US6071471A - Composition for jewelry - Google Patents

Composition for jewelry Download PDF

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Publication number
US6071471A
US6071471A US09/173,529 US17352998A US6071471A US 6071471 A US6071471 A US 6071471A US 17352998 A US17352998 A US 17352998A US 6071471 A US6071471 A US 6071471A
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United States
Prior art keywords
alloy
platinum
weight
concentration
present
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US09/173,529
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English (en)
Inventor
Ronald Winston
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Harry Winston Inc
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Harry Winston Inc
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Assigned to HARRY WINSTON, INC. reassignment HARRY WINSTON, INC. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: WINSTON, RONALD
Priority to US09/173,529 priority Critical patent/US6071471A/en
Priority to DE69909323T priority patent/DE69909323D1/de
Priority to JP2000576070A priority patent/JP4435984B2/ja
Priority to ES99948380T priority patent/ES2203182T3/es
Priority to AU61574/99A priority patent/AU6157499A/en
Priority to AT99948380T priority patent/ATE244316T1/de
Priority to EP99948380A priority patent/EP1137821B1/de
Priority to HK01108088.5A priority patent/HK1037219B/en
Priority to PCT/US1999/021908 priority patent/WO2000022180A1/en
Priority to TW088116905A priority patent/TW552305B/zh
Publication of US6071471A publication Critical patent/US6071471A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Assigned to ABN AMRO BANK N.V. reassignment ABN AMRO BANK N.V. PATENT SECURITY AGREEMENT Assignors: HARRY WINSTON, INC.
Assigned to ABN AMRO BANK N.V. reassignment ABN AMRO BANK N.V. RELEASE AND DISCHARGE OF SECURITY INTEREST IN PATENTS Assignors: HARRY WINSTON, INC.
Assigned to HSBC BANK USA, N.A. reassignment HSBC BANK USA, N.A. SECURITY AGREEMENT Assignors: HARRY WINSTON, INC.
Assigned to HARRY WINSTON, INC. reassignment HARRY WINSTON, INC. RELEASE BY SECURED PARTY (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: ABN AMRO BANK N.V.
Assigned to STANDARD CHARTERED BANK, AS ADMINISTRATIVE AGENT reassignment STANDARD CHARTERED BANK, AS ADMINISTRATIVE AGENT SECURITY AGREEMENT Assignors: HARRY WINSTON, INC.
Assigned to HARRY WINSTON, INC. reassignment HARRY WINSTON, INC. RELEASE BY SECURED PARTY (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: STANDARD CHARTERED BANK, AS AGENT
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002—Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003—Metallic alloys

