WO2012120002A2 - Palmitate d'isopropyle utilisé comme lipide régulateur de viscosité dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques en émulsion - Google Patents

Palmitate d'isopropyle utilisé comme lipide régulateur de viscosité dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques en émulsion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012120002A2
WO2012120002A2 PCT/EP2012/053796 EP2012053796W WO2012120002A2 WO 2012120002 A2 WO2012120002 A2 WO 2012120002A2 EP 2012053796 W EP2012053796 W EP 2012053796W WO 2012120002 A2 WO2012120002 A2 WO 2012120002A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
viscosity
preparation
glyceryl stearate
sorbitan
isopropyl palmitate
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2012/053796
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012120002A3 (fr
Inventor
Janina Junge
Katharina WEITZEL
Rainer Kröpke
Isabel Balcke
Kaja Lüttig
Volker Kallmayer
Jens Nielsen
Anja Drucks
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of WO2012120002A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012120002A2/fr
Publication of WO2012120002A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012120002A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system

Definitions

  • the invention describes the use of isopropyl palmitate for adjusting the viscosity and, in particular, increasing the viscosity of emulsion-based preparations.
  • Cosmetic preparations in the form of emulsions are classified in terms of their fluidity in liquid products (lotions) and firmer products (creams). For the exact definition of fluidity, the viscosity of the lotions and the consistency of the creams are measured.
  • the viscosity of the lotions is an important physical property because it affects other product properties.
  • Cosmetic preparations with too high a viscosity are difficult to remove from the packaging and are difficult to distribute on the skin. Therefore, it is very important to adjust the viscosity according to the intended use and the packaging.
  • Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable dispersions of two immiscible liquids.
  • the inner (discontinuous) phase is distributed in the form of droplets in the outer (continuous) phase. If the inner phase is the lipophilic phase, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion). For a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, the lipophilic phase is the outer phase. There are too
  • the viscosity of lotions is adjusted by adding thickeners or bodying agents.
  • the outer phase of an O / W emulsions is stabilized.
  • hydrocolloids are generally used, which swell the outer aqueous phase of emulsions.
  • the hydrocolloids include i.a. Xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives, polyacrylates, agar agar or magnesium aluminum silicates.
  • hydrocolloids possibly adversely affects the appearance and / or the sensory properties of the formulations.
  • the products become yellowish, jelly-like, stringy or sticky.
  • the group of consistency regulators also includes fatty alcohols (waxes).
  • the disadvantage here is their extremely strong influence on the viscosity, even at low concentrations, and thus the difficult adjustability of the flow properties.
  • negative effects on the external appearance and on the skin feel of the cosmetic product may occur.
  • the formulations look lumpy, whitish, waxy, dull and / or difficult to disperse.
  • the cosmetic specialist is aware of a wide variety of oils, lipids, which can be used in a wide variety of emulsion formulations.
  • Lipids have a positive effect on the care properties of the cosmetic or dermatological product. They improve spreadability, richness and produce a smooth and supple skin feeling. The appearance is also positively influenced by the proportion of lipids: the higher the proportion, the whiter, richer and glossier the emulsion looks.
  • the invention is therefore the use of isopropyl palmitate for adjusting the viscosity of dermatological or cosmetic preparations based on oil in water (O / W emulsions).
  • Isopropyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl hexadecanoate, isopal, isopalm, CAS No .: 142-91-6
  • Isopropyl palmitate in the context of the invention consists of isopropyl palmitate and accompanying substances, such as isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl laurate, each of which may be at most 5% by weight, based on the total mass of isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl laurate and isopropyl palmitate.
  • isopropyl palmitate has a viscosity of 7 to 9 mPas, as measured by means of a Viscotester VT-02, the company Haake at 25 ° C by means of the rotating body 1 or 2 and reading the scale 1 or 2 determined, corresponding to a shear rate of 10 Pa / s.
  • isopropyl palmitate is known in many preparations.
  • Lipid is a collective term for all fatty substances, such as fatty substances of natural origin, which are made for example of petroleum. Fats protect the skin from drying out and damaging environmental influences. They moisturize and smooth the skin structure.
  • the viscosity of the preparation alone can be adjusted only by the proportion of isopropyl palmitate.
  • the addition of further viscosity-influencing substances, in particular thickeners and / or bodying agents, can therefore preferably be reduced or completely avoided in the preparations according to the invention.
  • the viscosity is measured with a rotational rheometer by rotating a measuring body in the substance to be measured.
  • the viscosity of the substance is proportional to the force with which it counteracts the rotation of the measuring body. This applies on condition that the measuring body geometry and speed remain the same.
  • the viscosity ⁇ is defined as the ratio of shear stress ⁇ and shear rate ⁇
  • the viscosity changes with the shear rate.
  • care must be taken that the product is e.g. behave differently when pumping than when pouring.
  • the viscosity must therefore be determined in each case in the shear rate range in which the application is located, ie. H.
  • Various theological examination methods must be used to determine if the surface of the cream in the container is running fast, if the cream is comfortable to apply and penetrates into the skin, or if you want to calculate what pumping power is needed to get it through
  • Emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sorbitan Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol were used as example emulsifiers. Although isopropyl palmitate has a lower inherent viscosity, the emulsions produced therewith have significantly higher viscosity values.
  • the viscosity of isopropyl palmitate is 7-9 mPa * s, that of paraffin liquidum 72 mPa * s.
  • bodying agents are substances which contain no OH groups and are chemically esters or are of inorganic origin (for example compounds from the group of synthetic, natural, hydrophilic and / or organophilic phyllosilicates, in particular concreteites and / or hectorites).
  • Thickeners within the meaning of the invention are polymeric substances which increase the viscosity by more than 50% in comparison to the preparation without this substance.
  • Table 1 shows the different proportion of isopropyl palmitate the resulting influence on the viscosity of the preparation.
