EP4338638A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4338638A1
EP4338638A1 EP22196167.5A EP22196167A EP4338638A1 EP 4338638 A1 EP4338638 A1 EP 4338638A1 EP 22196167 A EP22196167 A EP 22196167A EP 4338638 A1 EP4338638 A1 EP 4338638A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
internal
layer
face
external
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP22196167.5A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4338638B1 (de
Inventor
Pierry Vuille
Jan LINTYMER
Benoit GIRY
Gabriel Rittiner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Comadur SA
Original Assignee
Comadur SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Comadur SA filed Critical Comadur SA
Priority to EP22196167.5A priority Critical patent/EP4338638B1/de
Priority to JP2023122184A priority patent/JP7817213B2/ja
Priority to CN202311198009.3A priority patent/CN117719269A/zh
Priority to US18/468,082 priority patent/US12520917B2/en
Publication of EP4338638A1 publication Critical patent/EP4338638A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4338638B1 publication Critical patent/EP4338638B1/de
Priority to JP2026000328A priority patent/JP2026040793A/ja
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/007—Non-metallic coatings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0076—Decoration of the case and of parts thereof, e.g. as a method of manufacture thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0069—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for working with non-mechanical means, e.g. chemical, electrochemical, metallising, vapourising; with electron beams, laser beams
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0074—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment
    • G04D3/0092—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment for components of the time-indicating mechanism, e.g. dials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of watchmaking, fashion articles, jewelry or jewelry, and more particularly relates to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion article , jewelry or jewelry and a process for manufacturing such a covering component.
  • fashion article includes clothing articles or accessories, such as belts, shoes, clothing, etc., and also includes eyewear articles, telephone articles, or any other decorative object.
  • the exterior components for watches in particular dials, flange, bezels, etc., can present, for decorative purposes, decorations made from thin layers deposited on the surface of the watch. 'a substrate.
  • the latter can be relatively complex to produce.
  • the decoration is formed by a combination of structures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer with respect to the structures are particularly complicated to respect.
  • the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a dressing component of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or jewelry.
  • the invention solves the problem of respecting the tolerances for aligning the decorations on a covering component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to structures on a face of a substrate. on which said thin layer is deposited.
  • the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the internal face of the substrate is polished.
  • the method comprises, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate, a step of etching the internal layer in which part of the internal layer is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face of the substrate being impacted.
  • the localized ablation step of the internal layer is carried out by laser beam.
  • the method comprises a step of etching the substrate carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the internal face, nor an external face of said substrate opposite to the internal face.
  • the step of etching the external layer is carried out so that part of the external layer is eliminated in order to conform said external layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face of the substrate is not impacted.
  • the step of etching the external layer is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer is visible through the substrate.
  • a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the steps of depositing the external and internal layers.
  • the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the method as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a covering component formed by the implementation of the method as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a covering component 10 as shown in the figures 2 to 5 in different examples of implementation of said method.
  • the invention can advantageously constitute a component for dressing a watch, such as a dial, a component for dressing a fashion item, or an item of jewelry.
  • fashion articles define in this text any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a piece of clothing, etc., and also includes articles of eyewear, telephone articles, such as phone cases, or any decorative object.
  • the manufacturing process comprises a first step of depositing a thin layer, called "internal layer” 12, on all or part of the surface of an internal face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown on the figure 1 .
  • transparent designates in this text a capacity of a material to allow all or part of light radiation to pass through, in particular light visible to the naked eye.
  • a transparent material can be sapphire, glass, etc.
