Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
  • A41H37/08—Setting buckles

Definitions

• the present invention relates to methods and devices for assembling loops and ribbons to form an adjustable garment strap such as a women's underwear strap, for example a bra strap.
• the bras straps generally comprise a main segment of sling whose length is adjustable, and a secondary segment of sling whose length is fixed, the two segments being connected to each other by a loop.
• the main segment of the shoulder strap comprises, for the adjustment of its length, a rule with two transverse slots separated by a cross member.
• a ribbon passes a first time in the ruler crossing both of the two slots and passing around the central cross separating them, then goes into the loop and returns to the ruler to pass again, in the same direction, around the central cross of the rule and to form a loop secured to itself around the central crossbar.
• the difficulty comes from the fact that it is necessary to pass several times the ribbon in the slots of the ruler to achieve this main segment of ramp adjustable length. Ribbon passes are long and tedious operations.
• Means have already been devised allowing the automatic threading of the ribbon into the ruler to form the main segment of a shoulder strap with a ruler.
• the documents FR 2 515 009 A and FR 2 631 788 A describe methods and devices for this automatic threading of the ribbon in a rule, implementing at least three separate introductory fingers successively, several clamping fingers.
• ribbon as well as a device for holding and rotating the rule by 180 °.
• the devices are relatively complex, requiring several fingers of introduction, which increases their production cost, the difficulty of adjustments, and the risk of malfunctions.
• the problem proposed by the present invention is to design a method and a device for mounting the main segment of a shoulder strap which avoids the mounting defects encountered with the known devices, namely ribbon misalignment in the loop. fastening around the central beam of the rule, and the variations in length of the fastening loop around the central beam of the rule.
• the invention provides a method and a device which assures the mounting of the main strapless segment with the aid of only one threading finger, constituting a simpler, more reliable and less expensive device.
• Another object of the invention is to design a mounting device which is much simpler to adjust for adaptation to shoulder straps of different sizes, allowing use by a less experienced staff.
• the invention provides a method of mounting a main strapless segment, comprising the steps of: a) holding a two-slot rule in a fixed initial position, with a first slit oriented transversely and downstream, and with a second slit oriented transversely and upstream with respect to a direction of progression, b) a movable transfer clamp is used to catch an intermediate section of a ribbon upstream of the ruler, and the ribbon is moved downstream with the aid of said transfer clamp to bring its downstream end portion parallel and opposite the rule, with its free end offset downstream of the rule, c) the section is introduced downstream end of the ribbon in the first slit of the rule, by pushing with the aid of an introduction finger, d) the insertion finger is removed and the rule is rotated by 180 ° in a first direction around the central crossbar of the rule, so as to bring the downstream end section of the ribbon downstream of the rule, e) one introduces the downstream end section of the ribbon into the second slot of the rule by pushing with the aid of
• the present method avoids the mounting defects mentioned above, and can be implemented on a simpler device than the known devices mentioned above.
• the present method provides for a step of simultaneously introducing the ribbon into the ruler and in the ring, and can be implemented on a device having only one finger introduction.
• the transfer clamp holds the tape upstream of the rule and, during step b), the downstream end portion of the ribbon is guided by guiding means. downstream of the transfer clamp and pushed downstream by the transfer clamp.
• the transfer clamp it is possible to hold the tape permanently upstream of the rule, which avoids most of the length adjustment defects encountered with known devices in which the tape holding clips move along the tape during of the method, each pinching operation of the ribbon causing an uncertainty of position of the clamp on the ribbon and therefore an uncertainty in the length of the ribbon loops.
• the transfer clamp blocks the upstream section of tape near the rule, and centering means guide the free end of the tape to engage against the upstream section of ribbon.
• the taking of the ribbon by the transfer clamp can be constant and perfectly controlled, to avoid further defects resulting from a variation in the length of the ribbon loops.
• the free end of the ribbon can be secured to the upstream ribbon web by ultrasonic welding between a sonotrode and an anvil welding.
• the tape can be ultrasonically cut between a sonotrode and a cross-cutting cutting anvil.