Definitions

  • This invention relates to metal alloy compositions useful in the manufacture of jewelry and a method of manufacture of the metal alloy composition.
  • Alloys of platinum are used in the jewelry art for the fabrication of settings for precious and semi-precious gemstones. Desired properties, as recognized by the present inventor, include surface whiteness, malleability, strength, durability along with tarnish- and corrosion-resistance and ease of fabrication.
  • the prior art includes alloys with one or more of these characteristics, but not an alloy possessing all of them.
  • Japan Kokai Tokkyo Koho JP 62130238 A2 published Jun. 12, 1987 (Chem. Abstr. 108:99467), discloses an alloy containing Pt 85-95%, Si 1.5-6.5%, and Pd, Cu, Ir, Au, Ag, Ni, Co and/or Rh for the balance.
  • This alloy has a white platinum color useful in jewelry such as rings, tiepins and watch cases.
  • Japan Kokai Tokkyo Koho JP 03100159 A2, published April 25, 19U 1 discloses a metal combination that exhibits a bright black finish rather than a desirable enhanced white finish.
  • the composition of the reference includes: Pt, Rh 3-15%, and/or Ru and ⁇ 15% of Pd, Ir, Os, Au, Ag, Cu and/or Ni. These materials are heated in air or an oxidizing atmosphere at temperatures below the melting point of the alloys and then quenched in air, water or oil to generate a bright black finish.
  • Japan Kokai Tokkyo Koho JP 02043333 A2 published Feb. 1 1990 (Chem. Abstr. 113:63801), provides an alloy useful in jewelry manufacture containing Pt 80-98%, Re 0.5-10%, Pd 1-19% and Ru, Rh and/or Ir 0.05-3%, which is said to have improved hardness and castability.
  • Tucillo U.S. Pat. No. 3,767,391 discloses a tarnish-resistant alloy useful in cast or wrought dental work and in the manufacture of jewelry, which comprises 47% gold, 9-12% Pd, and the balance silver and copper. Due to the presence of gold, Tucillo's alloys are primarily yellow in coloration and not white.
  • the composition according to the present invention provides an alloy composition comprising platinum, rhodium and ruthenium which surprisingly retains an enhanced white finish without the need for further processing.
  • the alloy compositions according to the present invention exhibit enhanced whiteness in comparison to platinum alloys available in the art.
  • the present alloy compositions also possess the significant operational advantage of not requiring rhodium plating to achieve an acceptable whiteness, thereby substantially increasing the ease of making the alloy, and simultaneously reducing the cost of preparing jewelry casts and settings.
  • An object of the invention is to provide an aesthetic jewelry item comprising a platinum alloy having a durable high reflectance and a white finish comprising platinum, rhodium and ruthenium.
  • Another object is to form a platinum alloy having a permanent white finish, being highly workable, ductile and strong.
  • An alloy according to the present invention having a desired white finish comprises platinum present at a concentration of about 95% by weight, rhodium present in a concentration of from about 2.5% to about 3.5% by weight and ruthenium being present at a concentration from about 1.5% to about 2.5% by weight.
  • an aesthetic jewelry item comprises the platinum alloy as described above.
  • the jewelry item is selected from the group consisting of a ring, a brooch, a clip or a watch casing.
  • a method of making the alloy comprises melting platinum shot having a particle size of up to about 3 mm diameter combined with powdered Rh and Ru sponge material.
  • the method may including remelting the alloy a plurality of times to homogenize the alloy and quenching the melted alloy in flowing water at room temperature.
  • the melting of the alloy is performed in a reduced pressure atmosphere.
  • FIGS. 1-3 are charts illustrating various tested properties of the alloy according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the alloy of the present invention provides aesthetic pleasing jewelry comprising an alloy of about 95% platinum, about 2.5 to 3.5% rhodium and about 1.5 to 2.5% ruthenium, as disclosed herein, for use in jewelry items such as rings, brooches, bracelets, clips or watch cases, for example.
  • the melting processes required to prepare the platinum alloy described herein may be carried out using any heat-generating apparatus suited to the purpose.
  • Such an apparatus may encompass an induction furnace, an arc melt furnace or high-frequency melting furnace provided with a crucible and a gas atmosphere which may either be a normal mixture of atmospheric gases or an inert gas.
  • the furnace atmosphere is preferably at reduced pressure. This setup allows quenching.
  • Quenching is preferably carried out employing flowing water at room temperature, e.g., tap water.
  • the alloy may be made with platinum shot comprising commercially available 1-3 mm diameter particles combined with rhodium and rhutenium powder formed from Rh and Ru sponge ground into a powder also commercially available. Grinding the solid sponge material of the specified elements forms the sponge powder.
  • the alloys prepared in accordance with the present invention are unexpectedly stronger than pure platinum, and unexpectedly, significantly and permanently whiter in color than either pure platinum or platinum rhodium plated substrates of the prior art.
  • Platinum shot (course particles 1-3 mm diameter) was placed over Rh and Ru sponge powder comprising porous solid spongy material, a chemical precipitation, which was ground into a powder (all purchased from Johnson Matthey).
  • the platinum comprised about 95%, the Rh comprised embodiment about 2.5% and the Ru comprised about 2.5% of the charge by weight.
  • the charge was melted in a fused quartz crucible placed in a ceramic flask.
  • the alloy was melted at a temperature of 2050° C. in an induction furnace chamber with a negative pressure (low vacuum).
  • the melting temperature 2050° C. of the resulting alloy (W1) 95%Pt--2.5% Rh--2.5% Ru was determined using a Raytek optical pyrometer.
  • the time to achieve the desired melt was about 1 minute and the melt was held at the melt temperature for about 12 seconds.
  • the melting was repeated three (3) times to homogenize the alloy.
  • the alloy was quenched after melting in running tap water at room temperature 60-70° F.
  • the flask with the crucible was placed into the running water after the furnace power was switched off.
  • the resulting alloy W1 was centrifugally cast in Erscem induction casting machine into a mold with a 2" long and 1/4" diameter cavity as well cast into a hemispherical button 1" diameter and 1/4" thick.
  • the temperature of the melt was 2050° C.
  • the resulting W1 alloy (about 95%Pt--about 2.5% Rh--about 2.5% Ru) was tested for hardness and was considered too hard and its workability was inferior for most jewelry applications.
  • Alloy W1 was modified by diluting its Ru content to about 1.5% by adding Pt of an appropriate amount of Pt shot and increasing the Rh content to about 3.5% by adding an appropriate amount of Rh powder producing a second alloy (W2) in accordance with the procedure of Example 1.
  • the W2 composition containing 95% Pt--3.5% Rh--1.5% Ru was centrifugally cast in Erscem induction casting machine into molds with 2" long and 1/4" diameter cavity. It was also cast hemispherical button 1" diameter and 1/4" thick. This alloy exhibited desirable mechanical properties as shown below by detailed testing.
  • a third composition (W3) was prepared according to the procedure of Example 1. Alloy W3 contained about 95% Pt--about 3% Rh--about 2% Ru. Alloy W3 did not appear as lustrous as the W2 alloy, which exhibited the best combination of properties for jewelry applications.
  • Hardness of the plates and rods of the alloy W2 of Example 2 was measured from the plates on a Rockwell F and 15T scales and for the rods on a 15T scale. For rods, hardness, tensile strength, and microstructure were determined in as rolled and in an annealed condition.
  • Table 1 shows good hardness properties for jewelry applications.
  • the tensile test shows good tensile properties for the W2 alloy for jewelry applications.
  • Table 3 shows comparison of the W2 mechanical characteristics with typical properties of binary Pt-Rh and Pt-Ru alloys of 95% Pt.
  • Table 3 shows that the new allow W2 exhibits improved mechanical properties relative to the Pt and Ru or Pt and Rh compositions, minimum elongation and optimum UTS and optimum hardness.
  • Table 4 shows the properties for the as cast alloy. Hardness was measured for the platinum alloy samples by using the 15T scale (15 kg load, 1/16 inch diameter in diameter). The average hardness values for the un-annealed and annealed samples were 65 and 59 units in the 15T scale, respectively.
  • the microstructure for the as rolled and annealed condition of the W2 alloy was examined. Longitudinal and transversal microspecimens of the alloy material were prepared using standard metallographic procedure. The microspecimens were etched with a 3:1 ratio of HCL and HN03 in aqua regia at boiling temperature for 45 minutes.
  • the sample labeled "WRA” was annealed in a temperature of 1550° F. for 1 hour. Longitudinal and transversal microspecimens of the annealed platinum alloy were prepared and etched with the aforementioned etchant.
  • FIG. 1 Reflectance with (specular) and without (diffuse-true) the specular component was determined, FIG. 1.
  • Whiteness (brightness) of the surfaces was compared by measuring the L parameter. Specular properties are primarily a function of surface smoothness and these components were not compared in FIGS. 2 and 3.
  • optical characteristics were determined using a Macbeth Color Eye 7000 spectrophotometer (Kollmorgen Corp.)
  • Table 6 shows the change in whiteness (brightness) after exposure in 5% Sodium Sulfide aqueous solution for 10 hours, see also FIG. 2.
  • the whiteness (brightness) number L for W2 after the exposure decreased only by 2.5% compared with 10% for the rhodium coated sample, indicating that the W2 alloy was less affected (less tarnished) by the exposure.
  • Reflectance with specular component is indication of the surface smoothness condition and reflectance without specular component indicates the true color of the metal.
  • the surface of the W2 alloy was not as smooth as that of coated material and, therefore, the reflectance was slightly lower.
  • the surface smoothness is a function of mechanical finishing which is believed not a true characteristic of a given alloy.
  • the reflectance without the spectral component was significantly higher (about 3 times) for the W2 alloy.
  • the reflectance loss for measurement without the specular component was measured to be about 2 times higher for the plated sample compared with the W2 alloy.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
US09/173,529 1997-07-31 1998-10-15 Composition for jewelry Expired - Lifetime US6071471A (en)

