EP4338638B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels

Info

Publication number
EP4338638B1
EP4338638B1 EP22196167.5A EP22196167A EP4338638B1 EP 4338638 B1 EP4338638 B1 EP 4338638B1 EP 22196167 A EP22196167 A EP 22196167A EP 4338638 B1 EP4338638 B1 EP 4338638B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
face
layer
inner face
outer layer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP22196167.5A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4338638A1 (de
Inventor
Pierry Vuille
Jan LINTYMER
Benoit GIRY
Gabriel Rittiner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Comadur SA
Original Assignee
Comadur SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Comadur SA filed Critical Comadur SA
Priority to EP22196167.5A priority Critical patent/EP4338638B1/de
Priority to JP2023122184A priority patent/JP7817213B2/ja
Priority to CN202311198009.3A priority patent/CN117719269A/zh
Priority to US18/468,082 priority patent/US12520917B2/en
Publication of EP4338638A1 publication Critical patent/EP4338638A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4338638B1 publication Critical patent/EP4338638B1/de
Priority to JP2026000328A priority patent/JP2026040793A/ja
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0076—Decoration of the case and of parts thereof, e.g. as a method of manufacture thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/007—Non-metallic coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0069—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for working with non-mechanical means, e.g. chemical, electrochemical, metallising, vapourising; with electron beams, laser beams
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0074—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment
    • G04D3/0092—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment for components of the time-indicating mechanism, e.g. dials