• the invention proposes a device for implementing the above method, comprising a frame, a ribbon supply, a reserve of loops, a reserve of rulers, first support means for holding a ruler in initial position, second support means for holding a ring, an insertion finger and its actuating means for passing through a slot of the rule, holding means for holding the ribbon, cutting means for cutting the ribbon, securing means for securing the tape to itself, rotation means for pivoting the first support means around the central beam of the rule, a stretching finger and its longitudinal translation drive means in the direction of progression;
• the first support means comprise a first crossmember and a second crossmember parallel to one another and between which the rule is engaged and held,
• the first cross member forms a welding anvil adapted to cooperate with a sonotrode to weld the tape on itself during the step of joining.
• Such a device makes it possible to achieve the desired purpose, in particular by the fact that the support means thus formed ensure good lateral guidance of the tape during the various steps of the method.
• the particular structure of the first support means enables them to ensure good guidance of the free ribbon section during the ribbon insertion steps in the rule, and this guidance is particularly effective during the step preceding the fastening the ribbon on itself, the anvil then participating itself in this guidance.
• the means for holding the ribbon comprise: - a transfer clamp and means for moving it longitudinally in the direction of progression between the upstream and downstream while remaining permanently upstream of the first support means,
• a telescopic guide associated with the transfer clamp, adapted to guide the downstream end portion of the ribbon downstream beyond the first support means, and adapted to retract upstream of the first support means.
• the transfer clamp ensures a constant grip of the tape during the process steps, ensuring good control of the length of the tape loops during the process.
• this particular structure ribbon handling means with a clamp which remains upstream of the rule and which therefore pushes the downstream section of ribbon instead of pulling it, and with a telescopic guide, ensure a smooth handling that avoids apply to the downstream section of ribbon transient mechanical tensile stresses. Such tensile stresses, which occur in known devices, would induce random remanent deformations of the ribbon and uncertainty in the length and centering of the ribbon strips. These defects are thus avoided.
• such a device is such that:
• the first support means are fixed in longitudinal position in the direction of progression
• the insertion finger and the sonotrode are mounted on a common support which is itself displaceable in the direction of progression between a first position in which the insertion finger is facing the downstream slot of the rule, a second position in which the sonotrode is next to the first crosses first support means upstream of the rule, and a third position in which the introduction finger is facing the upstream slot of the rule.
• the process steps are performed using a single input finger, and the operation is particularly reliable.
• the second support means for holding a ring comprise moving and holding means able to hold the second support means and the ring in a fixed engagement position facing the first support means for the engagement. simultaneous ribbon in the ring and in the rule by the introduction finger.
• the device is both simpler and more effective than known devices.
• the synchronized displacement operations of the ring and the ribbon are avoided, operations which, in the known devices, induce a cooperation between the ring and the ribbon and require a perfect coordination of the movements, while undergoing the hazards. due to the often irregular shape of the ribbons.
• the invention thus makes it possible to guarantee a good result with rings and ribbons of any shape.
