30
Cut to 0mm length, high shrink yarn denier x 0.1g /
Measure the thread length (SL) under the load of d.
In this state, the core yarn is cut while leaving the slack sheath yarn, and a load of 0.1 g / d of denier of the sheath yarn is applied to measure the yarn length (LL) again. Ask. Yarn length difference (%) = {(LL-SL) / SL} x 100

(Determination of the Amounts of Glycol Component and Metal Sulfonic Acid Component in Polymer) The glycol component is quantified by a method of quantifying the amount of H atoms by NMR, and the alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid or alkali metal terephthalic acid component is fluorescent X-ray. Quantified by line.

(Maximum thickness of fabric (H)) Observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) at an accelerating voltage of 5 kV,
Ten cross-section photographs of the cloth were taken at double magnification, and the average value of the measured values of the maximum height (H) of the cloth was defined as H.

(Reciprocal of Weft Density (L)) The density of the weft was measured by a densimeter, and the reciprocal thereof was defined as L.

(Alkali weight loss rate) Equipment used: mini color dyeing machine Alkaline concentration: aqueous sodium hydroxide 30 g / liter Weight loss start temperature: 60 ° C Temperature rise rate: 2 ° C / min Final temperature: 100 ° C Final temperature holding time: 60 Bath ratio: 1:50 Weight loss rate N (%) = (NA-NB) / NB × 100 NA: Sample weight after weight loss NB: Sample weight before weight loss

(Dye exhaustion rate) Equipment used: Mini-color dyeing machine Dye used: Dianix Black BG-FS200 (disperse dye; manufactured by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) Concentration: 15.0% owf Auxiliary agent: Disper TL (1) 0.0 g / liter) 10% acetic acid (2 ml / liter) 10% sodium acetate (0.6 g / liter) Temperature: 130 ° C. Time: 60 minutes Bath ratio: 1:50 Evaluated by dye exhaustion of dyeing under the above conditions did. The dye exhaustion was measured using a spectrophotometer (U3210; manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.), and the difference in absorbance before and after dyeing of the dye bath was measured, and the difference was determined by the following equation. Dye exhaustion rate (%) = {(DB−DA) / DB} × 100 DA: Absorbance at maximum absorption wavelength after dyeing of dye bath solution DB: Absorbance at maximum absorption wavelength before dyeing of dye bath solution

(Tear Strength of Cloth) Measurement was carried out in accordance with JIS-L1096.

(Evaluation of Hand) The touch and levelness of the product were judged by three dyeing technicians who had long experience in evaluating the hand and dyeability of the polyester fabric.

EXAMPLE 1 A modified polyester containing 1.0 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component and 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1000 as a glycol component was spun at 272 ° C. The melt-spun yarn was drawn at a take-up speed of 1500 m / min, and the obtained unstretched yarn was passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C. and stretched 2.8 times to obtain a high-shrinkage polyester filament of 30 denier and 18 filaments.

Next, a polyester composition having the same component ratio as the polyester composition adjusted at the time of spinning of the obtained highly shrinkable polyester filament was mixed at a spinning temperature of 275.
It was melt-spun at a take-off speed of 2800 m / min. To obtain an undrawn polyester filament of 32 denier and 18 filaments. Next, the obtained undrawn polyester filament was drawn 1.6 times at 80 ° C. using only a hot roller to obtain a drawn polyester filament of 20 denier and 18 filaments. The stretched polyester filament is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a processing speed of 430 m / min. At an overfeed rate of 84% using a non-contact type heater heated to 210 ° C., and then mixed with the high shrinkage polyester filament according to a known method. did. As a result, a mixed fiber consisting of a highly shrinkable polyester filament and a self-extensible polyester filament was obtained.

Table 1 shows the composition of the polymer used, Table 2 shows the production conditions of the obtained highly shrinkable and self-extensible polyester filaments, and Table 3 shows the processing conditions and fabric properties.

The obtained mixed yarn was given an S twist of 600 turns / m, and was used as a warp and a weft. These were alternately driven and the warp density was 153 / inch and the weft density was 90.
A book / inch plain-textile fabric was prepared according to a known method. After ordinary scouring, dry heat relaxation and presetting, the obtained woven fabric was treated with a 60 g / l caustic soda solution to obtain a woven fabric.
Weight percent reduction processing was performed. Next, the obtained plain fabric was washed with water and dried. Subsequently, using a mini-color dyeing machine, a black disperse dye (Dianix Black BG-FS (200) having a bath ratio of 1:50 and a dye concentration of 15% owf was used.
%)) At 130 ° C. for 60 minutes. The dyed plain fabric is final set at 160 ° C (dry heat treatment).
To obtain the final plain fabric (finished fabric). Table 3 shows the evaluation results of the obtained fabric.

Example 2 High Density Polyester Filament of 30 Denier and 48 Filaments and Spinning Speed of 26
30 denier 48 at 00 m / min, stretching ratio 1.7 times
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a filament self-extending polyester filament was obtained.