Definitions

  • the invention falls within the field of watchmaking, fashion articles, jewelry or precious metals, and relates more particularly to a method of manufacturing a component for the casing of a watch, a fashion article, jewelry or precious metals and a method of manufacturing such a casing component.
  • fashion item includes clothing items or accessories, such as belts, shoes, clothes, etc., and also includes eyewear, telephone items, or any other decorative object.
  • watch components including dials, flanges, bezels, etc.
  • the decoration is formed by a combination of textures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer relative to the textures are especially difficult to maintain.
  • EP3709102A1 And EP3708384A1 disclose processes according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a component of the casing of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or fine jewelry.
  • the invention solves the problem of respecting the alignment tolerances of decorations on a cladding component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to the structures of a face of a substrate on which said thin layer is deposited.
  • the invention may further comprise one or more of the following features, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the inner face of the substrate is polished.
  • the process includes, before carrying out the surface treatment step of the inner layer and the inner face of the substrate, an etching step of the inner layer in which a part of the inner layer is removed so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without impacting the inner face of the substrate.
  • the localized ablation step of the inner layer is performed by laser beam.
  • the process includes a substrate etching step carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the inner face, nor an outer face of said substrate opposite to the inner face.
  • the etching step of the outer layer is carried out in such a way that part of the outer layer is removed in order to conform said outer layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the outer face of the substrate.
  • the etching step of the outer layer is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer is visible through the substrate.
  • a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the external and internal layer deposition steps.
  • the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the process as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a clothing component formed by implementing the process as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a housing component 10 as shown in the figures 2 to 5 in different examples of the implementation of said process.
  • the invention can advantageously constitute a component for the dressing of a watch, such as a dial, a component for the dressing of a fashion item, or of a jewelry or precious metal item.
  • fashion articles in this text defines any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a garment, etc., and further includes eyewear, telephone items, such as phone cases, or any decorative object.
  • the manufacturing process includes a first step of depositing a thin layer, called the "inner layer” 12, on all or part of the surface of an inner face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown in the figure 1
  • a transparent layer refers to a material's ability to allow all or part of a light spectrum to pass through, particularly light visible to the naked eye.
  • Such a transparent material could be sapphire, glass, etc.
  • the inner face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposed to an outer face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the casing component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the outer face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the inner face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example in relation to a watch movement, in the case where the casing component 10 is a component of a watch.
  • Such a deposit can be made by physical vapor deposition, chemical vapor deposition, or any other suitable method.
  • the inner layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, either alone or in alloys.
  • the inner face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the inner layer 12.
  • the process subsequently includes a localized ablation step of the inner layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said inner face 110 at the level of the pocket or pockets 14 in order to achieve a structure 112, as represented by the figure 2 .
  • the process can involve several localized ablation steps to produce multiple structures 112.
  • the ablation steps can be performed with different parameters to produce structures 112 with different appearances.
  • reference is made below to a single structure 112 for ease of reading.
  • structure here defines a surface whose state, i.e., topography, has been modified, and this may consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.
  • the parameters used for the implementation of the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired aspect of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of a person skilled in the art.
  • the portion of the inner layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, said second portion of the inner face 110 being structured.
  • structure 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the inner layer 12 with the structure 112 of the inner face 110 is therefore guaranteed.
  • the local ablation of the inner layer 12, and consequently the structuring 112 of the second portion of the inner face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam.
  • the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.
  • a surface treatment step is then carried out on the inner layer 12 and the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, in particular on the second portion of said inner face 110.
  • Such treatment may consist of the deposition of an anti-reflective coating layer or a coating made of a metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or enamel material.
  • the process according to the invention may include, prior to the surface treatment step of the inner layer 12 and the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, an etching step of the inner layer 12 in which a portion of the inner layer 12 is removed so as to conform said layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, as represented in the figure 3 .
  • Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the process may include a step of engraving the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the inner face 110, nor an outer face 111 of said substrate 11 opposite the inner face 110.
  • This feature makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the process according to the invention.
  • the process according to the invention comprises a step of depositing a thin layer, referred to as the "outer layer" 13, on all or part of the surface of an outer face 111 of the substrate 11, followed by a step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 4 .
  • the removal is carried out so that a portion of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the outer face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the outer face 110.
  • the second portion of the outer face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the inner layer 12 and the structure 112 are visible through the pocket 15.
  • the process may include an etching step of the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the etching step of the inner layer 12.
  • Such an etching step is shown in the figure 5 in combination with the localized ablation step of the outer layer 13.
  • the etching step of the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that a portion of the outer layer 13 is removed in order to conform said layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the outer face 111 of the substrate 11.
  • Such an etching step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the result of the etching step of the outer layer 13 is shown on the figure 5 , on which is also visible the internal layer 12 conformed in a predefined form at the end of the etching step of the internal layer 12, as described above in the text.
  • both the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13 can be locally removed to generate specific designs.
  • the etching step of the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11.
  • the etching step of the outer layer 13 is carried out so that a projection of the inner layer 12 onto the outer surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 5 .
  • the outer layer 13 and optionally the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, are subsequently subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the outer face 111 of the substrate can be polished in a polishing step carried out before the outer layer deposition step 13 and before the inner layer deposition step 12, in order to avoid damaging said layers.
  • the visual appearance of the decoration of the cladding component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive insofar as, in addition to the contrast between the possible color difference of the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13, there is also the contrast between the different surface finishes of the portions of the inner face 110 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the process according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual depth effect between the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13.
  • the inner layer 12 and/or the outer layer 13 can be made up of a stack of thin layers, in a way known per se to a person skilled in the art.