• FIG. 1 and 2 illustrate, respectively in side view and in front view, the structure of a ramp strap after assembly
• FIG. 3 is a diagrammatic side view illustrating the position of the different main members of the mounting device according to the invention during a first step of the method, the rule being held in a support;
• FIG. 4 illustrates the device of FIG. 1 during the transfer of the tape facing the rule
• FIG. 5 illustrates the device of Figure 1 during removal of the telescopic guide during the transfer of the tape
• FIG. 6 illustrates the device of FIG. 1 during the step of first penetration of the ribbon by the insertion finger in the ruler;
• FIG. 7 illustrates the device of FIG. 1 during a step of complementary withdrawal of the telescopic guide
• FIG. 8 illustrates the device of FIG. 1 during removal of the insertion finger
• FIG. 9 illustrates the device of FIG. 1 during the first reversal of the rule
• FIG. 10 illustrates the step of second penetration of the ribbon by the insertion finger in the ruler
• FIG. 12 illustrates the step of the second overturning of the rule, with displacement of the sonotrode and the insertion finger downstream;
• FIG. 13 illustrates the step of releasing the clamp after turning the ruler
• FIG. 14 illustrates an anvil support step
• FIG. 15 illustrates the step of securing the weld fixing loop
• FIG. 16 illustrates the removal of the sonotrode after the joining, and the step of stretching of the adjustment loop by the transverse stretching finger
• FIG. 17 illustrates the step of moving the insertion finger and the sonotrode upstream
• - Figure 18 illustrates the tightening of the ribbon by the transfer clamp
• - Figures 19 and 20 illustrate the step of feeding a ring facing the rule
• FIGS. 21 and 22 illustrate the locking of the ribbon against the ring, and the cutting of the ribbon upstream of the rule by a cutting anvil
• FIG. 25 illustrates the third penetration step, during which the insertion finger passes through both the loop and the rule to engage the ribbon in the two elements simultaneously;
• Fig. 26 illustrates the next step of removing the introducer finger
• FIG. 27 illustrates the next step of blocking the upstream free end of the ribbon
• FIG. 28 illustrates the step of transferring the ring downstream
• Figures 29 and 30 illustrate the step of releasing tape and third turning the ruler
• FIGS. 31 and 32 illustrate a ribbon blocking and fourth penetration step in the rule
• - Figures 33 and 34 illustrate the release operations of the main segment of strap
• FIG. 35 is a schematic front view of a device implementing the above method.
• FIGS. 1 and 2 show a bra strap that can be assembled by a device and according to a method of the present invention.
• This ramp comprises a main segment of ramp 1 and a segment 2.
• the secondary segment of strap 2 has a fixed length, and is formed of a length of tape 3 closed in a fastening loop 4 on a connecting ring 5.
• the main segment of ramp 1 has a variable length its length can be modified by sliding a ruler 6 along a section of ribbon 7.
• the rule 6, as illustrated in the figures, is a double ring 8 flattened, defining a first slot 8 and a second slot 9, both oriented transversely, and separated from each other by a central cross member 10.
• a first end 1 1 of the ribbon 7 is looped integrally on itself around the central web 10, then the ribbon 7 is formed according to a control loop 12 passing through the ring of link 5. The ribbon 7 then passes into the second slot 9 and into the first slot 8 to exit in an upstream section 13.
• FIGS. 3 to 34 which illustrate the successive steps of a method of assembly according to an embodiment of the present invention, are now considered.
• a transfer clamp 20, an insertion finger 21, a sonotrode 22, a welding anvil 23, a retractable anvil support are thus distinguished.
• a cutting anvil 25, a drawing finger 26, guiding means comprising a telescopic guide 27 associated with the transfer clamp 20, and a clamping shoe 28.
• first support means 29 capable of holding the rule 6 in appropriate positions for the various steps of the method.
• a direction of longitudinal progression is defined, illustrated by the arrow 30, or direction in which the ribbon 7 is unwound from a reserve ribbon not shown in these figures 3 to 34.
• the ribbon 7 is brought in a substantially horizontal plane, the insertion finger 21 and the sonotrode 22 being disposed above the general progression plane of the ribbon 7, while the anvil 23, the cutting anvil 25, the retractable anvil support 24 and the first support means 29 are arranged below the general plane of progression of the ribbon 7.
• the first support means 29 comprise a first crossbar
• the first crosspiece 29a has an upper face which constitutes the welding anvil 23, adapted to cooperate with the sonotrode 22.
• the first support means 29 are fixed in longitudinal position in the direction of progression 30, but are pivotally mounted about a transverse axis collinear with the crossbar 10. It will be considered that the first support means 29 can pivot around the cross member 10, according to an amplitude of 360 °.
• the insertion finger 21, the clamping shoe 28 and the sonotrode 22 are mounted on a common support 31, schematically illustrated in dashed lines, which is itself displaceable in the direction of progression between three positions: in a first position, illustrated in Figure 3, the insertion finger 21 is facing the downstream slot of the rule 6 (the first slot 8 in the case of Figure 3); in a second position, illustrated in FIG. 12, the sonotrode 22 is facing the upstream cross member of the first support means 29 (the first crosspiece 29a with anvil 23 in FIG. 12), the insertion finger 21 being offset towards the downstream in the direction of progression 30; in a third position, illustrated in Figure 17, the insertion finger 21 is facing the upstream slot of the rule 6 (the second slot 9 in the case of Figure 17).