Priority Applications (10)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US09/173,529 US6071471A (en) 1997-07-31 1998-10-15 Composition for jewelry
PCT/US1999/021908 WO2000022180A1 (en) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Composition for jewelry
JP2000576070A JP4435984B2 (ja) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 ジュエリー組成物
ES99948380T ES2203182T3 (es) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Composicion para joyeria.
AU61574/99A AU6157499A (en) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Composition for jewelry
AT99948380T ATE244316T1 (de) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Zusammensetzung für schmuck
EP99948380A EP1137821B1 (de) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Zusammensetzung für schmuck
HK01108088.5A HK1037219B (en) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Composition for jewelry
DE69909323T DE69909323D1 (de) 1998-10-15 1999-09-21 Zusammensetzung für schmuck
TW088116905A TW552305B (en) 1998-10-15 1999-10-01 Composition for jewelry

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US5436197P 1997-07-31 1997-07-31
US12751298A 1998-07-31 1998-07-31
US09/173,529 US6071471A (en) 1997-07-31 1998-10-15 Composition for jewelry

Related Parent Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US12751298A Continuation-In-Part 1997-07-31 1998-07-31

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US6071471A true US6071471A (en) 2000-06-06

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US09/173,529 Expired - Lifetime US6071471A (en) 1997-07-31 1998-10-15 Composition for jewelry

Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US6071471A (de)
EP (1) EP1137821B1 (de)
JP (1) JP4435984B2 (de)
AT (1) ATE244316T1 (de)
AU (1) AU6157499A (de)
DE (1) DE69909323D1 (de)
ES (1) ES2203182T3 (de)
TW (1) TW552305B (de)
WO (1) WO2000022180A1 (de)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20050045254A1 (en) * 2003-09-02 2005-03-03 Melick Llc Method for producing platinum alloys and alloys which can be obtained using this method
US20130216846A1 (en) * 2010-09-09 2013-08-22 Zebin Bao Alloy material for high temperature having excellent oxidation resistant properties and method for producing the same
CN110527862A (zh) * 2019-09-18 2019-12-03 深圳市甘露珠宝首饰有限公司 铂合金及其制备方法

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3767391A (en) * 1969-05-19 1973-10-23 Pennwalt Corp Tarnish resistant alloy
US3884669A (en) * 1971-11-03 1975-05-20 Pilkington Brothers Ltd Refractory elements
US3958070A (en) * 1973-06-22 1976-05-18 Schwarzkopf Development Corporation Decorative metallic articles with differently colored surface zones
US4130506A (en) * 1975-07-04 1978-12-19 Johnson, Matthey & Co., Limited Metal powders
US4192667A (en) * 1977-12-21 1980-03-11 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation Platinum group metal layer on a refractory
US4240847A (en) * 1977-12-21 1980-12-23 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation Production of platinum group metal layer on a refractory
US4439470A (en) * 1980-11-17 1984-03-27 George Kelly Sievers Method for forming ternary alloys using precious metals and interdispersed phase
US4464213A (en) * 1982-09-30 1984-08-07 Nielsen John P Nobleization of beta brass
US5164026A (en) * 1989-06-27 1992-11-17 Ludwig Muller S.A. Coloring a gold alloy
US5240172A (en) * 1989-10-27 1993-08-31 Degussa Aktiengesellschaft Solder alloy for dental and jewelry parts

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS61136929A (ja) * 1984-12-10 1986-06-24 Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd ガラスプレス成形用型の製造方法
JPH0243333A (ja) * 1988-08-02 1990-02-13 Tokuriki Honten Co Ltd 装飾用白金合金
WO1997040200A1 (en) * 1996-04-24 1997-10-30 Mintek Platinum alloy

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3767391A (en) * 1969-05-19 1973-10-23 Pennwalt Corp Tarnish resistant alloy
US3884669A (en) * 1971-11-03 1975-05-20 Pilkington Brothers Ltd Refractory elements
US3958070A (en) * 1973-06-22 1976-05-18 Schwarzkopf Development Corporation Decorative metallic articles with differently colored surface zones
US4130506A (en) * 1975-07-04 1978-12-19 Johnson, Matthey & Co., Limited Metal powders
US4274877A (en) * 1975-07-04 1981-06-23 Johnson, Matthey & Co., Limited Metal powders
US4192667A (en) * 1977-12-21 1980-03-11 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation Platinum group metal layer on a refractory
US4240847A (en) * 1977-12-21 1980-12-23 Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation Production of platinum group metal layer on a refractory
US4439470A (en) * 1980-11-17 1984-03-27 George Kelly Sievers Method for forming ternary alloys using precious metals and interdispersed phase
US4464213A (en) * 1982-09-30 1984-08-07 Nielsen John P Nobleization of beta brass
US5164026A (en) * 1989-06-27 1992-11-17 Ludwig Muller S.A. Coloring a gold alloy
US5240172A (en) * 1989-10-27 1993-08-31 Degussa Aktiengesellschaft Solder alloy for dental and jewelry parts

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
Chem. Abstract (105:157438) JP 61034138, Feb. 18, 1986. *

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20050045254A1 (en) * 2003-09-02 2005-03-03 Melick Llc Method for producing platinum alloys and alloys which can be obtained using this method
US7001473B2 (en) * 2003-09-02 2006-02-21 Melick Llc Method for producing platinum alloys and alloys which can be obtained using this method
US20130216846A1 (en) * 2010-09-09 2013-08-22 Zebin Bao Alloy material for high temperature having excellent oxidation resistant properties and method for producing the same
CN110527862A (zh) * 2019-09-18 2019-12-03 深圳市甘露珠宝首饰有限公司 铂合金及其制备方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
TW552305B (en) 2003-09-11
JP2002527617A (ja) 2002-08-27
DE69909323D1 (de) 2003-08-07
ES2203182T3 (es) 2004-04-01
HK1037219A1 (en) 2002-02-01
ATE244316T1 (de) 2003-07-15
EP1137821A1 (de) 2001-10-04
AU6157499A (en) 2000-05-01
JP4435984B2 (ja) 2010-03-24
EP1137821B1 (de) 2003-07-02
WO2000022180A1 (en) 2000-04-20

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