Example 3 0.85 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component, 3.0 mol% of sebacic acid, and a molecular weight of 10 as a glycol component
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the modified polyester containing 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol was used for both the high-shrinkable polyester filament and the self-extensible polyester filament.

Example 4 Modified polyester containing 1.0 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component and 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 as a glycol component was used as a high shrink polyester filament. Ordinary polyethylene terephthalate consisting only of terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol is used for the self-extensible polyester filament, the spinning speed is 3000 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7, the processing speed during the relaxation heat treatment is 540 m / min, and the heater temperature is To 190
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the temperature and the overfeed rate were 43.5%.

Example 5 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the overfeed ratio was set to 50% during the processing of the self-extensible polyester filament. Although excellent in levelness, it lacked a soft feeling.

(Comparative Example 1) Normal polyethylene terephthalate was used for a high shrinkage polyester filament,
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the stretching ratio was 2.9. Although it had a soft texture, it lacked levelness.

(Comparative Example 2) The procedure was carried out except that a modified polyester containing 0.7 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component and 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 as a glycol component was used. A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. It was soft and swelling but lacked level dyeing.

Comparative Example 3 A modified polyester containing 2.0 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component and 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 as a glycol component was used.
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a mixed yarn of a high-shrinkage polyester filament of 48 denier filaments and a self-extensible polyester filament of 30 denier 48 filaments was produced. Although excellent in levelness, the texture and tear strength were slightly inferior. In addition, there was a problem with the yarn operability.

Comparative Example 4 0.85 mol% of dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component, 6.0 mol% of sebacic acid, and a molecular weight of 10 as a glycol component
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a modified polyester containing 1.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol of No. 00 was used. Although excellent in levelness, the texture was lacking.

Comparative Example 5 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a modified polyester containing 0.3% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 as a glycol component was used. Although it has a soft texture,
The leveling properties were poor.

Comparative Example 6 A fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a modified polyester containing 3.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 as a glycol component was used and the spinning temperature was 265 ° C. Obtained. Although excellent in levelness, there were also problems in texture and heat resistance of the product.

Comparative Example 7 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 300 was used as the glycol component and the spinning temperature was 265 ° C. Although it has a soft texture, there was a problem with levelness. Also, the heat resistance of the product was poor.

(Comparative Example 8) Except that polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 3000 was used as the glycol component,
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. Although excellent in levelness, it lacked texture. In addition, there was a problem in light resistance of the product.

(Comparative Example 9) The same method as in Example 1 except that dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate was 0.85 mol%, glutaric acid was 3.0 mol%, and the spinning temperature was 265 ° C. as acid components. To obtain a fabric. It was soft and swelling but lacked level dyeing.

(Comparative Example 10) The same method as in Example 1 except that dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate was 0.85 mol%, dodecadionic acid was 3.0 mol%, and the spinning temperature was 265 ° C. as acid components. To obtain a fabric. Although excellent in levelness, it lacked swelling and softness, and had a problem in heat resistance of the product.

[0055]

[Table 1]

[0056]

[Table 2]

[0057]

[Table 3]

[0058]

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide inexpensively a bulky woven fabric which is soft, has swelling, and is excellent in coloring and leveling properties.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a cross section of a woven fabric according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

1: warp, 2: weft, H: thickness of fabric, L: reciprocal of weft density

Claims (6)

[Claims] 1. A mixed fiber comprising at least two types of multifilaments having a yarn length difference, wherein at least one multifilament group comprises 8 as a main acid component.
0 mol% or more of terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, and 0.75 to 1.2 mol% of a dicarboxylic acid composed of an alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and / or an alkali metal sulfoterephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof; 0 to 5.0 mol% of a saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 methylene groups, and 80 mol% or more of a glycol selected from ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component; Molecular weight of 0.5 to 2.0% by weight
A bulky polyester mixed fiber comprising a modified polyester satisfying the following formula (1) and comprising a polyalkylene glycol component of 00 to 2000. 0.4 ≦ X / PAG ≦ 1.2 (1) (where X (mol%) is the content of alkali metal sulfoisophthalic acid and / or alkali metal sulfoterephthalic acid, and PAG (weight%) is the polyalkylene glycol component. Represents the content of) 2. The bulky polyester-based mixed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the mixed yarn comprises two types of polyester multifilaments having a yarn length difference of at least 10% from each other. 3. A bulky polyester fabric, wherein the bulky polyester mixed yarn according to claim 1 is used for a warp and / or a weft, and the following formula (2) is satisfied. H / L ≧ 0.9 (2) (where H is the maximum thickness (cm) of the fabric in the cross section of the fabric, L
Represents the reciprocal of the weft density (lines / cm). ) 4. A bulky polyester woven fabric comprising at least a part of the bulky polyester mixed fiber according to claim 1, wherein the rate of weight loss at the time of alkali weight reduction satisfies the following formula (3). dN / dt ≦ 0.5 (3) (wherein N represents the weight loss rate (%) and t represents the time (minute)). 5. The bulky polyester fabric according to claim 4, wherein the dye exhaustion when dyed with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. is 85% or more. 6. The bulky polyester fabric according to claim 4, wherein the tear strength is 600 g or more.