• the transfer clip 20 can assume two states, namely a relaxed state illustrated in FIG. 3, in which it releases the strip 7 for its progression in the direction of progression 30, and a tight state illustrated in FIG. 4, in which it is in rubbing contact with the ribbon 7.
• the transfer clip 20 is displaceable longitudinally along the direction of progression 30, between a retracted position illustrated in FIG. 3 in which it is upstream and at the spacing of the first support means 29, and a close position illustrated in Figure 4 wherein it is moved to the vicinity of the first support means 29 while remaining upstream of said first support means 29.
• the telescopic guide 27 is associated with the transfer clamp 20, that is to say that it moves in longitudinal movement with the transfer clamp 20 during its movements between the withdrawal position (FIG. 3) and the relative position ( Figure 4).
• the telescopic guide 27 may be selectively deployed and retracted longitudinally with respect to the transfer clamp 20, which can assume an extended position illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4, for example, and then an intermediate position illustrated in FIGS. and 6 for example, and finally a retracted position illustrated in Figures 1 1 and 12 for example.
• the telescopic guide 27 When the transfer clamp 20 is in the retracted position, the telescopic guide 27 is in all cases upstream of the first support means 29.
• the telescopic guide 27 When the transfer clamp 20 is in the close position, the telescopic guide 27 has its downstream end 27a located with regard to the downstream cross-member of the first support means 29 (the cross-member 29b in FIG. 4 for example), its downstream end 27a being opposite the upstream cross-member of the first support means 29 (the cross-member 29a in FIG. ) when it is in the intermediate position, and its downstream end 27a is still upstream of the first support means 29 when in the retracted position as illustrated in Figure 1 1.
• the retractable anvil support 24 is for example a pivotally mounted piece about a transverse lower axis 24a, between a retracted position illustrated in FIG. 3 in which it is away from the upstream cross member 29a, and a position of support as shown in Figure 14 in which it bears against the underside of the upstream cross 29a.
• the clamping shoe 28, mounted on the common support 31, is movable vertically between a retracted position, illustrated in FIG. 3, in which it is away from the first support means 29, and a clamping position, illustrated by FIG. example in Figures 23 and 24, in which it is close to the first support means 29 bearing on the upper face of the ring 5 to tighten the ribbon 7 against the ring 5.
• the telescopic guide 27 is designed as a gutter to support a ribbon end portion and to guide it laterally from the transfer clip 20 to its downstream end 27a, while being able to slide along the ribbon 7 in the direction of the ribbon. progression 30.
• the transfer clip 20 is released and in the retracted position, the telescopic guide 27 is deployed, the sonotrode 22, the insertion finger 21 and the clamping pad 28 are retracted, the common support 31 is in first position, the anvil support 24 is retracted, the cutting anvil 25 is retracted, and the first support means 29 hold a ruler 6 in a horizontal position, with the first crossbar 29a in upstream of the rule 6, and with the second crossbar 29b downstream of the rule 6.
• the tape 7 extends to the downstream end 27a of the telescopic guide 27, its free end 7a may protrude slightly downstream. The first step a) of the method is thus carried out.
• step b) of transfer of the ribbon is carried out.
• the transfer clamp 20 is lowered to the tightened state to engage the ribbon 7, then the transfer clamp 20, the telescopic guide 27 and the ribbon 7 are moved downstream until the transfer clamp 20 reaches its close position.
• the downstream end portion 7b of the ribbon 7 is thus guided by the telescopic guide 27 forming guide means, downstream of the transfer clip 20, and is pushed downstream by the transfer clip 20
• the free end 7a of the ribbon 7, held in the downstream end 27a of the telescopic guide 27, is then located at the right of the second crossmember 29b of the first support means 29, the ribbon 7 having a section d the downstream end 7b deployed above and parallel to the assembly formed by the first support means 29 and the rule 6.