  • the proportions given are parts by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Liquidum Stearate 1, 5% 2600 3150 3350
  • Palmitate Stearate 1, 5% 7050 6400 6000
  • Liquidum Stearate 1, 5% 5150 5550 5500
  • Palmitate Stearate 1, 5% 7300 6600 6000
  • Liquidum Citrate 0.8% sorbitan 5900 5950 5850 Stearate, 1, 5%
  • the pure raw material isopropyl palmitate only has a viscosity of 7-9 mPas and the raw material paraffin liquidum has a viscosity of 72 mPas, the
  • Formulations of preparations with isopropyl palmitate a significantly higher viscosity.
  • the proportion of isopropyl palmitate can be used to change the viscosity of the emulsion-based preparation and to tailor it to the individual circumstances without having to rely on additional bodying agents or thickeners, which in turn could influence other properties of the preparations.
  • the percentage of additional bodying agents or thickeners which in turn could influence other properties of the preparations.
  • Consistency donors or thickeners is therefore according to the invention a maximum of 0.5 wt.%, In particular 0 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation. That the amount of thickeners and consistency factors can be reduced (to a maximum of 0.5%) or completely avoided.
  • Isopropyl palmitate is preferably used in a proportion range of 0.5 to 25% by weight.
  • Isopropyl palmitate can be adjusted, is preferably between 3,000 and 10,000 mPas.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparation according to the invention having a viscosity in the range from 3,000 to 10,000 mPas comprising isopropyl palmitates, optionally paraffin liquid and one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate citrates, sorbitan stearates and cetearyl alcohol are characterized in particular by the fact that they do not affect any further viscosity Substances such as thickeners or bodying agents containing more than 0.5% by weight.
  • Paraffin Liquidum is advantageously used in a proportion of up to 10% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Preferred paraffin oil comprises a viscosity of about 20 - 1 10 mPa ⁇ s. That is, preferably Paraffinum Liquidum is the only other
  • Viscosity-influencing constituent of the preparations according to the invention are Preferred emulsifiers for the O / W emulsion preparations according to the invention are partial glycerides, mono- and / or diglycerides of C 12 to C 22 fatty acids with glycerol and technical mixtures thereof, provided they have a melting point above 30 ° C. Examples include glyceryl stearate citrates, sorbitan stearates,
  • Isostearic acid monoglyceride isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,
  • Partialgylceride are mono- and / or diglycerides of dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 8 carbon atoms with glycerol and their technical mixtures, provided that they have a melting point above 30 ° C.
  • suitable Partialgylceride are mono- and / or diglycerides of dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 8 carbon atoms with glycerol and their technical mixtures, provided that they have a melting point above 30 ° C.
  • examples which may be mentioned are tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride,
  • Sorbitan esters can also be used, for example, as preferred emulsifiers, provided that they have a melting point above 30 ° C.
  • Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan butucate, in particular, are used as sorbitan esters.
  • Sorbitandihydroxystearat Sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate,
  • polyglycerol esters for example, the following compounds can be used, provided that they have a melting point of> 30 ° C: polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010190) , Polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether (Chimexane NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor GS 32) and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di-, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • lipophilic coemulsifiers can be added. lipophilic
  • Coemulsifiers are nonionic, polar lipid substances with one or more
  • Hydroxyl groups which are insoluble or only dispersible in water and which are not suitable due to their low hydrophilicity alone for the production of oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Suitable co-emulsifiers according to the invention are those of the saturated fatty alcohols type having 16-22 C atoms, e.g. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols suitable as obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids having 16-22 carbon atoms or the corresponding fatty acid methyl ester.
  • saturated fatty alcohols type having 16-22 C atoms e.g. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols suitable as obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids having 16-22 carbon atoms or the corresponding fatty acid methyl ester.
  • coemulsifiers include partial esters of a polyol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and saturated fatty acids having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Such partial esters are e.g.
  • the monoglycerides of palmitic and / or stearic acid the sorbitan mono- and / or diesters of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, the monoesters of trimethylolpropane, erythritol or
  • Monoesters are also understood to be the technical monoesters obtained by esterification of 1 mol of polyol with 1 mol of fatty acid and which represent a mixture of monoester, diester and unesterified polyol Saturated fatty alcohols having 16-22 carbon atoms or partial esters are particularly well suited of polyols with 3-6 C atoms and fatty acids with 14-22 C atoms, as well as myristyl myristate and wool wax alcohol.
  • stabilizers may be added to the preparation according to the invention.
  • metal salts of fatty acids e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate, sodium polyacrylate (Carbomer 981, Fa Lubrizol) are used.
  • stabilizers are natural polymers that can stabilize an emulsion against coalescence at high temperatures (e.g., xanthan gum,
  • these substances stabilize the preparations according to the invention, build up a high quiescent viscosity, which clearly collapses under shear.
  • the ratio of quiescent viscosity (yield point) to the flow viscosity of such stabilizer-containing formulations is 5: 1, preferably 2: 1 and more preferably 1, 5: 1, 05.
  • the proportion of these stabilizers, which may possibly exert an influence on the viscosity of the preparation is preferably selected to a maximum of 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise one or more emulsifiers selected from glyceryl stearate citrate (HLB 10-12), sorbitan stearate (HLB 4,7),
  • Emulsion preparation having a viscosity in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPas includes isopropyl palmitate, optionally paraffin liquidum, and one or more
  • Emulsifiers selected from the group Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sorbitan Stearate,
  • Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and cetearyl alcohol.
  • Other viscosity-influencing substances are contained at most up to a proportion of 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • Cetearyl sulfate, sodium salt 0, 1 0.2 0, 12 0, 14 0.075
  • Silicone oil linear 0.5 1, 3 1, 5 1, 2 1, 75