  • the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposite an external face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the covering component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the external face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the internal face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example facing a watch movement, in the case in which the covering component 10 is a component of a watch.
  • the internal layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, alone or in alloy.
  • the internal face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the internal layer 12.
  • the method subsequently comprises a step of localized ablation of the internal layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said internal face 110 at level of the or each of the pockets 14 in order to achieve a structuring 112, as represented by the figure 2 .
  • the method can include several localized ablation steps, so as to produce several structurings 112.
  • the ablation steps can be carried out with different parameters so as to produce structurings 112 with different appearances.
  • the notion of “structuring” here defines a surface whose state, that is to say the topography, has been modified and this can consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.
  • the parameters used for implementing the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired appearance of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of those skilled in the art.
  • the part of the internal layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, said second portion of the internal face 110 being structured.
  • structuring 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the internal layer 12 with the structuring 112 of the internal face 110 is therefore guaranteed.
  • the local ablation of the internal layer 12, and consequently, the structuring 112 of the second portion of the internal face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam.
  • the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.
  • Such treatment may consist of the deposition of a layer of anti-reflective coating or of a coating consisting of a layer of metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor material, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or E-mail.
  • the method according to the invention may comprise, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, a step of etching the internal layer 12 in which a part of the internal layer 12 is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 being impacted, as represented by the Figure 3 .
  • Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the method may include a step of etching the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the internal face 110, nor an external face 111 of said substrate 11 opposite the internal face 110.
  • This characteristic makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the method according to the invention.
  • the method according to the invention may comprise a step of depositing a thin layer, called "external layer” 13, on all or part of the surface of an external face 110 of the substrate 11, followed by a step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 4 .
  • the ablation is carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the outer face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the external face 110.
  • the second portion of the external face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the internal layer 12 and the structuring 112 are visible through the pocket 15.
  • the method may comprise a step of etching the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the step of etching the inner layer 12.
  • a step engraving is shown on the figure 5 , in combination with the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13.
  • the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is eliminated in order to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face 111 of the substrate 11 being impacted.
  • Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the result of the step of etching the outer layer 13 is shown on the figure 5 , on which is also visible the internal layer 12 shaped in a predefined form at the end of the step of etching the internal layer 12, as described above in the text.
  • the internal 12 and external 13 layers can both be eliminated locally so as to generate specific decorations.
  • the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11.
  • the step of etching the external layer 13 is carried out so that a projection of the internal layer 12 on the external surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the outer layer 13, as shown in figure 5 .
  • the outer layer 13 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, can subsequently be subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the external face 111 of the substrate can be polished during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the external layer 13 and before the step of depositing the internal layer 12, in order to avoid damaging said layers.
  • the visual appearance of the decoration of the covering component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive to the extent that the contrast between the possible difference in colors of the internal layer 12 and the external layer 13, is added the contrast between the different surface states of the portions of the internal face 110 and the external face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual effect of depth between the internal 12 and external 13 layers.
  • the internal layer 12 and/or the external layer 13 can be constituted by a stack of thin layers, in a manner known per se to those skilled in the art.