• the telescopic guide 27 is retracted to the intermediate position, its downstream end 27a being at the right of the first cross member 29a of the first support means 29, the transfer clamp 20 always being in a tight state for contrast with the simultaneous withdrawal of the ribbon 7 with the telescopic guide 27.
• the ribbon 7 is thus held by the telescopic guide 27 near the rule 6 for the next operation, and the downstream end portion 7b of the ribbon 7 remains on the first support means 29 and the rule 6.
• FIG. 6 illustrates step c) of first penetration by the insertion finger 21: the insertion finger 21 is lowered until it passes through the first slot 8 of the rule 6, driving with it the downstream end portion 7b of the ribbon 7 which then hangs down.
• step d) of the method during which the insertion finger 21 is retracted into its retracted position, and the rule 6 is rotated by 180 degrees in a first direction. 32 around its central cross member 10, so as to rise while moving downstream the downstream end portion 7b of the ribbon 7.
• the downstream end portion 7b of the ribbon 7 is then found above the crossbar 29a, which itself is downstream of the rule 6, while the crossbar 29b is found upstream of the rule 6.
• the second transverse slot 9 of the rule 6 is in front of the insertion finger 21
• the transfer clip 20 is always lowered on the ribbon 7 to block it.
• step e) of the method during which the downstream end portion 7b is introduced into the second slot 9 of the rule 6, with the aid of the insertion finger 21 which is lowered and passes through the second slot 9.
• the transfer clip 20 always blocks the ribbon 7 upstream of the rule 6.
• step f) of the method at In the course of which the insertion finger 21 is withdrawn towards its retracted position, the rule 6 is returned by pivoting the first support means 29 in the second direction 33 of rotation around the central crosspiece 10, and simultaneously moving towards downstream the common support 31 to bring the sonotrode 22 facing the soldering anvil 23 which is again upstream of the rule 6.
• the transfer clip 20 still blocks the ribbon 7.
• the free end 7a ribbon 7 is engaged between the upstream layer 7d and the encl
• the first support means 29 provide a centering means function of the free end 7a of the ribbon 7, guiding it perfectly to engage it against the upstream section 7d of ribbon without risk of lateral overshoot and formation.
• a lateral protuberance 1 1a ( Figure 2).
• the retractable anvil support 24 is tilted to bear under the upstream cross member 29a comprising the welding anvil 23.
• step g) of the method the sonotrode 22 is lowered by activating it, and the transfer clip 20 and the telescopic guide 27 associated with it are moved upstream, away from the rule 6.
• the sonotrode 22 then ensures the welding of the downstream end section portion 7b of the ribbon 7 adjacent to the free end 7a on the upstream ply 7d which is juxtaposed between the sonotrode 22 and the welding anvil 23.
• process step h) is illustrated, during which the sonotrode 22 is withdrawn towards its retracted position, and simultaneously the transverse stretching finger 26 is moved downstream beyond the first ones. support means 29, the stretching finger 26 being engaged on an intermediate portion 7c of the ribbon
• the transfer clamp 20 remains loose, allowing unwinding of a necessary length of the ribbon 7 to achieve the adjustment loop 12 following the displacement transverse stretching finger 26. It is understood that the displacement of the transverse stretching finger 26 determines the length of the adjustment loop
• FIG. 17 illustrates a following step during which the common support 31 is moved upstream to the third position in which the insertion finger 21 is facing the second slot 9 of the rule 6.
• the transfer clamp 20 is clamped to lock the strip 7 upstream of the first support means 29.
• step i) of the method is carried out by moving the ring 5 to bring it above the rule 6 between the rule 6 and the upstream upper ply 7d of FIG. ribbon 7.
• the clamping shoe 28 is lowered to clamp a section of the upper ply 7d of ribbon 7 between the clamping shoe 28 and the ring 5, and the sonotrode 22 is lowered, keeping the transfer clamp 20 in fixed longitudinal position along the direction of progression 30.
• process step j) is illustrated, during which, while keeping the transfer clamp 20 tight, the upper ply 7d of ribbon 7 is cut by feeding the sonotrode 22 and applying the cutting anvil 25, forming an upstream end portion 7e ribbon.