Landscapes

  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Optics & Photonics (AREA)
  • Plasma & Fusion (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung einer Zierkomponente (10) für eine Uhr, ein Modeaccessoire oder einen Schmuck- bzw. Juwelierartikel, umfassend die folgenden Schritte:
    - Aufbringen einer inneren Schicht (12) auf der gesamten Oberfläche oder auf einem Teil der Oberfläche einer Innenseite (110) eines Substrats (11), das aus einem transparenten Material besteht,
    - lokale Abtragung der inneren Schicht (12), wobei ein Teil der genannten inneren Schicht (12) auf einem ersten Bereich der Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11) beibehalten wird, wobei die Abtragung so durchgeführt wird, dass mindestens eine Tasche (14) entsteht, die auf einen zweiten Bereich der Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11) mündet, und wobei dieser zweite Bereich gleichzeitig strukturiert wird.
    - Oberflächenbehandlung der inneren Schicht (12) und des zweiten Bereichs der Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11),
    und dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass folgende weiteren Schritte durchgeführt werden:
    - Aufbringen einer äußeren Schicht (13) auf der gesamten Oberfläche oder auf einem Teil der Oberfläche einer Außenseite (111) des Substrats (11),
    - lokale Abtragung und/oder Gravur der äußeren Schicht (13),
    - Oberflächenbehandlung der äußeren Schicht (13).
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in einem Polierschritt, der vor dem Aufbringen der inneren Schicht (12) durchgeführt wird, die Innenseite (110) des Substrats poliert wird.
  3. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass vor der Durchführung des Oberflächenbehandlungsschritts der inneren Schicht (12) und des zweiten Bereichs der Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11) ein Gravurschritt der inneren Schicht (12) erfolgt, bei dem ein Teil der inneren Schicht (12) entfernt wird, sodass die genannte Schicht gemäß einer vorgegebenen Form ausgestaltet wird, ohne dass die Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11) beeinträchtigt wird.
  4. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt der lokalen Abtragung der inneren Schicht (12) mittels Laserstrahl durchgeführt wird.
  5. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass ein Gravurschritt des Substrats (11) durchgeführt wird, um ein Motiv innerhalb der Dicke des genannten Substrats (11) zu erzeugen, ohne die Innenseite (110) und die der Innenseite (110) gegenüberliegende Außenseite (111) des genannten Substrats (11) zu beeinträchtigen.
  6. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Schritt der lokalen Abtragung der äußeren Schicht (13) so durchgeführt wird, dass:
    - ein Teil der äußeren Schicht (13) auf einem ersten Bereich der Außenseite (111) des Substrats (11) erhalten bleibt,
    - mindestens eine Tasche (15) gebildet wird, die auf einen zweiten Bereich der Außenseite (111) des Substrats (11) mündet, wobei sich der genannte zweite Bereich zumindest gegenüber dem zweiten Bereich der Innenseite (110) des Substrats (11) erstreckt, und
    - den genannten zweiten Bereich der Außenseite (111) des Substrats (11) zu strukturieren.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Gravurschritt der äußeren Schicht (13) so durchgeführt wird, dass ein Teil der äußeren Schicht (13) entfernt wird, um die genannte äußere Schicht (13) gemäß einer vorgegebenen Form auszugestalten, ohne dass die Außenseite (111) des Substrats (11) beeinträchtigt wird.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Gravurschritt der äußeren Schicht (13) vorteilhaft so durchgeführt wird, dass die innere Schicht (12) durch das Substrat (11) hindurch sichtbar ist.
  9. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass vor den Schritten des Aufbringens der äußeren Schicht (13) und der inneren Schicht (12) ein Polierschritt durchgeführt wird, bei dem die Außenseite (111) des Substrats poliert wird.
  10. Uhrzifferblatt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es durch die Durchführung des Verfahrens nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9 gebildet ist.
  11. Modeartikel, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass er eine Zierkomponente umfasst, die durch die Durchführung des Verfahrens nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9 gebildet ist.
EP22196167.5A 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels Active EP4338638B1 (de)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22196167.5A EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels
JP2023122184A JP7817213B2 (ja) 2022-09-16 2023-07-27 携行型時計、ファッションアイテム又は宝飾品の外側コンポーネントを製造する方法
CN202311198009.3A CN117719269A (zh) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 制造手表、时尚物品或珠宝物品的外部部件的方法
US18/468,082 US12520917B2 (en) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 Method for manufacturing an external component of a watch, of a fashion item or of a jewellery item
JP2026000328A JP2026040793A (ja) 2022-09-16 2026-01-05 携行型時計、ファッションアイテム又は宝飾品の外側コンポーネントを製造する方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22196167.5A EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4338638A1 EP4338638A1 (de) 2024-03-20
EP4338638B1 true EP4338638B1 (de) 2025-10-29

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP22196167.5A Active EP4338638B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Verfahren zur herstellung eines verkleidungsbauteils einer uhr, eines modeartikels oder eines schmuck- oder schmuckartikels

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US12520917B2 (de)
EP (1) EP4338638B1 (de)
JP (2) JP7817213B2 (de)
CN (1) CN117719269A (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4338639B1 (de) * 2022-09-16 2025-06-04 Comadur SA Verfahren zur herstellung einer verkleidungskomponente mit einem beugungsgitter

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP7817213B2 (ja) 2026-02-18
US12520917B2 (en) 2026-01-13
US20240099433A1 (en) 2024-03-28
JP2024043486A (ja) 2024-03-29
EP4338638A1 (de) 2024-03-20
JP2026040793A (ja) 2026-03-09
CN117719269A (zh) 2024-03-19

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