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  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Optics & Photonics (AREA)
  • Plasma & Fusion (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP22196167.5A 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels Active EP4338638B1 (de)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22196167.5A EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels
JP2023122184A JP7817213B2 (ja) 2022-09-16 2023-07-27 携行型時計、ファッションアイテム又は宝飾品の外側コンポーネントを製造する方法
CN202311198009.3A CN117719269A (zh) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 制造手表、时尚物品或珠宝物品的外部部件的方法
US18/468,082 US12520917B2 (en) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 Method for manufacturing an external component of a watch, of a fashion item or of a jewellery item
JP2026000328A JP2026040793A (ja) 2022-09-16 2026-01-05 携行型時計、ファッションアイテム又は宝飾品の外側コンポーネントを製造する方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22196167.5A EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4338638A1 true EP4338638A1 (de) 2024-03-20
EP4338638B1 EP4338638B1 (de) 2025-10-29

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EP22196167.5A Active EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US12520917B2 (de)
EP (1) EP4338638B1 (de)
JP (2) JP7817213B2 (de)
CN (1) CN117719269A (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4338639B1 (de) * 2022-09-16 2025-06-04 Comadur SA Verfahren zur herstellung einer verkleidungskomponente mit einem beugungsgitter

Citations (7)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0985985B1 (de) * 1997-05-22 2003-03-26 Citizen Watch Co. Ltd. Ziffernblatt für uhren und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
US20040239750A1 (en) * 2001-08-29 2004-12-02 Bernward Kneer Method for the production of a dial and dial produced according to said method
EP1893542B1 (de) * 2005-06-14 2017-08-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Technisches oder dekoratives teil mit einer kombination aus einem transparenten material und einem auf siliciumdioxid basierenden amorphen material und herstellungsverfahren dafür
CH713871A1 (fr) * 2017-07-27 2019-01-31 Richemont Int Sa Composant horloger comprenant des éléments graphiques de divers aspects et procédé de fabrication d'un tel composant.
EP3037897B1 (de) * 2014-12-23 2020-04-29 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Herstellungsverfahren eines zifferblatts für tragbaren gerät wie eine uhr, und zifferblatt
EP3708384A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Verkleidungselement oder zifferblatt einer uhr oder eines schmuckstücks aus leitendem material
EP3709102A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Komponente eines uhrwerks oder schmuckstücks auf keramikbasis und mit einer dekorstruktur

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JPH10253773A (ja) * 1997-01-08 1998-09-25 Seiko Epson Corp 太陽電池上面を覆う被覆部材及びそれを有する電子機器、時計
JP2002148359A (ja) * 2000-11-08 2002-05-22 Citizen Watch Co Ltd 時計用表示装置及びその製造方法
JP2003130970A (ja) * 2001-10-26 2003-05-08 Citizen Watch Co Ltd 時計の照明構造
JP2003240871A (ja) * 2001-12-12 2003-08-27 Kawaguchiko Seimitsu Co Ltd 時計用文字板及びその製造方法
US7347619B2 (en) * 2005-05-14 2008-03-25 Jong-Chan Lee Watch assembly having a dial integrally formed in the watch-glass
US7919340B2 (en) 2008-06-04 2011-04-05 Semiconductor Energy Laboratory Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing light-emitting device
KR200464135Y1 (ko) * 2012-06-25 2012-12-18 박성규 장식 시계
US9434197B2 (en) * 2013-06-18 2016-09-06 Apple Inc. Laser engraved reflective surface structures
EP2881808B1 (de) * 2013-12-03 2020-08-19 Rolex Sa Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Uhrkomponente
EP3067220B1 (de) * 2015-03-13 2018-04-18 Rolex Sa Dekorationsverfahren eines uhrelements, und anhand eines solchen verfahrens hergestelltes uhrelement
KR102557891B1 (ko) * 2015-10-16 2023-07-21 삼성디스플레이 주식회사 마스크의 제조 방법
EP3951512B1 (de) * 2020-08-04 2023-03-01 Comadur S.A. Verfahren zur herstellung eines werkstücks mit mindestens einem metallisierten 3d-motiv
CN112289172B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2022-08-16 北京德弦科技有限公司 宝石的数据标识加工方法

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0985985B1 (de) * 1997-05-22 2003-03-26 Citizen Watch Co. Ltd. Ziffernblatt für uhren und verfahren zu seiner herstellung
US20040239750A1 (en) * 2001-08-29 2004-12-02 Bernward Kneer Method for the production of a dial and dial produced according to said method
EP1893542B1 (de) * 2005-06-14 2017-08-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Technisches oder dekoratives teil mit einer kombination aus einem transparenten material und einem auf siliciumdioxid basierenden amorphen material und herstellungsverfahren dafür
EP3037897B1 (de) * 2014-12-23 2020-04-29 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Herstellungsverfahren eines zifferblatts für tragbaren gerät wie eine uhr, und zifferblatt
CH713871A1 (fr) * 2017-07-27 2019-01-31 Richemont Int Sa Composant horloger comprenant des éléments graphiques de divers aspects et procédé de fabrication d'un tel composant.
EP3708384A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Verkleidungselement oder zifferblatt einer uhr oder eines schmuckstücks aus leitendem material
EP3709102A1 (de) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Komponente eines uhrwerks oder schmuckstücks auf keramikbasis und mit einer dekorstruktur

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP7817213B2 (ja) 2026-02-18
US12520917B2 (en) 2026-01-13
US20240099433A1 (en) 2024-03-28
JP2024043486A (ja) 2024-03-29
EP4338638B1 (de) 2025-10-29
JP2026040793A (ja) 2026-03-09
CN117719269A (zh) 2024-03-19

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