• step k) of the method is carried out by lowering the insertion finger 21 so that it simultaneously passes through the ring 5 and the second slot 9. of the rule 6, simultaneously driving the upstream end portion 7e of the ribbon 7 which then passes through the ring 5 and the rule 6.
• FIG. 26 the insertion finger 21 is removed, and in FIG. 27 the insertion finger 21 and the clamping shoe 28 are moved towards their retracted position away from the ring 5, and the rocker is tilted. the retractable anvil support 24 to its support position, which anvil support 24 then pushes upstream the upstream end portion 7e of the ribbon 7 and keeps it tight under the crossbar 29a.
• step m) of the method is carried out, during which the first support means 29 are pivoted by 180 degrees around the cross member 10, in the second direction of rotation 33 illustrated by the arrows. In this movement, the first support means 29 guide the upstream end portion 7e ribbon, which straddles above the crossbar 29b which itself is upstream of the rule 6.
• the first slot 8 of the rule 6 is then found facing the insertion finger 21, which is still in its third longitudinal position.
• the clamping shoe 28 is lowered to block the strip on the rule 6 at the level of the second slot 9.
• the process step n) is carried out by lowering the insertion finger. 21 which then passes through the first slot 8 of the rule 6 and carries with it the upstream end portion 7e of the ribbon. Simultaneously, the stretching finger 26 can be brought upstream to an intermediate position in order to relax the adjustment loop 12.
• the insertion finger 21 is withdrawn upwards.
• the clamping shoe 28 is retracted.
• the main segment of strap 1 is then entirely constituted and can be removed from the device.
• FIG. 35 illustrates the essential means of a device allowing the implementation of the method illustrated above in relation to FIGS. 3 to 34.
• FIG. 3 to 34 This figure shows the essential means illustrated in Figures 3 to 34, these means are identified by the same reference numerals.
• a frame 100 which may comprise a ribbon supply, a reserve of loops, a reserve of rules, and means for holding and placing the various active elements of the device.
• the transfer clamp 20 is tightened or loosened by a jack 20a.
• the telescopic guide 27 is moved longitudinally, relative to the transfer clamp 20, by the actuation of a longitudinal cylinder 27b.
• the assembly constituted by the transfer clamp 20 and the telescopic guide 27 is moved longitudinally with respect to the frame 100 by the actuation of a longitudinal jack 34.
• the first support means 29 are urged in rotation by rotation means such that a motor 29c carried by the frame 100.
• the common support 31 is moved longitudinally by a jack 31a. On the common support 31, the assembly formed by the sonotrode 22, the clamping shoe 28 and the insertion finger 21 is moved vertically by a jack 22a.
• the insertion finger 21 is moved vertically by a jack 21a.
• the cutting anvil 25 is moved vertically by a jack 25a.
• the retractable anvil support 24 is pivoted by the actuation of a jack 24b.
• the ring 5 is held by a ring support 35 displaceable by displacement and holding means 135 able to move the ring support 35 and the ring 5 between an upstream retracted position (FIGS. 1 to 18), a raised upstream position ( Figure 19), an engagement position ( Figures 20 to 27) facing the first support means 29, and a downstream position ( Figures 28 to 34).
• the displacement and holding means 135 are able to hold the ring support 35 and the ring 5 in the fixed position of engagement with the first support means 29 to allow simultaneous engagement of the strip 7 in the ring 5 and in the rule 6 ( Figure 25) by the single finger 21.
• the stretching finger 26 is displaced by drive means 26a in longitudinal translation in the direction of progression 30.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Impression-Transfer Materials And Handling Thereof (AREA)
• Absorbent Articles And Supports Therefor (AREA)
• Purses, Travelling Bags, Baskets, Or Suitcases (AREA)

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• 2008
  • 2008-02-14 FR FR0850936A patent/FR2927509B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2009
  • 2009-02-13 WO PCT/IB2009/050606 patent/WO2009101601A2/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2009-02-13 EP EP09710832.8A patent/EP2242387B1/de active Active

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