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La rhéologie de préparations cosmétiques en émulsion peut être influencée par des épaississants ou des agents de consistance. L'utilisation de palmitate d'isopropyle permet d'ajuster la viscosité de préparations à base d'émulsions sans devoir recouvrir aux additifs précités.
PCT/EP2012/053796 2011-03-07 2012-03-06 Palmitate d'isopropyle utilisé comme lipide régulateur de viscosité dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques en émulsion Ceased WO2012120002A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102011005176.7 2011-03-07
DE201110005176 DE102011005176A1 (de) 2011-03-07 2011-03-07 Isopropylpalmitat als viskositätsregulierendes Lipid in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Emulsionszubereitungen

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012120002A2 true WO2012120002A2 (fr) 2012-09-13
WO2012120002A3 WO2012120002A3 (fr) 2013-06-06

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PCT/EP2012/053796 Ceased WO2012120002A2 (fr) 2011-03-07 2012-03-06 Palmitate d'isopropyle utilisé comme lipide régulateur de viscosité dans des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques en émulsion

Country Status (2)

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DE (1) DE102011005176A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012120002A2 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114599334A (zh) * 2019-11-01 2022-06-07 高露洁-棕榄公司 稳定的低pH个人护理组合物和用于其的方法
CN116115555A (zh) * 2022-11-25 2023-05-16 山东创新药物研发有限公司 一种夫西地酸乳膏组合物及其制备方法

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2023157265A (ja) * 2022-04-14 2023-10-26 花王株式会社 乳化化粧料

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3819193A1 (de) * 1988-06-06 1989-12-07 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur herstellung stabiler, niedrigviskoser oel-in-wasser-emulsionen polarer oelkomponenten
US5525588A (en) * 1994-09-14 1996-06-11 Elzabeth Arden Co. Cosmetic composition
DE102005028590A1 (de) * 2005-06-21 2007-01-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Isotridecylisononanoat und niedrigviskose, gut spreitende Lipidkomponenten
DE102007006778A1 (de) * 2007-02-08 2008-08-14 Beiersdorf Ag Neues Duschöl

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
J. S. JELLINEK, KOSMETOLOGIE, 1976

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114599334A (zh) * 2019-11-01 2022-06-07 高露洁-棕榄公司 稳定的低pH个人护理组合物和用于其的方法
CN116115555A (zh) * 2022-11-25 2023-05-16 山东创新药物研发有限公司 一种夫西地酸乳膏组合物及其制备方法
CN116115555B (zh) * 2022-11-25 2025-09-23 山东创新药物研发有限公司 一种夫西地酸乳膏组合物及其制备方法

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WO2012120002A3 (fr) 2013-06-06
DE102011005176A1 (de) 2012-09-13

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